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This project felt very overwhelming at first. I wasn't familiar with fibreglass repairs or what I would need to accomplish such a heavy task. The canoe was still very, very blue. Long story short, I stopped counting sanding hours after 24, the canoe was significantly yellower, and the holes significantly bigger.

It's a good idea to remove any plates or hardware before you begin sanding. The ID plate was riveted on. The fastest way to remove these is to simply drill into the rivet centre. The trick here is to not use a drill bit much larger than the rivet centre itself. The goal isn't to drill a new hole, just separate the rivet from the canoe.

Good preparation is important. The yellow colour was the colour of the original gel coat, so with a complete restoration like this it is important to get right down to that original colour. Also, much of the research I did in this repair stated that it is best to get rid of as much of the damaged fibreglass as well.

You don't want old problems to become big headaches down the road. I sanded with a small, orbital hand sander which I've been told is a bit of a "no-no" with large projects like this. This is possibly the reason for the wave in the hull that is quite noticeable though other damage could have resulted in this as well. This can be avoided by using a longboard sander, much like what is used in automotive restoration. Supposedly these are easily found at any automotive store.

I was told about this after I was pretty much done with sanding The gel coat on this boat was spider cracking all over the place as well. The advice I saw stated to sand those out the best you can. This was difficult and I was afraid of sanding more holes in the hull than I wanted to fix. The reason you want to get rid of these is so that they don't show up when you put on the fresh paint which they do , but I was willing to let it go for the amount of sanding I had done already.

Before I got started on the more concerning holes in the hull and wanted to attempt repairing the thwart, yoke and deck. I went this route first so that I could make decisions about whether I needed to build or purchase a new thwart and yoke, as well as completely redesigning the deck.

Chunks of foam were missing from the thwart that made it difficult to connect, and then reinforce with fibreglass. I used a spray insulation foam, typically used to seal cracks around window and door framing, as a filler.

I than wrapped the thwart with painters tape to maintain the shape and reduce the amount of foam I would need to shape afterwards. I used a strap wrapped around the hull to secure the thwart while the foam set, this strap remained in place until after fibreglass reinforcement was applied to the area. The yoke was trickier to align properly to reinforce with fibreglass since it is hollow. Seeing as the foam spray worked with the thwart I decided to empty a can into the yoke wrapped in painters tape to force it to stay aligned properly.

This worked well. Removing the foam afterwards however, was not an option. The deck had been torn apart from the previous painter and had to be built up again. I did this by filling the gap with foam spray.

Once it had dried I drilled out a new hole for the painter, and carved the edges closer to the original deck. A friend built me a model to create a fibreglass tube so that I could reinforce the deck.

It kind of worked as I ended up with a fibreglass tube, but pulling it off the copper rod pulled the fibreglass inside out from how I had set it on the model. Perhaps if I had let it dry there it would have slid off easier.

I wasn't certain I would have been able to remove it after it dried as it stuck to the copper quite well. Perhaps a smoother, or lubricated surface would not have had such issues, and offered different assurances.

Once the canoe was completed sanded down, and the residue washed, dusted, wiped, dried off I moved the canoe indoors to avoid bugs and pollen get stuck to the sticky stuff. You also want to be sure your project won't be rained on or get too hot. A well ventilated area is also a must as resin has a hazardous odor. It is important to have all the pieces you will be applying prepared before mixing the resin and hardener. Especially if you are working in warmer conditions.

The resin can take anywhere from 8 minutes to 14 minutes to begin to set up and become unworkable. Follow the directions for mixing the resin and hardener that appears on the container. It is slightly different for different products. I used a bristle brush to take the fibreglass resin up in just the tips of the brush.

You apply the fibreglass resin by dabbing, not brushing, it onto the fibreglass cloth or material you are using I used cloth. Brushing will cause the fibres to separate and you don't want that to happen. Most of the fibreglass work on this canoe was applied to the outside. It doesn't really matter which side you're going to build up, but that first layer is important in supporting all the rest.

