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Wait for the surface to no longer be tacky before doing additional work on the hull. Prepare and install the fiberglass cloth. Cut fiberglass cloth to the shape needed. Apply a second coat of resin. This coat is called the bond coat. If you have waited for a while, consider sanding the hull again.

Working from one end of the hull to the other, apply the bond coat over the fiberglass cloth. Remove the material you have used to attach the fiberglass cloth to the boat before the bond coat sets up completely. Apply another coat of resin.

This coat is known as the fill coat. Wait for the previous coat to set up hard. If you have waited a significant period of time, clean and sand the hull again. Apply a final coat of resin. The finish coat should be smooth and even, but should also be thick enough to allow you to sand the hull evenly without damaging the cloth.

Sand the hull. Give the final coat enough time to dry, preferably overnight. Use lower grit paper at first and finish with a higher grit paper. Apply a protective agent.

This can be paint or another boat hull finish. Apply the protective agent according to the package directions. I have accidentally drilled a 3mm hole where the boat goes on the skidbar; how can I repair it? Clean the hole, rough up around hole, and fill with dowel rod sand. Go over with a fiberglass mat and resin. Yes No. Not Helpful 4 Helpful 6.

Probably not enough hardener, or the hardener was mixed in unevenly and you had some portion of the resin mix that has no hardener in it. You might have to grind it off and start again or get it out using solvent. Another reason might be temperature. Not Helpful 1 Helpful 4.

Cut out the inside wall, remove wood, clean out debris, cut new wood to size, install fiberglass mat, and resin several coats. Not Helpful 13 Helpful 7. When sanding, you want to sand to the bottom of the damaged area and then taper up your sanding less and less as you move away from it.

If you angle your sanding down towards the cracks, it will make your repair stronger and will allow you to make a smoother patch. Clean the surface with acetone.

After the surface is sanded down, you need to get everything off the surface so that the epoxy and fiberglass patch will stick. Use a rag or paper towel soaked in acetone to wipe down the entire area, including all of the internal edges of the fiberglass that you opened up. Clean 1 to 2 inches 2. Be careful when using acetone. It is highly flammable, so don't use it around an open flame. It can also be purchased at pharmacies and big box stores in the nail care section, as it's commonly used for removing nail polish.

Fill any holes with resin combined with filler. In order to create a base for your sheets of fiberglass to sit on, you need to fill any large holes or cracks with a base of epoxy. Mix your epoxy resin, hardener, and filler at the ratio suggested on the packaging. For filling gaps, the mix will have enough filler to create a product that is the consistency of peanut butter. How much epoxy you mix depends on the size of the crack you are filling. It's fine to make a guess and then if you don't mix enough, you can always make more while the first batch is setting.

These supplies are typically available from online retailers, marine supply stores, and specialty hardware stores. Tear out several pieces of fiberglass sheeting. Rip out the pieces of fiberglass sheeting in the shape of the area you are covering. Don't cut the pieces out with scissors. Ripping them will make a more subtle edge on the patch, which will make it easier to create a smooth transition. Ripping it can create glass dust that could be inhaled if you don't have on personal protective equipment.

Fiberglass sheeting is available from online suppliers and at many large home improvement stores. Use epoxy to attach the sheets of fiberglass. Mix a batch of epoxy and hardener. Brush on a layer over the entire area that needs to be repaired and then place one piece of fiberglass on top of it. Gently brush on another layer of epoxy and then set another piece of fiberglass on top of it. Layer the epoxy and fiberglass one more time, ending on a layer of epoxy.

This will help eliminate air bubbles that might be stuck between layers. Smooth the surface as much as possible while it is wet. Look for imperfections and bubbles, which will show up in the finished product. Use the tip of your brush to pop any bubbles you see and to fill any voids. Sand after the resin is fully cured. Follow the directions on the epoxy resin you used to determine how long the epoxy needs to set. In most cases, this will be about 24 hours. Once it is set, you can sand it smooth.

Start with a rough sandpaper, such as 80 grit, to get large chunks of the resin off. Then use fine grit sandpaper, such as grit, to make the surface totally smooth.

Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. Submit a Tip All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published. Related wikiHows How to. How to. More References 8. About This Article. Co-authored by:. Co-authors: 4. Updated: February 17, Categories: Working with Glass.

Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read 11, times. Did this article help you? You quickly turn back to the boat, eyes wide and face flushed� what the heck is that� that crack! You step on the boat and rush over to it for a closer look. One here, one there, and one over there� and one in the sink too! Unfortunately, the scenario above realistically, does happen all too often.

Little hairline cracks appearing here and there on the surface of the boat. They can appear anywhere, in and around hatches, sinks, shower stalls, bridges, steering columns, decks, Fiberglass Boat Building Steps Royal transoms� you name it. The causes for stress cracks are much the same as for blistering. Gel coat hardened too quickly or with improper curing temperatures and conditions can also promote stress cracks in the gel coat itself.

For more details on some of the things that can go wrong in the fiberglass during the manufacturing process please refer to the blistering article. When these voids are present, or when the fiberglass is lacking in strength because it was not mixed properly, or because enough fiberglass was not applied it paves the way for stress cracking. Your boat body will flex some even during normal use. Fiberglass is strong, and if mixed properly, and if enough is applied, the fiberglass will take up much of that flexing.

But gelcoat is very brittle and has no strength to it. When the boat flexes and twists, the fiberglass flexes and twists and so does the gel coat. The fiberglass can take a lot of that flexing and twisting, but the gel coat is so brittle it sort of wants to just, well, snap. Hence you get these little hairline cracks in the gel coat surface itself. Other times, maybe a small hairline crack formed in the fiberglass, but this is more rare. Once a stress crack begins, it can travel for great lengths.

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