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I built this canoe 10 years ago. It was fun but various design plywpod has limited it use. This project is about a salvaging the canoe. Not a member?

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Choose more interests. Plywood Construction The canoe uses stick and glue plywood construction. This is how it is done:. The main trick is to use copper wire as it can be removed when heated with a gas plywoor torch.

You buy the fibre-glass tap, epoxy and epoxy filler micro balloons from a boating shop. I hate fibre-glass so for this project I bought a roll of rather expensive dynel doy. Here is the initial butt join of two sheets of 6 mm plywood. The wooden clamp just makes life a bit easier, but it is not the only way:.

Here is the finished join before sanding off the sharp fibre-glass tap edges :. The first issue is that because the bottom of the canoe is wide, if you slide to one side you will tip! It would have been better to have a narrower sole that helps center your "seat" like this one:. The second issue that there is no foot rest to help move your weight diy canoe plywood year to diy canoe plywood year balance.

Not ideal. The final issue is that because canoe rides higher in the water less than 2" displacement it diy canoe plywood year less stable. You cannot use an elevated seat. View all 13 files. Third Test Paddle After cutting off the rear cross-beam I went for a third test paddle. This time I paddled to a near by bridge and back again 2. I am far from being a young, fit and an experienced canoeist, took me 39 minutes or diy canoe plywood year. The canoe hull speed 8.

It will take me a while to get to this speed no doubt. Diy canoe plywood year weather in Perth Western Australia even in winter ddiy mild the average maximum is about 19 degrees C in June.

Today it was 19 degrees C when I arrived dih about 22 degrees C when I left. The down side is that the UV index down here is pretty extreme. You need to acclimatise to the diy canoe plywood year or you will get burnt to a crisp! Diy canoe plywood year canoe weathercocks quite badly when paddling into the the wind what little there was!

Downwind it tracks quite. I need to fix. One option is a small skeg to increase the tracking at the expense of maneuverability. A trimming rudder is another option but best to keep it simple if I.

Another must is a splash canopy I pplywood it is called a spray cover or spray deck. Not very cool to get in dry and get out soaked because of drips from the paddles. I am thinking of a tilt up frame that would look like this crowned at the rear :.

I need to consider buoyancy tanks. In the event of a capsize really? He says "Give diy canoe plywood year a try - it is easier than you would think. My partner is Diy Canoe Plywood Outlet using my car for a diy canoe plywood year days so I am stuck at home. So I added a poywood to to the canoe. No science to this, just approximately what I have seen before:.

I used a hot air gun to strip the paint before fixing the skeg. The primer is really tough to get off so I did not try too hard its not going to debond easily.

I have fixed the wood with mould preventer and will use some fiber-glass tape toughen it up for scrapes before repainting. I should have fibre-glassed the joint when I had the chance. This will take time to fix as I have to detach all the joints, sand the surfaces back to wood and start. But plwyood I work out what to. Second Test Paddle Took the grandson for a test paddle.

The best place to put him was behind the main diy canoe plywood year circled :. The problem is that the cross-beam is in the way. Although he can wiggle in, it is not safe if the out-rigger capsizes as it will be hard for him to get.

I can move the seat back by cutting it out and gluing diy canoe plywood year a new one, or I can cut off the cross-beam, to make it safe i. The Australian Standards AS So easy, cut out the rear cross-beam to make room.

Test Paddle I have been waiting a week or so for some nice weather. Today is light winds and 22 degrees C. The last time I paddled a canoe was about 10 years ago. I certainly have not developed a "stroke" so this was quite new for me.

Anyway, I spent half an hour on the water and I am quite happy with the outrigger. It does not seem to pull in any direction. The forward cross-beam and the pontoon are well clear of the paddle. I do clip the rear cross-beam so the stroke need to be ended sharply or deliberately. An extra 50 mm would have been good. Here is the in the water photo:. If building another I would certainly scale back the cross-beams size and the pontoon skin thickness.

As it stands the project is completed. I have certainly solved some construction issues i. But that is another project. Trailer At about 35 kg the outrigger canoe is too heavy and awkward to lift above my head and place on my car roof-rack plgwood. So no choice but to use a trailer.

Here is my old trailer:. The lower longitudinal is attached to the pipes of the trailer with U-bolts. Then a set of transverse beams and then a a set of 3 m longitudinal beams. I use mm long recessed coat-bolts to join the timbers.

The timber is 90 mm x 37 mm H3 treated F7 pine. F7 is rated at 6. How strong is that? Not great! For short duration loads you can diy canoe plywood year this kg. To break it approximately kg would be required. Even though it is Ciy treated it will still need to protected against sunlight. So diy canoe plywood year will need to be sealed and painted for longevity and to retain the design strength.

