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Warmth the sizzling glue gun. "We all know which these issues take years to develop," Bernick settled boat sailing pictures zoom. These skeleton will concede we to redo pieces of plywood in to radically a many interesting as well as mouth-watering timber vessel.

Have them contend a wordAlfred Johnson!

Took this one of my kid last spring from a dock during a HS sailing regatta with the Rebel T3i and the IS kit lens, though the depth of field put his face a little out of focus. I used to have the Mki, but moving on the boat and cruising we decided that equipment was too bulky and expensive to keep on board.

Broke my heart to sell it. The images were shot in RAW. Only small adjustments of the luminence and sharpening sliders in LightRoom 4. Only LR4 adjustments were done to those pics, no P'shop or third party noise reduction. I have presets for the various gyms, and don't spend a lot of time on post processing.

Camera was Canon 1DX, and lenses from top to bottom were f4, f2. IS was turned off on the teles. All were handheld. Second, I think it's a generational thing. For me the actual shooting involved very little composition, it was all timing and lighting. The composition happened in the darkroom. I could play with the dektol times to change the brightness too. I'm just not good at doing that because I never needed to learn to do it anywhere but in the darkroom.

Now there are no more darkrooms for me to use, I can't set one up, and I can't afford a digital back for my Graflex. Color processing is too hard without the right equipment.

I'm sure you're right that megapixels aren't critical when you're using the whole image, but when you are an old time enlarge-in-the-lab guy like me, a 40 megapixel or so back is a necessity, and I only have and use a portrait lens. Once you zoom into a 40 megapixel image you're only left with 2 to 5 megapixels. Zoom into a 5 megapixel image and you're left with something that looks like it came off a fugitive pinup in the post office.

I should get a digital camera and a zoom lens but I'm too old to learn how to compose in the camera. I just need to hit the lotto and buy a digital back for Consuela, my beloved Graflex. I have three viewfinders on that camera, both a focal plane shutter and a lens shutter, and I'm not used to anything else. If I was a professional lime Woody maybe I would have kept up.

Beck in the day though, woo boy, there were fifty labs to process sheet film, and if I had access to a drum scanner I could wet mount it, scan in just a tiny area at high res, spend some time on it in the computer, or even take the neg into a friend's darkroom, print on fiber paper or make a dye sublimation print. I wasn't a pro photog but I think my prints looked good. I even used to have a inch Epson until the ink dried in it and a business associate took it.

Typically shooting sailing, you're going to want to shoot fast shutter speeds to capture the action, and if you're in full sunlight, that's usually not an issue. With a zoom, if you're shooting handheld you need fast shutter speeds to avoid camera shake. With movement, I prefer x the focal length for shutter speed if hand holding a mm I don't and don't know anyone who does.

Nor was that taught as a good technique in the photo classes I took "back in the day. I can easily do so at 2 or 3 times focal length with a reasonably sized lens. IS on a boat doesn't do too much good because you're always being pitched around anyway, unless the water is flat. If I was on a boat, I wouldn't use IS at all Still got a OK pic because the little guy was giving a good look, but I wouldn't call this pic a keeper, usually discard junk shots like this What the fuck does this have to do with sailing?

You are an idiot! I have taken better with a coffee can and some 8x10 Illibruck. VB man you need to take that dick out of your mouth when your talking Dick is something you have my sock puppet wont fit on my cock.

My photo geek friend doubtless already figuring on what he wants to borrow would have me furnish myself with a quiver consisting of:. But seriously, I am treating myself. I keep stuff for a very very long time This replaces my OM2S and associated lenses. So have at it. Tell me what I should buy. I am NOT going to buy all those lenses.

So what is the one or two "must have" lenses for sailing pics. My one reservation about all these very fine 2. My other passion to sailing is hiking and climbing in remote parts of the world and the thought of gram lenses fills my mental backpack with dread.

