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Discussion in ' Boat Design ' started by FarawayOct 28, Log in or Sign up. Boat Design Net. I'm looking to buy an aluminum utility boat, about 14 feet, just to put a 9. They can 14 foot flat bottom jon boat trailer program one, but what is the appeal jons have with the boat buying public vs the V bottoms? I've found jons to be unstable on the water; more likely to 14 foot flat bottom jon boat trailer program over if your weight shifts to one side.

I'm no fisherman, so that's not a factor. I like the looks of the Lowewhich is modified V, 14 feet long and 67 inch beam. The day you buy it, it's worth drops to about half that or less so I want to be sure I buy what I'll be happy.

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance. FarawayOct 28, Stu; How fast do you want to go? The 9. At that speed the Jon is a rough rider. The vee layout is somewhat kinder to the passengers. I think Jons were first contrived 14 foot flat bottom jon boat trailer program a sheet metal guy who could rivet and weld. It is likely that he may not have had much knowledge of boat design.

Well, the Jon mortar box turned out to be a fairly practical boat for 14 foot flat bottom jon boat trailer program, trash collecters, cargo haulers and other functions. The Jon has superior inerior space for a given length.

They need not be tippy if they have sufficient beam at the chines. Problem is that there are a lot of them that are pretty skinny. Here in Florida I see 14 foot flat bottom jon boat trailer program like dimensions. I figure that those are the vehicles of potential organ donors.

The 14 footers seem to have various dimensions on the bottom from 40" upward. Forty inch chine beam will indeed seem kind of tender. There is an engineering component involved in making the bottom wider. Simply stated there will need to be more reinforcement, frames, and perhaps thicker skin.

Thus heavier. I would much prefer a vee bottom with rounded or beveled chines. But similar rules apply when one considers stability. Wider is better but there are trade offs. Today I passed by a place that collects and sells used boats.

Sometimes taking them in for consignment sales. The guy has been in business for years. He used to have 30 to 40 boats in the lot. 14 foot flat bottom jon boat trailer program there were probably 75 or. If that is any indication of what the market is doing, you can probably find some pretty good deals.

Two grand for a 14 footer may be about right for a new one but I'll bet I can find a decent used one for less than Trouble with used ones is that most of them include a motor that jacks the price and you do not want that 30, 40, 50, HP beast.

In addition it will soon be winter in Kentucky and your bargaining power will increase in inverse proportion to the temperature. Great for floating rivers.

A lot better than canoes in many cases. Ever get in a canoe and walk towards one end? Stability quickly disappears. A square boat is much more stable. The first boat I build was jon style canoe: 16' x 2' bottom, 28" max beam.

Worked awsome for what it was designed for: small, shallow rivers and creaks and small calm lakes. I could jump out for a swim in the middle of a lake and get back in over the side more easily than I could in a 17'x48" aluminum canoe, and even easier I could climb in over the bow or stern with no trouble at all.

It also handled shallow rivers better than the canoe. But with any chop it pound, but all I had to do 14 Foot Flat Bottom Jon Boat Trailer Use was heel it over a little. Makes it easier to paddle anyway, but not so good with a motor. Flat bottom and square ends is as stable as a basic monohull gets when stitting still, the pointy end is for splitting larger waves.

How shallow are you going to go? It can be cool to go places that most wouldn't consider taking a boat, but if you go more normal places a v bottom will ride better.

Flat bottom is more stable if you want to walk around, especially at the bow. Most of these boats are used for fishing and hunting, and they are perfect for that in their intended environment. Thanks fellows, you've both told me exactly what I was hoping to hear!

I've never been a fan of flat bottom jons. I do now recall the last time I rode in one on plane in a slight chop--it beat us to death. I swear, I was 2 inches shorter when I got off that boat. I love the idea that the jon boat was an invention of a guy with some sheet metal and a welder. I have some old photos of my dad and grand dad fishing from an old hand made wooden jon boat out on Lake Cumberland KY with just 2 oars back about Today, I looked at a hybrid sort of thing.

IT was an aluminum 14 foot boat made by Alumacraft that is a cross between a flat bottom, square nosed jon, and a modified v boat. The nose is still squared off at the top but forms a shallow V that runs about half way to the transom. Same nice wide 40 inch wide bottom, though slightly sloaped in to the keel, and still 70 inch beam. It was much heavier than other jons I've looked at too, weighing in around pounds. That might be a good weight for my Johnson 9.

