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Spray Deck Plans (V2) � DIY Packraft Aug 07, �� A first-time canoe builder with modest tool skills can build an excellent craft. Unlike most forms of boat building, a cedar-strip canoe is very forgiving in its construction. Do It Yourself! Step 3. Cut Poster Board Templates Mark the location of the screws that hold the inwales and decks to the hull so you can screw the outwales on Author: Bruce Kieffer. Oct 15, �� Anyway, look for another post dealing with canoe spray decks to appear later this evening. It will be a slightly different style attachment, but it will go through the bulk of the cover construction process. clarion. October 15, , pm #5. well done Dave Thanks for taking the time to post the descriptions and pictures of how you did it. Feb 16, �� Spray deck Post Feb 17, #6 T I just use a deck over the bow as far as the front edge of the front seat and mine is secured with press studs, obtainable from most camping suppliers.
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Alternatively you could go with any other seating arrangement you chose including; plywood ; weaving a seat into the frame; an old lawn chair, etc. I think this canoe would work reasonably as a single person row boat with a central seat and six and a half to seven feet oars.

Notionally there is a bit more rocker than required but this can come in useful when rowing because of the shifting center of gravity. Trim off excess wood. Sand and paint before putting in water.

You also need to ensure your epoxy or polyester resin does not have any Amine blush or wax left on the surface because paint does not stick to that. Some epoxies like the Botecote epoxy I used is not prone to those problems.

Polyester resin always has a wax residue on the surface, which allows it to cure properly. The paint and colours I am using here are the product of careful selection from the back of my cupboard of leftover paints and from the miss-tint and return section of my local hardware store. All are just ordinary exterior house paints. The undercoating was applied in two coats, one watered down and one full strength. The outside is Canadian Pine.

The trim gunwales and seats is from a "computer prediction" which apparently didn't because it had been returned. Remember to wait after painting for slightly longer than the "touch dry" time before sticking it in the water as paint takes a good while longer to cure fully before being at its full hardness and may re-emulsify i. A quick dip to christen it should not be too much of a problem but painting the day before a week long canoeing trip is probably going to end in tears.

Total weight after painting was about 29 kilograms or about 64 pounds. Now put your life jacket, PFD or whatever else you call it on, put your canoe in the water and paddle it. My son is responsible for the name "Neef the Canoe". The theoretical way to paddle a two seater canoe is with one person in each seat using single bladed paddles but I found using my double paddles quite easy.

The shorter store bought 7 foot long double paddle required more leaning over to get it in the water and clear the sides but the home made seven and a half foot paddle with the smaller blades cleared the sides easily and made the boat scoot along easily. If you read some paddle fitting guides they fit the paddle to the person but you have to fit the boat as well. The official way to paddle a canoe like this with one person in it is to sit in the front seat facing backwards.

Being perverse I tried paddling from the back seat facing forward and found the comfort of the back rest seemed to compensate for the slight extra nose out of wateredness. Some of that nose out of wateredness is a product of the even rocker in the bottom of the canoe, as the floor of the canoe traces a smooth roughly circular arc.

More sophisticated designs like Mik Storer's Quick Canoe tend to have a flat spot in the middle, curving up more abruptly at the end. The wind was gusty rather than than continuously strong and individual gusts woud catch one end of the canoe or other swinging it about, or weathervaning it a bit. No boat is perfect - even the best of them are just an accumulation of compromises till something convenient pops out.

One of these days I will bring an extra camera operator so we can see how good the trim is with me in the back and my son in the front and vice versa and with extra gear etc. A foregripe is more or less the same thing at the front.

A historical debt is also owed to the book 'Building the 6 hour canoe' by Richard Butz I have never read the book myself but many of the web pages above acknowledge their debt to the book. Given the extra seats and things I have included I doubt my version could be made in 6 hours. Disclaimers and warnings You should realise by now that this is a small boat designed for use in sheltered waters. Please follow all local regulations as for recreational boating. Above all be sensible about the conditions, your abilities and the abilities of your children.

Children should be schooled in water safety and taught to swim. You are legally responsible for your own actions and the supervision of children in and around water. Water is dangerous and cold water more so. I would caution you to wear appropriate floatation vests when canoeing, especially if you have to share your water with power boats. Be careful with sharp tools, power tools, glue and splinters of wood. No ukuleles were harmed in the writing of this instructable.

Reply 7 years ago on Introduction. The West Mersey Duck punt is a sail boat with very similar dimensions. Add outriggers and lots of reserve buoyancy as well if you feel the need for safety. Reply 3 years ago. The dimensions are a simple consequence of the frame and the length of the boards we started with.

The mid frame was 32 inches across the bottom and 39 inches across the top. So adding the thickness of our materials makes the canoe just over 32 inches or mm wide at the bottom and around 40inches or mm across the top.