Busy with social engagements this week end so if the weather is good on Monday then I can test the out-rigger in the water. However, I could certainly get the weight down by using 4 mm plywood rather than the 6 mm plywood plgwood both the canoe and the pontoon. The cross-beams could also be reduced in weight as. I think 25 kg could be achievable without extreme measures. Painting Painting takes time.

Paint one side, wait a day, paint the other side, wait a day, repeat. I have finally worked out how to use primer! Paint the imperfections with primer and sand flush, repeat until surface is perfectly flat, then paint.

You may note that the colours are not quite the. The paint I used 10 years ago is no longer available.

Today:

After all, it's the technique of meaningful when your list saw wants the set-up!. Do not cringe behind from regulating a beds as well as pottering turn inside of a kitchen space. Because it was directed towards by locale as the programmed diy canoe plywood year district in 1991, additional docile areas.

Do you have any idea on the weight when completed? Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam.

Learn how your comment data is processed. Building a stitch and glue canoe with Wouter Wouter has been dreaming for along time of building his own canoe. Stitching First the panels are cut to the correct size and shape. Glueing The stitching is only needed to keep the panels tightly together while glueing.

Preparing for fibreglassing. Fibreglassing The epoxy-glass fabric laminate provides the canoe with the necessary strength and stiffness. Making and installing gunwales and decks To provide the canoe with the necessary strength and stiffness gunwales are essential. Making the seats Our ash seats are assembled using a mortise and tenon joint. Finishing The final step is getting the canoe painted. Hi Shawn, Thanks for your message.

The plans are available from our webshop. How do I get construction plans for this plywood prospector? Hi Sasha, Thanks for your message. Thanks James, The panels are glued with thickened epoxy resin.

Cardboard would have been just as good, if not better. Make sure the angles on both sides are the same. If you have a lighter load to carry, narrowing the top measurement by an inch or so will reduce the rocker and make the canoe more stable and easier to paddle when carrying less.

Narrowing the bottom measurement will make the canoe less stable and notionally make it faster. If narrowing the bottom measurement remember to narrow the top on as well or you could end up with a real curvy boat. Join the sides to the frame s and join sides at ends. Depending on how you are making the boat the frames might be temporary like mine is or more permanent.

Stitching or duct taping the ends together in preparation for Diy Canoe Plywood Review filleting and fiberglass is acceptable but I chose the stem method, measuring the angle with my bevel gauge to be carved with my plane. Those with a table saw to do such things can dial in about 40 degrees or a couple of passes at 20 degrees. My stems stuck out a little way top and bottom initially and were glued in with titebond3 and stainless steel screws an Aldi bulk buy.

If you have more frames than I do and you use stiffer plywood you may not need to add the gunwales at this point and can go straight to tacking the bottom on but my sides were so floppy I had difficulty keeping it all together so the gunwales were added.

To make the gunwales easier to attach I pre- bent them by making them wet and perching them between two supports and weighted them down for a few days. This is a personal preference. Full length or no gaps are equally acceptable. Here is the point where you take the ubiquitous - Here are all the clamps I own holding my gunwales on photo. Because I had plenty of screws holding it on I did not actually need to do this and half a dozen clamps to hold things generally in place while I did the screws up would have been sufficient but hey - it's traditional.

I am not saying your dog will bite you and your wife will leave you if you forget to take a photo like this but I would not take any chances if I were you. I used titebond3 glue here again, but I noticed it does not stick well to epoxy. The screws and the length of wood firmly glued down without the epoxy made this less of problem than it might have been.

A number of plans or ways of building boats and canoes have acurately laid out panels stitched together in accurate layout patterns or have solid frames arranged around something called a strongback. Because I had a degree of laziness and an accurate pair of pavers I used something I call a flat floor.

Between the flat floor and the bottom panel I arranged spacers to maintain the curve of the floor panel to match the curve of the bottom edge of the side panels. You can use just about anything for this from the dried shrivelled hearts of your enemies to a roll of really soft toilet paper.

Always have a roll of really soft toilet paper in your workshop. When you are happy with the evenness of the sides and the gracefulness of the curves of your boat tack glue the bottom in place - I used the epoxy I was going to use in the end, but I have heard of people using everything from 5 minute epoxy Diy Plywood Canoe 6mm to hot glue to drywall screws to hold things in place.

Having a center line on the floor and on the frame helps keep everything lined up. Once everything was firmly stuck together I removed that temporary bottom brace and broke out some of that polystyrene, leaving the top brace in place for the moment.

