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32 Build Your Own Boat ideas | build your own boat, boat, boat plans Lowe was founded in to build high value aluminum boats and canoes to fit a family's boating needs. Since then, Lowe has created generations of family memories through great experiences on the water and has developed a reputation for building high quality, yet affordable aluminum boats and pontoons to suit almost any need. Whether you use your boat for recreational or commercial purposes, we can help you choose the options that are right for your. Click here to see full list Flat Bottom Flat Bottom Flat Bottom Flat Bottom Flat Bottom Flat Bottom Flat Bottom L Flat Bottom Flat Bottom .
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Livewell Options. Side Consoles. Center Consoles. In other words, the boat's framework becomes the forming jig and stays in the boat; you make it and pay for it only once. In either case, end results are much the same and with comparable boat quality. Using a frame substructure for setting up your hull has several advantages for the do-it-yourselfer typically working alone.

First the frame substructure makes it easy to assure hull accuracy that is so important to ultimate performance in a powerboat. Second, the framework makes it possible to build from "off-the-shelf" materials and shapes available anywhere for lower costs and easier material purchasing. Finally, the framework makes it easier to form hull members in place and during weld-up since clamps and other devices can be readily used most anywhere as required, acting as extra pairs of "helping hands" in the process.

Factory production boatbuilders often use specialized forming equipment not always available to amateurs, or use forming services that might be provided by metal suppliers when quantity requirements are high. Conversely, a design for the do-it-yourself builder would more likely specify internal longitudinal stiffeners i. Either method gets the job done but the latter is easier and cheaper for most building their own boats.

First, a disclaimer. But in reality few do-it-yourselfers want to pay the price for the service. But steel is considerably heavier than aluminum, so boats designed for steel are usually designed for greater displacement.

Thus, if the boat is built from aluminum, it won't be nearly as heavy and may therefore float higher in the water. The consequences for a semi- or full-planing powerboat might be so much the better since the lighter aluminum boat will need less power and fuel. But in converting slower displacement-type powerboats from steel to aluminum, you might need to add ballast into such a boat done in aluminum to bring it back down to its original lines.

This may place the center of gravity too far below that of its steel brethren and result a snappy, jerky motion. So instead, you may want to place some of the added weight higher up. But again, best advice is to consult the boat's designer.

Aluminum is not as strong as steel so some compensations must be made if using it in place of steel. Without getting too technical, with aluminum used for shell plating e. Put another way, to get the same strength as steel in an aluminum hull, it needs to be approximately half the weight of steel. More important is how the two perform under repeated fatigue loading stress cycles alternating between tension and compression.

Tests show that for a similar number of cycles, steel stays above its yield strength threshold. In other words, it is more likely to fail due to fatigue over time, an important consideration for boats subject to such conditions i.

The point is that if you decide to adapt a steel design to aluminum, you'll need to increase scantlings i. But by how much? Converting from steel to aluminum is fairly straight-forward mainly because the members used are much the same in configuration and the methods of design and construction are similar.

And while there are standards-making organizations e. After all, we're talking relatively small boats here, and as we'll see, the sizes, types, and thicknesses of members readily available and suitable put some practical limits on what can be used to frame up and plate a metal boat in the first place.

Consider plating thickness. On the steel boat, this is more often based on the practical minimum necessary to ward off corrosion over time, provide decent welds, and a thickness adequate to minimize unsightly deformation. Thus 10GA. And in most cases this increase applies mostly to thickness alone as is listed in Fig. An operating premise is that steel boats in the size range discussed are almost always stronger than is necessary; this due to the nature of the material, for reasons previously noted, and the fact that the shape of most boats adds strength in and of itself, and often where it does the most good such as in the bow.

Thus there is some latitude in the conversion process - we're not talking rocket science here. So using the example, 10GA. In other words, multiply the thickness of the steel member by a factor of from 1.

Tip: Start with 1. That's basically all there is to it. In the above and referring to Fig. These members are common in steel boats rather than using formed or extruded members such as angles, channels, tee's, etc.

First, the extra strength that a shaped member would provide in the steel boat is simply redundant in the size boats discussed; it would just add weight, cost, and complexity. Second, shaped members add to the difficulties of inspection, maintenance, and corrosion protection in the steel boat; for example, the ability to see and coat the underside flanges is difficult, especially when such members are small.

However, in the aluminum boat in Fig. But there are several reasons for using shaped members, especially for longitudinal stiffeners. First, such members are stronger. Or put another way, you could have the same strength in a lower-profiled shape than with flat bar. And the added strength in the aluminum boat is a plus.

Another benefit might be more usable interior volume. And because marine aluminum requires no corrosion resistant coating and won't rust, the shaped members don't add to maintenance and inspection difficulties as in the steel boat. Finally, shaped members, especially those of symmetrical section such as tee's and channels, are easier to work. They tend not to be so floppy, and bend more uniformly than flat bar. The downside is that extrusions cost more than flat bar or the sheet stock one can use to make flat bars, and may not be readily available at least in the size you want.

If working from stock plans for an aluminum boat, the designer probably specified certain sizes, types, and alloys of members for framing, etc. But deviations may be possible.

Most designs have some latitude in alternates that can be substituted. For example, angles can be substituted for tee's and vice versa. Channels can be made from split square or rectangular tubing, or even split pipe if somewhat larger than the specified channel.

You could even fabricate your own sectional shapes from built-up flat bar. Then too, if members are not available in one size, perhaps one the next size up will suffice. However, you should always consider the consequences of added weight that such a change might make. Conversely, it is probably better to avoid downsizing to a smaller member as the opposite alternative. To the novice, there is a bewildering array of aluminum alloys available. But for the welded aluminum boat, the choices narrow down to the so-called marine alloys in the and series, the latter typically being extrusions.

Yet even within these series there are still many alternatives. But the most common, readily available, and suitable for welded boat hulls include: H32 H34 H H32 H H

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