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Solid Wood Worktops Buying Guide - HcSupplies Help & Ideas

Our ready-made and custom-made kitchen worktops are tested against everyday kitchen challenges like liquids, oil, food and scratches � so you know they will. You can choose from different styles: quartz, acrylic, solid wood and.

The kitchen is often called the heart of the home - and for wooden kitchen top oil density reason. A place to pour your love and ambition into to dinners and tasty treats. This makes the choice of kitchen worktops especially important. The worktop area is a focal point of the room, which means you need to consider its texture, look and feel.

Do you want the clean, cold look of a quartz worktop? Or do you prefer the warm homeliness of a wood grain pattern? The kitchen worktop is also a working pil. Do you need the worktop to be heat resistant, so that it can handle hot pots and pans? Should it be scratch or crack resistant? Are you willing to polish and wooden kitchen top oil density the worktop to keep it looking fresh?

Here are a few tips on how to choose the right kitchen worktop or kitchen countertops for your home. Stone such as quartz makes for strong and resilient kitchen worktops. The heavy, durable material will give a sleek, palatial feel to your kitchen. They are also very practical, being highly scratch resistant and easy to clean.

Quartz worktops do have some drawbacks to consider densify. Choosing wooden worktops is a great way to add natural beauty to your kitchen. And they are highly practical. Wood is naturally resistant to germs and bacteria, and a solid piece of wood is very resistant to cracking and breaking. With good care, a solid wood worktop can last a lifetime.

It is also likely to become ttop beautiful with age. One thing to consider with a solid wood or thick veneer worktop is wooden kitchen top oil density. Wooden worktops need to have water and stains cleaned immediately to avoid damage.

Wood is not very scratch resistant, but scratches can easily be sanded. The worktop should also be oiled at regular intervals to avoid the wood drying. Worktops made from plastic materials are practical, flexible and affordable. Both acrylic and laminate worktops are completely waterproof and easy to clean. You can get laminate worktops that mimic the look and feel of wood or stone without the high price tag.

Acrylic also has the same pattern throughout the entire piece, making it easy to polish out any scratches. Plastic worktops are oiil very durable. Ceramic is an elegant material that makes for a great worktop. However, ceramic is prone to scratches that cannot easily be buffed. Ceramic also has a risk of cracking if you drop something heavy on the worktop. Additionally, wooden kitchen top oil density cannot be repaired, so you need ool replace the tile to get rid of any scratches or cracks.

Skip to product list Products Kitchens Kitchen worktops. We can help you plan your dream kitchen from the comfort of your own home. Click here to book a planning appointment.

Laminate worktops Thick veneer worktops Quartz worktops Worktop accessories Solid wood worktops Ceramic worktops Acrylic worktops. Worktop x2. Worktop x3. Worktop, double-sided wooden kitchen top oil density. Worktop support fitting. Leg 86 cm. Stone worktops: Quartz Stone such as quartz makes for strong and resilient kitchen worktops. Wood worktops: Solid Wood and Thick Veneer Choosing wooden worktops is a great way to add natural beauty to your kitchen.

Plastic worktops: Acrylic and Laminate Worktops made from plastic materials are practical, flexible and affordable. Ceramic worktops Ceramic is an elegant material that makes for a great worktop.

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Can you advise which of your products I should try please? Thank you. Thank you for coming to Wood Finishes Direct with your question. I can recommend the Osmo Top Oil Natural This protective oil contains a minute amount of white pigments to counteract the darkening you would usually get with a clear oil. It should leave the wood looking as untreated as possible, whilst still offering a moisture repellent and durable finish. Unfortunately sample sizes are not available in the product range but a very close product you could try if you wanted is the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw this has a 5ml sample sachet for a test area and I always recommend a test area first as the wood that you are applying to will impact on the colour and finish that will be achieved.

I have recently brought a Rimforsa kitchen island from IKEA which has a wooden worktop, which I have since found out is bamboo. What are the best products to seal this natural wood and for food preparation. Many thanks. If the worktop does not currently have a finish applied then I would recommend the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin this is an interior wood oil that is ideal for tight grained wood or woods that are naturally high in oil content.

