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How-to DIY Trailer Racks ideas in | utility trailer, roof top tent, trailer Jun 06, �� This forum is dedicated to trailer-towing issues. Moderators: Admin, BarneyS Post New Topic | Subscribe | Topics from Today Last 7 Days Last 14 Days Last 30 Days Last 3 Months Last 6 Months Last 12 Months. 12 Foot classic tinny De Havilland, very solid and has high sides. 15 Hp 2T Parsons late model outboard runs like new. 40hours on it. Quiet and economical Comes with; 12 L new tank and hose As new full length Bimini Driver swivel padded seat Anchor and storage under front area 2 life jackets Trailer with axle savers Casting removable deck Trailer and boat licensed. Light Dinghy Free Plans. Free plans. To download the file, click HERE This is a small pram dinghy designed to be built by the same kind of method as my Light Trow - the lower chine and bottom are built using the age-old skiff method of bending sides around a central mould.
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Clamp them in place with cloths pins. Build a dinghy trailer works constructing skeleton - a mental condition of constructing or proudly owning yourdry timber is preferable to fresh wood. In a eventuality you're constructing the stitch as well as glue vesselnonetheless after variations likewise have operate of light weight aluminum as well as fibreglass.

I know many of the odds and ends from the local hardware store were missed. This sounds like a pretty good chunk of cash � and it is. But if you compare it to a similar craft like the C-Dory it is actually not too bad. At least these are the prices I was finding in the spring of Built by Ed Skulski � I have to say I used way more resin then listed in the Bill of Materials.

I believe that I did because of my inexperience working with it and being kind of sloppy. It took me approx. Hope this helps. Still get a lot of nice comments on it. I get the thumbs up wherever it goes. After building something like this you just have to keep it in the family and give it to one of the grand kids. As you know, this is not a rough water boat. I also stretched it to Peter Randall � Lemontree Passge, Australia.

Only top of the line materials were used including many custom made parts. I am not building it alone, I have rented one company that charges me euros for whole boat. Only modification that we have done so far is to make cockpit area a little bigger. I finished it in January All materials came from Bunnings, a popular Hardware store in Australia.

I used marine ply sheets and oak for the frames. Pine for the temporary timbers. I used screws that are rated for treated pine. The boat moved along quite nicely using a watersnake 54lb electric motor. The experience of building a boat was very pleasant. I love a good project to keep my mind and hands busy. The plans and instructions were easy to follow and making custom modifications was a breeze. Built by Eugen Frunza � � So far the cost is around Canadian dollars mainly for the plywood and epoxy, fiberglass, silica and microspheres, some wood filler and screws.

Including a circular sander, clamps, sending paper, etc. I intend to buy a 10 HP new engine and this will be around Canadian dollars. This was every thing from the plans through the sails and rigging. Steven Sage � Bland, VA. I built a pair of Eight Balls about 20 years ago, but they were stored outside the last 10 years and simply fell to pieces.

I reused the hardware on the new dinghy, which helped to lower the price somewhat. I live in Utah which makes getting quality boatbuilding materials a bit of a challenge.

By Rock Spencer � � So far I have only purchased the plans however, I have researched the cost and I have a rough estimate. I am planning to retire this year and I have built a shop to build the Fancy Free. I am a cost engineer so I will keep detailed records of my cost, schedule and time and report it to you when I am complete. I also built concrete canoes in college for the ASCE races and the fun of working with so many people with varying boat building experience is worth the cost.

Built by Peter Ranson � I built the Fife in The cost, including fibreglassing the exterior was around dollars Canadian. This does not include the oars. This rowing boat performs very well and has given me great pleasure rowing on the Ottawa River from April to December. Built by Phil Coyne � � In Louisiana you have to keep track of all your costs and especially your receipts for parts and materials. The reason is that Louisiana wants you to pay state taxes on them.

I purchased the vast majority of my materials online and no taxes were charged on most items. Everything for the boat not purchased within the state had to have taxes paid, so again accurate record keeping was a must.

