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Boat building in fiberglass news letter boat plans for boat building Many boats are designed with a �shoe-box� joint where the hull and deck have mating flanges, or overlap one another. Often mechanical fasteners such as screws or through-bolts are used to Building Fiberglass Boat Plug Guide secure the parts together, in addition to the use of a chemical bonding agent and sealant like methyl methacrylate or 3M , which also makes the joint water-tight. Sep 19, �� The plug�s shell is covered with polyester resin and ounce fiberglass cloth. Five or six layers of polyester resin follow with a final coat of primer to give a good sanding base. When it is prepared for making the mold, the plug is covered with release wax, gelcoat, and resin-wetted fiberglass .
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We have posted an example of making a plug from scratch and taking it all the way through making a mold here. In that example we used a foam core to make the body, mounted it to plywood to make the flange, and glassed over it to provide a stable surface to fair over. We have used MDF to make plugs, high density foam, styrofoam, body filler, and other materials. For large parts often a framework is built and then layered with foam, fiberglass, and body filler before priming and finishing.

To make a fiberglass mold from an existing part, we will normally mount the part on a backing board of some sort. Generally speaking, we build all our molds with flanges, assuming that at some point we will want to use them in a closed-molding or vacuum infusion process. It is much easier to build flanges into the fiberglass mold from the start than to do it later.

Mold flanges should be a minimum of 6" with 8" being preferable. Mount the part to the backing board by whatever means available and necessary. Hot glue is one of our preferred go-to's as it sets up quickly and is usually removable, however, if you are dealing with elevated temperatures hot glue will not work. Once the part is mounted on your backing Building Fiberglass Boat Plug Jump board fill and fillet any gaps or transitions between the part and the backing board so that your plug becomes one unit.

The surface quality of your plug and your backing board will be reflected in the gelcoat of the mold. It will not get any better, only worse. Before proceeding, bring the surface finish up to the level you desire in the finished composite part. With this type of plug we generally recommend using paste wax and PVA as the mold release. The PVA will make a physical barrier in between the plug and the gelcoat of the fiberglass mold.

This provides a little extra protection to the finished part you are using as the plug. Once the plug is refined to the surface finish desired and mold release has been applied, it is time to begin constructing the fiberglass mold. The materials typically used for this are: gelcoat, polyester resin iso tooling resin , fiberglass cloth or fiberglass mat.

When making a carbon fiber mold you will use: carbon fiber, epoxy surface coat, and epoxy. First apply the gelcoat, preferably with a spray gun to a thickness of 20mils wet 0. Allow the gelcoat to cure until it is firm but tacky to the touch.

The original roof had a sunroof in it so we welded this in and bondo the gap. The mold was complex and was make up of 7 parts the last part to be mold was the part with the sunroof. Presumably this line can only occur after gel coat is sprayed and before the first laminate is cured. I am a bit lost on this one. Nick F , Dec 8, The plug that cracked was plywood and cedar.

That thing danced all over! I also think that when the rains came, the floor moved a tad causing more grief. Sometimes we pre-coated with resin before Duratec. I never really saw a difference either way. Seemed to me like more work with no visible benefit. Could be wrong. As for the styrene attacking the Bondo. I wouldn't say it can't. It seems to attack everything. I'd watch the heat though. What are you using to build the mold? Any of that fancy non-shrink stuff? Wynand N , Dec 9, Wow she certainly look great when its all done!

I bet your pleased. Again it seamed to be this love hate relationship we have with boats! I bet it is worth all the pain and effort when you set out on her for the first time. Nick F , Dec 9, I was a firm hater of PVA when all this started. As far as I was concerned it was nothing but snake oil. Seeing you've read the Dart blog, you can see how much trouble we've had getting molds off plugs. Mostly its been picking bits of plug out of molds.

We followed all sorts of black magic release formulas. When we were doing the bulkheads we had all these plugs complete at one time, ready to make molds.

The first one we did with a bunch of coats of wax, full moon, what have you. Stuck like glue. We had to chip the plug out of the mold. The second one, we did the wax, then wiped it down with a wet rag of PVA.

Mold popped right off the plug. From then on we've wiped all the plugs down with PVA and all the molds have all popped right off. From a hater of PVA I'm now a big proponent of the stuff. Its also the only thing I've found that works repeatedly with the aluminum molds I use for the simple stereos.

Heck I'm coating the inside of my shoes with it. Now in the evening when I get home, they pop right off! Thanks and yes, I'm really pleased! Last edited: Dec 9, Do not trust wax only and also had expensive damage to molds in the past. PVA is magic and as you said, moldings just pops out.

If a bit sticky, we just make and small a few openings somewhere between mold and molding with small wooden wedges, get the hosepipe and feed water into the mold and the moldings just pops loose and floats. Wynand N , Dec 10, Still no brand names of release systems used. In the USA, contact Zyvax. Most release systems these days are so slippery, that pre-release is more of a problem then no release.

A coat of paste wax will solve that. Herman , Dec 10, Jim, why sponge on PVA and not sprayed. Not that spraying has been eazy to do without a little texture but seems like a sponge would leave more "tracks".

BTW Thanks for posting your trials and tribs, you give us little infusors hope. Last edited: Dec 10, Professional Boatbuilder had a good article on spraying PVA, long, long time ago. It is supposed to be on a CD which holds all issues up till a given moment, when they stopped making the CD.

I do have the article, though. Using the hints and tips in the article, I managed to spray PVA flawlesly on a plug. I do recomment a heavy charge of ink though, otherwise you have not a clue of what you are doing. And applying a thin layer of wax on the PVA supposedly would create a very smooth surface again never tried myself. We wipe it PVA on because we get a smoother surface, more glossy.

The amount we put on there, you can't even see. Spraying made the part's finish look dull. Also, it seems a lot easier to just have a jar with a wet PVA rag in it than setting up some spray equipment. I can't see how you could wax PVA. Seems to me like that would rub the stuff right off. We try not to touch it once its on the mold.

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