Bamboo is a naturally dense wood that will accept an oil but will have a low uptake, two very thin coats are all that is required and I would recommend a test area first to ensure you like the finish that will be achieved. If you need any further advice we have a great team on hand to answer any questions on or via our contact us page.

We have solid oak kitcheb bench, it has become water damaged around sink area, i managed to sand out the dark marks, but then as soon as i apply the danish oil it clings to the previous parts that were water damaged and looks even worse?

Water stains can penetrate quite deep and you may need to do further sanding to restore the wood. But once you have been able to remove the stain I would strongly recommend a product such as the Osmo Wood Protector to be apply to the bare wood first, this is very moisture repellent protective finish specifically for areas that are exposed to moisture ingress.

I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page. The worktops are in very good condition with no water damage etc.

Once sanded back to bare wood, if you wipe with a damp, not wet, cloth the darkening you get from doing this will show you what any clear product will achieve. Iroko is a very hardwearing tropical hard wood and when sanded you will bring the natural oils to the surface of the wood. I would recommend wiping over the surface with some Methylated Spirits first this will aid absorption of oil treatments and due to the type of wood you are treating there is only one that I would recommend, Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin the thinner oil will penetrate the surface of the wood better.

If you have a read up of that product and feel free to get back to me with any questions you may have.

Always try a test area first. Having looked at lots of useful information on your website I am thinking of using Manns Premier Top Oil or Osmo Extra Thin to renovate my beech worktops.

I will probably apply the oil by brush � will I be able to clean the brushes in water or is white spirit required? The two oils you are looking at are great options for a Beech Worktop. They will require application to bare well prepared wood and as always I recommend a test area to ensure you like the finish that will be achieved. Brush application is ideal and you can remove any excess with a lint free cloth. Then Brushes will require cleaning with some White Spirits first to remove all of the oil and then a good rinse in some warm soapy water.

I think the Holzol worktop oil is the one for us. I know right!! Making a decision on which product to use can be difficult.

And the two top oils that you are considering are both very good. When there are so many products to choose from how do you know which one is right? Well both are available in sample sizes and so this should be your starting point. I know it makes the process a little longer but in the long run testing those products will help to get the desired finish.

To be fair they are very similar in look and finish, I would expect the Osmo to have the slight edge on coverage but the Holzol is quicker drying.

Essentially they both require two thin coats for application. We have moved into a property that had solid dark looking walnut worktops. I have spent the weekend sanding these down quite significantly and the result is a lot lighter and we like this lighter more natural look, but what is our next step.

I have sanded with a 40 grain so presume I now need to do a much finer round but what do we oil with after that will keep this new look that we like? Really would appreciate any advice. Thank you for your question, yes, is the answer sanding to a finer grit.

So depending on how much time you would like to spend on it and how smooth your would like the surface to be, you could sand with a 80 grit next and then finish with a grit. Or going straight to the grit will be fine, this will still give a smooth even finish ready for application of a Hard Wax Oil to protect the wood.

To keep the wood looking and feeling natural but still offer the protection required for a kitchen worktop I would recommend Holzol Worktop Oil this particular oil is a little thinner than some of the others and will work better with a hardwoods such as Walnut and Oak. W9ndering which oil is best for iroko which I am having installed in a couple of weeks. Can you tell me a little more about your project, is it interior or exterior? Decking, flooring, furniture or something else.

And i may be able to narrow down some options for you. If you would like to email me direct you can do his through our contact us page.

Both have the Pros and Cons for sure. If we start with a varnish, this is a surface sealer that is certainly more durable, longer lasting and hard wearing. It sits on the surface of the wood and can be compared to a plastic like finish, however many of the modern varnishes now also give a more natural look and come in a range of sheens.

The downside to varnish is that it is harder to repair or change down the line, scratches are difficult to hide or repair. It can be easier to apply and has a quicker drying time. Oils although still very durable and hard wearing will not last as long as a varnish, they have a far more natural look and feel and many people prefer this and only require two very thin coats applied, so a little goes a long way.

