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All other ropes are tied to a heavy-duty split ring at the bow. Another short piece of rope is tied to the split ring and to a carabiner that clips to the bow eye. This short piece of rope takes up all of the tension for the final adjustments and any field adjustments.
Hunter's Specialties blind material is attached to the front of the blind, but is only zip-tied to the angled top section. The supports must lay flat without tearing the material. Some excess material drapes over the side of the boat. Military camouflage netting is attached over the other material using zip ties. Brown or camouflage waterproof tarp material is attached to the rear frames using zip ties to secure only the top sections above the degree curves.
Military camouflage netting is zip-tied over the tarp. Hunter's Specialties blind material can be used in lieu of the tarp, but will not protect hunters from rain. Hogland's boat has a fishing seat in the stern and one in the bow, plus a live well on one side where one or two hunters can sit. A notch cut into the camouflage fabric allows the retriever to enter and exit from a casting platform that he had previously built into the stern of the boat. The blind material extends partially around the outboard motor, but Hogland tosses a separate, loose piece of camouflage fabric over it for total concealment.
The exception was one area on the back where my month-old Lab decided to jump from the bank back into the boat through the netting and I had to patch the hole. Let's just say, he had a very good hunt! See More Popular Videos. Give a Gift Subscriber Services. See All Special Interest Magazines.
All Wildfowl subscribers now have digital access to their magazine content. This means you have the option to read your magazine on most popular phones and tablets. To get started, click the link below to visit mymagnow. Get Digital Access. He decided the best solution for a dual use watercraft was in building a removable blind that fit on top of his johnboat. The blind had to be light enough in weight to add or remove easily. It also had to be watertight and provide protection from the elements.
When the blind is removed, it is hung from rafters in the garage. The overhead storage makes it easy to lower the blind or raise it. It takes only one man to do the job of lowering and attaching the blind in approximately 20 minutes. The complete conversion, including the addition of artificial grass and natural bull brushes, takes approximately one hour.
The blind itself is a one-piece fiberglass top from a conversion van, which was discovered in a junkyard. The top was gutted of all the carpet, lights, cabinets, wiring and other non-necessities.
The plywood base mates perfectly with the top of the boat. The shell is completely fiber-glassed and is waterproof. The top was cut out, leaving an opening for shooting and comfort. This boat will hunt four people. But it is really the perfect size for two or three hunters and a dog. In the back of the blind, I made a dog door for my Lab, Mocha.
The door is also fiber-glassed. The blind is equipped with built-in wrap-around shelves along the lower perimeter and easily seats two or three hunters with room to spare. There is storage room for approximately 50 to 60 standard sized decoys beneath the front of the shell under the driver's position. Two Mr. Heater heaters are used to keep hunters warm. The only place where water can enter is through the shooting port. The boat has a removable rear swivel seat. The steering wheel is located beside the forward attached swivel seat, flat against the port side.
The throttle is located against the starboard side. When in the hunting position, the seats are swiveled to face the side of the boat toward the decoys. A one-piece top encloses the boat completely keeping out the weather. Dapson said he and his hunting partners have slept in the boat many times and been very comfortable in all weather conditions. The boat is extremely safe. After duck season is ended, Dapson simply backs his boat into his garage, attaches the blind to a hoist and lifts it up to the rafters for storage until the next hunting season.
Miller's Hide-A-Way Blind Todd Miller of Rocky Point, North Carolina, designed and built a boat blind which folds down on top of his aluminum johnboat's gunwales rather than to the inside or outside as many blinds do. It has bases with pivot points that attach to the supports and the gunwales to let the supports fold forward to allow the conduit blind frame to lay flat on top of the gunwales, completely out of the way. The frame is held in the erect position by a simple system of coated wire cables and snap hooks.
Turnbuckles are used to tighten or loosen the cable stays for adjusting the blind and keeping the tension in the framework as the cables stretch. Miller's Hide-A-Way Blind is built on a 17 feet long, 54 inches wide Phatbuoyz aluminum boat, which he has customized to run with a 25 horsepower Prodrive shallow drive mud motor.