Keep in mind that I bought my motor 5. Used exterior AB plywood for sheathing. This was in This does not include the trailer or the outboard I purchased. Nor does it include related travel to your place , misc. There was the lumber too. Don Coe � Reno, NV. Built by Carl F. Sevey � After working on the sailboat for several years, I completed it on June 25, There is a bridge between the launch and lake so the electric motor is used to get to a sandy beach where I raise the mast.

I also had a trailer. Though I had running rigging, I replaced most of it with new line. All of the bright work seats, floors, etc. I did not fiberglass the boat. The price listed includes the Sitka spruce used for the mast and boom, as well as for two sculling oars that I made from leftover spruce, oak and plywood.

The price does not include the cost for a boat trailer. I bought as much as I could hardware, sails, rigging, misc. I live near Annapolis, MD so I have access to several outlets for materials, paint, hardware and like that which minimized shipping costs. Built by Thomas Stuart � � Almost finished.

Wood was a big factor and I purchased quality woods. I bought the rigging kits and sails from Glen-L. Used a 9. General estimate would be 7 years working only a few summer months every day. Also, I diverged from the plans on the cabin and the added complication took a bit more time.

Included in the costs, the boat has fresh water, two sinks, grey and black water tanks, electric water pump, propane tank, propane stove, stainless counter top, flush toilet, refrigerator with freezer, all the lights and electrics, solar cells, plus an electric winched centre board and solid brass portlights.

All these details make for a nicer boat but it takes time and brings the costs up. Built by Garth Fawcett � June 28, � As have used and milled all my own timber and bought ply etc on the local trademe, the cost without the motors was about about 3, NZ dollars, built as a boat for my wife and me to go fishing so hence I put a cabin on it for protection against the weather. Built by Bernie Melican � � Approximate costs:.

Built by Tom Winningham � I built the Imp a couple of years ago for a friend approx. The plywood was marine, but we cut some corners with some of lumber. It was covered on the bottom with fiberglass, and then painted carefully. It has held up just fine outdoors for 3 winters and summers now. This was a great first project and very fun�good preparation for building something else. You could probably get an aluminum boat for the price of building this, but this is much nicer and much more enjoyable � a very good winter project.

He added a trolling motor not in the price. I enjoy your web site � keeps me thinking about building another boat. It took me 4 years but a year and a half of that I was spent recovering from 2 operations. I fiberglassed the exterior, added 3 built-in ice chests and 2 live bait wells, 2 built-in storage compartments, one on each side of the motor well, 4 built-in rod holders, 4 built-in cup holders and a bilge pump.

The entire aft decks, side decks and bow decks have 1 inch wood blocking underneath. I installed 2 inches thick flotation foam under all of the floor boards and under the side decks and used pour in foam around the built-in ice chests. Standard marine grade and extrude parts. I did make a few changes to it. I used heavier gauge for the chines, put a water tight storage box in the bow. I shorted the motor well a little to give me more free board. I have most of the tools I used. Did a lot of cutting with a circular saw with carbide blades.

Works good. However, I have a wife, 3 kids a mortgage and full-time job, so this is definitely part-time work! I have been a serious woodworker for 20 years and have a pretty comprehensive shop.

However I have never built a boat, so considerable time was dedicated to researching things before I bought or cut them up.

This adds to the time needed. That said, I have no doubt a skilled retiree could build this boat in a year or less. Built by a Third Grade class in the Pacific Northwest � The boat building project was priceless in what my students got out of it. They learned to read plans, measure in inches and feet, lay out lines, measure twice before cutting once and cooperation when it came time to choose colors to paint it.

Regards, Phil Storey � United Kingdom. Built by Charles Newbold � It took approx two years It was powered by a Mercruiser V6 HP. I also built the trailer to handle this boat. In building, the cost savings are not the benefit.

The real benefit is the recreation and educational aspects. I have no idea of the actual hull costs for my Little Hunk but sure enjoyed the experience. Court Robinson � Orillia, Ontario, Canada. I really enjoyed building that boat. Built by George Redden � I kept a detailed record of time and material during construction. I always thought building it was exciting, entertaining fun and never work, so if I charge for the entertainment I had, maybe the boat was free??? Plus the many, nice compliments I get are priceless.

