Model Ship Building Practicum Limited,1987 Stingray Boat Models Roblox,Ch 10 Maths Class 10 Theorems Mod,Ch 13 Maths Class 10 Vedantu Live - Step 2
Some points:. My intent is to add as much of the detail shown on the plans to the model to the limits of my ability and patience. Here is the gig at the same point as the pinnace with the ribs and flooring supports waiting paint. The only difference is that I added the interior gunwale. So, onto the two whaleboats:. Nice job on the launches Jon I look forward to getting around to them eventually. Enjoyed your opening story about the plastic models you blew up with firecrackers.
Actually, my personal preference was cherry bombs. The two whaleboats progressed in the same manner as the gig. At this point, Model Expo came through and my paint package arrive This time it did not disappear.
A coat of white primer was applied to all four boats. Now I will concentrate on one boat at a time. The pinnace is the first. Using the Byrnes saw and some of the kit wood stock I forget which size I used , that was easily remedied.
The rail cap was next. The practicum used styrene, I used boxwood. The plastic would have been easier, but is nicer.
Also according to the plans, the cap is not painted white. The transom was simply a straight piece of wood. First is the mast step. As usual, my first order of business is to find pictures of the real thing and research how others made theirs. Try as I might, I could not find a single pictures on the internet nor in any of the books on the Constitution I have, nor in any of the books on small boats I have.
I did have the Navy plans, but even those were a bit confusing. The practicum skipped this part all together. As usual, just about everyone used artistic license to either skip a lot of details or alter the design for one reason or another. That was their choice and I have no problem with that. My choice is to try and follow the Navy plans as best I can. Using the Navy plans, the four main parts of the mast step were reduced to scale and used as a template.
The plans call for a 1 inch bolt to pass through the two beam structures. This would also pass the curved bottom mast so that the mast could pivot along the length of the beam of the boat. A 1 inch bolt reduces to scale of 0. My initial thought was to use some real thin copper wire for this.
Two of the pieces fit at right angles to the beam pieces and appear to sit on the floor boards. This is where I was confused. The plans state that the two beam pieces fit against the keelson. From the plan view, the cross pieces appear to fir over the beam pieces. The elevation view implies that they butt up against the beam pieces. My best guess is that this structure is constructed somewhat like a grating. That license sure comes in handy. The pre-painted beam structures were glued in first using PVC glue so I could make small adjustments.
I decided to sacrifice the 80 bit I used to drill the bolt hole as the bolt itself. It was stiff and had the right thickness and color. An eyebolt was required just forward of the step. The eyebolt was not shown a dimension on the Navy plans so I made some measurements off the plans and reduced it scale.
Because the eyebolt was shown on a metal plate, I painted the bolt and a square area around the bolt black to simulate the metal plate. A bit of touch up paint, and it was complete. These are the short footboards at the bow. From those builders that have posted this detail, including the practicum, nobody has included them in their build. Additionally, everybody Wooden Model Ship Building Supplies Us those that I can see installed 5 footboards radiating from the bow. I counted seven on the plans. So, I installed seven.
The practicum simulates the sole with a piece of styrene etched with lines imitating pieces of wood. I thought I would try something different. First a pattern was made based on the plans, but adapted to conform the actual model. This was used to size the pieces and orientate and locate their final position. The problem was that the sole required that the piece be glued edge to edge.
This is not structurally strong. To compensate for this lack of mechanical strength, the pieces were PVC glued directly onto paper in five separate groups. The pattern was cover with wax paper to prevent the modules from sticking to the pattern as it was being put together and glued into the final assembly.
The idea here was that I was hoping the individual planks would be visible after the paint dried. In the end, I still need to enhance the edges around the portable panel with an X-acto blade.
Finally, it was fitted into the stern. Another eyebolt with a painted simulate plate was also installed. Once more I deviated from the practicum. In this case, the practicum constructed the bench seat from three pieces of boxwood: two side seats and the transom seat. Interestingly, those plans show the bench as one piece. Like the practicum, I did not install any of the underlying support knees or braces.
It will support the bench seat and the thwarts. The template was rubber cemented to the plywood and cut out with my 40 year old Dremel hobby scroll saw. To my delight and surprise, with just a few minor tweaks with a file, the bench seat fit perfectly. Continuing my way from the bottom interior up, the thwarts were next. But before I started those, I thought it would be prudent to install the lift fittings double eyebolts at either ends of the boat.
Each eyebolt had a ring. The width of both rings were the same. For the top ring, about a quarter of the circumference of the ring was snipped off and the resulting ends joined together. This reduced the size of the ring closer to scale. The bottom was squeezed to the width of the top ring and resulted in an oblong shape. They were then installed. The mast thwart clamps were made from card stock file folder and painted black. With the card stock, I could use the PVC and its tackiness would hold the parts in place as I maneuvered their positions.
These pictures were taken prior to any staining of the thwarts. The practicum does not. Being the crazy fool that I am, I made the attempt. Using a technique that as far as I know, no one else has used, I made six cleats.
The first four images below are from my Rattlesnake build where I needed one very small cleat. The last three from this build. Using some picture hanger nails, ones with a flat head, I filed off two sides of the nail head right up to the nail shank.
Then placing modified nail in my rotary tool, I ground it on a file held in a vise. When done, I was left with a very stubby shank just under the modified head followed by a very thin shank. The thin shank is what will anchor the cleat into the wood. Using my reduced down to kit size US Navy plans, I made templates for the stern 2 pieces and bow lower level horizontal knees � a total of three.
I could have used the kit plans but the US Navy plans produces a much finer line drawing. Before I move onto the rail and the rowlocks, I wanted to add the stem and keel to the outside of the boat.
The rail needs to attach to stem. The stem was made in two pieces: the rounded bow and the straight upright portion of the stem. Once the stem assembly was fabricated and installed, the keel was added with lots of overhang. The keel widens as it follows the shape of the up to the transom.
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