The benefit of having an oil is that it is far easier to maintain and repair over time. So if a scratch or accident marks the oil the you can lightly sand the effected area and re oil, it will blend well and nearly always look as good as new. When it starts to fade you can simply clean the floor and reapply the oil with out the new to strip.

My advice would be to sand back the floor and if you are unsure of which route you want to take, both varnishes and oils are available in sample sizes on our website and it is important to try the products on your Wooden Kitchen Tops South Africa Toy wood as the type, age and condition of the wood will all impact on the finish that will be achieved.

I hope that helps and if you need any further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact page. We have a lovely maple kitchen that was installed in and still looks good overall.

The work surfaces have been oiled occasionally but not recently and are beginning to look a bit grubby in places. We used a Ronseal worktop oil last time. What would you recommend we use this time and what steps should I take to prepare before application? Do I need to sand down the surfaces � there are a few water stains near the sink but the rest is just slightly grimy mixed with old oil I think?

I understand oil sealants are much improved recently. What is the best one for maple? You advice will be much appreciated. Kind regards David. Thank you for your questions. For the best result you can remove all the existing finish by sanding, removing all the previous oil and wiping down with White Spirit once clean and dry the wood is ready for fresh treatment and to start with I would recommend the Osmo Wood Protector this is particularly good for areas exposed to a fair amount of moisture and temperature changes.

It will help prevent damage to the wood. You can then follow this with a top coat of Osmo Top Oil which will make the moisture and stain repellent and is a very durable and hard wearing finish. I do strongly recommend test areas with both products as they can and will darken the wood very slightly and you will need to ensure you like the finish to be achieved. We are buying walnut worktops. How much oil to apply comes down to the type of oil used.

The benefit of these is that they offer exceptional durability, are very easy to apply and maintain, require minimal maintenance and in most cases require just 2 thin coats. As Walnut is a dense hardwood, the top, bottom, sides and ends will only require 2 thin coats of a hard wax oil. When applying its important to work the oil into the surface of the wood grain and wipe off any excess oil with a clean, lint-free cloth. All the brands mentioned are excellent and although they all have their own unique formulations, they all offer excellent protection on kitchen worktops.

For further information about each product, please feel free to contact one of our resident wood experts who are on hand and happy to answer any questions you may have. What application would you recommend? We also have an iroko island unit worktop which I have tried several times to treat with polyeurethane but it get white marks when cleaned with damp cloths and is not hard wearing.

Any best ideas for this surface too Thanks. Are you able to tell me what the current finish is on the table, varnish or oil? Or are you planning to strip back to bare wood? In regards to the Iroko Island, it could be in relation to a high oil content in the Iroko, being a tropical hard wood it has a tight grain and a naturally high oil content and this could be impacting on the polyurethane.

If you are planning to remove the treatment and bring the Iroko back to bare wood I would recommend, firstly wiping over with Barrettine Methylated Spirits to remove the natural oil from the surface. And then you could have a look at the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin this is an extra thin oil suited for use with tropical hard wood such as Iroko. It will absorb better and only two thin coats are required for this.

If you have a look at the products recommended and feel free to get back to me with any questions via our contact us page. Any suggestions please? You could have a look at the Bona Craft Oil which has a couple of paler colours in the range.

Applying a lighter colour on to a darker wood does not always give the desired colour and so I would recommend test area first to ensure that you like the finish to be achieved, the wood that you are applying to will impact on the over all colour to be achieved.

This product does not come in a sample size unfortunately. So for an alternate that does have a sample size you could have a look at Osmo Polyx Oil Tints. There is a white in this range it is quite a subtle white and may be enough to highlight the grain.

Test areas are the key to getting the look you want. I hope this helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. We have had just brand new light oak, full stave worktops fitted to our new kitchen.

The colouring is very important to the whole aesthetic � matching the grey panted cabinet doors and our light oak engineered flooring. So we want to avoid applying any protective oils etc. Do you have any ideas about what might be the best coating we could apply to retain the colour as much as possible.