I'd like the name of the place you mentioned Messabout, that sells used boats. I love a good road trip with a purpose. To go pick up a boat is an excellent reason to hit the road for a few days if I can get a deal.

But, you're right, most boats are with motor, and most motors on used boats should be dropped overboard in deep water. That's what I did with my very first boat's motor. I was about 19 and Id bought a 12 foot alum. The old 10 horse Merc. I launched the boat in the Kentucky River and of course, the motor fired right up and off we went downstream for about 10 miles. That was the last voyage of the prehistoric Merc.

I busted both oars on the motor cover and it still wouldn't restart. Yes, there was some beer consumption involved. I unscrewed the motor clamps, unhooked the fuel line and dropped the damned old motor overboard where I'm sure it settled down into 6 feet or so of mud muck at the bottom of the river.

Too bad they went broke. They made great outboards. I'm rambling. I'm. I know for a stone fact Cumberland Lake is foot deep, we lost a barge out of tow one night when I was working for Ingram Barge years ago and we found it, come daylight, because the bow void compartment had had its hatch dogged down and thus hadn't filled with water; the barge was resting with its stern on 14 foot flat bottom jon boat trailer program bottom and the bow was sticking up out of the water about a foot and half or two foot.

You lose a smidgin on the top end in glassy water but the tradeoff is that you don;' shake the change out of yer pocket in the mildest of chop. Be careful about making blanket statements concerning jon boats I'm running a foot mod-V flat-bottom jon boat with a inch bottom and she is extremely stable. She runs and can get up on plane in less than a foot of water has a pocket tunneland can run in six inches of water once on plane.

I, with my lbs. Because of her length, narrow hull and heavy build, she'll handle chop without beating you to death. She doesn't really start to pound until you get into three-footers, and even then it's not bad. Power is a Merc 4-stroke, can still get on plane with a dozen people aboard and a custom prop. You must log in or sign up to reply. Show Ignored Content. Similar 14 foot flat bottom jon boat trailer program. Replies: 5 Views: DCockey Sep 28, Replies: 9 Views: 1,

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Trailer included. Both boat and motor are in excellent conditions. The boat has custume 10" gunnel addition. Motor is a pull start short shaft tiller. For more information please call me Dale Local pick up only.

Make Triton Trailers. Adjustable bunks accommodate a range of boats and the winch stand allows for easy loading.

Triton Jon Boat trailer is packed with features for years of enjoyment and worry-free use. Features may include: Light weight yet strong welded aluminum frame Leaf spring axle with galvanized beam Bearing lube grease system for long bearing life Molded wire harness with no splice to fail Sealed waterproof lights Adjustable carpeted 5 bunks Adjustable bow post.

Make Alumacraft. Model Jon Alumacraft riveted jon boats are the choice when you want a boat thats easier to load by hand yet will hold up to years of hard use. You get a proven hull design reinforced with wider and stronger ribs crafted with more than 60 years of riveted boat building experience.

Choose from 14 models of smooth handling modified-V hull jons or traditional flat bottom versions. Add a fast new outboard and let her rip.

Make Lowe. Model Jon L Roller trailers provide easy loading and launching in all conditions and water levels. For boaters who launch alone or those who face challenging ramp and tidal conditions, a roller model will get you loaded or launched in no time.

Aluminum provides natural corrosion resistance with less weight than a comparable steel frame, saving you fuel and valuable payload. Hot-dipped galvanized steel provides exceptional strength and durability, resisting corrosion in challenging marine conditions, including salt.

Single axle trailers are suited for boats up to about 20 feet in length. Your Load Rite dealer will help you select the appropriate configuration for your trailer. These same requirements will determine how many of the axles will need brakes, however, it is recommended that all axles be equipped with a braking system is possible.

There are two brake systems available: electric and hydraulic. The electric system is simple, cheaper and easy to maintain. It also allows the ability to brake the trailer independently, and before, the towing vehicle. However, electric brake systems tend to experience problems when used in a marine environment especially saltwater.

This will lead to increases maintenance costs and potential failure. Hydraulic brake systems are best suited for larger trailer but do take some experience to use properly and without losing control of trailer.

