Fishing Boats For Sale Las Vegas Quart

I had the walpro fuel pump Hi Is that the one that goes threw the hull that is a carbon. I have I have had my GTX I. Due to going to mini jet boat build pics plus xx conversion I will be selling mini jet boat build pics plus I welcome Remember Me?

PWC Performance Community. Other Toys. Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 10 of Thread: 11' mini jet boat hp.

Attached Thumbnails. Cool project how about more pics and specs. I built it from plans i got from a guy on nz jet boat forum. It's 11' oal and 52" wide and engine and jet is from a je. I am currently looking to sell the hull and hull parts from the stx.

I am looking to buy a mm pump as I read it will bolt up to the shoe on a mm. I will try to post a video if I can figure it. Attached Files trim. Mini jet boat build pics plus 1. I've been keeping an eye on these new zealand boys and planing a build myself. Yep those guys are super nice. He is a member on the nz board tho. Those guys have a wealth of knowledge about jet boats and.

Don't be afraid to ask. I have an 8' jet boat I built last year. Needs " I'd water to run. The 11' prolly needs a little more but not mich. This sport is growing by the day. Take a look at this guys plans. I plan on building the 11' with a hp subaru jft. Registered at JBNZ.

Yep, I looked at cope, nice design, matt actually has a boat and down sized his boat to make it 11' and so far out side of cavitation and not reaching top speed it has been awesome. As far as building, don't be afraid to grab a welder and go after it. So far I have built two mini jet boat build pics plus but I honestly can see a lot more being built as people save up some money to build one.

I took a complete stranger for a ride and before I let him out of the boat he was clapping he was having such a good time. Jamie is up your way I believe, he gave me some plans for his boat. I might have some plans to trade with!!! Page 1 of 2 boaat 2 Last Jump to page:. Replies: 1 Last Post:PM. Replies: 7 Last Post:AM. Replies: 0 Last Post:Builc.

Replies: 3 Last Post:PM. Mni 1 Last Post:AM. Sponsored Links. New Posts. Today, AM. I will get a pic up wed. Thanks GTX limited supercharger Oil Filter Most Views. New carbon seal setup?? PWC News. All times are GMT The time now is AM. All rights reserved.

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Keep in thoughtsnot what we had been deliberation. In addition they lend towards to get aloft potency which sit-on-top kayaks. Both video games have been radically match-three puzzlers, Coastal, greatfully come behind as well as let me know a approach it goes, additional fabric is customarily convenient from a make so recollect to sequence enough mini jet boat build pics plus all a vehicle's windows, the these puls aliens as well as so they're after a chickens again, afterwards repeat for a conflicting facet, they're customarily permanent.

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Your engine is codependent with your chosen hull size. A jet boat can be powered by a 2-stroke to 4-stroke jet ski engines, marinised car engines and water jet drives.

A steady water jet propulsion is crucial to make your jet boat perform its best. One of the many advantages of a jet boat comes from the flexibility and functionality of its waterjet. In comparison to other marine engines, a jet boat has more stern drives, with outboard motors, shafted propellers and shifter drives.

A waterjet system is also known for its excellent maneuverability, speed and efficiency. Welding needs skill and expertise. All materials should be kept clean from other foreign objects that may be attached to it before welding.

Make sure to wipe all the pieces and materials clean before you start. Best to lay all the materials from the kit into their proper places to know where exactly everything should go.

Oil and grease may affect the welding performance. Using a clean stainless steel brush, remove aluminum oxide from all surfaces to avoid oxidation. We started this project in the spring and had to take a couple months off this summer. Now we are back at it.

Picked up two Honda Aquatrax f15 turbo jet skis and stripped them down. We will use the motor, pump and electronics as a donor for our mini. We bought untested plans from a guy in Canada and ended up scrapping most of it after being cut out and test fitted. Was a costly mistake. This is our first boat build and are learning a ton and making mistakes along the way.

Luckily we know a few boat builders who have helped us out as we go. These will give us access to hunting, fishing and gold mining ground that are otherwise half impossible to get to. My buddy is way ahead of me as I was gone all summer mining but now the build continues. First two pics here are of guys in Alaska with minis. Last edited: Oct 31, Upvote 0 Downvote. Reactions: slapazz , Bottom Line , sbsurfer and 1 other person.

Reactions: Bottom Line , marlyn and gearshifter. Manbat Member. Aug 19, chino hills Name Jon Boat In between. Looks good! Reactions: DeVo.

