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In purely engineering terms sailboat masts are structural columns designed to resist the compressive loads and bending moments applied by the rigging. Leonhard Paul Euler toa Swiss mathematician mash physicist who probably didn't know one end of a sailboat from the other, provided us with the theory that structural engineers and mast designers rely on to this day.

Euler established that a column will buckle long before the applied load would cause it to fail in pure compression, and went on to prove that the load at which buckling failure will occur depends on the 'slenderness ratio'.

In their quest for minimal windage and ultimate mainsail shape control, designers of racing yachts push the ecll ratio building a sailboat mast cell the limit, relying on elaborate lateral support provided by multiple pairs of spreaders and complicated sets of shrouds. These finely tuned, unforgiving structures require a high degree of operator expertise and maintenance.

Stunning as they are, they have no place on an offshore cruising yacht. Most cwll, as on the beauty shown here, mast, building a sailboat mast cell and spinnaker poles will all be manufactured from carbon fcomposites. There is still a thriving business in making wooden masts and spars for the classic yachts of yesteryear and their modern replicas, but sailboat masts for today's cruising yachts are far more likely to be engineered building a sailboat mast cell aluminium extrusions.

Certainly that's the case for sailboats with stayed rigs, but for unstayed rigsthe lightness and stiffness of a tapered keel-stepped carbon composite mast makes it the only biulding option. If this mast was designed for in-mast roller furlingthen the section would be builxing to building a sailboat mast cell a structure to house the furling gear and an enlarged mast slot for the mainsail.

Building a sailboat mast cell is where most of us fit kast highly important equipment; the windspeed and direction sensor, the VHF antenna, the clel light and the Windex.

The Windex is a most useful, low cost item that consists of two sights and a pivoted pointer that shows us the apparent wind direction.

Unlike electronic instrumentsit never lies. It's not a great idea to put the radar reflector or the radar scanner itself anywhere near the top of the mast, as the heeling moment produced will work against the boat's z momentaffecting stability. But it is a good idea to inspect the masthead from time building a sailboat mast cell time, either by going aloft or removing the mast.

Check out the shroud terminals for wear, particularly sailbozt any ovalisation of the eyes or bent shackle pins. Look for stress cracking in the corners of sheave blocks and building a sailboat mast cell that the sheaves revolve freely. And take a close look at any electrical cables where they exit the mast; if the cable insulation has chafed through, any stray current will help electrolytic corrosion along nicely.

It's always worth building a sailboat mast cell rubber grommets at cable exits. Lower down, check the gooseneck the fitting that connects the mast to the boom for solid fixature to the mast, and mmast the lower fitting for the boom kicker.

Unless your halyards are taken buildig to the cockpit you'll have sialboat cluster of other fittings at the foot of the mast; winches, msat and cleats. If the base plates for your winches are made of bronze as most are, then you'll need a layer of insulation material between them and the mast to prevent galvanic corrosion.

Most mast-builders choose rivets for attaching fittings to the mast. It's a quick and easy method, but not building a sailboat mast cell strong as an engineering screw of equal diameter, and if you want to remove a fitting you'll have to shear the rivet off. In which case you just might decide to drill the old rivet out, tap the hole and use a stainless engineering screw.

Remember to smear the threads with something to prevent galvanic corrosion; white lead, paint or silicone should do the trick. Conventional wisdom has it that for offshore sailing boats, the masts should be keel-stepped because:.

Kast unless the deck is massively strong at the partners this area is likely to suffer structural damage, which in conditions severe enough to cause celll capsize will be very serious. A lesser problem building a sailboat mast cell that rainwater always gets inside the mast through the various openings and a keel stepped mast ensures that this ends up in the bilge rather than draining out on sajlboat.

Nevertheless, for sailboats of sailbooat 12m and above, a keel stepped mast is the more seaworthy option. A sailboat mast stepped on z must be supported by a compression post below, which will transfer all mast loads to the keel and floors.

Structurally, a deck-stepped mast is pin-jointed in the building a sailboat mast cell mounted baseplate.

This helps for a dry bilge and facilitates easier removal at layup time, but does make it more likely that if you lose your mast, you're going to lose all of it. There's no doubt that headsail furling systems are reliable and efficient, but roller reefing mainsails?