You want to make sure that the first layer is at least 1"-2" wider than the hole being repaired. Obviously, we don't want the other material falling through the hole. I've seen some folks use painters tape, or packing tape to cover the hole on one side while filling in the fibreglass from the other. The premise is the same. You want to have a "net" to prevent the repair from going right through the hole. I made a mistake and attempted to apply my fibreglass "net" while the canoe sat on the sawhorses with the hull facing the ceiling.

I ended pushing it too far through the hole and when I went to sand between layers I created a hole in my "net". This occurred largely because I had not saturated my fibreglass before applying it and as I was attempting to do this while it was on the canoe I stretched out the fibreglass that straddled the hole, pushing it through. You want build up the fibreglass patches by adding layers of fibreglass cloth that gradually get smaller and smaller in an attempt to create a level surface.

Small holes of " may only require layers, where larger holes can require twice that. You can apply multiple layers at a time. Sand once it is cured and reassess to see if you need to apply more layers in lower areas. Gel coat is of course the best option for a finish. Gel coat is what is applied when the canoe is first moulded. Applying it after the fact as a repair is a more difficult and delicate process that requires expertise and a lot of elbow grease to prevent an "orange peel" effect.

Take two scale 8 by 4 sheets mine are one mm to the inch cut one into 4 equal strips to make the sides. Cut the other one on an even diagonal to make the bottom and make your test model. This little cardboard model is showing me how I will be happy with the bottom being 32 inches wide using one sheet of cardboard I mean plywood cut on the diagonal. If you have pirate themed mega blox all the better. Not much to this - cut the sheet of plywood for the sides in half, stack them on top of each other cut in half again.

Stack these on top of each other again and cut a 4 inch diagonal off the end of all 4 at once. This way if you make a mistake, such as cutting a 5 rather than 4 inch diagonal all 4 will have the same mistake and will still be even.

Any length around 3 - 12 inches will give you a workable boat, the more you take off the more your boat will turn in and as a consequence up at the ends. If your plywood has a good side and a bad side make sure you lay them so you can make a boat with all the good side facing either in side or outside. Feel free to change this up and have different ends. Join the sides in the middle using your favoured plywood joining method.

I have never had it happen to me but I am assuming that having plywood epoxied to your garage floor is not fun. The two pieces to be joined are placed carefully on top and more fiberglass is added to the top.

More baking paper, plastic, a bit of a flat board and a heavy toolbox or similar weight to keep it flat. The experts recommend a 3 inch strip of fiberglass. After much fiddling about I cut a diagonal in the sheet of plywood starting from about six inches in from the corner along the short side to about six inches from the opposite corner, or thereabouts. Then join the two pieces in the middle using a suitable join - if making a butt join try and make it central and allow for clearance at the sides.

I did this after making the sides and sticking them to the temporary frame but a better time would have been roughly at the same time as making the sides so things will be glued up and ready to go at more or less the same time. I forgot to take pictures so here is a cardboard model layout.

Make a central frame. There is a little bit of math here that kind of gives you your rocker, or the amount of curve in the bottom and top of the boat. Here is my condensed explanation. Because we assume that the side of the boat is a cylindrical section, the outside corner points of the panel when viewed from front on is considered a right angle and we can square some hippos or something to work out that if the side panel is 12 inches and we want to make a boat with a 32 inch wide bottom and give ourselves 5 inches of rocker, Mr Pythagoras tells us that if we want the height from the bottom to be 5 and the other side is 16 half of 32 then the hippo side is the square root of 5 squared plus 16 squared which is I am going to call it three and a half because I know this is that fancy book learning that gets you into trouble and makes your head hurt and wood also forms cones and parabolic splines as well as cylinders and never goes where you tell it anyway.

Why 5? The lazy weekend canoe, which has sides two inches higher than this one has a rocker of about 6 inches. This frame is made from two bits of scrap wood attached to a piece of Styrofoam that I had laying around. Cardboard would have been just as good, if not better. Make sure the angles on both sides are the same. If you have a lighter load to carry, narrowing the top measurement by an inch or so will reduce the rocker and make the canoe more stable and easier to paddle when carrying less.

