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Other drawbacks include increased cost and whether or not they are even available on smaller trailers. It supplies the strength needed to hold the weight of your boat and the stability needed to tow your unit safely. There are currently three options available when it comes to construction material: painted steel, galvanized steel and aluminum. Painted steel are excellent basic trailers and will hold up well when maintained properly and used in fresh water.
Although strong, a painted steel trailer will corrode quickly is exposed to salt or brackish water so this should be avoided. Galvanized steel is as strong as painted steel and, thanks to the exterior zinc coating, far more resistant to corrosion than painted steel.
Even with this protection galvanized steel will eventually rust, however, with proper care these trailers can be used in both salt and freshwater environments.
Aluminum is not only resistant to corrosion it is also lighter in weight than either of the other options. This makes it an excellent choice for saltwater and allows transportation by a wider range of vehicles. While corrosion will eventually occur, it is more easily addressed without permanent damage. Like the frame material hardware must be strong enough to withstand the tortures of use while still being protected from corrosion.
Unfortunately, aluminum is not a viable option when it comes to hardware. While it may be lighter and more resistant to corrosion aluminum is not a strong as steel, especially when placed under the stress normal for axles, u-bolts etc. For this reason, most hardware is either steel or galvanized steel. If using your trailer in saltwater it is important to remember that mixing unlike metals will increase corrosion. You may need to attach zincs to the trailer to provide additional protections.
If you are concerned about having long lasting, dependable lighting it is important you select models that include two features � DOT approved and submersible. The first is required for safe, and legal, operation on roadways. The second is necessary to avoid costly replacement costs every time you launch or retrieve your trailer and forget to unplug the lights.
The trend today is towards LED lighting, which increases durability and life expectancy. However, it is important to remember that LED lights will cost more and are more difficult to replace when they eventually burn out. Regardless of which lighting option you select, even if submersible and LED equipped, it is recommended that you shut off and unplug your trailer lights before submerging the trailer. Even lights that are submergible are not truly waterproof and when the hot bulbs hit the cold water it is likely damage will occur.
This answer to this question depends less on your boat than on where you boat, specifically where you launch or retrieve your boat. Although rollers are more common on larger boats, and certainly make their launch or recovery easier, their biggest advantage is when you encounter poorly designed ramps.
On steep, well maintained ramps with enough depth close to shore, bunks work fine. However, if using ramps that are shallow, in poor condition or involve tides, rollers will make the entire process much easier.
Even if you have a lightweight boat, such as a jon boat, being able to roll onto the trailer will allow you to avoid backing vehicle too far down the ramp. Plus, the articulating roller assemblies allow boat to be driven on to the trailer with less resistance.
Most are easily repositioned by loosening a few bolts, although the number of assemblies in a roller system will make this a more time-consuming operation. Bunkers should be inspected frequently for rot as the underlying material is usually wood. Rollers need to be lubricated and inspected as well. Rollers can crack and will need to be replaced. Very few small trailers, such as those used with jon boats under 18 ft. They can be added to almost any trailer as either an option or by replacing the bunks with aftermarket rollers.
The tongue, jackstand and winch are three items that are routinely overlooked in terms of their importance.
Even veteran boaters tend to forget how important these three features are and fail to upgrade when doing so would be the difference between night and day when trailering. On many small boats the only option when it comes to the trailer tongue is coupling ball size. Even this is worth considering as it is not difficult to change the coupling unit as it simply bolts on. Why would you change it? Instead of carrying two hitches, or changing the ball, simply change the coupler and you can use one ball for all your trailers.
One of the most useful options on a tongue, if available, is the swing feature. When pinned in place the tongue allows normal towing, when unpinned the tongue can be swung out of the way to allow storage in a small space. All but the smallest trailer needs a jackstand, otherwise you will be unable to lift it onto the hitch when loaded.
However, not all jackstands are created equal. It is highly recommended that you select a jackstand the includes a wheel at the base, rather than a flat plate, and the ability to be swung up and out of the way. The first option makes it much easier to make minor adjustments by hand when trailering or positioning your trailer. The second will allow for safer towing as it lessens the chances your trailer will catch on potholes, pavement edges etc.
Like the tongue a jackstand can be easily replaced or added if you trailer does not already have one. Some new boaters think that a winch is only needed if trailering a big, heavy boat. This is simply not true, and they will soon realize that.
Although it is unlikely you will need an electric winch for a jon boat although they are nice if you are injured, elderly or have other who boat with you who may be unable to operate a hand crank winch you will need a winch just the same.
Otherwise, you will find that man handling even a small jon boat can be difficult. Winches come in many sizes and it is suggested that you select one that has a rating higher than the total weight capacity of the trailer.
This ensures that you will never find the winch under powered. You will also need to select rope, cable or web-strapping to run between the winch and boat. Search Advanced search�.
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It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. They will be able to pivot, but the height won't be adjustable. No matter what country you're in you might want to research is if the trailer needs to be registered. You might have to add clearance lights, etc. Waterproof isn't always, and Mr.
Electricity and Mr. Water don't like each other. Use a good marine grease on the bearings. Next up is to center the new tongue on the frame, clamp it and drill the new holes. The trailer was a bit rusty.
I sprayed it with some rust paint. I painted the tongue with some bedliner spray paint. The above metal was taken from my office chair arms and some old shelve brackets. The bunks themselves are made from 2 2x4x8's, pressure treated. I attached the bunks, added some loops for holding down the boat. The tongue coupler and safety chains were installed and lastly the boat!
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