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Marine Devlin stitch and glue boat building no Tracker Yachting, sailing, boating Projects, design, construction. Any number of construction methods will produce a beautiful boat. But for the backyard builder with limited experience and devlin stitch and glue boat building no tight budget, the choice is not so complicated. Traditional plank-on-frame and cold-molded construction require complicated lofting and building molds-to say nothing of expensive tooling and lots of time.

Stitch-and-glue construction, on the other hand, can produce the same results with a substantial savings in time and money. The process is quicker, easier, uses fewer parts, and produces a boat that is much easier to maintain-without the building molds and with only the simplest lofting.

Sam Devlin has elevated stitch-and-glue boatbuilding to an artform, and his graceful designs have attracted the attention of backyard builders across the country. Here is all you need to know to build the boat of your dreams, whether it's a 7-foot dinghy or a foot power cruiser.

Devlin's Boatbuilding: How to Build Any Boat the Stitch-and-Glue Way shares the wisdom of his 16 years of experience designing, building, and helping others build his fleet of small sail- and powerboats.

It's all here, from choosing a design and setting up shop to painting the finished hull and launching. There is also a gallery of Devlin's designs and a detailed appendix listing sources for tools and other materials. Rating: 4. Reply Toggle Dropdown Quote. You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum You cannot attach files in this forum You cannot download files in this forum.

Projects, design, construction. The laminated wood boatbuilder A step-by-step guide for the backyard builder - Miller Hub [,�. Boatbuilding Manual - Robert M. Inflatable boats, boats, devlin stitch and glue boat building no. Boatbuilding with Aluminum - Stephen F. Pollard [, PDF]. Reference Material.

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I can't say that I am convinced of either wood or foam but here are the areas where either fibreglass and epoxy coated plywood or foam has the upper hand as I understand it after all that reading Price: Plywood Ease of build: Plywood this is a biggie for me as a first time builder: I can build it exactly the way the designer had in mind if I use plywood Ease of maintenance: Foam Core provided your build quality is good and this is not easily achieved for a first timer Weight: Maybe foam but probably not a big difference on a 17 foot boat Stiffness: Foam but probably marginal too Toughness on impact: Plywood After writing that list I think I am leaning towards plywood Ole.

Deagle, you can build a plywood boat that will last for years if you do it right in the beginning. The general idea is to isolate the wood from water, particularly fresh water. You can do a creditable job of making that happen with the WEST wood epoxy saturation technique and subsequent paint. It is not an absolute but it can and does yield a structure that will resist rot, soaking, and weight gain for longer than you are likely to keep the boat.

It is not hard to do and adds only a moderate amount of initial cost. I would save more money, study resin infusion then go with foam. I guess the other thing is, do you plan to go on and build lots of boats? If you plan to make a career of boat building, then its worth learning foam and infusion eventually , as that is far more suited to commercial production techniques. If this is your first boat, perhaps starting with plywood is the way to go.

Also, since you live in a cold climate, a trimaran is a fairly wet, cold way to go. I think it would be quite difficult to get a composite panel to be versatile enough to be left on a mooring for season after season. It would be fine if you wanted to spend a lot of money building a boat that you planned to mollycoddle, but it is fussy to try and work out all the reinforcements you would want in the takes-care-of-herself version.

The hull shell would not be lighter than a ply panel hull of equal durability and you might have trouble finding core that is thin enough for the application. Composite panels in the interior might be put to better use. If you seriously want to build one that can live on a mooring, I'd use Meranti marine BS ply.

I'd coat the panels with a very hard epoxy resin, let it kick off for a day, and then drape with 10oz woven cloth that has a very fine weave wetted out with ordinary laminating epoxy, Or perhaps two drops of 6 oz deck glass that is even flatter and easier to completely fill.

You can actually get the glass off the boat without marring the plywood if you do this. I'd run a drape of 4 oz stuff on the inside on the hulls as well. This can be squeegeed over that same, hard, neat epoxy seal with bubble filled laminating epoxy. Wrap inner over edges and lap an inch, then fit hardwood cap piece over all edges. Hull to deck joint is cap piece to cap piece, which is then wrapped in glass tape.

Boats get up to all kinds of mischief on a mooring. Better would be to plan on 12 days in and 2 days out for the summer. The W looks like a fine little boat that wouldn't find industrial strength hulls objectionable.

Cutwaters should have at least 40 oz of glass built up one way or another for mooring duty. Chafe happens. What does the designer list for bare hull weight? And does the designer have any ideas as far as rigging a mooring bridle? Not all boats take to a mooring. Some cannot be made to sit quietly no matter what you do. There is no benefit to use foam in this manner on this size boat. If you do not seal your core well from moisture intrusion, be it plywood or foam, the structure will fall apart eventually.

Foam will eventually rot, mold and decompose it if gets saturated with water, just as much as wood. You still have to seal the foam from the moisture as much as plywood, there is no benefit in terms of durability to use foam core over plywood. Durably comes from construction method and the quality of build. Both have to be well sealed and well maintained to preclude moisture intrusion into either core material.

