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Building the launching trolley | The land locked boat yard
Foldable Boat Dinghy Launching Trolley, SUPROD TR | eBay. Saved by ������ ��������. � Build a Bicycle Sidecar: This sidecar was built to transport my 3 year old son on the local cycle paths. It was constructed from a steel angle frame, with a wooden bodywork and plastic screen. It was designed to pivot against the bicycle frame so the cornering and riding w � How to Make a Kayak Cart Out of a Golf Bag Cart. This is so easy, it's embarrassing. Here is how to make your own kayak cart out of an old golf bag cart. Robert Olsen Kayaks. Kayak Cart. Dinghy Trolley: This is my first instructable, after years of browsing! - Hopefully it will be a good one and can help someone else!This project came about when my other half's topper trolley decided to kick the bucket. Me being the man was assigned the task of b � This project came about when my other half's topper trolley decided to kick the bucket. Me being the man was assigned the task of building her a new one! After a look about online I found some awesome fold-in-half trailers, but the price was astonishing! So with a few modifications, I'm now going to build mine own. - this will be a T shape trailer, with a folding lengthwise strut to take up less space, and fit in the car when not in use. Launching trolley is complete. I had garbage picked a piece of clean carpet and used this to cover the pipes and prevent damage to the Apple Pie Tender. I used nylon zip ties to attach the carpet on.� Marine Cradle Shop Inc makes cradles, dollies and trailers for dinghy and boats. My launching Dolly for my Skerry comes from them and I like it. Nautic Expo Lots of products including launching trolleys.

One of my reasons for building a relatively small dinghy was that I was able to get away with not having a road trailer. My plan is keep the boat at a local lake throughout the season, which means only needing to move it twice a year at the most. A launching trolley only needs to be able to take the boat a couple of hundred metres from where it is kept, roll it down the slipway, and launch the boat.

In the simplest designs, these trolleys go right into the water, until the boat just floats off it. The design therefore needs to be simple, corrosion resistant and moderately sturdy. It is possible to scour ebay to try and find a second-hand launching trolley. My first thoughts regarding design were to make a welded frame out of steel. In addition to this, a steel frame would need some additional treatment to protect it from moisture.

After visiting my friend Oschi at the end summer, I got the opportunity to have a look the launching trolley for his dinghy. This is quite a simple construction, based around a T shape made of 40 mm x 40 mm x 2 mm box-section aluminium tubing, with the crossing point held together by riveting aluminium plates to the sides. The trolley is bent up at point of the T to meet the bow of the boat, and to provide a convenient place for a handle. They were very friendly and helpful, and whilst they would only sell me a full 6m length of tubing, they were more than happy to cut it a couple of times for me.

I got it cut into two lengths of 2. These are not any kind of magic numbers measured from the boat, but rather, the absolute limit on what I can fit in the car! I had previously checked out the position of the centre of gravity on the boat thus far , and found that it 2.

With the sheet aluminium needed for the cross of the T, it was a similar story � they only sell it in full sheets of 1 m x 2 m, but I only needed about 0. After explaining that taking a whole sheet would be far too much, the guy pointed me to the back of the warehouse, and said that there were some off-cuts there and I could have a look and see if there was anything that would suit my needs. The first job was to make the bend in the box section at the bow end.

I decided that I would make the last 50 cm of one of the long sections bend up at an angle of 70 degrees, which both leaves it handily above to ground to help with picking it up, but also approximately matches the angle of the bow of the boat. To do this, I cut a v-shaped wedge through the tubing with a hacksaw, leaving the lower face intact.

I cleaned up the sides of the cut with a file, made sure that everything had been cut squarely, and that the bottom of the v was slightly rounded out. I then got some bungee cords and a ratchet strap ready, so that once I bent it I could keep it under some tension, and avoid any flexing that could cause fatigue cracking. I pulled it up smoothly and hooked the bungees on, before setting up the ratchet strap. This meant that I could then lie the whole piece on its side and trace off the shapes needed for the side plates.

On the aluminium sheet, I marked out some shapes to make the side plates at the T and on the bend at the bow end, and cut these out of the sheet aluminium using a fine metal blade in my jigsaw. With the help of a hole punch I marked out where I wanted to drill holes for rivets and bolt-holes. Whilst the bent bow section was still being held in shape with the ratchet strap, I riveted the side plates on to this first, using eight 4 mm rivets on each side plate. This worked out well, and I was pleased with the result.