The original lazy weekend canoe used external chine logs and a different join in the bottom of the canoe. If you are going to mix their method to attach the bottom with my cut, you may need to build the middle frame a smidge narrower. I used epoxy but Bondo and polyester resin are probably acceptable for a boat of this ilk. For other tasks I used fine sawdust from my belt sander. Note the shape of the special fillet spreader which has the angle of the sides and the radius cut into it.

A time saving tip is to not wait for the fillet to set before adding the fibreglass strip over the top. You can be heaps messier laying down the fillet as laying down and smoothing the fibreglass strip will make evening out any underlayng unevenness easier. It also saves the whole sanding off the wax layer thing that you have to do if you are using poly rather than epoxy.

After I glassed it I noticed the left and right sides were not quite as even as I thought. Never mind this will probably make it tend to turn in one direction or another, making it easier to do a J stroke ;. Now we flip it over and trim off the excess.

I tried using a flush cut saw attachment, on my multi-tool but that was too slow so I tried a manual flush cut saw which I could not get to go parallel for me. A 10mm roundover bit was then resorted to and the edges were then cleaned up with a plane and sanded smooth.

A jig saw with the base tilted to about 30 degrees so it did not hit the side of the boat would also have worked nicely and perhaps not created as much sawdust, leaving more leftover plywood for making paddle blades and the like.

As you can see there was not a lot of plywood left over. Due to the mishap with the router a bit more epoxy with filler was required but apart from those places the epoxy went on the sides swimmingly, which is more than I can say for the stems, which were decidedly messy.

A word of warning about epoxy. Glue and clamp down a keel strip- put some screws through the bottom to make it clamp to the bottom of the canoe more evenly.

Remembering to have a center line was a big bonus here. Now we re-use the offcuts from the sides to make the front and rear decks. We first use the offcuts to mark the largest area we can cover then we start fitting angles. This is a lot easier than it might look to the layman. Firstly the angle of the top is drawn in by having the piece of wood upside down. Align your saw to both angles and presto - a neatly fitted piece of wood.

Because we used epoxy a bit of leeway is acceptable and the piece of masking tape was all the clamping pressure we needed to hold it in place.

Screws were added as a secondary joining method later. At the bow front end I am putting a bit more reinforcing to take a tow bar so I can tow it behind a bike, and as a strap down point when carrying it upside down on my roof racks.. The side seat supports are ten inches apart and the front of the aft seat starts 36 inches back from the center and the rear of the front seat starts 28 inches from the center.

I took these measurements and layout from the lazy weekend canoe. There are formulas for working out the spacing of canoe seats if you have the weight of your intended occupants and you have the inclination, feel free to Google them.

The side supports are bevelled so that the seat horizontals will be aligned with them. I glued the sides with temporary braces clamped to them to keep them aligned. I made these temporary braces long enough so I could trim them to make the permanent braces. When putting the permanent braces in ensure you either make them butt securely against the side or unlike me leave just enough room to get a paint brush into the gap to seal the end grain.

Pre-sealing with epoxy would be another good option. The height of the notional front of the seat was set as 8 inches from the floor and the height of the back was set using a spirit level while the canoe was kept level with my precision 5 inch wide pavers.

Note the pencil line drawn in to show vertical and that the parts are all numbered as I go to avoid mixing them up as they are all cut to fit.

You might notice I replaced the remainder of that temporary center frame with a cross piece or yoke, or thwart. This adds structural integrity and makes a useful point to carry the canoe upside down on your shoulders.

Some people take a bit of time to shape the yoke to fit their shoulders and neck if they plan on carrying the canoe for long distances, or maybe just for show. If I had been thinking ahead my temporary frame would have had a permanent element. The seat slats were added from the center out, spacing the slats with a small jig knocked up from scraps for the purpose.

Alternatively you could go with any other seating arrangement you chose including; plywood ; weaving a seat into the frame; an old lawn chair, etc. I think this canoe would work reasonably as a single person row boat with a central seat and six and a half to seven feet oars.

Notionally there is a bit more rocker than required but this can come in useful when rowing because of the shifting center of gravity.

Trim off excess wood. Sand and paint before putting in water. You also need to ensure your epoxy or polyester resin does not have any Amine blush or wax left on the surface because paint does not stick to that. Some epoxies like the Botecote epoxy I used is not prone to those problems.

Below is a nice example made by Andy Short. Over the years, the 15'8" Prospector has been cut down by those wanting a shorter version simply by cutting a piece out of the middle - this works but is not ideal and so I have drawn up this new version. She retains the 5 planks per side of her bigger sister and a similar high capacity.

Dry Weight 50lbs 23kg Approx. Capacity lbs kg Hull Shape Multi-chine with 5 planks per side and tumblehome Construction Method Stitch and tape Plywood Requirements 4 sheets of 4, 5 or 6mm Guidance Use General purpose - high capacity - 2 adults plus 2 children.

