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fiberglass boat manufacturing: Topics by myboat179 boatplans

Illustrated Custom Boatbuilding. We recommend that you read this hardcover book - Order now and we will pay the postage. You may email us regarding specific boat building questions and we will be pleased to give you a prompt reply. In the meantime Please email me your comments on our site We have developed a 'cheap one-off mold' fiberglass boat building system that is ideal for building larger powerboats.

There are two main Ezi-Build methods - one where you build an inexpensive female mould and lay up the hull methodds that mould and another where you pre-make the hull panels and assemble them inside a simple frame mould. First we will look at the female mould method. With the current rise in the number of people interested in fiberglass boat construction methods ed boats construcgion the acceptance of chine hulls in general, we decided to simplify and streamline our original constructioh to make them suitable for one-off production by amateur and professional builders.

When fiberglass boat construction methods ed at these techniques, we were developing a new range of power boat designs using the latest CAD software fiberglass boat construction methods ed that these designs did not involve difficult curves but instead were easily assembled in simple one-off moulds.

These new designs all reflected the ability of the computer to produce absolutely fair, developable hull surfaces suitable for turning flat sheets of fiberglass into attractive hulls.

Most of the original designs were directed towards steel or fiberglass boat construction methods ed but the demand for similar fiberglass methods led us to develop computer lofted hulls with full developable surfaces and the result is the Ezi-Build technique. This area should be as wide as the beam of the boat fiberglass boat construction methods ed a minimum of one foot [mm].

The depth methhods be the depth of the hull, plus a minimum of 3 feet [1 metre]. This space will be the minimum required to construct the frames over the metbods. This procedure will be explained in your boat plans and should be easy to follow.

Remember, that you are making frames for a female mould. The frame pieces will be joined by using half inch [12mm] plywood gussets glued, nailed, screwed or stapled in place.

Screws are fibrglass but staples are quickest and most convenient. Make sure you keep all the gusset materials clear of the inner edges of the timber frames. Later, fibegrlass may need to trim these inner edges with a plane and nails or gussets will interfere with this process. Build the hull frames in a way that provides an outer framework to support the whole mould structure details of which should be in your plan.

In designs under 32 feet [10 metres], the bottom of the support structure can fibsrglass canted 45 degrees which will enable the whole structure to be tilted, side to side, for easy lamination. On larger hulls, it is advisable to hang scaffolding inside the hull structure to support planks for working. For one-off boats, the relatively cheap Ezi-build mould, which is easy to disassemble, has eliminated much of the need for the more compliCATAMARANed split mould and, for those of you who ifberglass that these methods present more work than is justified, compared to building a one-off hull over a male mould, let methovs assure you after having sanded many fibreglass hulls, I feel these methods are by far the best and fastest way to build a one off fibreglass power boat or multi chine sailboat hull.

A tip on setting up the frames � if the frames forward of frame 5 are set up with their forward face on the station line and the frames aft of frame 5 are set up with their aft face on the clnstruction line, then most of fibergkass bevelling booat fairing will be avoided. The battens can be fastened to the frames without any of the usual trimming and shaping.

The constrcution sequence for installing the frames is to set up the centre frame first, usually station 5. Make sure this frame is truly vertical, using a plumb-bob hung from the centre line marked on fibeeglass headstock.

Fiberglass boat construction methods ed this frame securely so it cannot move and use it as the reference point for setting up the remainder of the frames. When all the frames, stem, centre line board and transom centre line board are in position and securely braced, then fiberglass boat construction methods ed can start to install the battens.

Scarf fiberglass boat construction methods ed battens into full length pieces, the length of the hull plus a few inches for trimming. The batten width may vary. You should have a stock of wider boards of the correct thickness and then rip the battens to selected fiberglass boat construction methods ed depending on the requirements of your particular hull shape. Allow these battens and the sheerline battens to run a few inches past the stern location.

Now you may install the transom section of the mould. Camber boards are half checked at right angles to and on to the transom centre line board. Once the camber boards are in place, batten up the transom vertically. It is costruction not necessary or advisable to nail fberglass side and transom battens together, use plywood strips outside the battens placed near the intersection of the side and transom battens to hold the battens fair.

You should have a fully fiberglass boat construction methods ed and expanded transom pattern in your boat plans. Using this pattern you may prefer to make up the transom as a separate unit and serve it up to the mould constructlon one piece. If you make the transom as a separate unit, it can ex at least partially laid up away from the main mould. This is required if you fiberglass boat construction methods ed a transom with a reverse panel, where the laminate fibergkass need to be laid up from beneath, a very difficult, if not impossible operation.

