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It's perfect. But because the places waterfowl live are so diverse, we all have different ideas of the perfect mode of transportation to that perfect spot. The gap in preferences from one to the other is miles apart. A shot at the perfect duck boat came out of necessity for me; but was really sparked after I decided to rewire my big boat in February just after the season was over.

Clay Hiett is one of my best friends in the world. He owns a large tract of land just west of Little Rock, Ark. It was 50 degrees and sunny and I sat there playing with the Go Lights, looked up, and got a little sick to my stomach because I was looking at what many would consider a small marine dealership of attempts at something to get me into just about every duck hunting situation.

For the first time, it hit me just how much money I had spent over the last 20 years just trying to get to all those special waterfowl hunting places. I saw a foot long by inch wide boat with a 23hp long-tailed mud motor and all the fixings. It too was a footer, but a slimmer model at inches wide.

She was slow and cumbersome like a long-tailed mud motor, and literally worked you to death trying to turn it in the woods. It wasn't good for much other than flat marsh running and I've used it maybe five times in two years.

Just to my left was a foot by inch boat with a 50 hp outboard; it's a good boat as long as you have at least 24 inches of water. Last but not least, I was sitting in the biggest most expensive of the bunch - a foot by inch model with 3 gun boxes and more lights than a with a 70hp outboard on the back. Again it's a great boat until the timber gets tight and the water gets shallow. I decided to really take my time and try to create the perfect duck boat.

I sat down and thought about every place I had hunted the last few years that demanded a boat. I came up with deep rivers in Arkansas that almost always end up in shallow water tight timber situations. I also encountered very shallow river scenarios like the Snake in the west and the Potomac in the east. Both of these rivers are very shallow and rocky with a fair amount of current.

I would need something that had speed because of the long runs that are a tendency in both of these river situations. I thought about Firewater in South Dakota where you don't run anything but a mud motor.

Because there are no real launches in these areas, keeping the boat light enough to be launched with an ATV was a must. But because that is where I guide, hunter-capacity Aluminum V Bottom Boat Restorations And Ideas Inst is a must. I had to have a boat big enough to carry at least four hunters, a dog, decoys and way more gear than you'd ever need. Then of course there is south Louisiana where the marshes are huge and shallow. Speed is important, but without the ability to run shallow you're done.

I saw no major differences in performance over two days of use on almost identical boats. But, there were some very "user friendly" reasons that made the choice very easy. First and foremost only one model had a reverse available.

Reason number two was a little more particular�SIZE or more aptly, lack thereof. The Pro-Drive's lower unit is much shorter than the others. A lower unit and the prop that sticks out of the boat more than 18 or so inches makes maneuvering in tight quarters almost impossible.

No matter what anybody tells you inch oak trees don't give into any prop, so size is very important for those that hunt in any kind of timber. Finally, the fact that the Pro-Drive was the only model that was NOT belt driven was very appealing to me. Pro-Drive uses gears to drive the prop. For those of you that have spent any time with anything belt driven, you know what I am talking about. Interior design was a big factor too.

Maybe the most dangerous thing I have ever done is run up and down a big river in the dark when the temperatures were below freezing. If you get wet, things are going to go downhill quickly.

I wanted to design a cabin that I could see out of while driving. Having hunters in the sight line and dogs roaming all over the place while under way is not good, yet most boats are not designed with any of these things in mind. At the time, these were made in pretty good volume, so there are still quite a few around.

The question is, is it worth it to restore one? I would say it depends but I lean toward yes. Projects like this can be really fun and educational. If you have a son or daughter that is interested, even better. I want to try and offer a few tips and ideas that can maybe help save some money and have a fun boat in the end.

Hydrostream of Minnesota, made many boats in the 15 to 17' foot range. Very unique designs and very fast. Quality was not the best but they are a great starting point for a project. They will be rotten, almost all the boats in this category were made with wood and a chopper gun was used at some point. So a couple things to think about are, how was the boat made? Coring back then is at best balsa or possibly thin plywood.

Some of the boats are not cored, and that has that one advantage when it comes to the complexity of the restoration and the time it will take. Wood in boats rots over time, it is as simple as that. Even the boat that shines like new, often will be rotten if it is of a certain age.

You will find wood everywhere in older boats. Plan on replacing the floor, stringers and transom at the least. Some hulls were cored, which often is rotten as well. One thing that really sets a beautiful restoration apart is the paint job or factory finish. Most of these old boats are gelcoat from the factory and many from the early days have metal flake, which is kind of cool. But, in a budget restoration, a good way to save money is to not paint the boat.

If you want to paint it by all means do, it can be great and really make your boat look unbelievable but know that it will be very expensive. Even if you are planning on doing it yourself, it will take considerable time and effort and your time is worth money. The solution is to restore the factory finish as best you can.

The point is, if the gelcoat is repairable, then absolutley you will save time and money there. It is a pretty fun and rewarding process detailing it as well. If you can restore the gelcoat instead of painting, it will save you serious time and money. An old Checkmate after a metal flake restore. It was faded and dull before. For the record, I am not a fan of wood in boats.

Todays materials and technology make wood basically obsolete in modern boat building. Almost all the old boats we are talking about here used wood originally. When it comes to restoring, you have to make the call based on your budget and access to materials. Wood can be done with care, sealed properly and have a good result.

We are talking about marine plywood, or woods like baltic birch, common for transoms. The advantage of going with more modern materials, closed cell composites and prefabricated composite panels like Coosa, is that they are stronger and lighter when used correctly.

In a small boat, the cost increase is not significant. The transom and stringers are the key structural components of your hull.

This one is nicely reinforced with knees and gussets. Consult a professional before you proceed with these critical parts. Avoid pour in transoms, as they won't have the integrity a solid transom will. Lightness is critical in small boats, all boats for that matter.

Whatever you choose for the structure, build it as light as you can and when you select other things like seats, hardware and accessories, look at the weight; it all adds up.

On light hulls like these, Lbs could be a significant percentage of the overall weight. Entirely up to you. Once you have repaired your boat and it is solid, you will want to take some time to make sure the hull is true by blueprinting it. This has been covered in an article we did in August.

Over time, your old hull will have been scraped, gouged, warped etc. In short, repair defects, straighten and sharpen strakes, chines and edges.

A lot of boats back then were pulled from molds too soon and had hooked hulls, others just have suffered fatigue over time. Do not bother with speed coats, just make sure it is straight, sharp and clean. Here is our article on blueprinting for more. Your hull has everything to do with how you're boat performs. Take the time to make sure it is true, clean and straight. Like I said before, the seats and other interior parts will probably be rotten and or water logged.

You can rebuild and copy the orignals and have them reupholstered. Or, my suggestion is go to a popular marine supplier and find some nice bucket seats. Overtons is one supplier that always has seats on sale for a couple hundred dollars that look great and come in multiple colors and styles.

For hardware, see if you can refurbish what you have, if not, you may have to get new hardware, or look for some second hand.

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