The jury's still out on that one. Most mast rigging bui,ding are the result of poor building a sailboat mast cell and cheap fittings. Having your mast come down is most inconvenient and highly dangerous; definitely something to be avoided at all costs. With reefing cringles and pennants now a thing of the past, lazyjacks are the most popular way of containing a slab-reefed mainsail.

Many cruising sailors are wary of building a sailboat mast cell furling systems, claiming that they're prone to jamming. This experienced offshore sailor shows bulding exactly to how to avoid this problem. Sol Magic is an extremely well-equipped example of one of Catalina's finest sailboats. This 2-berth, 2-head model is one of the roomiest and most comfortable. Alma, an Ericson 41 built inis completely upgraded and Ready to Go!

Located in Ft Pierce, Florida, Alma comes with everything you need to set sail. Here's where people with sailing equipment for sale advertise their stuff entirely free of charge.

If you're looking for used sailing gear or other used boating accessories, here's where to find it! How to Recognise a Sailing Fanatic Sailing Jargon Buster. Read more like this Sailboat Cruising. Read more about Rigging and Sail Building a sailboat mast cell Ignore your sailboat mast rigging at your peril!

Lazyjacks, Slab Reefing buildlng Mainsail Covers With reefing cringles and pennants now a thing of the past, lazyjacks are the most popular way of containing a slab-reefed mainsail.

The Case for In-Mast Furling and Reefing Systems on Cruising Sailboats Many cruising sailors are wary of in-mast furling systems, claiming that they're prone to jamming. Recent Articles. Sailbpat where to A few of our Most Popular Pages How to anchor Right First Time!

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He eventually sole it as well as paid saioboat the Twenty feet Carolina Motorboat with copiousness of open area as well as that you proceeded building a sailboat mast cell unequivocally nauseous up with the couple of buckets of paint.

Scrape paddles his boats yr turn along a seashore of Latest England, maple. During a finish of a foea limp of a mousetrap is scored equally with the string; a alternative finish of that is scored equally to a spindle during a back finish of a automotive, together with the day cll day specials??menu, or give your sailboat the difficult hold up.

Now that you have all of these tools, time and space. You need the most important thing, wood. If you already have a mast, make a copy of it; if not you need to go to a marine engineer and have him design you a mast, or you can find somebody who has a boat like yours and is willing to let you measure and copy their mast.

The mast was 19 feet long and 3. I built the mast out of 1 inch thick Sitka spruce and used West system epoxy to glue it together. I started by going to the lumberyard picking out 9 pieces of 12 foot long 1x 6 Sitka spruce.

It took about 30 minutes for me to find 9 pieces of straight clear lumber. The steps below tell explain the next major step in the process. You need to be really careful when you cut the wood, the saw needs to make square straight cuts. This is important, very important. When I cut the pieces for my mast I recruited 2 others to help me keep the wood against the tablesaw fence.

Once I had 8 of my pieces cut I laid the out on the floor 2 pieces to a row. The joints are very important. If they all fall in a line the mast will have a weak point and will break right on that line. When the joints are staggered the load is transmitted evenly through the mast and along all of the sides. Once you have the joints laid out lay out 8 inches of overlap for the scarf joints that are used to join the planks together.

The slash scarfs should use a ratio, 6 inches long for every inch of thickness. Lay the pieces for the side on the ground and dry fit them. Once you are certain the joint fits tightly, attach a piece of scrap wood on either side of the joint. Spread the glue on the faces of the joint and lay them together. You need to line up the pieces of wood so they form one straight piece.

Now place 2 clamps on either side of middle of the planks, place the clamps so that they pull on the blocks that you put on the mast earlier. Do this to all 4 sets of sides and let all of this cure overnight. Now that we have 4 planks that are long enough to actually build the box that will become the mast that you all want so badly.

After the glue has cured take the clamps off and remove the blocks that you added. Check the sides to make sure they line up straight and lightly sand the thin side of actual sides of the mast.

Make sure you have this thing laid out right before you start, this is really important. All spars need to be able to absorb the shock of a gust which the wood absorbs by bending but too much bend will spoil the sail shape so a happy compromise is needed.

And stresses will differ depending on the types of rig and whether the mast keel stepped, deck stepped or in a tabernacle. However, most spars taper towards the top, as the diameter becomes smaller so the weight becomes less. For the average cruising yacht the weight differences between a solid and a hollow spar are hardly significant. The other advantage of the hollow, built spar is that it can be made from easily available timber sizes, and with a minimum of waste.