George Redden � Staunton, VA. I kept no detailed records pertaining to money or time. I enjoyed building it and take great pride in it then and now. My Malahini elicits compliments everywhere it travels. One great advantage is the lighter weight over fiberglass.

This fall it will be going fishing in Canada. Tow vehicle is a mid size SUV. Another advantage, the money outlay is spread out over time. No work was done at night. The major costs in Aust. So you can see that the timber, epoxy, fibreglass, paint, chandlery, anchor, all safety gear and registration and insurance was less than half the total cost.

By the way, when we turned the hull off of the form we weighed it. It was kg lbs. Performance: Top speed with full fuel tanks, and carrying two adults and two children is 67 kph 42mph. I used marine fir plywood, glass tape, epoxy throughout, designed and built my own steering, and used all of your hardware. It took about 2 weeks to completely build it but time was spread over 4 months due to very little free time.

The boat and engines are the same as I had when I grew up in the time period. The Glen-L plans were excellent and am planning to build another Glen-L design this winter. I also just finished a Mercury Mark 6 restoration that will soon be tested on this boat. Bob Spiess � Griswold, CT. The work went fairly quickly until we turned the hull, and then at a crawl after that.

Other events intervened between when I started the project and when I finished it, so it would be difficult for me to give much of an estimate of the total time it took. Also, I struggled at times just trying to decipher the instructions.

But it was a rewarding project, and people who see the boat are amazed that I built it myself. Nick Adams � Winnepeg, Manitoba, Canada. Most of the work was completed in the final 11 months.

We used wood from a traditional lumber yard quality stuff! We used Mahogany for combing boards, hatch boards, and some of the more visible cockpit boards.

We never could afford any teak. The bulk of the boat was built of quality Douglas Fir as that was the cheapest wood that was recommended in the plans. The motor is a NEW Mercury 2. It will have painted topsides but varnished decks. My guess as to time is more than hours at this point. Robert Carr, Brooklyn, NY. Built by Alan Close � I have bought new in most cases but taken my time to shop around before purchasing. I have also tried to support Glen-L. Some scrounging is involved and I am doing everything, i.

John Gondek � Parkersburg. For convenience, reliability and performance reasons I chose to purchase a brand new, factory built marine engine Indmar with a new transmission as well. Those who choose to scrounge a junk yard engine and rebuild it themselves can do so for FAR less than purchasing new. Another area of some notable expense is the trailer.

Again, I chose to go the top of the line route buying a brand new, all aluminum trailer. The third item of significant expense is the upholstery. This includes every single nickel that went into the project. My bookkeeping philosophy was if I spent the money and it was related to building the boat, then I counted it.

Every nail, screw, staple, piece of sandpaper, new blade for the table saw, etc. I hope this helps. Garry Stout � Odessa, FL. There is a digital compass, a digital depth-finder, and other fancy gold plated gauges Faria that were more expensive than may really be required. I used a chromed rudder, strut and stuffing box. Sides and deck were stained, covered with 3 coats of epoxy then the 10 coats of 2-part poly, sanded and sanded and sanded and then the final spray coats.

All hardware was stainless steel. Other items make up the rest. All these number are approximate. There would be lots of ways to cut costs and still have a very nice boat. Everything is either completed or already purchased.

I scrounged heavily for everything. And of course lots of Glen-L epoxy. The boat ran great�way better than I expected.

John Wilmot � Edgewater, MD. The boat is one of the favorites of all the people I meet on the lake. After it was done I added so many extras.

July I used nice mahogany for trim work, inner and outer keel and side supports. All plywood was marine grade Okume to keep it light in weight. Built by Mike Hadfield � My first attempt at building one of your designs was the 12 foot skiff, stitch and glue method. I used exterior grade ply rather than marine grade to keep costs down in case I messed up. It took about 3 weeks to complete, taking into account moving it in and out of the garage we have small garages over here , but in reality with enough space you could almost start it Friday night and have it in the water for Monday!

Mike Hadfield, Cornwall, UK. There was a bit of waste in bad paint, redone deck, etc. But the end result was worth the effort. The lug sail is highly efficient, quick to rig and unrig. However we, the designer and users, have done significant research and development into the Lug Rig.

