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Included in our Standard Saltwater Package. A standard feature on all of our trailers. Aluminum Bunk Brackets on both front and rear bunks reduce the chance for rust and deterioration. This allows our trailers to maintain their structural strength making our trailer outlast any steel galvanized brackets. All of our trailer come standard with LED Lights with a sealed wiring harness with an integrated sound that is run the entire length of the trailer.

So your trailer is grounded to the tow vehicle instead of the trailer. With the harness and ground being sealed it prevents corrosion from disrupting the lights ground, so you have working lights every time. Ensure your lights last through the seasons with an AlumaTrek boat trailer. Our entire wiring harness is sealed with 3M marine grade heat-shrink wiring connectors.

Sealing the harness extends the life of our LED lights by preventing the corrosion that causes flickering, dimmed, and inoperative lights. Equipped with a 4-Way Corrosion Protection. Galvanic Action : Zinc corrodes to protect steel.

Radial Tires come standard on every trailer, there are no economic bias ply trailer tires here. Giving you peace of mind when towing knowing you have a quality tire better suited for highway usage. This is because they tow better at higher speeds and last longer than a Bias Ply Tires. They also shed heat better, reducing the risk of blow-outs on long hauls.

If you are interested in more information or would like to discuss your options please contact us and we can discuss your custom build. Please fill out our form or give us a call to talk to one of our representatives. Trailers subjected to these elements typically have significant rust-through and the frame can be very weak. If in doubt, bring it to a trailer shop to have an expert give it the once-over.

It's worth the hassle and expense because it just might save you from a catastrophic failure while towing, or at the very least, save you from wasting money and time on a basket case.

For this article, we refurbished a generic galvanized skiff trailer. The old winch was rusty, the frame was showing some minor signs of surface corrosion, the wooden bunks were rotting, and the lights didn't work consistently. Note: This job will differ with each trailer and its good and bad parts. The size, weight, and type of boat will have a bearing on how easy � or difficult � it is to remove it from the trailer.

In my case, the boat was small and lightweight so I was able to pick a good spot in our yard, tilt the boat nose-high, and secure the boat while I pulled the trailer out from under it. On a previous occasion with a larger and heavier boat, I built a temporary cradle from treated pine to hold the boat while I rerigged the boat and rebuilt the trailer.

With the trailer free of the boat, strip all components from it and make a list of what you'll replace. In addition to taking photos, take measurements of where things like the axle, winch, bunks, or rollers, and any spare tire may go.

For Aluminum Boat Trailer Online 5g this project, I wanted to get the trailer back to just the frame and start from there. I removed the old rotten wooden bunks, the very rusty winch, the lights, and safety chains. The added benefit was that with these components removed, the bare trailer frame was much lighter and easier to handle.

I was able to singlehandedly flip the trailer to check the underside, something that would have been impossible with the wheels, springs, and axle in place. Much of the galvanized coating was in good condition, and the main structural members, I was pleased to note, were all in sound condition.

A thorough wire brushing to remove surface rust and scale was pretty easy, though messy and time-consuming.

I followed this with a good acetone wipe to clean the surface and prepare it for me to spray cold galvanize paint on all the exposed areas.

Some components, especially around the bunk mounts and light brackets, were pretty corroded and required cutting off with an angle grinder. Reassembly of the trailer was straightforward and quick. I measured for the new bunks using the old ones as templates. Then I cut them from treated pine 2-by-6 boards and covered them with new carpet, which I glued with contact cement and stapled with stainless steel staples on the underside.

To reattach bunks and other components, I used Grade 5 galvanized steel bolts and washers and Nylock locking nuts to eliminate rusting and rattling loose. With the new bunks and winch in place, I wired the trailer with new LED lights and wiring kit, taking care to use grommets and other insulating material where the wiring insulation might chafe. After reinstalling the fiberglass fenders with new stainless bolts, we were ready to winch the boat back onto its trailer.

With a couple of helpers to ensure it goes steadily, the process is much easier than it sounds. Many lighting kits come with these squeeze Scotch-Lok type of wiring connectors that don't stand up to regular dunking.

Aluminum Material Galvanized Material. Boat Trailer Spare Tire Carriers. Boat Trailer Winches and Straps. Boat Trailer Winch Posts and Stands. Typically you can mount on these crossmembers using bolts or u bolts.

Each listing for Aluminum Crossmembers will have links to the Bolts and U Bolts section of our website so your can purchase the hardware to complete your install. We have the U Bolts available in stainless steel also to prevent rust permanently. We would recommend using the Stainless Steel U-Bolts as Aluminum and Aluminum Boat Trailer Online Library Stainless Steel will provide the best level of corrosion protection.

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