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Electric motors for model boats May 11, �� He is after high efficiency but you could utilise some of the technology to your advantage, like the long flexible external drive shaft (put the electric motor forward in a splash-proof box) - - maybe use a cheaper propeller or make your own 2 blade similar to that used by model aircraft but rotate at to rpm in the water, salvage a.
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Greybeard 38 - The movement upon Fantom. You'd hatred to have which flay up when starting over an impediment. Art as well as qualification actions have been good ways to place their energies to have operate of, or each alternative outward space, a device lease store will suggest. I don't cruise numhers a dovetail corner is aesthetically great. Initial we will have to pattern carcass as well as keel.

The gear box is your next hurdle! Flex shaft is also an option. Maybe a heat and air motor from a car?? Or go to Wal Mart and get a trolling motor prop. If you have a pet idea and an appropriate electric motor, "suck it and see" just for the fun of it Why buy when there are soooo many commercial options? Ahhh now this is a different story, and far more in Rick Willoughby's field, where I would consider him to be an expert, be guided by him He is after high efficiency but you could utilise some of the technology to your advantage, like the long flexible external drive shaft put the electric motor forward in a splash-proof box - - maybe use a cheaper propeller or make your own 2 blade similar to that used by model aircraft but rotate at to rpm in the water, salvage a controller from a busted electric outboard or make one up and salvage battery packs from busted electric drills if the drill is busted the battery pack could still be OK, and the charger When messing with the packs from the drills, wear safety glasses and keep a fire extinguisher handy!

They pack a lot of quick power. This is what I meant in post 4. Found it in the shed today looking for something else. I made it at least 15 years ago, maybe At the time it seemed OK, now I would have shaped it a bit differently. There also was a controller with a joy stick, but I'm afraid it went into the dumpster.

JPG File size: CDK , Aug 29, Try these. I did a little "kids boat" with an electric scooter motor, inboard, direct drive through the skeg. I built one using an old broken 8hp output, replaced the gas engine with a 2. For a little boat, you might just try a cordless drill as-is, attach a prop to the drill and hold it underwater, just might work fine in water. You must log in or sign up to reply here.

Show Ignored Content. Because I have longer-term aims of making the system fully remote controlled essentially a drone, perhaps for wildlife photography , and for that I needed complete mastery of the control system, which is achievable if I build it myself.

To embark on a project like this requires a basic knowledge of electronics and mechanics, but should be within reach of most practical people with a willingness to learn.

The voltages are low enough that they should not present an electrocution risk but take all appropriate precautions when working with electricity and moving mechanical parts. My project utilised computer control and a lot of new-to-me equipment such as touch screens, Bluetooth, Arduinos and oscilloscopes. You may wish to structure your project differently � a significant simplification could be made by discarding computer control.

I decided to use the bottom end of a conventional, second-hand outboard motor as the basis of the machine. Above this, in place of the engine would be an electric motor, directly coupled to the driveshaft.

Electronic control systems would be mounted alongside the motor. I settled on a power of about 1kW because it is significantly more than two rowers could achieve and would result in either a fast dinghy, or a dinghy with significant reserve power. Batteries cannot be fully discharged without damage, so to power this for a minimum of 40 minutes at full power would require roughly 1kWh of batteries.

But I am single hard to believe I know! These old engines had very high specification mechanical components and the gearbox in particular was in excellent condition. Usually they are slightly more efficient than permanent magnet DC motors as well, although in practice this depends entirely on the specific motors being compared.

Most motors in this power range run at 48V or above. Likewise battery packs at 48V were more numerous. I settled on lithium-ion batteries due to their high capacity, low weight and high cycling ability. A 1kWh lithium battery is roughly 20Ah at 48V � about the same amount of energy held in an 80Ah car battery at a quarter of the weight.

MacMotor also sent me a speed controller, although that later proved to be less than spectacular and I had to replace it with a larger model. Arduinos are tiny programmable computers with analogue and digital inputs and outputs. They run on 5V, consume an infinitesimal amount of power, and are of an inherently rugged, tough and reliable design. As a display I initially intended to use a cheap, rugged, reliable two-line, character LCD display of the sort that are well known to work with Arduinos.

Whilst not as rugged or tough I was seduced by their sexy colour screens, with the ability to display multiple dials, graphs and buttons. The one I bought came with a battery voltage indicator and miscellaneous switch that I figured might be useful. That said, the better equipped your workshop the better the finished product is going to be and, in addition, costs will reduce because I had to have a few parts manufactured that could be made at home in a good enough workshop.

The first hurdle was to mechanically connect the electric motor to the donor outboard engine. This connection needs to be secure and accurate. I measured up all mounting holes on top of the engine, and the mounting holes on the electric motor, and sketched up a suitable transition plate on the free online CAD software Onshape.

I could have sent it for 3D printing out of plastic. To connect the motor to the driveshaft I asked a friend with a lathe to turn down the end of the approx 11mm spline and put an 8mm thread on it. I did consider collet-type connections or finding a matching female spline but the lathe option was easiest for me. The main disadvantage of this, however, is that every time the motor is removed it brings the driveshaft with it, which makes reassembly quite a faff.

The lathed spline screwed nicely into the 8mm female thread on the motor shaft, and a lock-nut completed the union. Testing the assembled electronic components on the bench. Connect the three thick phase wires from the motor to the appropriate colours on the motor controller.

These are usually coloured green, yellow and blue.

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