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There are several processes in this boat building instructable that can be done concurrently. While you're waiting for the epoxy on one part to cure, you can be doing woodworking or epoxying another part. This step illustrates that point. While you're waiting for the epoxy on the rub rail outwale to cure, you can be fabricating the sailboat accessories e.
You can't bend a single piece that thick around the curvature of the hull without either breaking the wood or softening it by steaming it which is a complicated process. Take a strip that's half the final thickness and a little longer than the boat edge I made mine a bit beefier , mix up some peanut butter with the colloidal silica and carefully spread it on the inside of the strip.
Starting at the stern, clamp it in place, perfectly align it with the top edge of the plywood. Now you have a long, springy lever to bend the wood strip along the compound curve. It dips both vertically shear , and bows out at the widest part of the boat beam , then back in toward the bow.
At least every foot, clamp it as you go, moving forward. More is better. Toward the bow, the strip will get stiffer as it gets shorter. It's much easier to remove now than after it hardens.
Let it sit overnight. You'll have to repeat this three more times, meaning this step takes four days if you're using "slow" epoxy hardener.
During those four days that you're dealing with the outwale, you can make major progress on the sailboat parts. They're completely separate from the hull. If you're just making a rowboat, then you can skip making these parts. The daggerboard and rudder are cut out and laminated. Then a bevel is ground onto the leading and trailing edges to make it slice through the water more efficiently. Then they're covered in layers of epoxy.
The mast step is assembled. This has to be very strong because all of the force of the sail is transmitted to the boat through the mast step and the mast is a very long lever arm. The rudder cheek plates and tiller also have to be assembled similarly to the daggerboard case. NOTE: Whenever there's a hole to be drilled into any part of the boat, you must take additional steps to make sure the water doesn't penetrate and damage the wood.
The correct procedure is to drill an over-sized hole, completely fill that hole with epoxy I usually put a piece of masking tape on the back side to act as a dam , then once the epoxy cures, re-drill in the center of the epoxy plug the correct hole size. That makes each hole in the boat possibly a 2 day process, so plan accordingly. You can also use 5 minute epoxy to knock out a bunch of holes quickly, but be careful, they're not kidding. This stuff gets rock hard very quickly and will permanently glue anything touching.
Since all the parts need several coats of unthickened epoxy and they just about all have holes in them, I hung them up with some twine and painted them on all sides, one layer at a time, for several days.
Make sure the rudder doesn't get too thick to fit inside the cheek plates. More sailboat parts you can make while waiting for other parts to cure are the spars, the structural parts that support the sail. The mast is another glue up. I used 3 - 1x3's of hemlock. A relatively soft wood, but with a nice tight grain with no knots. A mast would break at a knot, regardless of how strong the wood is.
Using the waterproof glue, align the pieces as perfectly as you can then clamp up the assembly and let dry overnight. Then run it through a table saw to get the final dimensions. Use a router and a round-over bit to ease the edges. Cut to length and sand the sharp corners.
It should fit easily, but snugly into the forward thwart. The boom bottom of sail is a little more complicated. Cut out the gooseneck boom pivot point by using a hole saw first, making sure to clamp it securely to the workbench, then cut out the profile. This gets attached to another piece of 1x3 hemlock, after it's been cut to length and the edges have been rounded over. The yard top of sail is easy. Just cut to length and round over the edges.
Drill and fill any holes in the spars at this time. You'll need at least one hole on each end to lash the sail grommets to. This time, everything gets covered with several coats of varnish, epoxy is not necessary.
The varnish protects the wood from water and UV damage. The reason we had to make at least the mast at this point is because we'll need it in the next step to establish the location of the mast step.
Once the outwales are successfully attached, trim them flush with the face of the transom s. While you're at it, use a flush cut saw with no sawtooth offset to mar the wood to trim the sides flush with the transom. This will show you how well your injected silica mix worked earlier. Now you're ready to install the mast step. The mast step must be precisely located on the floor sole of the boat to give the mast the proper angle rake. This is very important because it directly affects the boat's ability to sail upwind.
Using your mast, insert it into the forward thwart partner and into the mast step. Use a combination square to make sure it's perfectly aligned side to side athwartship. You can now set the mast aside. Drill and fill holes in the bottom of the boat so that you can securely screw the mast step from the outside of the hull. The mast base must also be epoxied to the sole with peanut butter. After it's screwed into place but before the epoxy cures, make sure to test fit the mast again and verify the rake angle is correct.
It would be a little messy at this point if you had to tweak it, but at least you wouldn't have to cut it off. Now comes the most unpleasant part of the whole build. On your hands and knees, make a 1" radius fillet on the underside of every part in the boat. I didn't worry about making these pretty, just structural and water tight these create the flotation tanks that keep the boat from sinking if you capsize. Let that cure overnight. Next is the scariest part of the build, making the slot in the hull for the daggerboard.
