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25.02.2021Author: admin

myboat044 boatplans - list of boat plans for amateur boat building Popular Fishing Boat Plans Here you will find a vast array of flats fishing and skinny water boats that you can build yourself. Ranging from 13� to 22�, there is a size to fit all needs and all budgets. Here at Boat Builder Central, we have been designing flats boats and providing kits to build [ ]. Aluminum boats using welded marine alloy construction are strong, lightweight, durable, and easy to maintain. As with steel, the designs should be specifically intended for this material. Plans listed for aluminum construction include all the details necessary to build the boat in sheet aluminum.
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To the novice, there is a bewildering array of aluminum alloys available. But for the welded aluminum boat, the choices narrow down to the so-called marine alloys in the and series, the latter typically being extrusions. Yet even within these series there are still many alternatives. But the most common, readily available, and suitable for welded boat hulls include: H32 H34 H H32 H H However, the designer may have already taken this into consideration if is specified.

Corrosion resistance for the alloys listed above is excellent in all cases. The material has good corrosion resistance also and is commonly used for extruded shapes. Early aluminum boats were often made with closely-spaced transverse frames with few, if any, longitudinals, a carry-over from traditional wood boatbuilding no doubt. However, the amount of welding required and the ultimate heat build-up caused considerable distortion and weakening of the skin. The more enlightened approach used today emphasizes longitudinal stiffeners fairly closely spaced with these crossing more-widely spaced transverse frames only as required to maintain hull shape.

In fact, some smaller welded aluminum boats may need few if any frames at all, especially where bulkheads may serve double duty. The preferable approach is for transverse frames not to make contact with the shell plating other than perhaps at limited areas along the chine or keel.

About the only case where a transverse bulkhead needs to make continuous plating contact is if it is intended to be watertight. Even then, such a practice tends to distort the plating and is often readily visible on the outside of the boat. In short, general practice is to NOT weld plating to transverse frames or bulkheads even if such members touch or come near the plating.

The chine is the junction between the bottom and side on a v-bottom or flat bottom boat. On high-speed planing boats, this corner should be as crisp are possible, especially in the aft half of the hull.

The reason is that water should break free from the hull to reduce frictional drag at speed, and not climb up the topsides. As shown before, Fig. Otherwise, a backing member is largely optional. If a special extrusion as discussed before is available, these are acceptable. Side and bottom plating fit into the slots which are then welded continuously. From an appearance standpoint, a continuous inside weld looks best.

However, such extrusions are often proprietary items or otherwise prohibitive in cost, and a problem to buy and ship in small quantities. Completing the ends of such extrusions where they join to transom and stem areas is also not always easy for the builder making a single boat. However, if the protruding flange is too pronounced, there may be a tendency to hang up on rocks in certain boats such as whitewater boats, or snag debris and catch pilings in other types of boats depending on their use.

Otherwise, round bar bends around frames easily and gives a well-defined boundary to work to when fitting side and bottom plates. A temporary chine backing member may help in this regard. In this case the bottom is fitted first and cut with care along the chine line a temporary backing member may aid in fitting.

Then topsides are installed, letting the edge overhang the junction a distance as required to form the spray deflector flat. While a good design, this configuration also takes care to assure fair lines. As mentioned, on the modern aluminum hull, most plating is reinforced by longitudinals.

While a good set of plans will specify what to use for these members, this does not necessarily rule out another alternative if what is specified is not available.

These are available in many sizes, often in the form of extrusions with radiused edges that facilitate welding, or you can cut your own from plate.

Other stiffeners are often extruded shapes that can get costly and may not be as readily available in the sizes needed. When installing longitudinals, bending can present problems depending on curvature and member type. One approach some builders take to reduce bending effort is to gore members along their flanges as in Fig.

This idea is sound, but the execution takes care to assure fair curves. Good practice also calls for radiusing the corners at the gores slightly to minimize hard spots against the plating.

Avoid over-welding, and completely around the ends of each cut. This allows a strong fillet weld on both sides of the junction the inside weld can be intermittent.

A simple corner junction here as in Fig. In fact, some builders extend the bottom plating considerably past the transom on faster planing hulls to form integral non-adjustable trim tabs. These can later be bent down slightly if required for best performance and then bracketed to the transom once an optimum position has been found.

Transom thickness technically need be no more than that of the side or bottom plating. Additional thickness may be required � at least in the area of the cut-out � either through the use of doublers or thick inserts. A thicker insert is preferable at a cutout to avoid the need to seal joints between doublers by welding.

Where thin plating meets thicker plating, bevel the thicker edge at a slope equal to at least three times the thickness of the thinner plate see Fig. The insert should have rounded corners rather than being a hard square or rectangular shape. There is an on-going debate as to whether welded aluminum boats should be made as light as possible via light plating and framing but with more of it , or with heavier plating using minimal but also somewhat huskier framing members.

A boat built with light plating and framing is lighter in weight for more-economical operation, has a higher speed for a given power, is more-easily trailered, has greater payload, and because it has less material, will cost less.

First, there is a natural tendency among builders in any material to over-build and second-guess the designer, even when a boat uses the heavier plating approach initially. The typical idea is that if so much is good, then a little more must be better. The result is that such boats weigh more than the designer predicted.

You guessed it � NOT the builder. Much depends on the boat and its expected service. For pleasure boats, I tend to favor lighter scantlings, but for more rigorous duty, heavier construction may be justified. However, rather than simply increase plating thickness, you might get similar results by adding a few more internal stiffening members instead.

An appealing possibility on metal boats is tanks integral with the hull, which is acceptable for diesel fuel but not gasoline. Because the hull shell plating provides one or more of the tank sides, and internal tank members can double as hull stiffening members, such tanks can save material and add capacity without taking up more room. First, tanks might be of such a size or located in such a position that welding tight seams all around the perimeter is difficult if not impractical.

Second, because full welds are required, there is a greater chance of heat buildup and ultimate hull plating distortion. Finally, special consideration must be given at the intersections of tank ends, hull stiffening members, and internal tank baffles when required.

We provide kits and all supplies of course! Our building notes are also very detailed making the smaller boats simple projects that even first time builders can undertake without fear! Many of our other plans and kits are shallow draft boats suitable for use in skinny water. Please have a look through the site, we are sure you will find the boat that best fits your needs! It is a very small and light flats boat that can take a crew of one or two persons and performs well with a small tiller outboard.

The classic Phantom range includes the Phantom 15, the Phantom 16, the Phantom 18, and the Phantom 22 versions. Each version is lightweight, easy to pole, and boasts a very shallow draft.

The PH16 and PH18 are full-fledged flats boats that can take a crew of up to 4 or 5 persons. These are tunnel hulls that can be built on a small budget and perform better than most carbon fiber machines. Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. If you want to build a boat, we have what you need.

Chesapeake Light Craft is your source for boat kits , kayak kits , boat plans , and boatbuilding materials. Our original, award-winning boat designs include kayaks , canoes , rowing boats , dinghies , and sailboats. More than 30, CLC boats have been built from kits and plans. Our designs are built by amateurs and professionals alike in more than 70 countries around the world. Enjoy hours of free boatbuilding video content, including this part how-to that takes you through a stitch-and-glue kayak kit from start to finish.

Dozens of videos on strip-planked kayaks are here , and most boat pages have engaging intro videos like this one. On this site you will find not just boat kits and plans but boatbuilding materials , marine plywood , boatbuilding tools , MAS epoxy , paint and varnish , kayak and canoe paddles , oars , paddling gear , books , DVDs , and sails. Have a boatbuilding question?




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