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You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Thread starter DJ Start date Jan 30, DJ Guest. This is going to take three threads to cover. Here goes installment 1. There have been quite a few threads on restoring aluminum boats. I thought I'd dig up my old project and share.
Special thanks to member i for helping me get the pictures out of various mediums. Mike Petty Officer 2nd Class. Joined Jan 19, Messages Willyclay Captain.
Joined Sep 8, Messages 3, First class job! Now I know why the price of stainless hardware has jumped. Drowned Rat Captain.
Joined Jan 20, Messages 3, Wow, DJ. That boat looks great! Have you had it on the water yet? What size motor is that? Joined Sep 5, Messages 1, Looks real good!
Joined Apr 14, Messages Looks great. I like those electrics. Any closeups of the carpet? I was thinking of putting something like that in my Starcraft. Did you remove the original hull paint or scuff it and paint over it? QC Supreme Mariner. Joined Mar 22, Messages 22, Awesome summary DJ. BTW, my Lowes is eliminating their 25 and 20 packs of stainless hardware and they're all on clearance, I just picked up a bunch for.
You might check and see if yours is doing the same. It was a guess, and it didn't do much. Probably wouldn't bother if I did it again. And then I coated the whole bottom with some spray-on pickup truck bedliner. It'll provide some abrasion resistance and protection, and actually reduces drag by breaking up surface tension as the water runs along the hull. Think golf balls or shark skin. I really only had the square-footage needs for one sheet, but since all 3 seats are 16" wide, and 50" long, it wouldn't have left me anything long enough for the 50" wide transom boards.
I made a cardboard template from the old transom. I decided to make it 2" taller than the old one, to give more support to the stern end of the boat.
After cutting, I test-fit the seats so I could mark the holes for their new hardware. Didn't want to drill any new holes anywhere if I didn't have to. I primed and painted both sides of all the pieces of wood, even the sides of the seats which will be hidden. Primer is actually designed to hold onto moisture, which is why it holds paint on. But primed and unpainted wood or anything else is actually worse than leaving it bare. I got the transom bolted in through all the same old holes.
Added some stainless fender washers to the middle holes, where the wobbling engine had made the old holes into ovals. I noticed that the old seats had failed along their ends. The long dimensions rested on aluminum thwarts, but the ends were hung from aluminum flanges. Since we mostly step from the dock onto the ends of the seats, having them hung from thin flanges would lead to new failures, so I decided to reinforce the ends from below.
I cut the edge of a pressure-treated 2x6 to the right angle to support the seats, and screwed pieces of it in inside all the thwarts. I just evened it up with the long aluminum flanges. Its not in contact with the floor or the sides of the hull, and it'll be protected by the seats above, so I didn't paint it.
I had to shorten the EPS foam a little because of the new seat supports, but the high density stuff fit right underneath where it used to be. The holes I'd drilled lined right up and the seats went in with their new hardware without any issues.
Each seat also had a pair of brackets to reinforce the rim of the hull and keep the boat from twisting under load. First I soaked them in some rust remover for a couple of days, but that had no effect.
I ended up putting them in a vice and using a sawzall to cut off the screw parts flush with the back of the brackets. Then with a drill press and progressively larger bits, I took out the screw heads from the inside until I could crack off what was left with a large phillips screwdriver. Fortunately, this worked well and I didn't damage any of the brackets.
Back to the Flex Seal. Everywhere a piece of stainless went through wood or through the hull, I wanted to seal it to prevent another round of rust and corrosion welding. You don't want to overdo it on the darker ones especially in a marsh but you do need some.
Reply 3 years ago. Thanks jase! They're around, keep your eye on Craigslist. Even if you spend the other half on paint, plywood, and rivets, you still end up with something better than you could ever buy new. Introduction: Aluminum Boat Restoration. By BennyOne Follow. More by the author:.
About: I'm a professional recycler in Oakland, CA. I make most of my own furniture and like to build everything from houses to chicken coops.
I make surfboards, � More About BennyOne �. This project started when my dad said, "The motor seems a little wobbly. Can you take a look? I'll drag it home where I've got my tools.
I had to fix the breach with some JB Weld. Love that stuff.
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