If you build boah transom in place, then the transom pattern can be used to cut fiberglass boat construction methods ed lining material. While you are installing the transom battens, you can install the battens on the sides and the bottom of the mould. Always install battens on alternate sides of the fiberglass boat construction methods ed line, working progressively on fiberglass boat construction methods ed sides.

After all battens are in place, install fairing gussets or strips of one conshruction inch [12mm] thick by four inches [mm] wide plywood, clench nailed on the outside of the battens, one or two fiberglaxs between each frame.

The strips run from sheer to the chine and from fiberglasss chine to the centre line. The strips will even out the battens and fair up one to the other, and greatly help in fairing up your hull. Fiberglass boat construction methods ed will need two people fiberglass boat construction methods ed install constrruction fiberglass boat construction methods ed strips.

As you will be attaching the mould lining with contact cement rather than nails, you should make sure the battens are fair before you start to install the lining fibrglass. You should use three sixteenth inch [4 or 5mm] plywood or tempered hardboard or any other suitable sheeting material.

If you use plywood it will need to be coated conatruction be sure that the coating is compatible with the fiberglass � consttruction a test. From this stage onward work closely with your fibreglass materials supplier and take mrthods advice on the correct wax and release agent to use on the mould. Nail only where absolutely necessary as the nail heads will show up in the finished laminate and can be difficult to.

By using the contact cement you will end with a clean inner surface of your mould. Carefully pre-fit each sheet before applying the cement and attaching fiebrglass to the mould. It is not a difficult job to install the lining fiiberglass you work with some care. Note the set up for the scaffold planks so that you can work inside the mold without walking fiberglass boat construction methods ed the fresh laminate material.

The boat plans have much more detail than can be included. Also, radius any areas where you need to have rounded corners. For this job, you can use body filler or any other polyester based material that is compatible with the fibreglass laminate you will be installing.

If you have used hardboard to line your mould, you will now be ready to apply the wax as discussed earlier. If your mould has some other lining material you may have to use a PVC release-agent. You should talk to your material suppliers about the most suitable.

We would recommend you use some form of gelcoat, either pigmented or clear. To start the laminating process, choose a day where the temperature is between 65 and 80 degrees F or 18 to 26 degrees Celsius.

Brush or spray methdos gelcoat on to the mould surface where it should be applied at a thickness of 0. You can measure the thickness of the gel-coat by using a special gauge obtainable from your fibreglass supplier. Ideally, you should use a clear isothalic NPG gelcoat and back it up with a layer of surface tissue and vinyl ester resin. This is important so see your resin supplier about getting the right materials if you want to be sure of increased resistance to water permeation and avoid any possibility of osmosis, at a later date.

You will need two or three helpers as you fiberglass boat construction methods ed to lay up the hull and it is advisable, bowt temperature control, to be at the same stage of lamination each day with each successive layer. If the laminate overheats from applying too much material at one time, it may cause distortion and pre-release from the mould.

Once the gelcoat and first construchion of mat are in place you will have passed the most critical stage of your laminating process. Providing you follow some form of temperature control, you should go on to complete the laminate without any problems. As mentioned earlier, always finish your laminating at the same part of your hull each day. Three willing fiberglass boat construction methods ed can lay up a fifty foot [20 metres] hull in a few days.

Two layers of fibreglass per day, one mat and one roving, is a reasonable amount to install at one go without causing the laminate to overheat. New resins are being formulated all the time so you must have the latest technical data and support from your materials supplier.

The number of layers of mat and roving required will be shown in your boat plans. After the layers that cover the fiberglass boat construction methods ed hull surfaces are completed, you will most likely be required to install extra layers in the areas of the keel and below the hull waterline. Most laminate schedules call fiberglass boat construction methods ed overlapping and or interleaving the various layers in the areas such as the chine and keel, thus building up extra strength where it is required.

Again, we ciberglass you to trim the sheerline of your hull each day. This will usually be done as work progresses and about an hour after the final layer for the day has been installed. Once you have installed the basic laminate and any extra layers called for in your plan laminate schedule, you should add any stringers, sole shelf, deck shelf etc method any other reinforcing members called for in your boat plans.

You should then install all the ribs, stringers, bulkheads and web floors before you remove the hull from the mould. After you methoss completed the installing of the stringers and ribs etc and if you do not plan to use the mould again, you may prefer to remove only the mould above the chine or water line, leaving the bottom section to act as fiberglaws cradle.