The plates work well to prevent the bend being straightened out again, but at the same time the angle of the bend cannot get any steeper, as the v is fully closed. Riveting the plates at the crossing point of the T was completed in a similar way, using eight 4 mm rivets per side to attach the plates to the long part of the T.

The cross of the T was set up and drilled for M5 bolts, as these can then be removed for transporting the trailer. One of the biggest problems I struggled with was working out how best to attach the wheels to the trailer. My initial thoughts involved using U-bolts to clamp a round axle to the box section, and putting the wheels onto this. I mentioned this to the guy at the metal merchant, and he showed me some threaded inserts they have for box-section tubing. These are made of a square shaped piece of sturdy plastic, with a metal insert with an M12 inside thread.

This is conveniently the same thread that German wheelbarrow stub-axles seem to use, with a sleeve on them to make an axle diameter of 20 mm. The plastic stoppers are intended to be used in box section and used to make feet, and the thread allows a castor to be screwed into the bottom. This configuration is better, as it means that the stopper is constantly getting pushed into the tubing, but they seem pretty substantial, and the allure of a neat solution was very tempting.

I picked of two up them to try it out. Having though about this for a while, the challenge seems to be to prevent the stoppers getting levered out of the ends of the tubing when there is weight on the trailer. Ideally, they would be longer than they are, but when offering them up to test the fit, they gave the impression that they would fit snugly.

I decided to help this by gluing them into place. This might end up being a triumph of hope over good sense, but I thought it would be worth trying out. Epoxy seems to be one of the few things capable of bonding to aluminium, albeit with the caveat that the aluminium needs to be properly prepared. The stoppers are designed to be a snug fit, and will need to be knocked into the ends with a mallet, but the addition of epoxy should help fill any empty space, leaving less opportunity for movement and them getting levered out.

In any event, it seemed to be worth a try. To prepare the aluminium, I first made sure that the ends were cut squarely, and clean from any metal dust. I then cleaned the insides thoroughly with acetone to remove any grease, oil or dirt that might have built up. As soon as the acetone had evaporated, I coated the outside of the stopper with thickened epoxy, and hammered it into the end of the tube with a rubber mallet. They went in well, but did confirm that they were built to a fine tolerance, and fit snugly.

Any excess epoxy that had been squeezed out of the joint was cleared up with a rag and some acetone, and the whole assembly was left to cure overnight inside, in the warm! I screwed the stub axles into place with the wheels, and found I could gently put my full weight 80 kg on the rear part of the T with no signs of movement or weakness.

The boat weighs significantly less than this, and its weight will be distributed over the whole trailer, so I think they should hold well. The wheels I have chosen are mm diameter wheelbarrow wheels, which go on a 20 mm axle. Considering that they will be rolled about 50 m before being dunked in water, I decided to get some without bearings, as there was no point in paying extra for a bearing which will get flushed free of grease after a few launches. And with that, the main body of the trailer is finished.

A good job to do when they weather is too cold for other things. The only thing that I decided to do to finish this section of work was to make a rudimentary attempt at annealing the aluminium in the bend, to reduce the effects of any work-hardening and fatigue that this might cause. This is of course by no means precise metallurgy, but the aim is to get the metal warm i. Playing the flame on it to keep it at this temperature for 20 minutes or so can only help reduce the problem. You are commenting using your WordPress.

You are commenting using your Google account. You are commenting using your Twitter account. You are commenting using your Facebook account. Notify me of new comments via email. Notify me of new posts via email. Cutting the box-section for the bow bend.

This raw cut with the hacksaw was then cleaned up with a file before bending. The bow end bent up and held in place using bungees. I only held it like this initially, and quickly put a ratchet strap on to really stop it moving.

Cutting the side plates with the jigsaw. The side plates are riveted on to the long section, with the positions of the M5 bolts marked on the plate with a hole punch.

One of the axle plugs for the box-section tubing. Axle plug, glued and knocked into place. Certainly a nice, clean solution if it works. Using the camping cooker for some rudimentary annealing of the bent-up aluminium. The frame of the launching trolley, ready for the addition of a cradle and handle. Share this: Twitter Facebook. Like this: Like Loading Leave a Reply Cancel reply Enter your comment here Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:.

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