That said, plywood is usually far less expensive to build, easier to work with and can weigh less that foam cored fiberglass. Plywood contributes to the primary structure, while foam has very little structural properties. Because of this you will need much more fiberglass on the outside to make it the equivalent strength, adding costs and extra work, as well as weight. Unless you are planning on using costly carbon fabrics and vacuum bagged or epoxy infusion construction process, the much simpler plywood and fiberglass will weight much less and cost much less.

For example, in a similar size hull, in sea kayaks, production hand laid up fiberglass over foam sandwich hull, vacuum bagged and hand finished, for 17 ft single sea kayak, will weight about 45 to 60 lbs depending on the Stitch And Glue Boat Building Techniques Canada accessories, hatches, seat style, etc as compared to an equivalent hand built marine ply stitch and glue with a single layer of fiberglass and epoxy hand laid up, no vac bagging , and several coats of clear finish for UV protection, will weight in at about 30 to 35 lbs, similarly equipped.

The only way you will get lighter than about 30 lbs for a 17 ft sea kayak hull is to go to exotic and costly materials and construction materials. Unless of course you go to skin on frame, using no fiberglass, it will weight about 25 lbs. But this method of construction has certain limitations on hull shape and it limits interior volume because of the frame, and durability can be a problem where moisture gets trapped between the skin and the wood frame.

For what you are building, I would go conventional stitch and glue fiberglass over plywood. It will be much more forgiving, a more common way to go, it will take far less tools and special tooling, cost less, weigh less, and come together much faster than using foam core. There is no benefit to using foam core on such a small amateur built project.

It would be a mistake to use anything except plywood and fiberglass. Petros , Sep 24, The seeming preference for plywood over proper read PVC sandwich construction on the forum continues to puzzle me, you have a clean, seamless construction that is virtually free of framing in some cases, opposed to something that is all joins and framework, it is just a no-brainer, except the foam sandwich one-off is more difficult to execute.

Mr Efficiency , Sep 24, The problem with foam is cost. Plywood makes a great boat at much lower cost. You must log in or sign up to reply here. Show Ignored Content. Similar Threads. Should I install cleats,handrail,cushion rest before deck and hull stick together? Replies: 2 Views: 1, J3 Aug 20, Should I coat bulkheads with epoxy?

Replies: 5 Views: Remove the Fasteners. Round Seams. Glass the Outside of the Hull. Laminate Keel Tape and Fill Coats. Wire Deck Seams. Wire the Stern Deck. Wire Deck Recess Plate. Position and Tape the Deck. Glue Deck Seams. Fillet Stems and Saturate Inside of the Hull.

Glass Inside of Hull. Glue Deck On. Glass Deck. Cockpit Coaming. Install Seat. Mount Foot Pedals. Cutting Hatches. Still have questions? No problem. Be sure to check out our Frequently Asked Questions Page and don't hesitate to call us:. West Coast Paddler has great step by step, photographic tutorials on building three of our boats:.

Wayne Reinart's photo journal of the Taiga Canoe building process:. Start Unpack and check the parts list. Read over the manual thoroughly before you begin construction. Let the epoxy cure overnight.

Watch video on gluing panels. Place the temporary frames in position. Wire on panels, one at a time, working from the bottom up. Watch video of wiring the keel. Edge glue all seams. Watch video on gluing. Glass the outside of the hull. Watch video on glassing the outside of the hull. Temporarily place on hull to cure overnight. Watch a video on wiring the deck.

Watch a video on gluing down the deck. Watch a video on glassing the deck. Watch a video on gluing cockpit coamings. Touring Kayaks. Boats for Large Paddlers. Women's Kayaks. Kid's Kayaks. Rolling Kayaks. Surf Kayaks. Rowing Skiff. SUP Kit. Kayak Hull Gear. Travel Accessorie s. Safety Accessories.

Comfort Boosters. Boat Building Supplies. SUP Accessories. Wherry Accessories. Canoe Accessories. Protecting Your Boat. Closeout Specials. Kit Construction Process. Frequently Asked Questions. Shop and Compare. Hard Chine vs Multi Chine. Customer Feedback. Boat Building Classes. Magazine Articles. Paddle to Seattle. Pygmy Expeditions.

Pygmy Boat Builders. About Pygmy. Online Catalog. Stitch and Glue Construction Simple Construction: Stitch and Glue Never before have boats of this complexity been so simply and quickly built. Finishing Your Hull Stitch And Glue Boat Building Videos On Once you've completed your Pygmy, you can use it 2 to 4 weeks before varnishing or painting.

Construction Time The time necessary to build each Pygmy kit varies, but on average our kits take aproximately hours to construct. Step-by-Step Construction Videos Click the title below to watch the video. A new window will open up with the video shown in YouTube: 1. Introduction 2. Preface 3. Align and Glue Panels 4.

Reinforce Bow Deck Panels 5. Drill Holes 6. Measure and Mark Keel Seam 7. Wire Keel Seam 8. Tighten and Align Center Butt Seams 9. Drill and Wire on the Side Panels Tighten All the Wires Insert the Bow and Stern End Frames Hot Melt Glue Temp Frames Glue Inside Keel Seam Align and Glue Outside Seams Remove the Fasteners Round Seams Glass the Outside of the Hull Laminate Keel Tape and Fill Coats Wire Deck Seams Wire the Stern Deck Wire Deck Recess Plate Position and Tape the Deck Glue Deck Seams

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