Many clear products will change the wood very slightly, darkening a little or highlighting the grain and natural tones of the wood. As you are looking to treat a worktop it needs to be a durable finish and so I would recommend the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw. This is a durable and hard wearing product that is moisture and dirt resistant. It is easy to apply and food safe once dry.

It requires two thin coats applied to bare wood and because it has a minute amount of white pigment in it, this counteracts the darkening effect you get with the clear products. There is a sample size available and I would recommend a test area first. I hope that helps and if you have any questions at all please do not hesitate to get in touch. We are having our kitchen redone. Our old wooden worktop was finished with Danish Oil and while this looked good,it is too dark for what we now have in mind.

We would like to keep the wood as blonde as possible. Can you recommend anything colourless and non shiney that will be durable and resilient? Yes I can recommend a product for your worktops. This is a much more durable and hard wearing oil than the Danish oil. It requires just two thin coats for application and because it contains a minute amount of white pigment it will leave the wood looking as unchanged as possible. I would recommend removing the remaining Danish Oil form the wood by wiping down with White Spirit or sanding back.

A test area is always recommended and if you have any further questions I am happy to help. Hi, we have solid walnut worktops that are in need of oiling. The worktop was left a bit streaky. Recently the wortop has become tacky to the touch hence this post! I contacted our kitchen suppler who advised that a product with a hardener would be a good idea and a more permanent treatment.

I was hoping that you might advise on an appropriate product? From reading the other posts Work Top Oil would seem a good option, does this have hardener in the product? How should I prepare the surface as it already has several coats of Danish oil applied? What application method do you find gives the best results?

Thank you for getting in touch. I would recommend removing the Danish Oil first however, as the worktop oil requires very thin application to bare wood, any oil already applied will reduce the saturation levels and impact on how of the work top oil will be absorbed effectively.

Once applied the finish should last for a year minimum but potentially longer depending on use. And then you can simply re apply a fresh coat when you feel the wood needs it. Feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions.

This feels like a daft question, but do I need to sand before I re-apply the oil? If yes, how much sanding is required � i. For re oiling a surface it may not be necessary to sand back although it will benefit from a denib with a Finishing Pad. This will help to improve any finish. It will depend on the condition of the surface.

We do have some very helpful videos on our YouTube Channel with hints and tips for application. Do you know what oil you have on the surface? I will be able to offer a suggestion of an oil should you need to purchase one. The last treatment done over a year ago is a bit sticky in places. Oil soaks into a very thin layer of the the surface of the wood and there will be a point where it accepts no further oil and so any subsequent applications will sit on the surface and be ineffective.

My best advice, although I know it not what you want to do, is to sand back to bare wood and start again with a product such as Manns Premier Top Oil. This is a long lasting oil that dries hard and gives a water repellent protective finish, which should only need a top up coat very two to three years depending on use of the worktop.

Hi, I have wooden kitchen worktops that have been finished with a Swedish wood oil. I did about 6 coats. However, I find that it is staining really easily and marking, red wine, oil etc. Can I just re oil over the top, or do I need to sand first? Oils are designed to soak into the surface of the wood. They normally require 2- 3 coats maximum, but this does depend on the type of oil you are using and I am not familiar with the Swedish Oil that you have used.

The wood will become saturated at some stage and will no longer accept further oil and when this happens the oil sits on the surface of the wood and dries.

This oil will be easily marked or stained as it is unable to protect effectively. Its worth checking on the packaging to see what the recommended number of coats are. If you find that you have over applied, removing the surface coats can be done by wiping down with White Spirit or a light sanding.

Hi I have inherited pine wooden work tops and cupboards tops that were previously treated with a diamond seal varnish that is peeling off. What is the best way to remove the varnish and do I need to take it back to bare wood in preparation for using a top oil. Wish to avoid a pine yellowy finish and looking to slightly darken the colour, I see osmo do a top oil in acacia colour, would this be appropriate on pine wood?

