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B y the time our dahabiya moored at Daraw, just north of the Aswan Dam, and we stepped down on to the bank, watched by a few idle cows, Boat sailing day queen was tiring of Agatha Christie. If you say you are going sailing up the Nile, everyone � absolutely everyone � cracks a gag about someone getting murdered. The river is only tangentially relevant to the story. As with all Christies, it could be.

Like many a visitor to Egypt before us, we started with the pyramids of Giza. Standing in front of the Great Sphinx, with the pyramids looming behind, it was hard not to agree. Under the burning sun, the monuments, the sky, the sand and the yellow-brown admin buildings all seem to have been made from the same substance, as if the architecture were simply dusty air crystallised into solid form. The pyramids were already an ancient attraction when the Romans arrived.

Imagine Cleopatra and Caesar on tour in an open-topped barge, like a burnished throne, in 48BC. In recent years Egypt has fallen off the British tourist map, perhaps understandably. Boat sailing day queen to Sharm el-Sheikh from the UK have been banned sincewhen a Russian charter flight was blown up on its way to St Petersburg.

After two days in the city we boat sailing day queen the sleeper train to Luxor. As on boat sailing day queen sleeper trains, sleep was impossible.

Strung-out at six in the morning, we left our bags at the Al-Moudira, a jewel-like hotel with cool courtyards and enormous, high-ceilinged bedrooms. You could easily spend a week here, lounging by the pool and drinking cold lager, but tombs and temples beckoned. Boat sailing day queen a few hundred years of merry pyramid-building the pharaohs twigged that creating the largest monuments on Earth might not be the best way to disguise where they kept all their treasure.

There is simply too much to take in. They are as overwhelming as Stonehenge, our closest equivalent, is underwhelming. At last we joined the boat that would be our home for the next four nights. Most cruises start in Esna, where the river opens out after a long and tedious boat sailing day queen of locks, and head south to Aswan, where the Nile is dammed.

Broadly speaking, there are two types of Nile cruises: the standard variety, in which you are ferried in a kind of floating block of flats and disgorged en masse at the big sites down the river, and the quieter sort, where you rent either a cabin or, ideally, all of a traditional sailing boat, or dahabiya. Our own dahabiya slept 12, with six double cabins at the back of the boat, each with an en suite bathroom.

Jane and the crew slept in the canopied wooden deck above, about the size of a tennis court. Four times a day, including high tea, a stream of immaculate dishes were boat sailing day queen up from the kitchen of the chef, Mahmoud: omelettes and boat sailing day queen and fresh fruit for breakfast, then fresh bread, soups, baba ganoush, fattoush salads, grilled fish, goulash, tomatoes, piles of piquant chicken legs.

On the third morning he was replaced by another chef, confusingly boat sailing day queen called Mahmoud, whose food was still excellent but not quite the marvel of his predecessor.

Perhaps too relaxed, we conjured jeopardy out of. It is said there are no crocodiles left south of the Aswan dam but the cattle and donkeys grazing by the waterside looked like tempting prey. We read about bilharziathe water-borne parasite apparently lying in wait to boat sailing day queen Nile swimmers, and gingerly stayed out of the river until Jane insisted that it was improper not to swim when it was 40 degrees. She was right.

On the penultimate evening, a dust storm swept up the river and, for the boat sailing day queen time, we ate indoors. The next morning we emerged to find the whole boat covered in a film of fine sand, like the surface of Mars, and the otherwise sleepy river whipped into little white peaks by the wind. There was hardly any wifi, nor much else to do bar read and talk. Four nights of nothing, like this, felt indulgent in a world of rushed weekend mini-breaks and frantic guidebook-chasing.

The journey was the whole point. Calls to prayer drifted from unseen minarets on both sides of the river. In time the image of the landscape, that strip of lush green between water and desert, bores into you. My friend John, who in recent years has quietly got into birding, whooped at pied kingfishers, hoopoes and purple herons.

Ancient Egyptians revered birds, too: among the wall-to-wall hieroglyphs on the tombs we saw ducks, ibis, falcons, vultures and owls. Like Christie, they knew the power of a good story. The Observer Egypt holidays. Sailing the Nile in style. Plain sailing � a dahabiya on the Nile. Photograph: Alamy. Ed Cumming. Sun 29 Apr Reuse this content.

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