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Especially in terms of build quality, sound quality, reliability, and serviceability. Not only was this equipment well built, but this equipment was designed to be serviceable. After about , higher end audio would continue to excel, but the typical affordable amplifier, turntable and receivers would continue to fall in quality for years to come.
There were all sorts of configurations of stereo systems from the s going forward. Portable record players, consoles, consolettes, and so on. The finest quality systems separate each component into a individual unit, and these are what we focus on. A typical basic component system consists of a amplifier, turntable, and speakers. A good turntable is the most important choice for a vinyl system. Many vintage tables are better than entry level modern offerings.
Unrestored vintage direct drive turntables will usually need more extensive service. Simple belt drive turntables often are a safer bet, and often need only a new belt. Something that can easily be changed by the owner.
There is a third type, the idler drive. If left unused, these turntables usually require a significant amount of work. Long periods of zero use will usually lead to problems.
Regular use, especially for a automatic turntable is key for long term reliability. Amps and receivers on the other hand are another story. If you are buying a forty year old amplifier or receiver, be sure to check it out completely. Noise produced by moving controls is usually relatively minor, but spontaneous noises, especially loud pops, can be signs that the amp is overdue for restoration. Ideally, it's best to buy a amp or receiver that has been restored or "recapped". Otherwise, you should budget for service that will likely be into the several hundred dollar range.
Even more for very large receivers like the Pioneer SX Vintage speakers on the other hand, can vary quite a bit. A vintage set of Klipsch Heresy speakers for example have "lifetime" woofer surrounds. The crossovers use capacitors of a type that are very reliable, and often test in spec after 40 or 50 years. The most Bose speakers on the other hand, have woofers with a foam material that deteriorates over time. Many speakers from this era and beyond use this same material, and suffer from this issue.
Unfortunately, the Bose has 9 of them per speaker. Plus the electronic crossover will need recapping as well. If buying vintage speakers, be sure to examine the woofer surrounds, and beware of cracks. Listen to them and beware of even the slightest sound difference between the two speakers. Some early model speakers featured level controls. These can be very problematic on some speakers such as the early Acoustic Research speakers, or simply require a cleaning as with many early JBL units.
Maybe you've just found a vintage amp or receiver that has been untouched and untested for many years. We recommend against just plugging it in. You might get lucky, or you might destroy parts that may be irreplaceable. If the amplifier or receiver has been in constant use, and shows no obvious problems, it may in fact provide even more years of service. If it's never been serviced or restored, you should expect to do so sooner or later.
If you encounter symptoms like loud pops, that are unaffected by the volume control, or a missing or distorted channel, you should unplug it and discontinue use. Amplifiers and receivers in particular that have had little or no service, require a good deal of work to bring back the original performance and reliability.
Replacing 30 to 40 parts, to as many as 80 to parts in a large receiver will be a significant cost. Primarily electrolytic capacitors. Generally speaking, a "record player" refers to a self contained unit that can play records with no additional components. Many varied examples have been produced over the years, often in a portable suitcase style form.
While some quality portable units were produced in years past, most modern faux replicas are of very poor quality. Large pieces of furniture known as a console, typically included a turntable, amplifier, tuner and speakers, all in one big box. And we mean big, often over 7 feet long. Some even included a tape machine, either 8-Track, cassette, or even reel to reel.
Some mid century consoles actually matched the quality of component stereo systems. In general however, most all-in-one stereos are a compromise over a component system. In the majority of consoles and portables, the included turntable in these systems use a ceramic phono cartridge, which is damaging to records. For this reason, as well as others, Austin Stereo does not service any of these items.
It is important to note that most modern amplifiers and receivers have no phono input. A cost cutting measure, as a phono input requires a significant number of additional parts. If your amplifier has no phono input, and you wish to use a vintage turntable, you must purchase an external phono preamp.
There are new turntables, such as the Rega Planar 1 Plus, that include a built in phono preamp. A common source of confusion. In fact, the majority of the finest modern turntables are actually belt drive.
In short, there are many fine examples of both. And some poor examples of belt and direct drive turntables. Much like there are good and bad examples of front and rear wheel drive cars. Belt drives turntables will eventually need a new belt, but in almost every case, this is easily replaced. Often, no other service is necessary. Direct drive turntables use electronics to maintain correct speed, and most are either a frequency generator servo, or a quartz lock speed control.
While this technology is typically accurate in terms of regulating platter speed, it adds electronic complexity and potential failure points. Most notably, multiple electrolytic capacitors.
All turntables fall into one of these categories. A manual turntable requires you to move the arm over, and then retrieve the arm when the record ends. Most turntables have a cue lever that aids in lifting the arm. Semi automatics require you to move the arm over, but will automatically return it at the end. Fully automatic turntables can be operated without ever touching the tonearm. These could play up to six records one after the other. Dual was best in class for these. The vast majority of turntables sold today are fully manual.
If you want push button operation, and a well made turntable, there are many fine vintage turntables that offer these options. It might surprise some that this is very much a matter of common sense. The job of a turntable is to rotate the record at a constant speed, and support the stylus with the least possible amount of friction, while holding it as still as possible.
The vibrations in a record groove are only a few microns wide. Much less than a human hair. It should stand to reason that a flimsy lightweight plastic turntable, with sloppy poor quality arm bearings, and a platter that wobbles, would not be the best choice here.
The arm bearings should be near friction-less, and have no "play" or "slop". Platters should not be made of steel or plastic. Glass, such as used by most Rega turntables , is an excellent material for the turntable platter. Movement of the stylus in the record groove generates a small electrical signal.
Most cartridges do have replacement syli, but we recommend avoiding generic replacements. We recommend new cartridges from Ortofon. Skimping here is going to limit the sound of your vinyl system, no matter how big the amp, or how great the speakers.
If while playing a record, the sound becomes "fuzzy" or distorted, it is probably due to a dirty stylus. Never touch the stylus tip with your fingers. Instead, we suggest a stylus cleaning brush. A small artist's paintbrush will do in a pinch. Amplifiers amps take the tiny electrical signal from the turntable, and magnify it many times to move the magnetic coil in a speaker enough to make audible sound.
Amplifiers may Vintage Bookshelf Stereo System Files be in a single box, or may be split into two or more boxes. A "receiver" is simply an amplifier and radio in one box. Separates are usually more expensive, but offer greater performance due to the dedicated power supplies, as well as other optimizations.
Much the same as the finest cameras have separate lenses, flash units, and so on. This is often misunderstood. A modern receiver claiming to be watts per channel today would probably rate at 40 or 50 watts if the old methods were used. A mid century 50 watt per channel receiver is actually quite powerful, and a watt per channel Pioneer receiver from that era is a monster.
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