Other drawbacks include increased cost and whether or not they are even available on smaller trailers. It supplies the strength needed to hold the weight of your boat and the stability needed to tow your unit safely. There are currently three options available when it comes to construction material: painted steel, galvanized steel and aluminum. Painted steel are excellent basic trailers and will hold up well when maintained properly and used in fresh water.

Although strong, a painted steel trailer will corrode quickly is exposed to salt or brackish water so this should be avoided. Galvanized steel is as strong as painted steel and, thanks to the exterior zinc coating, far more resistant to corrosion than painted steel. Even with this protection galvanized steel will eventually rust, however, with proper care these trailers can be used in both salt and freshwater environments.

Aluminum is not only resistant to corrosion it is also lighter in weight than either of the other options. This makes it an excellent choice for saltwater and allows transportation by a wider range of vehicles. While corrosion will eventually occur, it is more easily addressed without permanent damage. Like the frame material hardware must be strong enough to withstand the tortures of use while still being protected from corrosion. Unfortunately, aluminum is not a viable option when it comes to hardware.

While it may be lighter and more resistant to corrosion aluminum is not a strong as steel, especially when placed under the stress normal for axles, u-bolts etc. For this reason, most hardware is either steel or galvanized steel. If using your trailer in saltwater it is important to remember that mixing unlike metals will increase corrosion. You may need to attach zincs to the trailer to provide additional protections. If you are concerned about having long lasting, dependable lighting it is important you select models that include two features � DOT approved and submersible.

The first is required for safe, and legal, operation on roadways. The second is necessary to avoid costly replacement costs every time you launch or retrieve your trailer and forget to unplug the lights. The trend today is towards LED lighting, which increases durability and life expectancy.

However, it is important to remember that LED lights will cost more and are more difficult to replace when they eventually burn out. Regardless of which lighting option you select, even if submersible and LED equipped, it is recommended that you shut off and unplug your trailer lights before submerging the trailer.

Even lights that are submergible are not truly waterproof and when the hot bulbs hit the cold water it is likely damage will occur. This answer to this question depends less on your boat than on where you boat, specifically where you launch or retrieve your boat.

Although rollers are more common on larger boats, and certainly make their launch or recovery easier, their biggest advantage is when you encounter poorly designed ramps. On steep, well maintained ramps with enough depth close to shore, bunks work fine. However, if using ramps that are shallow, in poor condition or involve tides, rollers will make the entire process much easier.

Even if you have a lightweight boat, such as a jon boat, being able to roll onto the trailer will allow you to avoid backing vehicle too far down the ramp. Plus, the articulating roller assemblies allow boat to be driven on to the trailer with less resistance. Most are easily repositioned by loosening a few bolts, although the number of assemblies in a roller system will make this a more time-consuming operation. Bunkers should be inspected frequently for rot as the underlying material is usually wood.

Rollers need to be lubricated and inspected as well. Rollers can crack and will need to be replaced. Very few small trailers, such as those used with jon boats under 18 ft. They can be added to almost any trailer as either an option or by replacing the bunks with aftermarket rollers. The tongue, jackstand and winch are three items that are routinely overlooked in terms of their importance.

Even veteran boaters tend to forget how important these three features are and fail to upgrade when doing so would be the difference between night and day when trailering. On many small boats the only option when it comes to the trailer tongue is coupling ball size.

Even this is worth considering as it is not difficult to change the coupling unit as it simply bolts on. Why would you change it? Instead of carrying two hitches, or changing the ball, simply change the coupler and you can use one ball for all your trailers.

One of the most useful options on a tongue, if available, is the swing feature. When pinned in place the tongue allows normal towing, when unpinned the tongue can be swung out of the way to allow storage in a small space. All but the smallest trailer needs a jackstand, otherwise you will be unable to lift it onto the hitch when loaded. However, not all jackstands are created equal. It is highly recommended that you select a jackstand the includes a wheel at the base, rather than a flat plate, and the ability to be swung up and out of the way.

The first option makes it much easier to make minor adjustments by hand when trailering or positioning your trailer. The second will allow for safer towing as it lessens the chances your trailer will catch on potholes, pavement edges etc. Like the tongue a jackstand can be easily replaced or added if you trailer does not already have one.

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