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Call: or Email orderdesk boatbuildercentral. All of your boat building supplies in one convenient, secure, and specialized online store. Featured Products. Featured Build. SC16 by Mitch Coughlin. Click here for plans. Shop Quantum Paint Now. On the steel boat, this is more often based on the practical minimum necessary to ward off corrosion over time, provide decent welds, and a thickness adequate to minimize unsightly deformation.

Thus 10GA. And in most cases this increase Aluminum Boat Building Supplies Numbers applies mostly to thickness alone as is listed in Fig. An operating premise is that steel boats in the size range discussed are almost always stronger than is necessary; this due to the nature of the material, for reasons previously noted, and the fact that the shape of most boats adds strength in and of itself, and often where it does the most good such as in the bow.

Thus there is some latitude in the conversion process - we're not talking rocket science here. So using the example, 10GA. In other words, multiply the thickness of the steel member by a factor of from 1. Tip: Start with 1. That's basically all there is to it. In the above and referring to Fig. These members are common in steel boats rather than using formed or extruded members such as angles, channels, tee's, etc.

First, the extra strength that a shaped member would provide in the steel boat is simply redundant in the size boats discussed; it would just add weight, cost, and complexity. Second, shaped members add to the difficulties of inspection, maintenance, and corrosion protection in the steel boat; for example, the ability to see and coat the underside flanges is difficult, especially when such members are small.

However, in the aluminum boat in Fig. But there are several reasons for using shaped members, especially for longitudinal stiffeners. First, such members are stronger. Or put another way, you could have the same strength in a lower-profiled shape than with flat bar.

And the added strength in the aluminum boat is a plus. Another benefit might be more usable interior volume. And because marine aluminum requires no corrosion resistant coating and won't rust, the shaped members don't add to maintenance and inspection difficulties as in the steel boat.

Finally, shaped members, especially those of symmetrical section such as tee's and channels, are easier to work. They tend not to be so floppy, and bend more uniformly than flat bar. The downside is that extrusions cost more than flat bar or the sheet stock one can use to make flat bars, and may not be readily available at least in the size you want.

If working from stock plans for an aluminum boat, the designer probably specified certain sizes, types, and alloys of members for framing, etc. But deviations may be possible. Most designs have some latitude in alternates that can be substituted. For example, angles can be substituted for tee's and vice versa. Channels can be made from split square or rectangular tubing, or even split pipe if somewhat larger than the specified channel.

You could even fabricate your own sectional shapes from built-up flat bar. Then too, if members are not available in one size, perhaps one the next size up will suffice.

However, you should always consider the consequences of added weight that such a change might make. Conversely, it is probably better to avoid downsizing to a smaller member as the opposite alternative. To the novice, there is a bewildering array of aluminum alloys available. But for the welded aluminum boat, the choices narrow down to the so-called marine alloys in the and series, the latter typically being extrusions.

Yet even within these series there are still many alternatives. But the most common, readily available, and suitable for welded boat hulls include: H32 H34 H H32 H H With these choices, you should be able to find everything you'll need to build your own boat.

However, the designer may have already taken this into consideration if is specified. Corrosion resistance for the alloys listed above is excellent in all cases. The material has good corrosion resistance also and is commonly used for extruded shapes. Many have substitution guides you can use to suit what's stocked.

Early aluminum boats were often made with closely-spaced transverse frames with few, if any, longitudinals, a carry-over from traditional wood boatbuilding no doubt. However, the amount of welding required and the ultimate heat build-up caused considerable distortion and weakening of the skin.

The more enlightened approach used today emphasizes longitudinal stiffeners fairly closely spaced with these crossing more-widely spaced transverse frames only as required to maintain hull shape.

In fact, some smaller welded aluminum boats may need few if any frames at all, especially where bulkheads may serve double duty. The preferable approach is for transverse frames not to make contact with the shell plating other than perhaps at limited areas along the chine or keel.

In effect, such frames are "floating" within the hull, and are used to support and reduce Aluminum Boat Building Supplies 03 the span of longitudinals which are the primary members stiffening the hull plating. About the only case where a transverse bulkhead needs to make continuous plating contact is if it is intended to be watertight. Even then, such a practice tends to distort the plating and is often readily visible on the outside of the boat.

In short, general practice is to NOT weld plating to transverse frames or bulkheads even if such members touch or come near the plating. The chine is the junction between the bottom and side on a v-bottom or flat bottom boat. On high-speed planing boats, this corner should be as crisp are possible, especially in the aft half of the hull. The reason is that water should break free from the hull to reduce frictional drag at speed, and not climb up the topsides.