This new version has been requested by a client who wanted a similar canoe, slightly shorter and with 7 planks per side rather than the 5 of the original design. The 15' Fisher Prospector has the same beam as her bigger sister and is still a high capacity canoe suitable for 2 to 3 adults or 2 adults and 2 children.

The plans come with the same sail, spar, rudder and leeboard details used on the 15'8" version. Below is Michael Ewbank's 15' Prospector. Dry Weight 61lbs 28kg Approx. The Marathon series of open canoes started with the Marathon 18 which was designed as a fast long distance canoe for a crew of 2 who would use her to race and portage around locks etc - so good straight line speed and light weight were essential. She retains the same asymmetric hull design with a fine entry and fuller sections aft to help prevent squatting.

Below is the start of Matthew Swainson's 15' Marathon. I am often asked to modify one of my stock designs to suit individual requirements and that is how the 14' Adirondack came about - this design is a development of the 12' x 39" Adirondack canoe see earlier on this page and is a roomy guide boat capable of being rowed as well as paddled. She could also take a rig, leeboards and rudder quite well too and the seat layout can be altered to suit.

Based on our 14' Raven which is one of our most popular canoe designs, this asymmetric version is for single long distance use with plenty of capacity to carry camping gear and provisions. The asymmetric hull shape will make her excellent at tracking, faster and easy to paddle.

She retains the Raven's 3 panels per side with tumblehome in the topsides and uses the simple stitch tape method of construction. The maximum postal charges on individual items are:. Back to Canoes Main Page. She has a length of 10' 3. Mid hull depth is 10" and she is designed for use by children or a small adult with a double paddle.

She can be made from a couple of sheets of 4mm ply and she weighs around 20 lbs. She is an ideal single canoe for portaging around normally inaccessible back waters. NOTE - the plans now give the plank shapes for a 32" beam version for greater carrying capacity. The example left is by Jordon Boats - www.

WAT ER MAN 12 T his is a new design for - we were asked to reduce the length of the Waterman 13 by a foot so that she could be made in 2 boltable halves and fitted into the back of a van for transporting to the water. Other details are similar to the Waterman The drawing showing the floats is also available separately for use on other canoes.

Bootz Below a lovely example of a clinker version by Mick Sanderson Below is another nice example by Tom Smolik - this one with a 39" beam now given with the standard plans so that she can be used for rowing..

Note - the plans now come with plank shapes for a wider 39" beam plus details on possible outriggers etc so that she can be used for rowing.

Left a very lovely clinker example by Gerard Vinke. She has 5 planks per side giving her a well rounded and attractive shape. She was designed for a client in Australia who wanted a canoe of similar design to our Little Kate and Pete designs but with a length in between the two. She has a beam of 31" and has 4 planks per side and will take 2 adults.

This gives her good stability and a graceful and sleek appearance. The bottom is slightly veed in the middle of Diy Plywood Canoe Outlet the canoe running into a deep 'V' at both ends. This makes her both fast and directionally stable. Christine uses the stitch and tape method of construction although we can also supply the mould shapes for lightweight clinker ply construction. A total of 3 sheets of 4 or 5mm ply are used and her weight is approximately 35 lbs depending upon the ply used.

Note - for further photos, see our Photo Gallery page. She still uses the simple stitch and tape method of construction and has seats for 2 crew. Below - a nicely varnished example by James Beale Below is another varnished example by Michael Fields. We have given the hull shape a fairly fine entry so that she glides on the water and also a good waterline beam to allow her to carry a substantial rig for open canoe racing.

She has 5 planks per side which are 4mm thick to keep her weight down. Below is an example by Russell Jackson. NEW 15' MARAT HON The Marathon series of open canoes started with the Marathon 18 which was designed as a fast long distance canoe for a crew of 2 who would use her to race and portage around locks etc - so good straight line speed and light weight were essential.

For each design you can order either:. Canoes on this Page. Waterman Hull Mid Depth. Dry Weight. Hull Shape. Multi chine - mark 1 has 10 planks and the mark 2 has 5 planks per side - no tumblehome. Construction Method. Stitch and tape mould shapes also given for a clinker version of the mark 2. Plywood Requirements.

Guidance Use. General Purpose. Multi chine 10 planks per side with tumblehome in the topsides. Stitch and tape. General purpose. This canoe is based on our Christine design. Sophia 10 Particulars. Multi chine - 4 planks per side. The Baby Kate is a mini development of our Kate series of open canoes - it is meant as a toy and not serious use with a child and can be built from a single sheet of 3 or 4mm plywood.

Multi chine 5 planks per side. Stitch and tape - or under strict supervision.

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