Using a drill bit extension, from the inside of the boat, reach down through the daggerboard case and drill a hole at each end of the slot through the bottom of the boat make sure to use a backer board. Drill a couple holes in between, then take a jigsaw and connect the dots. This weakens the hull enough so that the router won't tear out any extra wood. Note, this step can easily be done prior to affixing the center thwart. This will make the hole in the hull perfectly match the slot.
This is important because you don't want a shoulder on the inside for the daggerboard to hit and you don't want to damage the waterproof lining of the case. Last, ease the sharp edge of the daggerboard slot with the router and a small radius round-over bit. Make sure to snap a chalk line on the centerline of the boat for reference. Then make a 1" fillet where it meets the hull which will support the skeg and make it strong. The skeg keeps the boat tracking straight in the water.
I optionally used some fiberglass cloth to cover the skeg and overlap onto the bottom to make the entire assembly stronger and more waterproof.
The skeg will take the brunt of the abuse when launching, beaching, loading and unloading, etc. I also installed a stainless steel rubstrake on the aft end of the skeg with this in mind. In wooden boat building, silicone bronze screws are often used because they won't corrode when encapsulated like stainless steel screws can.
Install the skids parallel to the skeg. These are solid pieces of hardwood because they will also take a lot of abuse when Diy Dinghy Sailboat 860 the boat is sitting on shore, protecting the thin hull from rocks, etc. They get installed the same way as the skeg, although it's a little tough to bend the wood along the rocker. Scrape off the excess peanut butter once they're screwed in place. I also installed the optional outboard motor pad at this point because I plan to use an electric trolling motor on the back to quietly putter around the lake in the evenings to relax with the family after work.
Now comes the last dash to the finish line. One of the more tedious steps is that you now have to sand the entire boat. I actually built the entire boat inside, but for the sanding stage, I took her outside. Several hours of sanding all of the fillets nice and smooth. Everything will show in the finished product whether you paint the boat or leave it "bright" unpainted.
If you've been careful about cleaning up the peanut butter as you go, you should be able to sand the boat with mostly grit. Be careful not to sand through the thin veneer of the plywood. After the sanding is done make sure to use a dust mask , vacuum the entire boat and then wipe it down with a tack cloth to remove any dust. I also reversed the hose on the shop vac and used it to blow the sawdust off since I was Diy Dinghy Sailboat 120 outside. Next, you must coat the entire interior and exterior with coats of unthickened epoxy.
This makes the entire boat waterproof. It will also give you an idea of how beautiful the wood will look when varnished. This is why a lot of boat builders decide to leave their boats bright so the beauty of the wood shows through.
Mix up 1 cup batches of unthickened epoxy and pour out large puddles onto the surface. Taking a foam roller, distribute the epoxy in a smooth coat. Now take a wide foam brush and gently smooth tip the rolled out surface. This should remove any lap marks or bubbles. Move along to the next area, making sure to not touch the wet parts.
Also, make sure no dust or bugs get on your finish or it'll mean even more sanding later. Start with the exterior first. It'll be much easier to get good by practicing on the convex surfaces. The interior is more tricky because you want to prevent sags and pooling by only applying very thin coats. Make sure to check with the manufacturer's directions during this step in case you have to deal with "blushing", a thin layer that can sometimes form on the surface of epoxy when it cures.
This could cause your layers to not stick to each other. If your epoxy does blush, it's easy to just wipe the entire boat down with a rag soaked in acetone after each coat has cured. Some people sand between coats of epoxy. I'm planning on banging my boat around so opted out of an extreme, fancy, mirror finish. I was originally going to paint the exterior of the hull, which would require priming and painting, but I'm leaving it bright for the time being. The good news is that you can always paint later if you change your mind, but if you paint it and change your mind, it's tough to go back.
There aren't a lot of pics of this step, which took a couple of days because there wasn't much visible progress after that first coat went on. At this point, any surface that's not painted should be varnished using the same "roll and tip" method as the epoxy, with the optional sanding between coats. Note that epoxy has no UV resistance, so to keep your boat from getting sunburned, you must either paint or varnish every surface. Another step you can do while other parts are curing is make the sail.
This particular design uses a "lug" sail, a classic looking sail for small boats with wood masts. It increases the sail area therefore the force generated by the wind without it having to be as tall as a modern sailboat mast made of aluminum. There is a kit from an online sailmaking company that you can get for a reasonable price. The Dacron cloth panels are all cut out by a CNC machine, so they fit perfectly together. I used a regular, domestic sewing machine, not an industrial one.
The only time I had trouble was when sewing through all 7 layers at the reinforcement patches. When I got to those parts, I had to manually push down on the foot of the sewing machine with a flat-bladed screwdriver minus to help push the needle through the Dacron. We jokingly call Philips head screwdrivers "plus". The directions were a bit confusing because they suggest you make sub-assemblies after the fact to make wrangling the large sail easier but they mention it after you've already sewn the large panels together.
It's important to understand what parts go together while the panels are still small and more manageable.
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