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51 Viking ships ideas | boat building, wooden boats, viking ship Jan 18, �� The most basic form of ship model is made with a solid hull. There are several ways to create a solid hull using prototype ships lines plans; for smaller sized models, cutting and shaping the hull from a single block of wood is the easiest method, and will be explained in this article. SHIPMODELL: handcrafted boat and ship models. Ship model plans, history and photo galleries. Ship models of famous ships. Advices how to build. Modelers from Hungary. Oslo. Until , Oslo was like any other Norse town (many wooden buildings together used for varying purposes), but in , a fire burned down all of Oslo. Because of the fires, the King Christian IV moved Oslo west and ordered that all buildings in the city be built of stone or brick to prevent fires. Also to prevent fires, the streets were wide and met at right angles.
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Sitting on top of the timber sheet is a vac-form plastic box with a removable clear lid. The box has six compartments holding a few loose wooden pieces, rigging cord, as well as the metal fixtures and fittings for the Drakkar. The small number of loose wooden pieces are for the cleats. These just need a little final shaping before use. A large bag of metal shields is included, with their respective bosses and timber details cast in situ.

They have also been given an aged finish, but I would carefully paint these to make them look more realistic. A single anchor is provided in metal, utilising a wooden stock, and a small length of brass chain is provided for this. The casting here is very nice and when painted, should really look the part. As Viking Drakkar were of a very shallow draught, the mast needed something substantial to hold it in place. Under the deck would have been a keelson to locate the base of the mast, but above deck, this was achieved via a hefty wooden block.

That had a wedge as part of its structure. As far as I can tell, these were called the mastfish and wedge, respectively. As Building A Wooden Viking Ship Management well as two sizes of rigging cord for standard and running rig, a piece of sailcloth is also included. You will need to make the sail yourself, including the diagonal strips that run at 90 degrees to each other.

You need to sew along the edges after folding them in, replicating the looping stitch that should be seen. Aging the sail can be done with the Building A Wooden Viking Ship In age-old method of soaking in tea, should you wish. Only a little is needed, and you can gauge the finish on a test piece as the colour develops when you remove from the solution. Also included is a chest that can be sat on the deck as extra detail.

This is cast from a cream-coloured resin. Amati include an 8-page basic instruction manual for this model, guiding you through the principle steps of the model and explaining the various key areas of construction.

Illustrations are in line drawing format and are clear to understand, despite the Italian text. Of course, a plan is also included for the model which describes things in greater detail, including the rigging stages. This is also typically easy to understand and also contains the shapes for a good number of kit parts, so if you were to screw up, then with a little extra timber, you can right your wrongs.

Amati has designed this kit to be relatively straightforward and they have succeeded. My sincere thanks to Amati for sending this kit out for review here on MSW. Excellent review, thank you. It certainly makes me consider this as a future build, given my Norwegian heritage. I'll look forward to your build. Just started this Viking Ship. If you have any advice or additional photos, please send.

My email address is fxitgood aol. A very interesting build , especially as I intend to build one myself.

I only wish it were a little larger specifications say around 2ft to 2ft 6" in length. As you say you consider this to be the best on offer of this type of longship , is there any other model you would recommend? Out of curiosity , what thickness are the keel and bulkheads and also dimensions of the planking?

Ok, off the top of my head, I don't know the thickness of the keel and bulkheads, but I would've thought between 3mm and 4mm. As for other Viking vessels that are available, you're in real luck as I have some Viking stuff coming tomorrow from Dusek Models, and I'll be doing an in-box review on MSW.

I'm not sure what will be in the box yet, but I have a rough idea. Just for extra pieces to add to the model for a little authentic showing. My missus just got me this kit as something to do in between doing the vanguard she likes the Vikings series.

I know this might be a long shot. My grandpa was a wooden ship builder, I'm a model builder as well but styrene. One of the kits that my grandma gave me after his passing is this kit. Can anyone point me to where I can find the instructions for this kit? You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL.

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild NRG is just right for you. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build.

The Journal is available in both print and Building A Wooden Viking Ship 3d digital editions. Go to the NRG web site www. Traders and Dealers Reply to this topic Start new topic. Recommended Posts. When you are sure the registration marks are lined up perfectly, tape the two halves of the plan together where the second half overlaps the first. Now, as shown in Figure 2, line up a metal straight-edge to the two registration marks and cut through the two plan sheets.

This will remove the plan overlap so you have two halves as in Figure 3 that can now be taped edge to edge. Cut the sheer side view and waterline top view plans apart, but leave some spare paper outside the lines you will later saw to. Use a pencil as in Figure 4 to bring the section lines on each plan to the edge of the paper.

One of the best types of wood to use for the hull is basswood. It is fine-grained and carves and sands easily. If you cannot find a block thick enough for the entire hull you may have to glue together thinner pieces.

Avoid this if you can as the glue is often harder than the basswood, and causes problems when sanding. Other types of wood that will work include Poplar, Aspen, and knot-free pine, but all those are less desirable than basswood. Once you have your block of wood, make sure you have at least one square corner, see Figure 5.

The two sides that are square to each other will be the bottom and side that will rest on the saw table when you are cutting. Draw the center-line for the waterline plan on the square side of the block that you want to be the bottom of the hull. Measure this line from the square edge rather than trying to find the middle of the block. This will make sure your center-line is square with the square edge, since the block may not be exactly the same width from one end to the other.

Line up the waterline plan with the center-line you just drew, and mark the station lines on the block, see Figure 6. Using your square, continue the section lines up the other square side of the block. Carefully draw the center-line up both ends and across the top of the block. Draw the section lines on the other side and top of the block, being careful to keep them lined up with the two sides you know are square, see Figure 7.

Attach the cutting plans to the NON-square sides we use spray adhesive for this , so the sides you know are square will rest on the saw table when you cut. In Figure 8, the square sides of the block are on the bottom and back sides as seen in the photo. Since the keel is flat for this vessel, we lined up the edge of the keel with the edge of the block when gluing the sheer plan to the block. This eliminates most of the saw cut along the bottom of the hull. Be careful to make sure the section lines match up, see Figure 8.

Using a band saw or a coping saw, make your first cut along the sheer line of the plan, as shown in figure The second cut will be along the bow rabbet. Figure 11 shows the block after these two cuts. Line up the top piece of the block with Building A Wooden Viking Ship Zip Code the bottom piece, and tack them back together with small nails.

Leave the nails sticking out enough that you can easily remove them after the next saw cut.

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