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Dirt or dust will get stuck under gelcoat, so also make sure your surface is clean. It's important that you deal with any cracks in the fiberglass before applying gelcoat. You need to have a smooth fiberglass surface before you apply gelcoat. Choose another answer!
Not quite! If you want your gelcoat to be colored, you'll have to add color separately. Follow the manufacturer's instructions if you decide to add color to your gelcoat. Try again MEKP will help your gelcoat start to harden, so it's pretty important.
If your gelcoat doesn't come with any MEKP when you buy it, you'll have to buy it separately. This is what a sanding aid will do. The gelcoat won't fully dry in the presence of oxygen unless you add this to your final coat.
You'll need at least three layers of gelcoat on your fiberglass. Let each coat dry for at least 4 hours before applying the next coat. Rubbing compound won't change the color. It will affect the gelcoat's appearance in other ways. Try another answer Rubbing compound will make your gelcoat look smoother and shinier. Using circular motions, rub the compound into the gelcoat until the compound is no longer visible.
If you want reflective gelcoat, consider using wax instead. You should also sand down your gelcoat with grit sandpaper to get rid of any small imperfections or rough spots. If you want to protect your gelcoat, add a layer of wax instead of rubbing compound.
Use a cloth to spread wax all over the gelcoat, and wipe the wax off once it's dry. Support wikiHow by unlocking this staff-researched answer. Before you gelcoat fiberglass, fill in any cracks or gouges with a polyester filler and then sand the damaged areas down with grit sandpaper. Clean the fiberglass with soap and water and wipe it down with a rag soaked in acetone, and immediately removing it with a clean dry rag. When the fiberglass Diy Fiberglass Boat Restoration Film is dry, mix gelcoat with methyl ethyl ketone peroxide in a bucket to activate the gelcoat.
For small sections of fiberglass, apply the gelcoat with a brush. For tips on how to sand and wax the gelcoat once it dries, keep reading! Did this summary help you? Yes No. We've been helping billions of people around the world continue to learn, adapt, grow, and thrive for over a decade. Every dollar contributed enables us to keep providing high-quality how-to help to people like you.
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By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1 of Fill in any cracks or gouges in the fiberglass with polyester filler, marine grade. Epoxy filler, although a great product is not suitable for a gel-cote top coat.
Polyester gel-cotes will not chemically bond to epoxy. To fill in damaged areas, start by sanding them with coarse 36 grit sandpaper to remove any debris. Then, fill in the damaged areas with the polyester filler using a plastic spreader. Clean the fiberglass surface with ajax or comet and water. Go over the fiberglass with a soapy rag and then wipe it down with a clean rag to remove any leftover suds.
Wipe the fiberglass down with acetone to remove grease and wax. Part 1 Quiz How should you fix cracks in your fiberglass before applying gelcoat? Sand them down. Fill them with epoxy. Just clean them with Comet or Ajax. Gelcoat will take care of the cracks. Want more quizzes? Keep testing yourself! Part 2 of Combine gelcoat and methyl ethyl ketone peroxide in a bucket. Methyl ethyl ketone peroxide MEKP is a catalyst used to make gelcoat start to harden. Add gelcoat color pigments if you want your gelcoat to be colored.
If you want the gelcoat to be a different color than white, you'll need to add color pigments. Brush the gelcoat onto the fiberglass using short vertical strokes. You want there to be a thick, even layer of gelcoat on the fiberglass. A gelcoat spray gun will make it easier to get an even coverage on a large fiberglass surface.
To use a gelcoat spray gun, fill the plastic container on the gun with your gelcoat. Then, attach the cord on the gun to an air supply source, like an air compressor. Hold the spray gun about 1 foot 0. Let the first coat of gelcoat dry for 4 hours and then check on it. The first coat should feel tacky when you touch it. If your fingernail does leave an impression, let the gelcoat dry for a couple more hours. Apply 2 more coats of gelcoat to the fiberglass. Let the second coat dry for 4 hours like you did with the first coat.
For the final cote add sanding aid.. A mixture of styrene and gulf wax, to the gel-cote and add MEKP as before. This may be purchased at the same place you bought the gel-cote. It is important to note that gelcoat is air inhibited, meaning that it will not fully cure in the presence of oxygen.
The wax migrates to the surface of the final coat and creates a barrier to allow the gel to cure. It colors it. It helps it harden. It helps it dry more thoroughly. It makes it so that you'll only need two coats of gelcoat. Part 3 of Sand the surface of the fiberglass with 1, grit sandpaper. Sanding the fiberglass will help smooth out any rough spots in the gelcoat. Apply rubbing compound to the fiberglass with a cloth. Joined Apr 28, Messages 7, Build a plug, then a mold and pop um out.
Well - - there is a tad more to it - - you might do a bit of research on how the manufacturers do it to get an idea Diy Fiberglass Boat Restoration Solution on what is involved. Joined Mar 6, Messages There's big bucks tied up in molds they're expensive to produce and maintain and are meant for mass production.
Joined Feb 12, Messages 1, Why would you want to do this? I'm all for learning, but is that the best approach for your end goal not sure what that is from your post?
Molds are produced for mass production. There is no reason to build a mold. But now I'm wondering what it would cost to build an offshore fisher type for overnight trips up and down the river.
Could one be built for a lot less than, let's say, a Crownline or other mass produced Cabin cruiser? Joined Feb 8, Messages 6, Wouldn't you be better off to start with something like that?
Don S Honorary Moderator Emeritus. Joined Aug 31, Messages 62, Joined Mar 26, Messages 4, I don't have the site available, but if you google Bruce Roberts i'm sure it will turn up. He is a world renowned designer of larger yachts, I think the smallest thing he has is about 28 feet and they go up to well over feet. As for the feasability of developing a mold It is a very very expensive process and unless you intend to use it to build many many boats it is a waste.
It just takes alot more man hours to complete. My wife and I are tossing around several plans from different designers right now. We know we want something classic, it must have a cabin, it must be trailerable. We still have many other decisions to make - cuddy, enclosed salon, single helm, flying bridge, displacement or planing hull, the list goes on If you are serious about this, get a plan set for something small like a canoe or kayak and see of you have the patience or even the desire to build a larger craft.
It really all depends on materials and finish. However, the final value would suffer greatly to the point that it would probably be worth little more than the material cost. Get clickin' and start dreamin'. Mark42 Fleet Admiral. Joined Oct 8, Messages 9, The guy said he's had it stored in his barn for 5 years, and it has been stripped,but the hull is sound. He wants me to 'make him an offer', but did say he got it for free. The only thing is finding something to tow a 33' boat.
Guess I'd figure that into the cost of the package. Although, I could just have someone tow it to the lake for me and wet slip it for the summer. Especially if it has a working trailer for a 33'boat.
BTW, to repower a 33' boat, you are talking some serious horsepower.
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