Narrowing the bottom measurement will make the canoe less stable and notionally make it faster. If narrowing the bottom measurement remember to narrow the top on as well or you could end up with a real curvy boat. Join the sides to the frame s and join sides at ends. Depending on how you are making the boat the frames might be temporary like mine is or more permanent. Stitching or duct taping the ends together in preparation for filleting and fiberglass is acceptable but I chose the stem method, measuring the angle with my bevel gauge to be carved with my plane.

Those with a table saw to do such things can dial in about 40 degrees or a couple of passes at 20 degrees. My stems stuck out a little way top and bottom initially and were glued in with titebond3 and stainless steel screws an Aldi bulk buy.

If you have more frames than I do and you use stiffer plywood you may not need to add the gunwales at this point and can go straight to tacking the bottom on but my sides were so floppy I had difficulty keeping it all together so the gunwales were added. To make the gunwales easier to attach I pre- bent them by making them wet and perching them between two supports and weighted them down for a few days.

This is a personal preference. Full length or no gaps are equally acceptable. Here is the point where you take the ubiquitous - Here are all the clamps I own holding my gunwales on photo. Because I had plenty of screws holding it on I did not actually need to do this and half a dozen clamps to hold things generally in place while I did the screws up would have been sufficient but hey - it's traditional. I am not saying your dog will bite you and your wife will leave you if you forget to take a photo like this but I would not take any chances if I were you.

I used titebond3 glue here again, but I noticed it does not stick well to epoxy. The screws and the length of wood firmly glued down without the epoxy made this less of problem than it might have been. A number of plans or ways of building boats and canoes have acurately laid out panels stitched together in accurate layout patterns or have solid frames arranged around something called a strongback.

Because I had a degree of laziness and an accurate pair of pavers I used something I call a flat floor. Between the flat floor and the bottom panel I arranged spacers to maintain the curve of the floor panel to match the curve of the bottom edge of the side panels. You can use just about anything for this from the dried shrivelled hearts of your enemies to a roll of really soft toilet paper.

Always have a roll of really soft toilet paper in your workshop. When you are happy with the evenness of the sides and the gracefulness of the curves of your boat tack glue the bottom in place - I used the epoxy I was going to use in the end, but I have heard of people using everything from 5 minute epoxy to hot glue to drywall screws to hold things in place. Having a center line on the floor and on the frame helps keep everything lined up.

Once everything was firmly stuck together I removed that temporary bottom brace and broke out some of that polystyrene, leaving the top brace in place for the moment. The original lazy weekend canoe used external chine logs and a different join in the bottom of the canoe. If you are going to mix their method to attach the bottom with my cut, you may need to build the middle frame a smidge narrower. I used epoxy but Bondo and polyester resin are probably acceptable for a boat of this ilk.

For other tasks I used fine sawdust from my belt sander. Note the shape of the special fillet spreader which has the angle of the sides and the radius cut into it. A time saving tip is to not wait for the fillet to set before adding the fibreglass strip over the top. You can be heaps messier laying down the fillet as laying down and smoothing the fibreglass strip will make evening out any underlayng unevenness easier. It also saves the whole sanding off the wax layer thing that you have to do if you are using poly rather than epoxy.

After I glassed it I noticed the left and right sides were not quite as even as I thought. Never mind this will probably make it tend to turn in one direction or another, making it easier to do a J stroke ;. Now we flip it over and trim off the excess. I tried using a flush cut saw attachment, on my multi-tool but that was too slow so I tried a manual flush cut saw which I could not get to go parallel for me.

A 10mm roundover bit was then resorted to and the edges were then cleaned up with a plane and sanded smooth. A jig saw with the base tilted to about 30 degrees so it did not hit the side of the boat would also have worked nicely and perhaps not created as much sawdust, leaving more leftover plywood for making paddle blades and the like.