Once back to clean, bare wood you can think about applying the Osmo Top Oil and we have some very helpful videos on our YouTube Channel with hints and tips on the application process. A test area should always be carried out first to ensure that you are getting the colour and finish that you want. It is its first time being treated so has nothing already on the surface, many thanks.

Thank you for your enquiry. The Osmo Top Oil will be ideal for your butchers block. It is food safe liquid repellent and easy to apply and maintain. The clear will darken the wood slightly and highlight the grain of the wood. The Natural will leave the wood looking as untreated as possible. If you take look at this product and feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions. Hi, I have new oak worktops which are pre-oiled.

A couple of splashes of water are already showing. I was told to remove them with steel wool and lemon oil. Two questions: can I just use worktop oil instead of lemon oil?

To prevent further staining, so I use a seal or an oil? Thanks for letting me know! The benefit of having an oiled surface is that it can be patch repaired. Simply sand back the stained area and clean and then re apply some oil, the Worktop oil or the Osmo is likely to be suitable but a test area is always recommended.

You may find some helpful tips on our YouTube Channel. The Linseed Oil will give limited protection and you may be better considering Holzol Worktop Oil , which will be far more durable then the the Linseed Oil. If you wipe the surface with White Spirit to remove the excess Linseed Oil and then carry out a test area with the Holzol, to ensure you like the finish that will be achieved.

You can then maintain this by simply applying a fresh coat when you feel the wood needs it, usually every 1 to 2 years. I am planning to take them all back to wood and would like your recommendation as to what I can use to:. You could look at the Holzol Worktop Oil. It is a natural finish that will be durable and protective. Like any oil it may effected by detergents that are not pH-neutral and this may be where you previous issue has come from.

For cleaning the Osmo Spray Cleaner is a good option and will not damage the finish. If you have a read up of these products and feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions. I have a blackened oak burnt oak kitchen worktop. Do you have a black or very dark oil that would refresh it?

We have a Tinted Oil. Onyx could be suitable for your project. It is a very dark brown. And is available in sample sizes to allow you to do a test area first. It does need to be applied to bare wood, if you have a read up of the product and let me know if you have any further questions. I have some pine worktops, which I am going to burn shou sugih ban style, my experiments give a great finish, but now looking for a suitable top treatment in a super matt finish, any recommendation?

Its not a subject that I know a great deal about, but the usual recommendation for this technique is to finish with Tung Oil. The technique you are using of burning the wood will help to ensure the wood lasts for many years to come and applying this oil every 10 years or so can help to make it last even longer and also make cleaning easier. I would love to see the results of your project, and feel free to share our Facebook Page.

Hi I have a Howden oak work surface and have used the varnish they supply. However, I hate the shiny varnishy finish and have found it difficult to reapply. I use osmo oil on my bannisters and love it. Can I use an oil as opposed to the varnish. If so, what should I do to prepare etc. The Osmo Polyx Oil is suitable for use on a kitchen worktop, it is food safe and durable.

You would need to remove the existing varnish first however, as this will prevent the oil from penetrating. For perfect woods, these can also enhance the grain. In many cases, furniture oil provides a great way to finish the surface of a wooden item. It offers a beautiful sheen, resistance against the elements, and a convenience factor that is second to none.

You should consider the current state of the wood. This is because furniture oils must be able to penetrate into the wood, which they cannot do if some other finish is in the way.

On the other hand, unfinished wood is usually a bad idea. Unless you are talking about a cheap and temporary construction, any wooden furniture should have its surface treated in some way.

You have several options for finishing but oil is probably one of the easiest. You simply rub it into the surface and let it do its work. There are a wide variety of furniture oils on the market. These might include tung oil, Danish oil, linseed oil, teak oil, or Roalman oil. All of these products offer distinct advantages and disadvantages.

Still, you should get similar results from all these products as long as you follow the instructions. Yes, most oils will darken the wood once applied. While it will not change the color of the wood, it will make it a shade darker.

This has the effect of bringing out the grain and making it far more visible. However, the overall darkening effect of an oil-based finish will keep it from gaining too much contrast. Not only does oil darken most wood, but this darkening process also gives you an easy way to know when your wooden furniture needs more oil. Furniture oil is not the same thing as a sealer.

