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Log in or Sign up. Boat Design Net. I use a lot of PL premium polyurethane construction adhesive. I had a formed plywood desk chair base that disintegrated, mostly due to poor design strength, IMO.

So I took some FG tape, the kind you use for drywall. And I covered both sides of the chair bottom plywood with strips of FG tape and used a putty knife to spread PL into the tape. I reinforced the broken area with many layers of FG tape and PL. It turned out great. The PL set up fast, and had to go over a few times with plastic putty knife to press out the bubbles since it swells as it cures.

Now I think you could do the same thing for boat, like covering up wood plywood, wherever you might be glassing. I have an older Egg and the glass on the hip bump out under the windows is failing. Fiberglass cloth for boat building case will take fiberglass cloth for boat building case strips of genuine FG cloth and do the same thing I did to the chair. One big advantage of a polyurethane like PL over epoxy to me is ease of use, cheaper, and PL flexes.

A lot of the original FG covering on this boat is no longer adhered to the underlaying wood, mostly it is just stuck along the edges. If the fiberglass is delaminated there are major structural problems. A cosmetic repair is not going to do it. On the boat it has simply come loose from the wood, so it is like a tight fitting cap of fiberglass-resin laying on the wood. The cabin roofs are still solid not rotten and dont leak.

One of the noticeable failures is where this cap meets the cabin sides. Then you can tell it has come loose and been glued down over the years as a bandaid type repair. Years ago I pulled all the teak off as it fiberglass cloth for boat building case letting water into the screws and top edge where teak molding meets cabin sides and causing rot. Easy enough to repair on the side under the main salon windows.

This is a small area to begin with before doing anything. It simply flows over the bumpout edge and was originally secured with molding top edge and bottom edge.

So the FG there is about 10 feet long and 6 inches in width. I am impressed with how easy and strong the chair worked.

Mixed with glass cloth makes a good combination. Fiberglass cloth for boat building case will flex with the wood so it wont crack. Posting a couple pictures of the repaired chair bottom The bolts broke thru the wood at the rear and the top layer of plywood delaminated from stress of being sat in.

One reason for the failure is a lot of leverage is applied by the chair back where it meets the chair. Not really new I used it about 7 years ago with a quick and dirty canoe I built Never really had a problem with it but it is not the easiest material to fair and leaves a puffed up foamy surface that isn't as waterproof as it is when used as a glue. So it is put it on, then wait a few minutes, repeat to press it down, wait a few minutes fiberglass cloth for boat building case it down, etc Have to do that 3 or 4 times at.

You will hear little popping noises when doing this using the cloth. I found it set quickly when using it with the FG tape. On seams, take some cereal bag plastic and press it down onto the glue and squeeze it to the shape you want, it Fiberglass Panels For Boat Building App will swell up against the plastic and make a smooth surface.

The moisture in the fiber creates the cure. Doing that you can cure it inches. Super dry fibers might consider moistening with some water.

Mostly I have found wood dust has plenty enough moisture just from the Fiberglass Resin For Boat Building Java air likely due to its porous nature. The fiberglass tape must also have air moisture wicked into the strands cause it set up fast.

I have a lot of experience using this also as a wood filler. Mix some with sawdust, preferably the same color wood your working, fill the gouge, take some cereal bag plastic and clamp or press. Painters Tape also works. You will find that when you stain your wood, the appearance is very similar to fiberglass cloth for boat building case wood surface. Epoxy form a glassy blacker look which this wont. PL is definitely a softer glue than epoxy.

I also seal end grain wood and I seal large surface area of wood just with a skim coat of the glue. With that you basically smear it on and use a putty knife to drag the surface.

You want it very. The putty knife will form the layer into the perfect thickness. It will soak into the wood slightly and give it a glossy rubber like shiny coat which is not UV proof. You have to also go back over it with the knife as it will puff up and you want it. Alcohol destroys the undried glue's ability to set.

Given the huge superiority of what is probably a cheaper product epoxywhy use the more expensive stuff and end up with a finish that is less than desirable? Actual strength is quite low. Little stiffness and not as waterproof as would be possible using other methods. Good for a spot repair mid-season because it won't be hard to remove later, but I think that's it. Prove me otherwise but then still easier to use the PL.

I know waterproof for PL, but I have read epoxy does pass water. Now the big one for me and wood is flexibility. I have used epoxy and for what I used it for it always eventually cracked, or cracked and flaked off the wood. I am talking about waterproofing window channels where the sliding window tracks sit. My epoxied repairs failed. I did not use any cloth. If I had used a large amount of cloth and epoxy maybe it would have worked.

For those I ended up using Sanitred Permaflex and it has been easy fix. I bet I could have used PL with some of the wallpaper fiberglass tape. Mostly on this large old wooden egg harbor I am using these goos for sealing out water, the wood structure itself is strong. Also the area under the sliding salon windows the fiberglass coating cracked in a few fiberglass cloth for boat building case and also on the front vberth windows.

I had tried repairing with some new glass and epoxy but after a few years it separated from the wood due to the fiberglass covering has no movement but the underlying wood does. I have not done any heavy large thick epoxy glass cloth layers which might work to entomb the wood but why do that and then price would be very high I think in materials cost of epoxy. I just bought several yards of light ounce woven glass cloth and going to do the PL with glass trick under the sliding windows sometime this year.

I will rip out the existing fiberglass with resin layed on the wood 43 years ago which is slowly failing due to wood moves, then cracks open up and water gets in causing rot and wood warping and water stains on the interior wood work.

The PL with glass cloth will flex, not crack, and be smooth enough to look ok with paint. Sdowney, epoxy is cheaper then PL and other polyurethane construction adhesives, but a considerable.

If you are applying epoxy as a topical treatment, then you aren't using it properly and it's no wonder it has failed. It's not the epoxy's fault if application is flawed. Wood moves unless you encapsulate it. Epoxy is really the only material that can do this successfully. If you fiberglass cloth for boat building case established procedures, you wouldn't have the failure rate you've experienced.

I'm not going to get fiberglass cloth for boat building case a physical properties comparison of the two, as it's well covered in many places, but epoxy fiberglass cloth for boat building case superior in every way measured, including price.

Good luck with your home brews. PARJun 24, Epoxy doesn't normally crack. Whether it's cheaper depends on how you buy your polyurethane. I will agree that epoxy needs a dry substrate which epoxy fiberglass cloth for boat building case seal well to begin with Everything should be dry in there, period. So then I agree, making a case for very flexible but sticky goo. Even that Fiberglass Sheets For Boat Building Zip will suffer a hard life compared to a totally sealed epoxy job. But recognize the poly fix is not going to last a long time.

If you want to do a long lasting job and you may notdo like they do when building new. Almost nobody except some ameteurs builds new with polyurethane adhesive I think.

Epoxy, again, will not crack unless the wood it's applied to is allowed to expand and contract under it. Little can withstand the expansion of hardwood. I believe granite used to be split that way. So that's the issue.

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