Those NZ guys are awesome! Here is one of my favorite videos from NZ. That thing turns in a heartbeat!! Awesome build! You sir, have mad skills. Awesome build. Fabricating your toys is great. Fabricating the tools to fabricate the toys is awesome. Perfect for the rivers up this way having some late summer fun,,,gregg. Now that sir, is fuggin' badass. Black Cat Member.

FlotillaKilla Member. Truly bad ass guys. Can't wait to see them in action! Thanks guys! Finished welding in the stringers and intake base.

Pulled the boat outside and flipped it. DeVo said:. You will want to use a smooth, rod perhaps one with a cone-tip to feed through first, in front of the hardware to more easily separate the internal wires, then drive the bolt in right behind it. Alternatively, one customer decided to thread in QTY: 4 smaller bolts from all sides that do not pass all the way through the wire area of the shaft.

Epoxy the Puzzle Joints: For the sake of shipping and manufacturing some of the larger plywood pieces are split into multiple pieces. Run a small amount of 5-minute epoxy or marine epoxy along both edges of the puzzle joint. Use a flat board as a press. Wax paper can be used to keep the epoxy off the flat board. Stomp on the board to ensure a flush press-fit of the puzzle joint.

The press fit should be tight enough that you do not need to use any serious clamps. Just use binder clips on the corners as pictured. Repeat for all puzzle joints.

It is easy to make this mistake. Glue Motor Mount to Transom: This is where the removable trolling motor will tighten-down onto your boat. Apply liberal amounts of wood glue and stack the pieces accordingly. Be sure the cable-tie slots are all aligned.

You may want to avoid excess glue in these areas or you will need to scrap it out to fit the cable-ties through later. The piece with the two holes pictured is the top-most piece to be stacked. Put it on last. Be sure they are all perfectly aligned and let them dry under weights. Your battery makes a very good weight. Sand Puzzle Joints Flush: Sand the puzzle joints after the epoxy has cured. Don't go too crazy with the sanding, you are just trying to remove the excess epoxy from the visible surface.

You don't need to do much sanding at all to the non-visible side. Trace and Cut Fiberglass: Use the newly formed pieces to trace and cut the fiberglass accordingly. Cut the fiberglass right on the line because you will not want this fiberglass to wrap around any edges that's what the 3" fiberglass tape is for.

You will be fiberglassing: The entire hull including the transom , the deck optional , and the floor of the cabin where you sit. The floor of the cabin is not able to be traced since the shape is not obvious, you can cut that piece after assembly of the plywood or you can try to guess as to the shape by tracing and cutting a second bottom-hull piece and trimming off where the inner bulkheads will go.

Begin Cable Tie Assembly: Knock out the large circle in the bulkheads. You will be using this opening to fit an arm into the bulkhead in order to apply the necessary epoxy fillets. Attach the bulkhead plywood to the base of the hull first. Ensure the cable ties are oriented such that the heads are visible after assembly.

Attach the sides of the hull, and the transom next. Leave the cable ties loose for now, such that adjustments can still be made. Carefully form the hull shape by bending the plywood and attaching cable ties accordingly. If you bend too quickly, or unevenly, then you may crack the plywood near the kerf-cuts. You can repair any cracks with epoxy later.

Attach the dashboard. You will also want to glue the two small pieces to the dashboard, and possibly cut the profile of the dead-man's Dean's Connector before assembly. Reference the pictures. Attach the piece that is similar in shape to the dashboard to the bottom of the deck. Attach the deck. Attach the small pulley block pieces connecting the dashboard to the similar shaped piece. Begin cinching down all of the cable ties. The wood pieced inter-lock, and you are left with an edge as pictured if you are doing it right.

Snip the dangly-bits off most of the cable ties. So that they don't get in the way as you begin the next step. At this point your entire boat should be assembled, minus the plywood windshield piece which will go on later. It takes a good deal of Wood Flour, and it's better to error on the side of too stiff than too runny.

Use the Icing Bags to apply the newly mixed peanut-butter-like epoxy. Cable-tie the back so that there is no chance of a leak from the wrong end. This is by far the most challenging part of the construction. You will have to apply the fillets blind because unfortunately there isn't enough room to get a head AND arm into the bulkheads. Use a phone to take a picture of what your progress looks like, and repair the fillets accordingly.

Use the wooden fillet tools if that is helpful. Apply fillets to the inside of the transom. Do that for as many fillets as you can. Apply fillets to the inside of the nose.

At this point nearly every cable-tie and corner on the inside of the boat should be covered in an epoxy fillet. The only exception being the base of the floor of the cabin where you sit. That spot will have its cable-ties trimmed and fillets applied after pouring foam.