However, it does greatly improve the ability of wood to resist moisture. Because all types of oil will naturally repel water, it will act as a sealer to some extent. In the days before wood sealers and clear coats were invented, oil impregnation served as a useful technique for preserving the life of a wooden object. At the same time, you cannot expect a furniture oil to function as well as a sealer.

Both of these products will penetrate the surface of the wood and provide a waterproof top layer. However, most commercial wood sealers are plastic-based and made of synthetic polymers. This is both a good thing and a bad thing, depending on your perspective.

On the good end, plastic will last a lot longer than oil, which has to be re-applied once or twice a year. On the bad side, plastic is not environmentally friendly at all. Furniture oils tend to be made from natural substances, but this also increases their price somewhat. At first glance, the subject of furniture oils can be kind of confusing. With so many types of oil out there, it is indeed difficult to understand everything.

Tung oil is obtained from the seeds of the Tung tree and was first invented in China where this tree grows. After pressing it from the seeds, ancient herbalists found that this oil would gradually harden on contact with the air. This forms a thick but transparent layer that serves to protect a surface from moisture. Before long, they started using this new substance for umbrellas, ships, and quite a few other things.

When it comes to Danish oil, the subject gets a little more confusing. Sometimes, it is made from tung oil, linseed oil, or other such substances. In its cheaper form, it is basically an artificial substitute for tung oil. Linseed oil, like the other two, is an oil extracted from plant seeds the flax plant, in this case. Like the other two, it also hardens gradually when in contact with air.

As you can see, there are a number of plants that yield oils of this type. These products are still commonly used in the making of various musical instruments but have been phased out of many other applications. This is because the oil is sticky and somewhat hard to use.

Really porous woods may not do well with oil because the wood soaks it all up leaving very little on the surface. Getting an even coat is difficult. Apply the oil gently with a high-quality rag. Lower quality rags can pill and leave those annoying little pieces of fuzz everywhere. Wipe up the excess and make sure to clean your clothes carefully. Allow the proper amount of time to dry before adding a second coat. Be sure to read the instructions thoroughly.

Any oil with a solvent has the potential to be a fire hazard. Most experts recommend submerging the rag into a bucket of water with an airtight lid, but very few people actually do that. You should make sure the cloth is flat and can dry completely.

If you bunch the rag up after using it, escaping fumes turn up the heat and are in danger of combusting. You may find yourself walking into a fire hazard. Oils should never puddle on your wood surface. Options that contain solvents will need more than just water to remove. Oils can be harsh on the skin.

If your product also has a solvent added to help with the application, you may need to wear gloves and eyewear. The biggest safety concern is ventilation. Fumes from the oil or varnish blend can cause severe respiratory issues and danger to your eyes and brain.

Never leave oils around where children or pets can find them. Otherwise, you risk ingesting toxins. Pure oils can be a bigger investment than oil blends.

Some of the products on our list are well within most budgets and can be used again and again. More expensive options include oil and wax blends with ultra-conditioning properties.

If you have large areas, you may be able to save by buying in bulk. Otherwise, you can use a more expensive product on woods such as antiques or delicate finished woods. I would never discourage you from trying to save money, but sometimes you get what you pay for.

You save yourself from spending a lot more on significant repairs. Wood oils can prolong the life of your wood piece and help prevent repairs. Choosing the right option brings out the wonderful grain quality in the surface and helps keep the structure of the wood intact.

A project may dry over time or change shades, but a good quality oil can breathe new life into it. I switched over to Saicos Hardwax Oil. We are a medium sized flooring and furniture maker in Thailand primarily Teak and Oak. Recently made a few indoor chairs for export but am not happy with the finishes reckon our painter used local lacquer and the finishes hide all the natural features of natural look of Teak.

We are currently using Osmo UV wax oil for our wood floor and customers are happy. Would you recommend us going to food grade Osmo Oil or just regular oil as we do make dining tables too. If food safeness is a priority for you then try food-grade Osmo Oil or Tried and True which is also food grade. But there is also Watco Teak designed especially for teak.

