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11 Tips for Jon Boat to Bass Boat Conversion | Upland Coast That would be a flat bottom Jon boat. They are the ones that have square fronts but some people call regular alluminum boats (despite the shape) Jon boats. We are putting in the front deck right now and I will post more pics when we are finished. I am also trading for a bow mount trolling motor for a guy that wants my 75lb thrust trolling motor. Jun 14, - This Jon boat conversion plans these days i discovered the actual Jon boat conversion plans What is meaning Jon boat conversion plans. Jan 27, �� I'm sharing this because converting Jon boats to bass boats is becoming a big phenomenon and I would like to assist those who are trying to do this. This is the whole process minus adding the carpet, enjoy! Converting a Jon Boat to a Bass I purchased a Polar Kraft 14 FT. V bottom boat from a friend.
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You can see this process in the pictures below. After the liquid nail dried, this seam was not only seamless, but also very sturdy. All that was left was to cut a notch in the very point of the plywood to provide space for wiring, and then the plywood for the deck was complete! The next step in the building process is to cut a door, to provide access to the huge amount of storage space underneath the deck.

I had to think for a while and decide the doors position and what shape it would be. Because my trolling motor would be hanging over on the left side of my deck, I decide to cut one door on the right side of my deck. To provide the door with good stability, I added two more 2x4's to the frame to establish the shape of the door.

You can see this in the picture below. Next to ensure that the door would be precise I had to trace the shape of the door on the plywood. This required my 6'3" frame to climb underneath the seat to access the underside of the deck. After much wiggling, I traced the outline of the underlying 2x4 frame to provide a template for cutting the door.

You will see what I mean in a second. But next I grabbed the jigsaw, and cut the door out of the plywood. You can see the completed door in the pictures below.

All that is left for the door is to add hinges, but we will worry about that later. But as you can see, when the door is shut, it will rest on the 2X4 frame underneath to provide a sturdy and functional door to access my battery, and other storage space.

Next all that is left is to add carpet, mount my trolling motor, and install my pedestal seat. Stay tuned!! Great step by step process.

Are you going to do anything for a rear deck? Or are you going to leave that open? I did a conversion for my boat too, but when I researched for materials I found that I should never use any pressure treated wood because the chemicals used to treat the wood are corrosive to aluminum.

I even replaced the running boards on the trailer so it would not sit on corrosive treated lumber. So when I did my conversion I did not use any wood at all. So none of the materials I put into or on my aluminum boat are corrosive, none will rot and deteriorate either. And, on top of that, my front casting deck in physical weight of materials is far less than treated wood which can be heavy. And none of the materials I used on my boat soak up any water at all.

So keep in mind that using wood, it will soak up water like a sponge and get even heavier. It can mildew, and mold, and it will eventually rot out and need replacing yet again, if the soft aluminum hull survives intact without serious corrosion issues.

And, you gotta be careful of the metal hardware you use on the aluminum too. Using dissimilar metals causes galvanic corrosion. The weakest metal, and if the case of aluminum boats, it is the aluminum that is eaten away to nothing. My boat had this problem from a previous owner who was clueless. I had to repair his mistakes. So to avoid this problem I simply ordered all aluminum hardware, aluminum hinges, etc. I did use some stainless steel in specific location in the transom where stronger bolts were needed, but not on the hull where it is normally wet or below the waterline.

And this brings up another issue of aluminum boats. Do not connect your battery or electrical system to the hull of the boat! This will speed up the galvanic corrosion process big time! Always float your electrical system and wiring on an aluminum boat! Do not use the boat hull as part of your electrical distribution throughout the boat!

Keep the electrons away from the hull or else! Another issue I see with your conversion is you are trusting the seat rivets to hold the front casting deck. Over time you will be stepping up and down and up and down on that casting deck. Those seat rivets holding the seats in are going into the hull which is very thin. How long do you think it will be before those rivets start to wear and give out?

For my conversion I took this into consideration and created a heavy duty rear L bracket to hang the back of the casting deck from the heavier top railing so I don't run into a problem of tearing out seat rivets from the hull- because they were never made for that type of loading.

Another issue I am wondering about is the paint you used. No doubt you used a good paint but what about the primer? Was this directly onto bare aluminum or was the boat previous painted? Paint tends to not stick on bare aluminum. So there are specific primer paints used for bare aluminum, and they are not cheap!

