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If your joint required you to "weld" it together so that you could take out the cable ties especially the locking part , make sure to sand the area roughly before you start to apply the tape.
Epoxy generally does not stick to itself very well. Remember to wet out the surface once again if you've had to wait for the first coat to dry. If the joint is all ready and set, cut a length of fiberglass tape to fit the joint.
You can leave about a quarter inch of extra on each side if you want, but for inside joints especially it's best to cut it exactly. Roughly pat down the tape to the wet epoxy surface, and then starting at one end with a fresh batch of unthickened epoxy, brush on epoxy until the tape becomes relatively clear.
You may need to finesse the bubbles out with a finger, but generally fiberglass tape is pretty easy to get right. Use a plastic scraper to help you get out any bubbles and to spread the epoxy along evenly. Generally I'll wet out around a 1 foot section with a brush first, and then get another foot out of it using the plastic scraper.
You just want the fiberglass tape to be impregnated in epoxy, not necessarily coated. A thin layer of epoxy is flexible, and the fiberglass gives it the tensile strength it needs, whereas a thick layer of epoxy is more likely to crack. If you're going around curves, you may need to "kerf" the tape around the edge by making a few 1' cuts into the tape along the inside and outside radius of the curve.
The tape stretches pretty well though, and try pulling on the ends of the tape before you make any cuts, which decrease the strength of the joint.
Follow the epoxy's instructions on drying time and curing generally hours to touch. Try to keep dust and insects off of it in the meantime. If you're okay with the slightly raised and bumpy texture of the fiberglass tape, you can cover the seam in a polypropylene drop cloth, which doesn't stick to the epoxy and will create a nice and smooth surface.
If you want it to be smoother, then suit up in a jumper or long sleeves and pants with legs and arms taped and sand it out. Fiberglass gets everywhere, so to avoid itching for weeks, do everything you can to keep dust from flying Stitch And Glue Boat Plans Free Apk around. If your joint needs to be super strong, then do a few more seams of tape overlapping the original seam. I made a few modifications to the original plans. For one, Instead of having stringers and screws fastening each piece of plywood, I use the stitch-and-glue method outlined here.
I also rotated the original cockpit dimensions so that the rounded end was towards the stern. Additionally, I placed deckplates in the cockpit for access to the five watertight compartments. In the two foreward compartments I added two non-watertight bulkheads at the fore end of the daggerboard box to stop any cargo in those compartments from sliding around too much.
I also added an additional support beam at the top of the stern between the rear bulkhead and transom. I coated the entire hull, inside and out, in epoxy for longevity. In terms of the rigging, I kept the general rig dimensions, but added outhaul, downhaul, and traveller lines feeding into clam cleats at the cockpit. The spars are 1. I made the sail with a sail-making neighbor of mine, and it is based of off the given dimensions with the shape "eyeballed".
The The mainsheet goes through a swiveling fairlead and cam cleat located directly aft the daggerboard, with an accompanying block directly above on the boom. I may try and make a higher performance sloop rig; I'm not sure the lateen rig does it justice. On deck, I added a cleat and set of chocks at the bow and an additional cleat as a handle on the daggerboard. I put an adjustable hiking strap in the center of the cockpit at the floor, which certainly sees use.
The hull's nearly flat-bottomed design means that in the water, the Mini-Cup likes to be sailed flat, and tends to turn into the wind with even small angles of heel. Awesome project and great modifications to accommodate stitch and glue construction for novices such as myself! Just curious as to how you joined the hull bottom to form the V. Can't tell if you used stringers in the bow If you didn't, then did you just use zip ties to join the pieces? Also, would you recommend completing this step earlier than the PDF suggests?
Reply 6 years ago on Introduction. I used a ratchet strap to bring the bow up before I zip-tied it and removed the strap. There are no stringers anywhere in the boat. Even easier than epoxy is to use PL Premium construction adhesive. It comes out of a caulk gun and allows you to spread it like peanut butter. Just make sure you use gloves. You can make fillets just like with epoxy.
I built a Puddle Duck Racer this way. The PL Premium is a polyurethane adhesive that sticks to almost everything, wood, metal, etc. If you've ever wanted to build your own boat, wood, aluminum, or stitch-and-glue, you've come to the right place. Hi, I'm Jeff Spira. I've been designing and building boats since my teenage years, in the late s. There are few things I enjoy more than designing, building and using boats. Have a look through my designs and I'm sure you'll come across a few that you would love to have.
Harris owns Chesapeake Light Craft, the Annapolis-based purveyor of wooden boat kits and plans. His long tenure at CLC was preceded by a passion for boatbuilding and small craft that stretches back to earliest childhood. His first successful design was launched at age More paddling, rowing, and sailing craft followed quickly, though he paused to get a degree in music�his second passion.
After college he was determined to make a career as a boatbuilder and designer in the esoteric world of wooden boats. His work as a designer and builder ranges from dinghies to large multihulls and from kayaks to powerboats.
He lives on the shores of Chesapeake Bay near Annapolis with his wife, daughter, and an always-changing fleet of curious small boats.
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