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Wooden Optimist: Building the Optimist dinghy - frames Building the Ice Optimist Iceboat for Kids. We are indebted to DNer Ken Smith for sharing his Ice Optimist plans and instructions. All files are in pdf to make downloading and printing much more efficient. All pages reprinted with permission from the author, Ken Smith, and we encourage you to download and print them for your own personal myboat059 boatplansted Reading Time: 1 min. Apr 07, �� This sets you up for crafting much larger and more complicated boats in the future. All that a sailor requires to create this eight ball dinghy is two sheets of ply wood. Two one quarter inch by four foot by eight foot pieces will serve your objective nicely and be more than enough to . This is quite simple: you unscrew all the hull sides from the 12mm thick lower panel, lift off the top of the boat as the four sides in one unit, apply glue, then screw it back together. You then glue and screw each corner, one at a time.
Main points:

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Powering a vessel is but disbelief a single of a many costly tools of structure the build your own optimist dinghy do .

Building any project is working toward a goal by solving a series of problems. The Ice Optimist is a moderately simple wood project. It requires a limited set of tools, some skills at fitting and gluing, and considerable skills at scrounging and improvising, as some of the hardware is, to my knowledge, just not available commercially anywhere.

A fair dose of perseverance is required. If this is your first boat project, more time will be spent head-scratching than building. None of the sail controls are adjusted. When there are choppy conditions or a big wave, bear off and ease the sail to stay powered up.

In a flat spot, trim harder to improve your pointing. Because the Optimist is a hard-chine boat, keeping the boat flat is critical�the boat makes leeway and the rudder works like a brake when you allow heel.

Move your mainsheet and tiller extension to the same hand and use your free hand to toss the water in the bailer overboard. Heading downwind, you always sit on the rail, heeling a little to windward to lift the leeward chine out of the water and to tilt the sail a little higher.

In surf and big waves, move aft quite a bit to avoid submarining the bow under a wave and then move forward again. The amount of fore-and-aft body movement is greater in an Optimist than in some other singlehanders because the bow is blunt, so in waves you need to work hard to keep it above water.

Otherwise, the most important adjustment is your sprit tension. In light to medium winds, ease the sprit slightly when you round the weather mark so that the sail looks smooth. Top sailors grab the sheet at the ratchet block and pump it by extending their hand up over their heads. You are allowed one pump per wave, and at major regattas there are on-water judges keeping count.

Think about how far in or out you have the boom, and think about how much you should be moving fore and aft. This takes practice, always keeping the boat moving but at the slowest speed possible. You want just enough flow across the leech of your main to hold your spot.

In light air, the key is rolling at the right time. Be patient, and wait until the boat is head to wind before you start the roll.

Start from sitting inside the boat. As the boat passes head to wind, move to the old windward side to initiate the roll.

Then hop across to the new windward side, trying to land inside the boat so as not to over flatten. In all conditions, over-trim the mainsheet when you start your tack until head to wind so you maintain flow on your sail, then ease it through rest of the process and finally trim the sheet afterwards, usually after the boat has been flattened.

The main trim is the same. Ease the main during the tack once you pass head to wind and then trim when fully hiked.

Over-rolling the boat and filling it with water is easily the worst mistake. In light air, be sure not to use too much rudder. We have one word to describe finding the right amount of roll for each condition�practice! In light air, keep it smooth. Have the boat rocked to weather already, then just lean in and grab the parts of the mainsheet, lean out, and pull the sail over. Stand up and walk across the boat to avoid a big splash, then transition to heel the boat again to windward.

In medium winds, your roll jibe is the same but involves a quick hop across the boat as you would in a tack. In heavy air, the jibe is different. When you are ready to jibe, jibe with confidence by making a decisive turn at the same time that you pull the main over. As the sail comes over, cross the boat quickly to the rail and steer back to leeward on the new jibe. Make sure they are fully inflated so less water gets in the boat. If you flip, right the boat from the windward side and spend at least one minute standing in the boat and bailing hard with both bailers, which are attached to the boat with bungee cords.

At that point you can start sailing and bail out Build Your Own Boat Ramp 404 the rest as you go. Practice making degree turns. Doing circles not only is good practice for when you may have to clear yourself from a foul in a race, but also teaches you to sail the boat well, using your body weight to trim and turn the boat.

The Optimist has a huge rudder, which also makes s fast, but good movement and trim is the key. It takes practice to learn where the edge is in heavy air.

Other mistakes we see include using too much rudder instead of doing smooth roll tacks and roll jibes. This applies to sailing in a straight line, too.

For example, avoid using too much rudder downwind. If you start heeling to weather too much, the boat wants to head down. Instead of pushing the tiller to compensate, shift your body weight to leeward and trim the main. The class grew and grew. The boats lasted for years and many of those old boats still exist. Then came what was to be a very large change in the class rules.

The allowance and introduction of GRP fibreglass which more or less sent the older wooden boats into history; why? It raced in the SA Nationals in When our daughter was learning to sail, she was about 12 or so.

We took her to the Imperial Yacht Club, which sails and races dinghies on a lake near our home. There we saw the old plywood Optimists but also the newer GRP boats. All the top kids wanted to sail one of those, saying they were better boats. If more money buys better they had to be. At the time I had an idea to make a plywood Optimist for Janet as she was proving to be a fine little sailor.

Plans were freely available from Hans who was in charge of the association here in the Cape. So asking my good friend Andy, of the local North Sails loft, what he thought about the difference he simply told me the GRP boats were better as they were stiffer. Asking why I was shocked to hear that the GRP boat has a foam sandwich bottom! I said it was easy for me to construct a plywood boat in the same manner? That he said would not measure so would not be allowed to compete.

As I could not afford the expensive GRP boats and there was little point in building a plywood boat that was not competitive, so at that time it was the end of the story where plywood was concerned. They started with selecting very light Occume Marine Plywoods; one sheet of 12mm and one sheet of 6mm.

This was a large departure from the previous plywood construction. The 12mm sheet became the bottom and in a stroke of good design they had equalled the foam sandwich stiffness.

By not using as many Meranti wood cleat and all the screws but just epoxy and glass tapes they saved lots of weight and now we had a boat that was both light weight and stiff.

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