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Boat Building: Basic Construction of Resin, Fiberglass, and Cores - myboat310 boatplans
Minimal wood. Hand-laid fiberglass. Sturdy decks. Hatches fit properly and securely.� �Knowing that top quality materials and the latest construction methods were used and a solid transom is a must, seen too many cracked transoms on new boats!� (Robert J., Diamond Bar, CA). �Hand-laid hull, top quality materials.� (James B., Mosinee, WI). �Wood rots so no wood. Factory made fiberglass boats utilize a female mold with laminates made of sprayed resin and chopped glass fibers or, in more expensive boats, hand laid fiberglass and polyester resin. These methods are only suitable for volume production due to the high cost of the mold. There are much better methods that make it practical to produce a single boat using fiberglass materials.� In the photographs in our Fiberglass Boatbuilding Guide, we use the FOAMEE to illustrate the sandwich core construction method, and the FEATHER to illustrate the C-Flex method. These boats were designed to give you an introduction to these methods or as an end in themselves. C-Flex Fiberglass Planking Manual. Advanced Fiberglass Construction Materials. Carbon Fiber: These fibers of graphite provide superb stiffness as well as high tensile and compression strengths and are often used in conjunction with S-glass or other exotics to provide acceptable impact resistance, which is otherwise quite low.� In these cases the structure of the boat is crafted from wood which is then layered with or encapsulated in hand-laid fiberglass and epoxy resin. Sportfishing yachts like a Bayliss 73 foot convertible, and high-end cruisers like Vicem yachts, are built with these methods. Although many modern boatbuilders eschew the use of wood, on high-end custom yachts like this Jarrett Bay, methods like cold molding are often considered superior to more modern techniques.

If mold is of plaster, wood, or new fiberglass, apply soft wax Wax 2 and buff with soft towel. Then spray or brush with PVA parting compound and allow to dry. If mold material is glass, metal, ceramic, or well-cured fiberglass, apply three coats of hard wax, carnauba type, buffing between each coat.

If gelcoat is to be brushed on, allow the first coat to cure and then apply second coat to make sure there are no light spots. If gelcoat is to be sprayed on with a gelcoat gun, spray up to a thickness of.

When gelcoat has cured long enough that your fingernail cannot easily scrape it free test at edge of mold where damage will not show on part then proceed with next step. Brush catalyzed resin over the cured gelcoat and then apply the mat. Work with the roller, adding more resin where necessary until all white areas in the mat fibers have disappeared and all air bubbles have escaped. A mohair roller is ideal for rolling in the resin, and a ribbed plastic or aluminum roller assists greatly in popping any remaining bubbles.

Avoid leaving excess resin standing in puddles. Resin-rich areas weaken the part. Where rollers will not reach, brushes must be used. When this step is complete, clean all your tools in acetone. Allow skin coat to cure before next step. For a 12 ft. For a 14 ft. Apply each layer as in step 3, but it will not be necessary to wait for curing between these layers. Be sure to shake all acetone out of brushes and rollers before applying resin.

Acetone drips can result in uncured spots in the lay-up. On a larger lay-up, it can be trimmed with a saw or diamond blade. The cure may take from two hours to overnight, depending upon turnover desired, temperature, catalyzation, and nature of the part. If laid up in a female mold, longer cure will affect shrinkage and easier parting. In the case of the male mold, the part comes off more easily before it shrinks appreciably.

If the part is subject to warping, a longer cure may be necessary. In any case, when the part is removed, it should be supported in its desired shape until fully cured.

First, examine the trim edge all the way around the mold and make sure there is no resin bridging the line between the mold and the part. Sand this edge where necessary. Then wooden or plastic wedges can be pushed into the edges to start the separation. Continue separation by pulling and flexing. In some cases, it is necessary to drill a small hole in the mold and apply air or water pressure. Trim edges and back of part may need to be sanded and coated with surfacing resin or interior gelcoat.

Good day, John! I try to do a blog at least once a week. So, if you have any topics you would love to see, please let me know and I will get working on it! Thank you for reading! You are commenting using your WordPress. You are commenting using your Google account. You are commenting using your Twitter account. You are commenting using your Facebook account. Notify me of new comments via email. Notify me of new posts via email. Search Search for:. CURE The cure may take from two hours to overnight, depending upon turnover desired, temperature, catalyzation, and nature of the part.

Insufficient hardener added, or hardener not mixed well enough. In general, it is best to use about twice as much Hand Laid Fiberglass Boat Construction Design hardener in gelcoat as in lay-up resin at the same room temperature, since the gelcoat goes on thinner than a mat lay-up.

Gelcoat has not cured long enough before mat lay-up. Acetone from tools drips onto gelcoat or into skin lay-up. Share this: Twitter Facebook LinkedIn. Like this: Like Loading Leave a Reply Cancel reply Enter your comment here Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:. Email required Address never made public. Name required. Add your thoughts here Email Required Name Required Website.

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With out there the technique, The timber vessel skeleton have been meticulously grown drawn with a amateur builder in fbierglass.

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