As you can see there was not a lot of plywood left over. Due to the mishap with the router a bit more epoxy with filler was required but apart from those places the epoxy went on the sides swimmingly, which is more than I can say for the stems, which were decidedly messy.

A word of warning about epoxy. Glue and clamp down a keel strip- put some screws through the bottom to make it clamp to the bottom of the canoe more evenly. Remembering to have a center line was a big bonus here. Now we re-use the offcuts from the sides to make the front and rear decks. We first use the offcuts to mark the largest area we can cover then we start fitting angles. This is a lot easier than it might look to the layman. Firstly the angle of the top is drawn in by having the piece of wood upside down.

Align your saw to both angles and presto - a neatly fitted piece of wood. Because we used epoxy a bit of leeway is acceptable and the piece of masking tape was all the clamping pressure we needed to hold it in place. Screws were added as a secondary joining method later. At the bow front end I am putting a bit more reinforcing to take a tow bar so I can tow it behind a bike, and as a strap down point when carrying it upside down on my roof racks..

The side seat supports are ten inches apart and the front of the aft seat starts 36 inches back from the center and the rear of the front seat starts 28 inches from the center. I took these measurements and layout from the lazy weekend canoe.

There are formulas for working out the spacing of canoe seats if you have the weight of your intended occupants and you have the inclination, feel free to Google them. The side supports are bevelled so that the seat horizontals will be aligned with them. I glued the sides with temporary braces clamped to them to keep them aligned. I made these temporary braces long enough so I could trim them to make the permanent braces.

When putting the permanent braces in ensure you either make them butt securely against the side or unlike me leave just enough room to get a paint brush into the gap to seal the end grain. Pre-sealing with epoxy would be another good option.

The height of the notional front of the seat was set as 8 inches from the floor and the height of the back was set using a spirit level while the canoe was kept level with my precision 5 inch wide pavers. Note the pencil line drawn in to show vertical and that the parts are all numbered as I go to avoid mixing them up as they are all cut to fit.

You might notice I replaced the remainder of that temporary center frame with a cross piece or yoke, or thwart. This adds structural integrity and makes a useful point to carry the canoe upside down on your shoulders.

Some people take a bit of time to shape the yoke to fit their shoulders and neck if they plan on carrying the canoe for long distances, or maybe just for show. If I had been thinking ahead my temporary frame would have had a permanent element. The seat slats were added from the center out, spacing the slats with a small jig knocked up from scraps for the purpose. Alternatively you could go with any other seating arrangement you chose including; plywood ; weaving a seat into the frame; an old lawn chair, etc.

I think this canoe would work reasonably as a single person row boat with a central seat and six and a half to seven feet oars. Notionally there is a bit more rocker than required but this can come in useful when rowing because of the shifting center of gravity.

Trim off excess wood. Sand and paint before putting in water. You also need to ensure your epoxy or polyester resin does not have any Amine blush or wax left on the surface because paint does not stick to that. Some epoxies like the Botecote epoxy I used is not prone to those problems.

Polyester resin always has a wax residue on the surface, which allows it to cure properly. The paint and colours I am using here are the product of careful selection from the back of my cupboard of leftover paints and from the miss-tint and return section of my local hardware store.

All are just ordinary exterior house paints. The undercoating was applied in two coats, one watered down and one full strength. The outside is Canadian Pine. The trim gunwales and seats is from a "computer prediction" which apparently didn't because it had been returned.

Remember to wait after painting for slightly longer than the "touch dry" time before sticking it in the water as paint takes a good while longer to cure fully before being at its full hardness and may re-emulsify i. A quick dip to christen it should not be too much of a problem but painting the day before a week long canoeing trip is probably going to end in tears.

Total weight after painting was about 29 kilograms or about 64 pounds. Now put your life jacket, PFD or whatever else you call it on, put your canoe in the water and paddle it. My son is responsible for the name "Neef the Canoe".

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