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Olly Epsom explains how and why! It will almost always be possible to buy a petrol outboard for less. So why did I do it? Well, my motivations were as follows:. Because I have longer-term aims of making the system fully remote controlled essentially a drone, perhaps for wildlife photography , and for that I needed complete mastery of the control system, which is achievable if I build it myself.

To embark on a project like this requires a basic knowledge of electronics and mechanics, but should be within reach of most practical people with a willingness to learn.

The voltages are low enough that they should not present an electrocution risk but take all appropriate precautions when working with electricity and moving mechanical parts. My project utilised computer control and a lot of new-to-me equipment such as touch screens, Bluetooth, Arduinos and oscilloscopes. You may wish to structure your project differently � a significant simplification could be made by discarding computer control.

I decided to use the bottom end of a conventional, second-hand outboard motor as the basis of the machine. Above this, in place of the engine would be an electric Build Your Own Outboard Boat Motor 500 motor, directly coupled to the driveshaft. Electronic control systems would be mounted alongside the motor. I settled on a power of about 1kW because it is significantly more than two rowers could achieve and would result in either a fast dinghy, or a dinghy with significant reserve power. Batteries cannot be fully discharged without damage, so to power this for a minimum of 40 minutes at full power would require roughly 1kWh of batteries.

But I am single hard to believe I know! These old engines had very high specification mechanical components and the gearbox in particular was in excellent condition. Usually Build Your Own Outboard Boat Motor 12 they are slightly more efficient than permanent magnet DC motors as well, although in practice this depends entirely on the specific motors being compared. Most motors in this power range run at 48V or above. Likewise battery packs at 48V were more numerous. I settled on lithium-ion batteries due to their high capacity, low weight and high cycling ability.

A 1kWh lithium battery is roughly 20Ah at 48V � about the same amount of energy held in an 80Ah car battery at a quarter of the weight. MacMotor also sent me a speed controller, although that later proved to be less than spectacular and I had to replace it with a larger model.

Arduinos are tiny programmable computers with analogue and digital inputs and outputs. They run on 5V, consume an infinitesimal amount of power, and are of an inherently rugged, tough and reliable design.

As a display I Build Your Own Outboard Boat Motor Job Description initially intended to use a cheap, rugged, reliable two-line, character LCD display of the sort that are well known to work with Arduinos. Whilst not as rugged or tough I was seduced by their sexy colour screens, with the ability to display multiple dials, graphs and buttons. The one I bought came with a battery voltage indicator and miscellaneous switch that I figured might be useful. That said, the better equipped your workshop the better the finished product is going to be and, in addition, costs will reduce because I had to have a few parts manufactured that could be made at home in a good enough workshop.

The first hurdle was to mechanically connect the electric motor to the donor outboard engine. This connection needs to be secure and accurate. I measured up all mounting holes on top of the engine, and the mounting holes on the electric motor, and sketched up a suitable transition plate on the free online CAD software Onshape.

I could have sent it for 3D printing out of plastic. To connect the motor to the driveshaft I asked a friend with a lathe to turn down the end of the approx 11mm spline and put an 8mm thread on it. I did consider collet-type connections or finding a matching female spline but the lathe option was easiest for me. The main disadvantage of this, however, is that every time the motor is removed it brings the driveshaft with it, which makes reassembly quite a faff.

The lathed spline screwed nicely into the 8mm female thread on the motor shaft, and a lock-nut completed the union. Testing the assembled electronic components on the bench. Connect the three thick phase wires from the motor to the appropriate colours on the motor controller. These are usually coloured green, yellow and blue.

Connect the sensor plug on the controller to the sensor socket on the motor. This will have at least five wires. Usually red and black 5V and ground and green, yellow and blue which take the signals from the three hall sensors in the motor.

Connect the red wire on the throttle to 5V usually available on one of the numerous outputs of the motor controller , the black wire on the throttle controller to ground on the motor controller, and the third wire could be any colour to the speed input of the controller, which could also be any colour. Finding which wire does what in a manual-free wasteland is very challenging. Some controllers may not have a 5V supply for the throttle and you may need to provide this separately via a 48V-5V DC converter.

This should not daunt you as they are easily available. In addition most controllers have a reverse function which requires connection of a switch. One such arrangement is shown in the schematic diagram above of the simplest possible control system. Now is the moment of truth. Connect the battery positive and negative to the motor controller positive and negative, and give the throttle a twist.

At this point, assuming the motor turns, you are essentially home and dry. All that remains is as many weeks of refinement as you care to deploy. Transition plate and connection between electric motor and outboard leg. A word of warning: neither the motor, controller, Nextion display, charger or battery came with a shred of documentation. I used a multimeter and figured it out for myself. Zipping around Largs with the home-built electric outboard.

Olly Epsom is a chartered engineer specialising in renewable energy, particularly wave power. He bought Radioactivity, a UFO 27 which he cruises and races, in Based in Scotland, Olly enjoys the outdoors, promoting science and engineering at local schools, and running his own consultancy company, Moose Pyll Engineering. Skip to content �. Home All latest posts. For most people, building your own electric outboard motor is unnecessary, time consuming, and may well result in a product that is both inferior to, and more expensive than a new commercial electric outboard.

Well, my motivations were as follows: 1. There may be other reasons to embark on such a project, and if so, fill your boots. Unused petrol engine parts. Propeller and drive are to be retained. Original cooling impeller can be discarded. Scruffy, but well-built 2hp Johnson. The old outboard motor stem. Introduction DIY electric engine controller system.

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