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��� (yoke)- ����������� � ������� ������� �����.. | �����, ����, ����� | ��������� Canoe Yoke & Yoke Pads Make Portage Of Your Canoe Simple & Easy. Pads Clamp On To Your Yoke In Minutes. Shop Now. Free Shipping On Orders $ Or Over. Yokes provide strength and rigidity at the canoe's mid-point. They also make it easier to portage. This yoke measures 13/16" (thickness) x /4" (ends). Oct 15, �� That design. It was a wood hanger for the seat an yoke that had 2 slots for the yoke. A slot for carrying, in front of the edge of the canted seat, right up under the rail, and the same sized slot under the seat for stowing the yoke while paddling. My Latest solo has a neet slider seat yoke combo. I like it enough to make 2 for my other solos.
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I purchased the cane and spline from Rockler because they are located closer, even though they were more than twice as expensive as Woodcraft. To start off, I created a paper template to represent the location of the spline. I then transferred the paper template to a piece of hardboard and cut it out using a saber saw. From the paper template I created a hardboard template to guide the router. Before installing the cane, the reed spline and cane were soaked in warm water for 20 minutes.

That complete, I used a chip carving knife to cut the outside edge of the cane, just inside the groove. This was the most time consuming part of the caning process.

It was straightforward, but be careful not to slip and cut yourself! Mixing the glue in a sandwich bag and then clipping off a corner worked great. Remember, too much glue is bad!

I read that it will make a real mess and believe it. Next was the simple task of installing the reed. First, I mitered the spline at one end using a sharp chisel. Then using my dead-blow hammer I installed the reed. When I reached the starting miter, I marked a complementary miter on the spline with my chisel and then cut the miter using my cane tapping block as backing for the cut.

To mount the seats to the gunwale I chose to duplicate the standoffs in cedar because I had it on hand and it is light weight. The seats were brush finished with a marine varnish and installed using 10 truss head stainless steel machine screws. After testing the yoke with and without padding I can say that it is basically window dressing.

It looks great but is uncomfortable, with or without added padding. While necessary to accommodate the center seat, the yoke is shifted off the balance point of the boat makes carrying more difficult.

Regardless, it was more comfortable to rest the center seat on the top of my backpack or my head than to use the yoke so I decided to remove it.

I added a Tump Line in place of the yoke. Your email address will not be published. Thanks N. Look closely and you will notice that the Voyageur pad is probably a carved block of foam and not a sheet. Look at the installation instructions and I think you will see this pad is made to mount on a flat yoke, not a contoured one. Still looking?

Have you asked here on the boards? NC trip has been delayed, maybe canceled. Who knows? Certainly not I said the toad �. The clamps grip the gunwales very well and I would recommend them. The Hidden River design might be better than the one that I have. The slippage is why I set mine up the way I did. The downside to mine is what you mentioned - all of the gear has to come out of the boat when you portage or the balance point is off. I'm all done using gunwale clamps!!

I have a generic-brand yoke with clamps that appear to be identical to those on the Hidden River yoke, and they just won't stay put on vinyl gunwales. It's also quite inconvient to get them properly located and centered side-to-side while tightening the clamps. Perhaps this is my problem, but I have zero tolerance for fiddling around with time-consuming, inconvenient processes, especially if the thing can't be relied upon once it's attached slipping on vinyl gunwales if all it takes is a little bit tinkering time to make the process quick, simple, and reliable.

That's why I'm leaning toward something like the design illustrated by c2g. As far as re-balancing a boat on while portaging, I hear that a line connecting the bow and stern, held just below waist level with one hand, works really well with minimal effort. I haven't had to try that yet, but it seems like a good idea. Also, if it ever turned out to be necessary, it would be pretty simple to lengthen c2g's set-up to accomodate a couple of extra mounting positions.

I just looked at the photos of NT's set-up, and THAT's a clamp that would be a lot easier to work with than any of the one-size-fits-all clamps I've seen. There's no sliding width adjustment, so you can lock it down without needing three hands to keep the clamp from slipping sideways in the process.

Of course, once again, it's made for a specific boat, not any old boat for those who might think that's a problem. The yoke has "ears" screwed and glued to the ends to keep the yoke from slipping off when the hull flexes. It does not slip and has never let me down, even on the mile and a half Hells Gate Portage.

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