The lengths of the sides are about 16 feet but because they are bent the end to end length is about 3inches shorter making the length 15ft 9 inches or mm. The bottom length of the sides was 4inches shorter at both ends and this makes the bottom 15 ft 1inch or mm end to end. Thee are almost as many ways to cut the bottom as there are ways to cut.

I used a Router after gluing the bottom on. I have seen people who trace the bottom shape, cut it out with an ordinary saw, and then use stitch and glue or screw block and glue.

I am unfamiliar with the fevicol product.. It looks like a contact type of adhesive so it might be OK for tasks like gluing the gunwales on. It might be OK if you use the external chine method of the Lazy weekend canoe. Perhaps give it a try on some scrap wood or on a scale model and see how it performs. Epoxy is best. Polyester resin was used for years before epoxy got cheaper and many people still use it because it is easier to get. On some of my more adventurous builds I have used polyurethane glues.

This canoe would be fine for most normal adults as it notionally has a workable capacity of around lb. If your two adults weigh considerably more than this I suggest that you either find two other adults or get them to lose some weight. In any case there is a fair amount of leeway you will just have a bit less wiggle room. So for example if they weigh lbs rather tan they will have an inch or so less freeboard. It is quite stable as far as canoes go, being 32 rather than 24 inches wide like similar 2 sheet canoes.

As far as low current goes, I have not run the numbers on it but this canoe is reasonably streamlined. As long as the current is not too strong you should be fine.

My costs in Australian dollars may not reflect your local conditions and since Masters Hardware closed they dont even reflect my costs anymore. The 12 by 41 meranti for the seat bottoms is 2. The paint used was mainly leftovers. Buying new would cost about 50 to depending on quality and if you can get misstint.

Reply 4 years ago. I am not sure how much I used precicely because I just bought a 30 meter roll and used what I needed and had some left over. Estimating at 4. I had one of these, I bought built from a retired MFG boat builder. His modifications were slightly deeper keel, aggressively taller angle at waterline between the bottom section and gunwale section , no center cross support, adding a rib instead, and seats directly on the bottom.

The top of canoe was covered with 3 pieces of canvas, with velcro openings at seating positions. That part of the clip can be seen in other pictures. Small diameter cord is used to attach the shock cord that tensions the cover to the glip. This is where you adjust the tension on the shock cord to get it how you want it. These are part of the deck.

Shock cord around the front of the boat helps pull the coaming forward and helps seat the clips. However, the combination of the gunwale lips, coaming shape, and thwart clips are sufficient to hold the deck in place without any other attachments. These are offered by various retailers under different names. They come in two different sizes.

I used the larger size on this deck. To attach a knob, a hole is drilled in the hull, the stainless steel machine screw is inserted through the knob and through the hull, the fender washer is placed over the screw on the inside of the hull, and the assembly is secured using a nyloc nut.

This shows one set of five. The knob closest to the end is mounted just behind the flotation tank. The knob closest to the center is mounted approximately 6" between the thwart and the end of the boat. The center knob is halfway between the two end knobs, and the other two are midway between the center knob and the end knobs. These are not necessary, but are there in case I want to lash in flotation bags or gear. The second reason for doing them, and doing them myself, was to one-up my friend MikeMcCrea, who was my source for the idea.

He got the idea from Dan Cooke. Thanks, guys, and it would have been a lot less work if I had just copied your idea. I did two versions of the inside lacing clips - this is the first version.

Normally the cover would lie flatter, but I screwed up on this one and got some ripples in it. I used. But I think the knobs are more secure. Your efforts are inspiring.

DIY question : Does Velcro high strength fastener industrial? I am of the same mind as Mike on the partial covers for solo canoes. I sure would like to do an Assateague camper trip next spring and a set of partial covers for my Magic seem to be a doable winter project. Jim And would Gore-Tex be overkill?

I never used the end units so far but the center many times. I took an unexpected swim in a fast moving river and only lost gear not stored under the cover. Easy to make although not as easy as Cliff wrote.

I never sewed anything before so it was learning as I sewed. Home made skirt is possible. Sprayskirt My paddledry canoe cover uses vynel hooks instead of snaps. So you have to drill far less holes in the canoe. You can use the inside to add eyelets for lasshing down gear. I had to drill a total of 12 Diy Canoe Rack For Truck Zip Code for my cover.

The hooks are held on with bolts and washers and so they are easily replaced in the field. The hooks hold onto an intergrated cord in the cover. I like it a lot better than my old snap spray cover. If you want pictures just email me.

But seriously� I was just kidding about the Gore-Tex. No plans for a center cover and skirt. What is the group-think on fabric: Coated pack cloth?

Coated oxford?

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