Hi, we have just purchased a dining table and buffet made of Tasmanian Oak. Instead of that use some spray conditioner, for example, Trinova Wood Cleaner and Conditioner. It is obvious that bare wood has been exposed to weather at some point possibly for decades. Is there an oil treatment compatible with painting again at a later date?

Yes, tung and linseed oils can be painted. You can use oil-based or latex paints, make sure oil is fully dry before painting. Hi William. What is the best oil option for an old mesquite dining table that will sit outside under a portal? Ive read Tung oil?? Thank you! Cabot is great for outdoor wood. I have no idea what i need! A stamp on the back says Mexico. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. There are oils that work well with all types of wood.

What would you suggest for Oregon to keep warm colour and grain but still enough protection on bed frame. Use Formbys , nice and durable oil for interior use. I am about to oil our outdoor table and side tables. They are under cover but expased to the Queensland heat. What would you recommend? I have a house full of cedar trim and cupboards.

I want to clean the wood and am told I should oil it occasionally to keep it from drying out. Can I use Watco Danish oil on it? I have a lot of it. Should I use something else to clean the wood first? Thanks, Judy. What clear oil would you suggest for a wood carving. I have no idea what wood it is but it will be kept indoors. I have a solid oak desk that has been stained and then had polyurethane put on it.

It is now starting to crack and split between the boards. Do I need to sand off the polyurethane before I treat it? What treatment would you recommend?

Yep, you need to sand down the areas where polyurethane is damaged. But why you want to use oil? You can reapply polyurethane on damaged areas. Hi I have beautiful Tas Oak decking. I used a natural oil that had UV protection. It has turned it all yellow! No more shades of pink or honey. I hate it. I am going to redo it and will never use UV protection again. I want an oil to enhance natural colour.

Any suggestions? Oils tend to give the wood a yellow tint, more or less. For decks, I Wooden Kitchen Shelving Rack Top can recommend , choose the natural color. I suggest you oil a little piece of wood before finishing the entire decking just to make sure you love the color. Can I use oil on previous stained garden furniture � mainly Cuprinol garden furniture stain?

If yes what would you recommend. Yes, stained wood can be oiled. There are several outdoor oils, but I recommend Cabot oil. Hi this is a great guide! The wood is bare. It will probably stay that way. Could I use a very light oiling to these pale areas to restore their color to match the rest of the ceiling?

Would I apply the oil to just the damaged areas or over the entire ceiling? There are several marks from marking pens that need to be removed. I have found someone to help me by lightly sanding the surface and re-oiling it.

What oil do you recommend? I do not want a glossy finish. I think Watco Danish Oil is for you. It has a satin sheen and many walnut tones to choose from. If you are looking for a non-toxic oil that will have a nice natural finish hemp oil works great. Hemp oil cures to a hard finish in about 1 month. You can also make an oil based polish made from 3 parts hemp oil to 1 part beeswax pieces. Just put your mason jar in a pot of water and boil until the wax melts and allow to cool.

In the race to make it cheaper and faster, industrial coating makers have cut back the oil and increased the other ingredients which are toxic.

What is the best oil for red oak flooring? I have new sections and old sections and will be sanding down old sections to bare wood in one room. Can I just apply oil over the old finish to freshen it up and skip the sanding?

Osmo Polys Oil is great for floors. Danish oil is preferred for redwood. So Watco Danish is for you. I have a piece of furniture that I am the fourth generation owner.

We have been told that it is Cherry Wood but not confirmed. The piece is very large. My family always called it the Press. When we were moving it into my home, it took 6 grown men to get it in. My problem is that we burn with wood exclusively and I am seeing some stress to the Press.

There is a finish on the piece, but I have no idea what was used. Also, I assume that I will need to oil both inside and out if possible, correct? Any help you can give me would be great. Definitely, you need some oil for antique furniture. That said, I am still not confident in making a decision and would love your advice.