The main type of hunting he does is for puddle ducks and ring-necked ducks in shallow water areas such as beaver ponds and swamps. But he also uses his boat blind on coastal tidal rivers.
Such shallow-water use makes the overall weight of the boat and blind a major concern. A removable gun box was built into the boat in the event the boat became stuck and heavy gear had to be off-loaded to lighten the boat and free it.
The Bimini top bases were mounted to the longer top frame sections and support poles boat using screws. Next, Miller built two crossbars from conduit sections, which were cut to match the width of the boat between the two top frame sections. The conduit ends were ground to fit into pipe elbows and then driven into the elbows.
The other ends of the elbows were driven onto the ends of the top frame sections to forming a rectangle. The crossbars were bent down into a modified "U" shape to keep them low enough for easy step-over access when the blind is folded down. Next, the top blind frame conduit sections were attached to the folding support poles by screwing them onto the Bimini top brackets. With the blind assembly in the collapsed position, the crossbars and all supports were adjusted so they would be out of the way, folding neatly into position and securely open once the blind was installed.
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Measure the inside length and width of your boat. Use a measuring tape to find the width of the inside of your boat near the motor, which is usually the widest point. Find the spot on your boat where the body just starts to get narrower.
Measure the length from the back of your boat just in front of the motor to the spot where it narrows. Cut 2 pieces of PVC pipe that match the inside length of the boat.
After you find the length, transfer the measurements onto a piece of PVC pipe with a 2 in 5. Use a hacksaw to cut through the pipe at the mark you made, making sure the cut is as straight as possible.
The employees may be able to cut your length of pipe to size if you need them to. Split each length of PVC into 3 equal pieces. Take the measurement you found for the length and divide it by 3 to find how long each section should be. Mark the new measurements on your PVC pipes and cut through them with a hacksaw. Cutting your side pieces into smaller lengths lets you add side supports to your frame using T-connections so you blind is more sturdy.
If you want, you can cut the 3 pieces Pontoon Boat Blind Plans Guitar to size right away rather than cutting out the long pieces first. Glue the pieces back together using T-connections. Fit 2 sections of pipe into the side holes on a PVC T-connection so the top hole points up. Add another T-connection to the end so the top hole points up, and put the third section in the side hole so you have a long horizontal pipe.
Once everything fits, apply PVC cement around the end of each pipe section and push it back into the T-connection to secure it.
Repeat the process with the other sections of pipe. A T-connection has 2 holes on the side and 1 on the top so you can join multiple pipes together. Attach the PVC pieces to the sides of your boat with conduit clamps. Get conduit clamps that match the size of your pipes to ensure a tight fit against your boat.
Hold the length of pipe against the inside of your boat about 6 inches 15 cm from the top edge. Measure every 2 feet 61 cm along the length of pipe and make marks on your boat so you know where to place the clamps. Add 2 ft 61 cm vertical pipes into the T-connections. Push the end of each pipe into the top holes of the T-connections so they stand up vertically against the walls of your boat. Mark each pipe so you know how far to push it in before applying PVC cement to the ends.
Put horizontal PVC supports between the tops of the vertical pipes. Fit 4-way pipe connections on top of the vertical pipes so 2 holes run along the length of the boat and 1 hole points toward the opposite side. Use the measurement you took for the inside width of your boat to cut 3 sections of pipe to fit between each side of the frame.
Push the ends of each pipe into the 4-way connections on top of the vertical supports so they span the width of your boat. If you ever want to take your frame apart, remove the horizontal connections to fold the pipes into your boat. Install a top rail to the frame. The top rail uses the same size pieces as the bottom pieces of your frame. Take your length measurement from earlier and cut out 6 new sections of PVC pipe with your hacksaw to fit between the 4-way connections.
Push the new pipe sections into the 4-way connections so they span the length of the boat and support your frame.
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