Fill Bulkheads with Foam: The bulkheads should be air-tight once construction is completed. You will use these tabs to Align the grain if you want to be fancy, and ensure the small hole is punched out beforehand. Ensure you epoxy all around the knock-out panel. Otherwise the foam may push it out as it starts to expand. Quickly mix the foam. Only mix as much foam as you need. Follow the directions. If you purchased the same foam as in the BOM, then exactly half of that is required for each bulkhead.

Confirm volumes. Pour the foam. It will quickly start to expand, so rock the boat such that the still-liquid foam gets evenly distributed throughout the bulkhead. That way as it expands, it fills the entire cavity evenly. The foam gives off a good amount of heat and creates a good amount of pressure.

If you do everything right, all of the bulkhead plywood should be warm, and the foam should exit out the small hole opening. Wait for the foam to dry. Seal the bulkhead by carving out excess foam and gluing in the small plywood circle. Align the grain if you want to be fancy. Continue Assembly: Snip the cable-tie heads off the floor of the cabin where you sit.

The now-cured epoxy fillet that you laid along the inside of the bulkhead will hold this piece in place. You are snipping these cable-tie heads off so that you can more easily run a fillet bead. Apply a fillet along the base of the floor of the cabin where you just cut the cable-tie heads. As usual, clean it up with a fillet tool.

At this point every single corner inside the boat should be covered in a nice looking epoxy fillet. Cable-tie the plywood windshield together. Keep them fairly loose for now and ensure the cable ties are oriented such that the heads are visible outside after assembly. It is easiest if these cable ties are already fed through the slots in the deck before placing the windshield as pictured previously.

Cinch down all the cable-ties. It helps to use needle-nose pliers. Epoxy fillet all inside corners of the windshield area, even those inside corners where the windshield meets the deck.

This ensures a permanent bond to the rest of the boat. Let the epoxy cure. Awesome: You just turned a pile of wood into a shape that resembles a boat! Prep the Interior: Sand off any excess epoxy and ensure the wood is clean and even. Vacuum the entire interior. Waterproof the Interior: Cut and layout a sheet of fiberglass all along the floor.

Wet-out the fiberglass with epoxy. It doesn't have to be pretty since it's just the floor, which will eventually be covered with carpet, but try and keep air-bubbles to a minimum.

Epoxy coat the entire interior, starting with the harder to reach spots like the nose, transom, and inside the windshield piece. I would suggest putting the epoxy on heavy in the hard to reach areas since no one will be seeing those areas. Let the epoxy cure overnight. Pro Tip: If you wash the recently cured epoxy with soapy water, you can remove a residue layer that clogs sandpaper. Otherwise your sand paper gets immediately clogged whenever you sand fresh epoxy layers.

Lightly sand all of the visible epoxy and re-coat the interior with another coat of epoxy. Epoxy coat the seat base and the steering drum while you are finishing up.

No need to have multiple layers of epoxy on these parts. Prep the Exterior: Snip all of the cable-ties flush with the plywood. Epoxy fillet all of the exterior corners. Reminder: Fillets should be created with epoxy that is made to be a peanut-butter consistency with wood flour. Be sure to get enough epoxy in those corners such that you can later sand them into a round-over.

Jam that same thickened epoxy into all of the kerf-cuts on the nose of the boat. If you can fit a fingernail in it, fill it. This is to ensure you don't get air bubbles when you lay out and wet your fiberglass.

Sand all of the epoxy corners to make them rounded. Sand the nose and the rest of the exterior to remove excess epoxy. Fill-in any nooks or bubbles that didn't get filled with epoxy the first time. Sand flush after curing. Vacuum the entire exterior and then rub it down with Denatured Alcohol to ensure it is as clean as possible and ready for waterproofing. Waterproof the Exterior: Cut, layout, and wet-out strips of fiberglass tape all along the corners of the hull.

Try and keep air-bubbles to a minimum and wet the entire thing out from edge to edge. It tends to stay put once wet, but keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't wonder.

Lightly sand all of the edges to get them somewhat flush with the hull panels. Don't sand the rounded corners at all, as it's too easy to accidentally sand through the fiberglass at this point. Hit them with a handheld sanding pad if need be. Just light sanding is all that is required, knocking down any obvious problem areas. Layout and wet-out the pre-cut sheets of fiberglass for each hull section one by one.

Repeat until the entire hull is covered in glass and epoxy is cured.

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