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Questions: Plywood boatbuilding
- Duo by Woods Designs 10ft Sail/Row Dinghy (with nesting option). 9' 10" 3 m. 3' 3" 1 m.� - Corsair 11 by myboat070 boatplans [CR11] a sturdy but performant small boat, an ideal first sailboat for one or two people. 10' 9" m. 4' 4" m.� - Challenger 13 by Dudley Dix Plywood Lapstrake Sailing Dinghy. 13' 4 m. 5' 3" m. Sailboats� Sailing Dinghies. Tenderly foot Dinghy. Here's a beautiful foot dinghy or daysailer that slots between our 7'9" Eastport Pram and the 11'7" Passagemaker Dinghy. The Eastport and Passagemaker are "prams," meaning they have flat transoms at the bow as well as at the stern. Kits from $ Plans from $ Eastport Pram. The Eastport Pram, with more than built, is one of the most popular small dinghies in the world.� "Dinghy" is derived from an old Hindi word for a sailing or rowing passenger vessel. In English, a dinghy is a small rowing and sailing boat, often (but not necessarily) serving as a tender to a mother ship. At Chesapeake Light Craft. Sailing Dinghy - How to get an inexpensive sailboat to fit your needs. Dinghies are effective for learning sailing basics, cruising or join a sailing class.� Most of these sailboats were built at home using new methods that allow prefabrication of sailing dinghies from relatively large flat pieces of plywood rather than lots of small pieces of timber. This is how our oz goose sailing dinghy goes together � actually all our plans work this way. Everything is made of the flat and the hull goes together in a short time.

Sailing dinghy repair and assessment of an International Cadet resulted in major dinghy repair and restoration of a rundown Class Dinghy being fixed up for his son. We looked here with the emphasis of whether the sail boat is a keeper as a racer or if it should just be ditched. This would apply to many similar racing boats.

Plywood boats fixed up well have been very competitive in many racing classes. And here are our sailing dinghies if you want to have a look. The hull is in good nick but the deck needs replacing. First thing is to have a look at the class rules to find out what you can get away with.

Check your class website. For the International Cadet the Class Rules are here. For a competitive boat you should use premium materials � gaboon plywood for the decks. Glue and sealing the panels before fitting to the boat � epoxy. Also see my boatbuilding FAQ for info on wet-on-wet epoxy coating to save some labour and use of cordless screwdrivers for holding everything together while the glue sets up.

That is housebuilding and it is a weak method. Plywood joins should never have beams underneath the join unless the timber is very wide. The correct method is to do the join between the beams with a scarf or a butt strap.

Choosing between scarfs and butt straps. Scarfing ply and timber. I read through your FAQs might I say quite interesting and well put together and I have a few questions. Rather than using 2 pt polyurethane you recommened using epoxy with a poly topping 1 is this right?

The coats of epoxy are as thin as you can get them. The problem with the inside is that there is some drips of epoxy that has been left there from a previous attempt to repair the deck as well as some black lines going across the boat and up the sides why I dont know. As far as gluing you just need to hold things together while the epoxy sets up � no need for permanent nails or screws. As far as drips etc on the inside remove them by sanding � random orbit sander is good here � about grit paper � Never use paper more coarse than grit paper for timber if you want the glue or paint to stick properly � be VERY careful not to cut away at the plywood veneers!!!

Also read whether lead metal correction weights are allowable and checking whether there are any fitted � remove them before weighing. If the boat is much more than 5kg over � it is a short term boat � it will be pretty well impossible to get it down to the minimum.

Clean it up just as much as you need to get it on the water. Your son will race it for a year or so and then will start to have enough experience to make a better boat go well. If the boat is only a kilo or two over it is a good boat if it is ready to go in good sailing condition.

Bote Cote have a product called TPRDA that thins epoxy out without destroying its capacity to protect the timber � use it to the max allowed � roll the epoxy out well spread. Adding thinners to epoxy is not cool for boat use. Provided the hull is stiff and fair the chines and panels have nice geometric shapes � nice even curves, no hollows and bumps this is the sort of competitive boat that is worth fixing up and giving the full epoxy treatment to.

As an alternative you can use a good spar varnish as an alternative or paint the decks with a marine enamel. Epoxy coating is good from a wood and weight preservation perspective, but it will add a couple of kilos to the hull weight � even if you are careful. If the boat is going to end up being pretty competitive with that added weight ie no more than a kilo over minimum then epoxy is a worthwhile investment � depending on how much labour is involved.

Or just add the epoxy as you do work on the boat. The most common pitfall is that someone in your position gets all excited about fixing the boat up. They lose track of the fact that the boat is probably pretty close to sailable now. I would suggest doing the minimum you can get away with until you find out how commited your son is. Another thing is not to overcapitalise an old boat unless it can be competitive � ie close to minimum weight, fair and stiff.

