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Laser Sailing Tips: Reading the Wind on the Water - ISA Vapor pressure is constant when there is an equilibrium of water molecules moving between the liquid phase and the gaseous phase, in a closed container.. The vapor pressure of a liquid is the point at which equilibrium pressure is reached, in a closed container, between molecules leaving the liquid and going into the gaseous phase and molecules leaving the gaseous phase and entering the liquid. Vapor pressure (or vapour pressure in British English; see spelling differences) or equilibrium vapor pressure is defined as the pressure exerted by a vapor in thermodynamic equilibrium with its condensed phases (solid or liquid) at a given temperature in a closed myboat339 boatplans equilibrium vapor pressure is an indication of a liquid's evaporation rate. It relates to the tendency of particles to. Apr 15, �� Pressure water systems Your boat�s pressurized freshwater system is fairly simple, but it can cause some headaches if you don�t know the basics when commissioning it. Most systems have self-priming electric water pumps that lift water from the tank. These pumps can Author: David W. Shaw.
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Freshwater Tank: We think that rigid holding tanks are best, but flexible tanks can work in an odd-shaped or inaccessible space. Tank size depends on the space available and your needs anywhere from one to ten gallons per person per day might be consumed. Make sure your tank's deck fill has a tight seal and that your tank's vent terminates the boat so your drinking water supply won't be fouled by outside water.

Be sure the hose you choose can handle 35�40psi and is made from FDA-approved nontoxic materials. Hot-water hoses must be reinforced to withstand high temperatures.

Strainer: Any electric pump should be protected by a strainer or in-line filter. Water system and washdown pump manufacturers usually sell strainers that can be attached upstream from their pumps. Accumulator Tank: A sealed air chamber combined with a water reservoir provides expansion volume to reduce pump cycling from minor pressure changes and give a steady flow. Larger tanks can store enough water to eliminate pump cycles when modest amounts of water are needed.

Until a few years ago, this was the last word for functional pressure water systems aboard. Municipal Water Inlet: By connecting a drinking-water-safe garden hose between a municipal water inlet and a faucet on shore, you'll have a continuous source of pressurized water at the dock without ever having to fill the tank or operate the pump.

To protect and isolate your pump and accumulator tank from potentially damaging high pressure, install a one-way check valve as shown in the diagram. Water Heater: The water heaters we carry can be operated at the dock by AC power or underway by drawing heat from your Blue Water Sailing Boat Quiz engine's cooling water.

Even a small, 6-gallon heater is enough to provide hot water for washing dishes or taking a short shower. Higher capacity pumps with large accumulator tanks will provide the most home-like shower. When adding an interior shower, it is necessary to have a shower sump so you don't fill up your dry bilge with slimy water every time you bathe.

Add a water system purifier to your tank periodically to inhibit the growth of algae. The clarity of your water will improve and your system won't grow a permanent green lining.

Boat owners who venture far offshore should consider adding a watermaker to their freshwater system. Use high quality hose and hose clamps and inspect the entire freshwater system frequently. Sailboat owners should consider installing a siphon break in the drain lines of sinks, or shutting off sinks' thru-hulls when not in use.

It's possible to heel over to where the sink is below the waterline, setting up a siphon that can flood the interior of the boat.

We use cookies to optimize site functionality and improve your overall experience. You can change your cookie settings through your browser. To learn more about cookies, please see our Privacy policy. If you were to weigh a one-square-inch cross section of our atmosphere from the surface to its outermost limits almost 70 miles up, it would exert We typically measure atmospheric pressure with barometers, in inches of mercury or in millibar units.

Fourteen point seven pounds per square inch is equivalent to Variations in pressure are due to temperature changes. Warm air expands, becomes less dense and has a lower atmospheric pressure. Conversely, cold air is denser, heavier, and has higher atmospheric pressure readings. If we draw lines on a map to connect spots that have the same or equal pressure, we call these isobars.

Pressure gradient refers to how close isobars are together. Wind speed depends primarily on the pressure gradient. Wind direction depends on the direction of the pressure gradient from high to low, and is influenced or deflected by the rotation of the earth. This deflection, right in the northern hemisphere and left in the southern hemisphere, is known as the Coriolis Effect. The final determination of wind speed and direction is friction; land causes more friction, water less, so you might surmise that winds blow harder over water.

Since uneven heating of the earth causes differences in atmospheric pressure, which generates winds, and the equator is subject to more heat than the poles, it stands to reason that the excess heat at the equator is the basis for our worldwide wind pattern known as the prevailing winds.

Understanding barometric pressure, and knowing that winds runs parallel to isobars, has helped mariners for many years. I stopped the pump and began searching for loose hose clamps. I started with the least accessible ones at the freshwater outlets leading from the two main water tanks to the manifold under the galley sink.

I knew from experience that a season of sailing and motoring, temperature extremes suffered during the winter, and undetected hose deformations at barbed connectors could cause a hose clamp to loosen just enough to allow air to enter a freshwater system without causing an obvious water leak.

Sure enough, some of the hose clamps under the sink were loose. A few minutes later, I flipped the pump back on and heard the heavenly sound of the system charging. Soon air hissed from the galley faucet, followed by a gush of water. My freshwater system was back in action. Most systems have self-priming electric water pumps that lift water from the tank. These pumps can be mounted above the waterline. Some water pumps are not self-priming and must be mounted below the waterline so that fresh water from the tank is always present in the pump body when the pump is turned on.

All freshwater pumps have pressure switches that kick on when pressure drops below a preset level, normally about 30 to 40 PSI. In most systems, an accumulator tank also plays an important role.

These tanks are typically fitted with an internal pre-pressurized air bladder though smaller ones may have no bladder. As water is pumped into the bottom half of the tank, air is compressed in the top half. When you first turn on a faucet, the accumulator tank maintains enough pressure to deliver water without immediately triggering the pressure switch in the water pump. Once pressure in the tank drops low enough, the water pump turns on and recharges the system.

This reduces pump cycling and extends pump life. Another part of the freshwater system you need to pay attention to during spring commissioning is the water heater. You will also need to focus on any water filter or in-line strainer installed in the system. Start with the water tank. Open the inspection port and pump or sponge away any puddles of antifreeze that may be present below the freshwater pickup. Wipe down as much of the inside of the tank as possible with a clean, damp rag to remove any old layers of sediment or algae.

Once your tank is clear of antifreeze, fill it to a quarter of its capacity. If you have multiple tanks, repeat the process. Now turn to the water heater. Chances are it was disconnected from the rest of the system to drain it during winterization. Before you reconnect it, make sure the circuit breaker for the AC heating element is turned off. Put some tape over the breaker switch. Your water heater is probably equipped with a magnesium sacrificial anode.

You should check this every year at this time. Many sailors overlook this and subject the innards of their heaters to damaging galvanic corrosion. Heating elements are also subject to corrosion, so check them as well. Then reconnect the water heater to the freshwater system. All should be sealed with heat-shrink tubing, or at the very least with electrical tape, and none should be loose or obviously corroded.

A loose pump will vibrate excessively, causing noise and possible damage.

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