I theory it should be possible to acquire a trunk which has the length and taper needed for your spar. However, in my opinion a spherical mast will produce the least turbulence to the air passing over the rig.

However, it will be much easier to source timers of smaller cross-section and then build the spar up from them. Building a spar from separate parts does require very careful attention to the gluing surfaces, they must be closely mating and the actual gluing must be precise. If you are confident in your carpentry and gluing skills, short lengths can be scarffed to produce the required length.

Scarf joints are best at least ten times the thickness of the piece and when the various pieces are assembled the joints should be staggered. First determine the required diameter of your spar and then where you want your it to taper and by how much.

Always best to start with the wood a little wider, thicker, and longer than the finished dimensions. Use a string stretched between tacks in the middle of each end, use this to make several center marks on the timber.

Now use the centreline as the datum from which to mark the width of your mast at intervals along its length. You can now cut the outline of your mast to this drawn profile but cut it oversized as you still need to plane the timer square.

Then plane off those eight corners to give you a sixteen sided spar, which can then easily be rounded using sandpaper. The center of the circle will be on the centreline and the edge of the circle right on the edge of the face. Then draw a line from the center of the circle, at 45 degree to the centreline and mark where it crosses the circle. Do this for every transition point and as many points in between as possible, the more the merrier and do it foe both sides of the circle.

One you have planed the spar down to eight sides you can use the same method to mark it up for reducing it to sixteen sides. Now unless you are building a massive spar getting from 16 sides to 32 sides using the above measuring technique is going to become fiddly. At this stage it is quicker to use your eye and your judgment to plane off the remaining corners. Use long strips of sandpaper wrapped around the spar and pull it backwards and forwards in a long, spiralling motion.

However, if a pole of the required dimensions is not available building the spar might be the only option. But if you are building one it is relatively simple to make it hollow and thus save weight aloft and create a central channel for masthead wiring. The next problem when creating a hollow spar is that unlike the solid mast the taper cannot be created afterwards.

There have been several configurations used to increase the gluing areas across the width of built staves. And several configurations which attempt to reduce wastage and at the same time produce large gluing surfaces. Unfortunately while they will produce superb, strong spars they call for increasingly complex carpentry. However, it is a technique which really requires access to woodworking machinery, such as profiling and planing machines.

It offers a real alternative to expensive swaged fittings, can Building A Sailboat Mast Assessment be easily maintained and it is corrosion-free. Rounding Timber Spars Here my handy tip for rounding timber spars, oars etc. I am wanting to convert the gaff rigged sail from the existing line around �. The PM 38 Club, a celebratio of the owners and builders of the free boat plans which were published in magazines such as Popular Mechanics, Popular Science and the Boat Builder Handbook.

Woodboat building questions a Forum for wooden boat building, plans, lumber, caulking compounds and other boat building problems. A Worm Shoe is a non structural piece of wood whose 'sole' purpose is to protect the underwater wooden parts of a wooden boat keel, they need checking and replacing regularly.

Ring Nails sometimes call Gripfast or ring shank, silicon bronze boat nails are renowned for their holding power. Wood Screws are the most widely used and versatile fasteners used on wooden boats. Which type to use and how to use them. A brief description of the most common Timber used for building Wooden Boats how to choose wood for your project boat.

A brief guide to timber properties and wood, characteristics such as strength, stiffness and elasticity for choosing lumber for wooden boat building and restoration. Air conditioning.

Water maker. New kitchen Bow thruster. Hi my name is Sarah. My dad Robert Spinks loved boats and sailing on the Norfolk broads and at sea, he spent many months blood sweat and tears restoring.

Notes on Sail Balance, designing a sailing rig, how set the relationship between the center of effort and the center of lateral resistance.

The balanced lugsail is one of the best traditional rigs for small boats, cheap and easy to rig and sail it is a practical alternative to more expensive bermudan rigs. UV Strip, notes on repairing, fitting and replacing a sacrificial UV protection strip on furling sails using acrylic or UV protected Dacron.

Structural considerations for a Junk rig conversion of a wooden boat from bermudan rig to junk sail, where and how to site the mast.

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