As shown before, Fig. Backing members such as in 'C' and 'D' help tie frame members together when setting up and help define the chine line to assure a smooth, fair curve.

Otherwise, a backing member is largely optional. If a special extrusion as discussed before is available, these are acceptable. The example in 'E' includes a built-in spray deflector, and can be bent along its length as required to conform to an ever-changing angle between the side and bottom that commonly occurs.

Side and bottom plating fit into the slots which are then welded continuously. Whether such welding is done both sides depends on plating thickness and a builder's desires. From an appearance standpoint, a continuous inside weld looks best. However, such extrusions are often proprietary items or otherwise prohibitive in cost, and a problem to buy and ship in small quantities.

Completing the ends of such extrusions where they join to transom and stem areas is also not always easy for the builder making a single boat. An alternative that provides much the same effect is the tee-bar in 'C'; this is easy to bend and is usually readily available. However, if the protruding flange is too pronounced, there may be a tendency to hang up on rocks in certain boats such as whitewater boats, or snag debris and catch pilings in other types of boats depending on their use.

A lower cost alternative is a simple round bar in 'D'; this adds abrasion protection to an often vulnerable corner. But if too large a diameter, won't provide the crisp edge needed for higher-speed planing boats you could add a flat bar deflector edge-wise against the bar slightly above the corner that might help, however. Otherwise, round bar bends around frames easily and gives a well-defined boundary to work to when fitting side and bottom plates.

A simple corner joint with side and bottom butting together as in 'A' is technically feasible, but is more difficult to fit and make fair. A temporary chine backing member may help in this regard.

In this case the bottom is fitted first and cut with care along the chine line a temporary backing member may aid in fitting. Then topsides are installed, letting the edge overhang the junction a distance as required to form the spray deflector flat. While a good design, this configuration also takes care to assure fair lines. As mentioned, on the modern aluminum hull, most plating is reinforced by longitudinals. While a good set of plans will specify what to use for these members, this does not necessarily rule out another alternative if what is specified is not available.

The cheapest and most easily obtained is the simple flat bar 'A'. These are available in many sizes, often in the form of extrusions with radiused edges that facilitate welding, or you can cut your own from plate. Other stiffeners are often extruded shapes that can get costly and may not be as readily available in the sizes needed. Angles as in 'B' are usually easy to get and have good strength to weight, but the asymmetrical shape may make bending in two planes difficult.

Tee's 'C' present a symmetrical shape that forms more easily. Inverted channels 'D' are also an effective stiffener, but rectangular tubes 'F' , and "I's" 'E' are largely overkill since that portion of the member against the hull adds weight with little or no gain in strength, but at a higher cost. On the other hand, the special hull stiffening channel configuration sometimes available as in 'G' makes an effective stiffener.

A less effective member strength-wise is the split pipe or tube as in 'H' which is sometimes also stocked as a ready-made stiffener. When installing longitudinals, bending can present problems depending on curvature and member type. One approach some builders take to reduce bending effort is to gore members along their flanges as in Fig. This idea is sound, but the execution takes care to assure fair curves.

Good practice also calls for radiusing the corners at the gores slightly to minimize hard spots against the plating. Avoid over-welding, and completely around the ends of each cut. This allows a strong fillet weld on both sides of the junction the inside weld can be intermittent. A simple corner junction here as in Fig. In fact, some builders extend the bottom plating considerably past the transom on faster planing hulls to form integral non-adjustable trim tabs.

These can later be bent down slightly if required for best performance and then bracketed to the transom once an optimum position has been found. Transom thickness technically need be no more than that of the side or bottom plating. Additional thickness may be required - at least in the area of the cut-out - either through the use of doublers or thick inserts.

A thicker insert is preferable at a cutout to avoid the need to seal joints between doublers by welding. Where thin plating meets thicker plating, bevel the thicker edge at a slope equal to at least three times the thickness of the thinner plate see Fig. The insert should have rounded corners rather than being a hard square or rectangular shape.

There is an on-going debate as to whether welded aluminum boats should be made as light as possible via light plating and framing but with more of it , or with heavier plating using minimal but also somewhat huskier framing members. A boat built with light plating and framing is lighter in weight for more-economical operation, has a higher speed for a given power, is more-easily trailered, has greater payload, and because it has less material, will cost less.

Advocates of heavier plating and framing counter that thicker plating is stiffer which better resists flexing, twist, and fatigue, won't dent as easily, and will deter longer any effects of corrosion.

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