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Most blacking manufacturers specifically advise against putting any for of primer or undercoat on. The blacking stick far better directly to the steel. That is true for bitumen, a tar varnish system uses an undercoat. You can get it, as Graham says, from traditional boat suppliers, you can also buy red lead and mix it yourself.
As for those worried that babies might suck the paint off, it is a fluorescent orange colour so anyone stripping a primer that colour needs to take precautions anyway, red lead is very common on boats more than 20 years old because it really works. At the "blacking before last" I experimented with BondaPrimer Zinc rather than lead along the water line on one side of the boat only.
When we reblacked last year I would say that the side with the Bondaprimer was in significantly better condition than the other though we did have a permanent mooring then and always moored the same side to the jetty so the wear was not equal.
Last year I used BondaPrimer on the waterline on both sides. There are now two or three areas where we have lost blacking just above the waterline. Is this because the primer degraded the blacking adhesion?
The primer is intact so at least its providing some protection, and it makes it various obvious where I need to repair the blacking. My suspicion is that the blacking came of partly because the surface was too smooth. I used a course sanding disc to clean and "rough up" along parts of the waterline, the blacking is off mostly where I thought "I really ought to be putting a new disc on the grinder"!
Everybody says don't do it, but you always know best, so I tried it, as it happens a couple of times in various ways just to prove them right! But, if you can get a good grey undercoat and it does dry well and you do put thick black straight onto it, it does work - until that is you get in a lock with fierce unprotected paddle gear and then the water simply strips it all off! I've been reliably informed that this company supplies 'proper red lead', together with proper seasoned hardwood.
I was recommended to use Primocon 2 years ago but i am not convinced that the blacking that went over it has lasted that well. I will have it blacked again next week so will be interested in what it is like and what the boatyard says about it.
On our first boat, I decided to prepare the hull and black it myself. Foolishly, I used a zinc oxide primer on one side, before a more experienced boater advised me against it. As it was too much trouble and lack of available time to remove the primer, I blacked over it with 'Intertuf 16'. I allowed 24 hours between coats and by shear luck, the boat was not re-floated for some 72 hours after the final coat of Intertuf.
Later that year, we had the boat out of the water for a total cabin re-paint. All of the blacking on the primed side had disappeared, whereas on the non-primed side it remained intact. I've developed an abiding hatred for 'real' red lead after spending a good chunk of the last odd years repairing old boats painted with the stuff. Yes it's still one of the most effective paints for protecting both steel and wood, particularly where the two come together, but the legacy left for repairers in the future is not good.
This is especially true where 'hot work', cutting and welding, on iron or steel is involved. Something of a paradox then or similar Do I not use it so that any future repairs are less involved, or use it with a view to postponing the need for such repairs? Although Bonda Primer is very good stuff I'm fairly sure it's not designed for underwater applications. I have used International Primocon primer under bitumen blacking. It sticks to the steel better than bitumen i.
I will continue to use this system until I can afford to get the lot gritblasted off and then I will use a twin-pack epoxy. Have you tried Bonda primer? I will use this opportunity to big up the most wonderful Chris Wylie aka Liver Grease, who not only seems to be miraculously still trading, but also lists red lead amongst his products as well as pink creosote. I know that area quite well in Liverpool.
What a great selection of products they stock. Now added to my favourites list Cheers. Doesen't seem to a problem when riveting. Many years ago I used to work with an ex Merchant Navy seaman who spent a lot of time chipping off old lead paint above the waterline and recoating, he said white lead paint was nearly always still intact as opposed to red lead.
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Sign in with Facebook. Sign in with Microsoft. Red Lead Paint. Dave Fleming We need your recipe for homemade red lead. It is THE primer for bare wood. Red Lead Paint Formula. I think hat "white lead" putty fits to this thread, too. What we have instead is a zinc oxide "blanc de zinc" I don't know if the french for it can help..? My recipe was Zinc oxyde mixed with a little of a home made read lead paint similar to dave's, and some more linseed oil till a sticky orange paste was achieved.
All that "by eye" The beauty of it is that it really sticks, does not dry remains quite flexible , and allows to fill up the seams of a dryed out hull: not a drop of water when lauching. When swelling, it gets squeezed out a little and may need some flushing and top coating again above water line.
Before filling up the seams, having primed with red lead before caulking, I would "re-prime" the seams over the caulking and put this putty just after the red lead paint had started hardening. Could I use read lead on untreated barn timbers? Seriously, what's the difference between using it inside my boat and inside my shop?
Its poisonous! Frank E. What do farmers use it for? Is it still poisonous if you cover it with non-lead enamel and don't chew on it? Many years ago in the navy we used to slush down wire rope with something that sure looked like it had white lead in it, with our bare hands. Hmm, that could explain some things. Do you Bottom Paint For Boats Home Depot Group only use red lead on bare wood? Can you prime older bilge areas with traces of original finish intact? Thanks, Danny.
I have always primed topsides of new boats with a thin mixture of red lead and turps followed by standard primer and enamel. I guess it works cuz, I've never had a paint job blister no matter what color the enamel is. I have some limited experience of "red lead".
I always have about 2 inches off water in the bottom of my boat. Inside bottom is painted and this spring I had to paint some areas that had peeled of. Under the paint there was read lead, so I used it again have some left, about 30 years old.. This time I left it uncovered.
Last year the water in the boat went black and dirty, this year the water in the boat stayed clear and the red lead is like new.. This stuff is good, but very poisionous! Use it with care, and keep children and pets away from it. Boat Related The Bilge.
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