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Plastic model kits - Model Ship World�

If you are a commercial dealer or supplier of any hobby related products, and want to announce a new product or promotion, contact the admin forim info about becoming a sponsor of the site. No commercial advertising is allowed without the buuilding from MSW site administrators. If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild NRG is just right for you.

We provide support moel our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions.

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When cutting curves, support the plastic on a V-shaped plywood bench peg, clamped or screwed to the workbench. Once it is secure, position the cut line close to the peg, and turn the plastic as you cut. Cut off any excess plastic close to the edge of the component, and finish it by rubbing the component carefully on abrasive paper glued to a board. Pare this away once it has been separated. Fine gaps can be filled by brushing matt enamel paint into them.

When the paint has set hard, rub it down with wet-and-dry paper for a smooth finish. For larger gaps, we recommend using a special epoxy paste for filling plastic, typically available ready-to-use in two parts for mixing. Only a very small amount of filler is required � it also shrinks very little, so work the filler as close as possible to your required shape. Use a spatula of some kind to mould and press the filler into the joints as much as possible � an old knife blade works well.

Dampen the tip of a finger and wipe along and across the joints lightly to smooth it flush. Leave the filler to harden overnight, then sand it lightly with very fine abrasive paper. Epoxy paste can also be used filling gaps or dents, or for building up sections of your scale model. Mould it as close as possible to your desired shape, and smooth it with water to achieve the best finish. Looking for a more malleable filler? Liquid plastic might be the answer!

Cut scraps into small pieces and drop them into a screw-top jar. Add solvent, replace the lid, and leave to dissolve overnight. A thicker consistency is ideal for gap filling, a medium one for detailing, and a thin one when coating tissue paper for making clothing for model figures. Pro tip : When filling dents, drill shallow holes in the depression from different angles to anchor the filling.

Overfill it very slightly, leave it to harden, and sand flush. All the rigid plastics mentioned so far, with the exception of polyethylene, can be smoothed with fine needle files and suitable abrasives.

Flash the thin film of plastic which results from badly fitting moulds can be removed in this way or with a sharp knife. Plastic tends to clog fine files, but can be cleaned easily with a soft wire brush. Most plastics can also be trimmed with a finely set, sharp plane. For any larger components or thick acrylic sheet use a bench-mounted disc sander for shaping and smoothing � use light pressure to avoid overheating!

To remove flash, cut it away with a sharp knife, working as close to the edge as possible. Smooth the edge with a needle file or abrasive paper. Keen to bend your plastic like Beckham? Football may not teach you how to build plastic models, but we sure can! You can bend plastic strip or rod by pulling it under a rounded tool held on a flat surface, or by rolling a dowel across the tip of the strip or rod held on a piece of cardboard.

The greater the pressure the greater the curve. Very thin plastic sheet can be curled around a paint brush handle. If you want a more accurate method, apply a drop of liquid cement to the area you want to bend.

Leave it to soften for a few minutes, then bend gently to avoid stretching. Water and heat can also be used to bend plastic. For this method, tape your component over a former and plunge it into very hot water. Leave it to soften, then cool in cold water while still attached to the former.

While some models benefit from a dull, or weathered look, others were made to shine! To polish polystyrene, acrylobutyl styrene, or acrylic, use liquid metal polish on a cotton ball and lightly rub the surface. Change the cotton ball regularly and do not let it dry. Finally, polish the surface to a high-gloss finish with a clean cotton ball. For simpler scratches, use a polishing wheel attached to a miniature power drill and a polishing compound.

This gives highlights and shadows to what otherwise would be a mono-tone color scheme. I put the photo etch parts on ships after the construction is finished, unless it's going to be impossible to place a part after the ship is constructed. The picture below is well into the construction. I'm assembling the smaller anti-aircraft weapons. These consist of 40 mm, 37 mm and quad mm's. The assemblies can be mini-kits in themselves so be sure your follow the instructions carefully.

If you are using brushes to paint the Z it would be better to paint the sub-assemblies before gluing them on the ship. Paint can make or break your model.

Most people can ignore a few construction errors if the model has a good finish. If you're a beginner and using brushes to paint try to buy good brushes and keep them clean. If you take care of your brushes they will serve you well for many years.

I use acrylic paints when possible Tamiya or Testors as these are non-toxic and clean up with water. I use a lot of weathering techniques such as pre-shading. The following sequence is how I paint my ships using a Badger airbrush. This is the model with the two base colors painted on XF and XF The weapons and mast will be painted separately and added later. The rest of the ship, including the superstructure, is painted XF Sea Blue. To do the highlight I switched to an enamel base paint made by White Ensign Models.

White Ensign puts out a line of paints designed for ships. The color I used for the light gray is Hellgrau 50 Light gray I lightly spray the Hellgrau 50 over the dark base colors allowing them to show through to create variation in an otherwise mono-tone color.

After masking the upper hull to protect the highlighted upper hull, I used Xtracolor enamel red to paint the lower hull.

Xtracolor was not used because I prefer it. I used it because it was there and I didn't have to go out and buy another bottle of paint. Kreiegsmarine warhips had a black stripe painted where the top hull color met the hull red color. This was usually at the waterline of the ship. The water around the ship in harbor was usually fouled with oil and stained the light gray finish.

The black stripe was painted to hide the stains. I used a Sharpie fine point pen to replicate the stripe, carefully drawing the line between the red hull and the gray upper hull. I used Alclad to paint the torpedo tubes although it would be fine if you painted them gray like the rest of the hull.

I painted them metallic to draw the eye to the ship. Almost all warships had some portion of the ship that was decked in wood. This was usually teak. The purpose of the decking was to give sure footing to the areas most travelled by the crew. The Z was no exception in that the bridge decking was teak. I masked off the surrounding areas with tape making sure the areas I wanted to paint teak remained unmasked and then airbrushed White Ensign Models deck teak color.

After letting this dry for several hours I sprayed the painted area with Testor's acrylic flat coat. After the acrylic flat coat has dried for several hours the next step is to use a mixture of turpentine, and black and raw sienna oil paints. The liquid should take on a chocolate color. Apply this to the teak deck. Applying this mixture gives variation to the teak color and brings out the planking detail.

Photo etch is usually a product you buy in addition to the model to detail it even further. It is not necessary to add photo etch to your ship model. If you are a beginner at ship modeling it would be best to wait until you have a few kits built and your skills sharpened before tackling photo etch. Photo etch is usually for modeling the deck railings which in most cases is not represented in the basic model. Some parts of the base kit are molded heavily such as radars.

Photo etch, because of its delicate nature, represents these parts well. The Z came with basic set of photo etch. Gator glue and super glue, the non-gel type, are musts when working with photo etch. Gator Glue is a white glue which is easy to work with and dries clear.

Use an exacto knife with a new blade to cut the photo etch parts off their surrounding metal. I use a flat rock base to place the part on and then use the blade to cut if off. The photo above shows the two pieces that made up the photo etch radar for the Z It is made up of the screen and the frame for the screen. These have to be glued together and then glued on to the mast support on the bridge.

The length of brass rod you see on the stone is what is used for an applicator. It gives me control over the super glue and allows me to place small amounts of the glue on tiny parts. Photo etch can provide a lot of delicate detail that plastic molding cannot. Just a few pieces can improve your model a great deal. Safety railings that run along the edge of the deck and superstructure are almost never supplied with a model kit.

When they are supplied in plastic they are usually out of scale and poorly done.

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