But I guess I can always toss in the superlight for those expeditions. Maybe I can get away with just a couple of new lenses to start off with. The mm f The list your friend gave you is what I'd recommend as well.

With this set of lens you'll be set for most all your photographic needs, whether it be family, sailing, street or nature. While many pros have some of the L primes, the kit that most pros take with them at all times, is the same set your friend recommended.

The mm f2. Down the road you can add primes if you wish, but believe me the primes won't see near the use that the zooms will recommended by your friend as well as most pros. Here is a somewhat dated list of marine photographers, but most of the Canon shooters still use the same set of lenses as well, with perhaps a or mm L prime added which generally sees limited use.

If you click "Sailing Photography" and on the photographers profile, usually they have a list of lens which they use most in marine photography. One final note and since I'm spending your money. When you've acquired the set of lenses recommended by your friend. I also recommend buying at least a second body or more. Whether traveling locally or further a field, I usually take a minimum of three to four bodies and quite often five or six bodies with a dedicated lens on each body.

Camera and lens are just tools. Frankly the talk and over kill of equipment seem silly when the user never prints the materials and post on a compressed version here, Facebook or treated on instagram. A quality 6 meg picture is perfect for nearly most modern application. Only my clients indirectly demand I use newer equipment for their web stuff.

Composition, lens and light are everything and the iPhone 5 makes us all snapshot superstars in an attempt to promote our own cult of personality. And more densely packed pixels on a sensor chip means more heat, which can introduce speckles into low-light shots. For a long time, I had the original f2. The 1. If you ever sell, you might lose a hundred or two at most I traded in my for a F2. Both are great lenses. I still have the , and while once in a while I think about getting the new version, but it really doesn't offer me anything I need.

I'll probably never get rid of that lens and it has seen a lot of use. Once you get used to it, it is not that heavy either. There is a rather distinct difference in the L lenses and other Canon lenses. Focus speed is generally faster, contrast and color are better, and they are generally built to withstand more use and harsher conditions.

IQ wise, a couple of non-Ls are very good - the f2. You'll likely break the mirror if you try. You're going to love the 5DIII.

The focusing system is one of the best ever made and the IQ is superb. I have its big brother with the same focusing system, and you cannot believe how well and how fast it locks focus. If you are going to travel, get a rolling camera bag. I just got back from a trip with two bodies, five lenses, flash, multiple filters and other stuff - 32 lbs all up.

The wheels made it very easy. A firmware update for the 5D3 was released in April. Version 1. On the video front, version 1. One other note This past spring I started using DLO for my best images and the results blow any other third party software out of the water.

The catch is using the Canon lenses and bodies listed. One thing I notice with those who do try to do everything right to get a good image, yet still struggle with it The problem is usually their understanding of the Canon auto focus system, especially on those models with cross hatch outer sensor points.

That said Depends on the sensor and the processor I have many decent Pentax K-mount lenses from my 35mm days, long ago. The Pentax system is pretty limited, and if you stay in it you will find that the current crop of Canon and Nikon lenses are far better than your older lenses and have such features as AF, IS, better IQ on digital bodies, etc. While there were some good older Pentax lenses, as a system they are currently just not as good.

As far as Canon vs. Nikon, that's a religious debate. I'll offer that Costco if there is one near you has some pretty smoking deals from time to time. I picked up a Nikon D with and lenses for after rebates about last year. If your budget is , that's enough left over to buy some filters and such.

Otherwise, a lens hood does two things. First, it prevents stray light entering the lens from the side and creating flare point into a light source and you will see it shaped like your aperture blades. Second, it protects against things poking and bumping into the front element.

Tumblr is a place to express yourself, discover yourself, and bond over the stuff you love. It's where your interests connect you with your people. Night sailing. Swahili racing teams come together several times a year to compete in traditional hand-crafted arabic-styled Mashua dhows in the Lamu Archipelago just off Kenya's northern Swahili Coast. Intense village rivalries build over the years, often reaching pitch fever on race day.

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