Maybe pick up some second hand sails from some of hte top sailors in the class if the ones you have are shot. Replace other things as necessary. Then see how enthusiastic your son is after the first season. A cheaper and a better way to get a fast boat is to buy a good second hand racing boat that is doing well in its fleet than to completely re-outfit an older boat with new sails, mast, rigging and fittings. The resale will be better.

If it is a bit heavy or out of shape � just do the minimum to keep it going focus on the sailing dinghy repair side and leave the restoration � after the season sell it for what your bought it for and get a current competitive boat. One labour intensive � maybe three or four days � but very effective way to lift performance is to make some highly accurate and smooth foils � rudder and centreboard. They can then be moved onto a new boat when the time comes. Shape is important so you have to use templates � contact me on storerm storerboatplans.

I can help with some boats depending on class rules and foil design and allowance. Epoxy is the go if you have weight to spare or the final epoxied weight will only be a kilo or so over.

It gives a good racing life without adding much weight over time. Getting the lead corrector weight into extra coating that prevents the ply from picking up moisture is brilliant.

After a sailing dinghy repair and the boat well dried out it can gain 6 to 10lbs from moisture � so epoxying means no need to worry. The different names are the same timber. Fit Gaboon ply decks in the thinnest allowed by the rules. The join in the decks along the centreline is in the right place for most economical ply and the foredeck mid stringer is wide enough in your International Cadet for both to land on. See the method for coating the bottom and the glass tape whacked down at the same time.

All happens in one process � wet on wet. Glass tape 50mm wide. Sounds like the project is a good basis for improvements of sails and rig after the sailing dinghy repair � but the first season with the existing ones. There are probably some Cadet tuning guides usually available.

Other types of common racing boats often have guides available. Most classes put them up on the net. The Guide for your Class of boat may have things that you can do at this stage and also things like fittings placements on Plywood Dinghy Sailboat 2019 deck. Any screws or bolts should be dipped in epoxy to prevent water getting into the hull and it also increases the grip of the fastening manyfold to remove an epoxied fastening you just heat it with a soldering iron for a couple of minutes. I would expect that you would use probably a little over 3 litres � so a 6 litre pack would make the most sense � or buy a 3 litre pack and be ready to buy a bit more as you need to.

You will need a kilo approximately of a powder modifier to add to the epoxy to thicken it into a gap filling glue. Only use the right high strength powder modifier. Fumed Silica or Wood Flour are the most common choices but epoxy manufacturers normally have a recommendation.

I usually use mostly silica but add some wood flour to allow me to match the colour of the original timber. Silica is white � ugh � and pure wood flour is too dark.

So I usually end up with about 20 percent wood flour in the silica. And it seems to make the silica mix into the epoxy better. Also some TPRDA diluent for where you use the epoxy for coating the ply � it will help spread it out thinly. It is not solvent. But it does weaken the epoxy bond. So never use for gluing or glassing which are structural processes. I have also added a page to my site about what I did to get a geriatric Sabre in some sort of racing condition.

Getting an old Sabre Racing Dinghy into racing condition and how to stop racing nerves! By the way � it might be worthwhile seeing if the class rules or class plans specify the minimum and maximum sizes of any of the solid timber parts. Use the minimum for everything except the width that the gunwales go out from the side of the boat.

In a sailing dinghy repair there may not be much opportunity, but if you can replace a part with something lighter but still allowed dimension, then do so. Another place for large measurements if there is some weight to play with are stiffening stringers in the bottom of the boat.

They are always just glued flat onto the bottom on one face only. Usually the width should be as narrow as the rules allow and the the height the maximum for stiffness.

You can easily calculate the relative stiffnesses of different stringer configurations by multiplying the base by the height cubed. The gunwale should be maximum to increase righting moment. In fact � it should be at the maximum from the shrouds to the back of the cockpit where the crew will be � and minumum everywhere else to save weight. The Cadet had some stained timberwork � from water getting into the structure. My mate Biting midge had a crack at a solution.

Plywood is made up of such thin veneers that the staining will go through the full thickness of the surface veneer. Scraping will make little or no difference. If it was a solid teak drawer fascia � I would be with Midge � but for ply � nah.

You can sometimes get a bit out with some oxalic acid solution. Oxalic is an acid so if you make it too strong it will weaken the wood fibres. We all get used to eyeballing our projects from a distance of 6 inches. We know every nook and cranny, every mistake and defect. They will be so impressed at the end result that they will never look over the whole surface from 6 inches away.

You have to do a few projects before you realise just how oversensitive we all get to each one.

Main point:

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