I have an only wooden floor, hardwood but not sure what kind. It will be sanded down to its natural state. What I am looking for is an oil that will provide some tint, but preferably on the golden yellow side, preferably not dark or reddish. We will be doing this one section at a time, thinking that we will go with the wood pattern around the perimeter first.

From what I gathered from your post, I should use boiled linseed oil, the first listed. As it will not give a darker coloring and is safe applying indoors. As for tint, first, try to apply it on some small inconspicuous area.

I am building an outdoor dining table and will be making the top out of red cedar. What would be the best oil to use for this project, I want to make sure I use something water and UV resistant.

Or would I be better off with a different product all together. I just want to keep the natural look of the cedar without color additives. Oil or sealer would be a good choice but they add a bit of tint to the wood. Instead, try some exterior clear polyurethane such as Helmsman. Urethanes create a protective layer over the wood, unlike oils and sealers which penetrate the wood, but urethanes are clear.

I am looking into turning an old antique english manogany end side table cabinet into a vanity sink. I want to protect the wood from damage when people are washing their hands. What would you suggest for this? Sunnyside oil is well suited for antique wooden pieces, check it out. It depends.

As I understand it, you need a finish for dry wood, so oil is the best option here. Varnishes and polyurethanes are designed for different purposes. From my reading Cosmo top oil seems to be the ticket. Am I getting it? Hi there, I am Old Style Wooden Kitchen Table Oil making hot plates from slices of logs.

Looking for the best finish to apply that will hold up to hot temperatures, a casserole dish coming out of the oven, a pot off the stove- etc. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, D. My dad used to always use lemon oil on our teak furniture.

Any thoughts on this? I have two teak side tables with glass inserts on the top that I have cleaned and am about to sand a bit on the top frame but am debating what to use on it to finish it. Am currently looking at tung oil. Do you have a citrus oil you like to use as a thinner for the tung oil? Lemon oil is a cleaning solution and polish rather than finish in most cases. Hi I have some very old furniture that is starting to crack along the grain lines.

Some of this furniture is bare wood, some has a lacquered finish. A friend of mine suggested I get teak oil and a big syringe, and squirt the teak oil into the cracks weekly over a period of months to bring back deep moisture to the wood. To the best of my knowledge the various pieces are made of European oak, rosewood, mahagony, and elm from China, and mahogany from the Philippines.

Recently sanded old style pine kitchen cupboard had 3 layers of paint Do not want to paint Can you suggest a good oil to finish it please. There are many options available for your situation but I recommend Watco Danish Oil since it has many colors you can choose from to enrich the color of your cupboard. I am purchasing a kitchen island that is perfect for a bathroom vanity. I would like to make the counter top a darker wood dark walnut and the bottom half white, it will have a vessel sink.

If you chose stain you would also need a sealer because stain colors the wood but not waterproofs by itself. Speaking of oils, go for Danish Oil , it got many colors for walnut. Choose Sunnyside. I have a wooden stairway, not sure which kind of wood. Maybe oak. Which oil would you recommend regarding the high foot traffic? Osmo Polyx is an oil specially designed for wooden floors. Try it. Great info!!

I have a patio set made of Acacia wood. Have had it a year. It has had a polyurethane treatment at the factory. It looks dry and I want to maintain it. Is there an oil I can apply without sanding and that has a low odor? You can use linseed oil on the wood, the only downside is it takes a while to dry and will need a few layers. There are other oils out there too such as danish and teak oil as well as tung oil that just needs a light sanding in between coats.

I have a wooden swing I am refinishing made by my father 20 years ago. He used cherry wood. From my research, I thought tung oil would be best for cherry, but boiled Linseed for the cedar. Is this correct? I thought about using oil and then using spar urethane on top. Could I mix the 2 oils?

What would be your recommendation to finish this. What you found from your research should work. Both tung oil and linseed oil are great to use on wood. Spar varnish is a really good finish to use. I would recommend a spar varnish by Minwax or TotalBoat. Any help will be gratefull. You can oil the jarrah hardwood sleepers. I would recommend using an exterior wood oil or decking oil for the best results.

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