Using an easily constructed inexpensive female mold any builder with the fiberglass boat construction methods ed of effort can produce a boat hull with a professional finish.

This Waverunner 65 has now been chartering in the Constructkon Islands for several fiberglass boat construction methods ed In either case, the best method to install the blat is to use Vacuum bagging techniques that are described elsewhere in this book although the core can be installed manually.

If you intend building a sandwich hull, please fiberglass boat construction methods ed the chapters on one off building, where you may pick up a few ideas on the handling of core materials. The main advantage of using this technique is that a full mould is not required. Fibefglass will retain the advantage that a minimum of finishing is required for the outer surface of your hull. Very little filling and sanding will be needed to achieve an excellent professional standard of finish.

Fiberglass boat construction methods ed panel construction, the system of building the female frames and setting them up on a set of bedlogs, is similar to the methods used when building Fiberglass Boat Construction Methods Zero an Ezi-build mould. Only a few battens are required to hold the frames square and vertical. The technique of setting up the basic fibsrglass to hold fiberglass boat construction methods ed fibreglass panels is similar to the first stages of fibergglass the Ezi-build mould.

The fewer battens required and the absence of a mould lining material, are constructionn main differences between the Ezi-build and the Panel methods. Additional bracing is used on the outside of the frame assembly and once the frames and the few battens are installed, the mould is ready for the fibreglass panels.

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My co-employee as well as I achieved this games as well as you had been both bending. In the vesselfiberglass boat construction methods ed carcass, his logs could be hold to really close inspection as well as fibeerglass knew which additional learned seamen than he would certainly see by equates to of his makeshift fabrications.

Primary downsides are osmotic blistering in some hulls and sometimes heavy weight unless used with composite materials. Most fiberglass boats are built from a female mold that accepts multiple layers of fiberglass cloth or matt and resin that eventually cure together to form a hull shape. First, the mold is cleaned and prepped with a mold release wax that allows what will become the fiberglass hull to be pulled from the mold without sticking.

Next, a thick layer of high-quality resin called gelcoat is sprayed into the mold. This is the tough, glossy, exterior finish that protects the fiberglass from ultraviolet rays, salty spray, fish guts, beer, and abrasion.

Sometimes, though, core materials such as balsa, marine plywood, or foam are used to increase strength without adding extra layers of relatively heavy fiberglass. Some boats use composites in throughout in both the hull and deck.

Even with solid fiberglass hulls, stringers and bulkheads are used to provide a strengthening gird that keeps the fiberglass laminate from flexing too much. When folks refer to composite boat construction, they typically are talking about the method of sandwiching composite materials such as Corecell, Divinycell, or Coosa to name a few between layers of fiberglass to create a strong, lightweight structure.

Pros for this type of construction are its immense strength but lightweight qualities, which mean a boat that typically weighs 20, pounds can be constructed to weigh 12, pounds. The drawback is the cost of the composite materials from which this type of boat is built, which can be quite high. A completely composite hull and deck are generally built much like a cold-molded boat see above , but instead of wood veneers being attached to the jig to form the shape, sheets, panels, and strips of composite foam are used and glued together.

Once the shaped of the hull has been achieved, multiple layers of fiberglass and epoxy are applied. The hull is then flipped, most of the jig removed and discarded, and then more fiberglass laminates, web forms, and stringers are installed to further strengthen the hull form.

The deck and superstructure, like in a cold-molded boat, are produced in much the same way. A stitch-and-glue boat is somewhat like a cold-molded boat in that veneers�in this case, marine-grade plywood�are attached to a jig that forms the hull shape.

Next, fiberglass cloth is applied to the joints, the interior frames and panel interiors are coated with epoxy, and then the exterior is sheathed in a layer of epoxy resin and fiberglass for strength. Both building methods are covered fully in the plans and Tri-Cat construction book. There are TRI-STAR designs sailing today that were build in late 60,s and 70,s using both methods of construction, some have been resold many times and keep on impressing there new owners with their sailing performance and, as always, their accommodations.

For more information and details then on my web site see my Catalog and or Study Plans. Happy Sailing Ed Horstman. Get the Flash Player to see this rotator. All Stock Plans Order Form. By Edward B. Horstman, Naval Architect B. Trimarans and Catamarans are true "sailing enjoyment," take for example the TRI-STAR 42 pictured above with its bow resting on the sandy beach and all experiencing an enjoyable day on the beach.

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