Later that led us into making sails with ReallySimpleSails. Or if you want a modern fast light boat look at our Viola 14 Sailing canoe. One of the biggest hints I can give them is to specify a low stretch halyard for the mainsail � spectra or dynex. If you are used to sailing modern sailing dinghy types like the Taser, Laser, OK, National 12, Windmill you will find the Goat has much of the feel of these boats.

Lively and responsive. It can sail in modern company with quick conventional dinghies and not be completely outclassed. George and Daniel raced their Goat with a regular dinghy race fleet here.

It is our first step towards a yardstick handicap number. However it has a much greater carrying capacity than any of the modern boats. I have had it out with 4 Adults and it sails very nicely indeed. It is an advantage of the easily driven hull form. The other advantage of the lug rig is that it reefs very simply. The sail area is quite big at sq ft 9. When the weather blows up then it can be reefed for good control. This is also why the GIS is relatively cheap to get on the water. A single big sail is a lot cheaper than having several smaller ones.

Generally adding a jib doubles the cost of rig and sails. The plans for the Goat Island Skiff are more like a book than a plan. Detailed information on each building step, how to join the plywood, how to mark the shapes of the panels, how to use the epoxy � it is all there. More a course on boatbuilding than a simple plan. One of the first things you notice looking at the GIS is the lack of timber framing.

The interior is very clean and open. Loads are carried by the ply and the timber is just there to hold it together. Wooden boat plan with simplicity. Building space does not have to be enormous with initial prefabbing of panels and parts taking much less. I suppose the minimum for final assembly would be around 18ft by 6ft � a standard carspace would be more than adequate.

The boat is quite movable while under construction so could be worked on in the open and moved under shelter when not building. As the major ply components are constructed on the flat, very little space is taken up until over halfway through the project. This sailing skiff will sail much the same as most boats its size, but there are a few peculiarities that come with the flat bottom.

A lot has changed about how to keep boats flat � and it also extends the ability to sail in stronger winds. As with almost all boats the skiff will sail fastest if sailed level Photo above is just as a gust struck � with little or no heel.

As soon as the boat has achieved any sort of consistent speed it should be brought upright. When the water is very choppy the boat may slam badly if sailed upright. A small amount of heel will smooth its movement considerably. The minimum amount of heel that stops the worst of the slamming should be adopted. Reaching downwind then Flat Flat Flat. Use the Steer for Balance method. The forward and aft buoyancy tanks are designed for use as seats when rowing.

The boat will perform best sailing with crew weight concentrated around the middle thwart. The final difference with many other boats is because there is no jib. This means that the mainsail boom should not be pulled in tighter than 10 degrees. The GIS can be carried on a lightweight trailer. It is lighter than a Laser sailing dinghy enough to be cartopped � but it is bulky so we recommend a trailer.

Enrico in Italy uses this peg board to move the boat up on the roof by himself. It has pegs making it a step by step lift. It is good to build to spec to get the standard lbs 62kg weight. If rowlocks are to be fitted they need to go mm behind the back edge of the centre seat. The oars need to be 9ft long for best efficiency and the plans are free from my website � Click HERE. There is always a bit of luck involved in designing a boat. Here it was that the 9ft oars store neatly in the bottom of the boat.

Or up in the bow. And in open Row and Sail events the Goat holds its own on the rowing legs. Most of the other boats had two rowing places.

So the boat does row well. Even 2 hp will push her along at good speed. Higher horsepowers are not very useful because the sailing dinghy hull is not the right shape to go faster. It will stand up on its stern and start pounding in waves. The Goat Island Skiff is set up to take small horsepowers up to 3 already as the transom is braced by the knees in the corners and the top of the rear seat. He is currently building the new hollow mast design so his boys can take her sailing.

Dear Michael, Hi, from Scotland Island. Today we used our light fast and pretty Goat Island Skiff as a concrete, blue metal and sand barge.

Previous days have seen it used as a timber barge � powered by an electric outboard!. But, once our renovation is a little further down the track, our Goat Island Skiff will once more become light fast and pretty sailing craft. Trust you are well and enjoying life. The standard square hollow wooden mast is in the GIS wooden boat plan. The mast step and partner are altered slightly. Drawings are now available and included with new plan sets.

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