And it is not just a paint, it is a chemical process of surface etching the aluminum so the primer can get a grip or foothold on the bare aluminum to stick to it. Then the top coats can go on. When I did my boat I contacted an epoxy chemical engineer who helped me through the entire process. No corrosive treated wood used in repairing this transom!

I had only one shot at this and it had to be right the first time! No welding of the upper bar across top of transom. Welds in this location tend to crack and fail as the previous owner found out. So I used bolts to act like hinges when the top of the transom flexes under thrust loads. I designed it to flex.

I used just two pieces of aluminum for the transom repair and in 3 years no issues. It is now 3 times stronger than factory and no wood to rot out. This transom can now outlast me! Here are images of the transom welds cracking and failing from the previous owner. Here is a welded side thruster bar the previous owner installed.

Also cracked. This is what happens from years of flexing under load. If they snap, you have to use a special tool to pry them out of their holes.

Keep all the screws and bolts that you have taken off. You need them to determine the sizes of the new screws and bolts that you need to buy for replacement. The next step in our jon boat to bass boat conversion is to sand the boat.

The worn and soiled surface of the boat must be sanded both inside and outside. Use no. Sand all surfaces including the nooks and the crannies. If there is old paint, remove all the loose paint.

Remove all dirt and dust on all the surfaces of the boat as well. Also, vacuum all the open surfaces, if you need to. Before painting the boat, ensure that there is no more dirt, dust, old stripped paint, oil, and other stuff that will cause the new paint coat not to stick on the surface.

Seal the surface and all possible leaks by coating the surface with black epoxy. Apply the first coat and let it stand for 15 to 20 minutes. Then apply the second coat. Wait for another 15 to 20 minutes for the paint to dry, and then apply a third coat. Or instead of a third coat, you can apply a clear coat. To protect the inside of the boat, you can also paint it with a grey epoxy finish to seal the boat and prevent water penetration.

Now, that the boat is painted, you can put in whatever instruments and equipment you want inside. Your boat surely needs some better seating accommodations to complete the conversion from jon boat to bass boat. You may want to install swivel seats two would be good , or one or two benches, depending on your budget. In this final stage, you can also install a deck. To install a deck, some basic carpentry skill are needed.

A video is best to follow for this process. See the below video for a great demonstration on installing a deck on a job boat:. The following 10 tips below are helpful to keep in mind when doing a jon boat bass boat conversion. These tips can help you save money, time, and energy. If you are buying a jon boat for your jon boat bass boat conversion, it is important to choose one with the right size. Get an old wide-hulled jon boat with a size that fits your plan. Be sure that this jon boat fulfills all your desires for a bass boat because this will be the base of your boat.

Everything from here on will depend on the conditions of the base of your boat. You should choose a wider hull because you will have more freedom to do things that you want. If you get a narrow hulled boat, you will be limited in your options.

It will also be very unstable on the water when you install a deck on a narrow boat. The point is: the wider the hull of the boat, the better. Yes, you want to economize. Safety, when converting a jon boat, should be your number one concern. You will be using the boat out in the open water so you will want to ensure the safety of you and your friends and family. If you want a used boat, give it a full and thorough inspection. Look for rust, holes, weak spots, rotted wood, etc and make any necessary repairs on the front end.

If these repairs are outside of your handiness, call in the pros for this step. Turning a jon boat into a functional bass boat is hard work as it is. Pressure treated wood is a godsend for many things, but this project is not one of them.

Unfortunately, the chemicals used on pressure treated wood are not very compatible with aluminum jon boats. The chemicals in pressure treated wood cause negative reactions when they meet aluminum. This can result in corrosion and even pitting in the aluminum, weakening or even ruining your hull. For those who know how to build with aluminum, it is definitely the ideal material for constructing your jon-to-bass framework.

The main benefit to using aluminum is reduced weight. Aluminum is a good deal lighter than wood. Aluminum also holds up better over time than wood. Non-treated wood soaks up water. This makes it heavier and susceptible to mold, mildew, and rotting. Done right, aluminum framing will give you a long-lasting, light build that is strong enough to withstand heavy use. Choosing the right height for deck placement is extremely important for overall stability.

The higher your deck, the less stable it will be when you stand. Hull style and individual preferences both play a role here, but there are some general guidelines for optimal placement. Stability is not a problem with any jon boat of this width. It will absolutely be the most comfortable to stand on no matter where you place your decks.

These numbers are simply a good starting place for deciding your deck height.

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