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The boat is a #jonboattobassboat (ish) style heavily modified and detailed build.� I will show you images of the boat as I got it, as well as progress images in the early stages of the build before I started my YouTube channel. Ive Got Boats To Build by Jerry Jeff Walker. Here are the most popular versions Chords. Chords and tabs aggregator - myboat035 boatplans I've Got Boats To Build. assistir video. ver mais tarde.� C C/B F It'll be a fair curve from a noble plan Dm G Let the chips fall where they will cause. C G Am F C G C I've got boats to build C F Shores distant shores C There's where F I'm headed for G Am Got the stars to guide my way Bb G sail into the light of day. F G I'm gonna build me a boat with these two hands. C C/B F It'll be a fair curve from a noble plan Dm G let the chips fall where they will cause. C G Am F C G C I've got boats to build. enviado por: anonimo. Corrigida por: sem correcoes.

All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use. By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy , and to the use of cookies as described therein. Forgot Password? Mark Forums Read. Vendor Directory. Prowler boat build. Thread Tools. I had some materials leftover from another project and decided to get started on an RC boat build. Never been into the world of boating before. So here is what I have so far.

A desire to build an RC Boat from a pile of wood 2. I know this is not all inclusive of the electronics needed, just don't have the UBEC yet 6. I glued the taped and cutout templates onto their respective pieces of wood. Cut the pieces out a little proud of the lines.

Sanded the edges down to the lines. The frame fits together very nicely. The long pieces of door skin for the decking need a little touch-up sanding to get them to fit together. I was toying with the idea of scaling the model down to a " due to my available motor only being 22 cc. I decided to leave it as is due to having no knowledge of how to resize in a PDF. If this proves to be too under powered I will look for a larger weedeater motor.

In the future I may go to a liquid cooled marine engine but not for now. So now the questions start. Are there any inherent issues with this type of setup. Have also seen single rudder directly behind the strut and like that too. I am not a huge fan of the looks of having the rudder offset on the transom. I am currently unsure on how to run the stuffing tube but will research this further.

As stated above I need to keep researching things as I go, but just some primary questions to continue going. View Public Profile. Send a private message to mwohlenhaus.

Find More Posts by mwohlenhaus. View iTrader Profile. My Feedback: 1. Received 1 Like on 1 Post. Reading through the Zipp manual for a Easy V may help your build and answer a few of your questions, will also give you a chronological build order.

Find More Posts by mistycreekboats. Definitely use epoxy. I used a Zippkits stinger drive on mine. I would not use dual rudders or rudder behind the prop. There is a small text file and build pics included with the plans. I hope you have reviewed them. Those are my plans, I designed the boat. Have fun and please post pics of the build. We all love pics. Send a private message to dwr9. Find More Posts by dwr9. I must thank you Doug for allowing new comers that want to give building a boat a try without alot of money invested initially.

I did review the pics and the written instructions. If setup properly will the smaller motor have the power to get it on plane? I am not looking for racing, just cruising. Hydro Junkie. Received 52 Likes on 50 Posts. It should, if you build it light. The issue will be the RPM capabilities of the engine. Weedeater engines are not made to run fast so getting sufficient power could be an issue One thing I would warn you about is the problems involved with using doorskin in a boat.

Doorskin is inherently brittle. Since it isn't made to handle a load, it can and will crack or splinter. It is also very porous so it will take some serious work to seal it against water. If it's not sealed, it will absorb water, adding weight and ruining the wood. Send a private message to Hydro Junkie.

Find More Posts by Hydro Junkie. I've built all my boats using doorskins with no problem. You do have to seal the boat well inside and out with epoxy. I would guess that motor would get you to the high 30's to low 40's with the right setup. Attached Thumbnails. So far I have the bottom skin glued to the frame. Working on gluing the strips between the frame to help hold sides on currently. Am soaking the front pieces in water overnight to soften them up to make the bend.

Am planning on ordering the Zippkits basic hardware combo for mono hulls, and the stub shaft combo for running hardware. Will need to figure out what prop to use at some point as well. One question that is coming to light as I get further into the project is that of fuel tank placement. I see several fuel tanks towards the front of the hull. Do you figure motor placement based on full tank of fuel or average it out at half full?

Another question regarding motor placement and stuffing tube; Is the ideal method of running stuffing tube to bend by the motor and then run parallel to the hull out the back, or make an even more gradual bend so it becomes parallel right before exiting transom?

In looking at the easy vee instructions it appears that it is parallel for the majority of the run with the bend being right away but not sure if I am seeing that correctly, or if it is a gradual bend.

All in all everything is going well albeit a bit slow due to limited time to work on it. Send a private message to crapshooter. Find More Posts by crapshooter. Originally Posted by crapshooter. Yup, a gradual bend in the stuffing tube is best and I just epoxy them in. I use thin wall tubing and have never worn one out. Remember when putting the strips in because of the angle between the bottom and sides they must project beyond the edge of the bottom so you can sand them back flush with the sides.

See the attached pictures. Last edited by dwr9; at PM. I just bent the pieces around the front of the hull and have them clamped and drying. Will glue them on when dry, but didn't think of the slits in it. Glue and finish with a thin bead of epoxy along the edge.

Any recommendations on a prop? So far using the weed trimmer motor 22cc and stock. Not a lot of power but it is what i have for now. I also noticed that with the motor I have the fan shrouding is not symmetrical. The right side is bigger around than the left as viewed from the PTO side. If I mount the motor as low as it can go in the chassis it will hit the rail on the right side. Is it an acceptable practice to offset the motor a bit in an effort to not have to raise it up in the hull.

It will still need to come up a bit as well, but not as much as clearing the rail would take. I will get some photos of what I am talking about if it is unclear. If I interpret your post correctly you need to offset the motor to the left side of the boat. How much of of the stringer would you have to cut away to keep the motor centered? Here's a few more pics of progress so far.

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