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Strip Planking Wooden Boat Building.
The plans for the Zip came from Glen-L with a step-by-step instruction manual and full-sized patterns for the transom, frames, gussets, stem, breasthook, and knees. Builders can shorten the boat by 10 percent if they reduce the frame spacing, but Glen-L recommends against lengthening the Zip. There is also an option to either set the boat up as a utility skiff with an open cockpit or as a runabout with decking surrounding two cockpits. I built my boat to the designed length as a runabout. ZIP is a high speed, deluxe sport runabout in the classic style. She furnishes all of the flashing speed, thrills, and performance that one could hope for. Ideally suited for towing water skiers or showing the local lads a clean pair of heels ZIP can also be finished as a utility with a large open cockpit for fishing or general use. With her flaring sides, she is very dry. The.� We hope you find this directory of wooden boat plans and kits a great resource. Please don�t hesitate to contact the designers or kit-producers directly. Boat Plans� Strip-Planked Designs. Our strip-planked kayaks feature full-size plans sets that show all parts at their full size. Night Heron. The Night Heron line is an evolutionary branch of the Guillemots, but Nick took a look back at Greenland Inuit boats for some of the hull shaping inspiration. This boat brings the volume of the hull out towards the ends more for a higher Kits from $ Plans from $ Night Heron - High Deck. This design is exactly the same as the regular deck Night Heron below the sheer line. The deck has been bumped up for a little more leg room and more st.

Strip planking is a form of carvel planking. The hull is built over forms using strips of wood, edge-glued, and edge fastened together. The strips are kept narrow so that there is very little shaping required. With modern epoxy adhesives, it is the glue and not the Free Wooden Boat Plans Plywood Zip fasteners that holds the hull together.

A related method our Stripper uses strips of wood, edge-glued, faired, then coated inside and out with epoxy and fiberglass cloth. In this method the glue joints are less critical as the hull ends as a composite; the wood serving as a core. The glue joints only need to be rigid enough so that the hull can be faired and glass cloth applied without the hull deflecting from shape. Bead and cove is somewhat like a ball and socket. One edge of the wood is concave, the other convex. This method eliminates having to fit each plank to the previous plank.

Longer planks can be made by scarfing two shorter planks. Scarfing involves cutting the ends of the planks on a long bevel, lapping them, and gluing together. The length of the scarf should be at least five times the thickness of the plank. Scarf joints should be glued on a flat surface and allowed to thoroughly cure before installing on the boat. Bead and cove bits are available for shapers and routers, but if you intend to shape your own, it is best to rig up a long table on both sides of you shaper as the long thin pieces can be difficult to handle.

Alternately you can purchase the lumber already milled. The lumber used in the project shown below is bead and cove Western red cedar, ordered from Flounder Bay in Anacortes, WA. No longer in business. With epoxy, nails are redundant. For thinner planks, you may find yourself abandoning fasteners as they are difficult to drive straight in the time allowed by the glue, and many of the nails will come out one side or the other.

Galvanized finish nails are frequently used but may not hold if the wood is soft and there is a lot of twist in the plank. In such a case it is best to use ring shank boat nails or clamps.

If using thickened epoxy, the purpose of the fastener is to hold the plank in place until glue sets. All of our strip planked boats use temporary forms without permanent frames.

If forms are meant to be temporary, the edges should be covered with polyehtylene to prevent the planking from sticking to forms. It is important that the planking strips be held tight against the form in order to eliminate a lot of unnecessary fairing. It is usually necessary to use temporary fasteners into the forms or clamps to keep the hull shape.

If the forms are plywood usually the case it is best to glue strips of wood around the perimeter of the form and trim to the form contour. This allows you to fasten into wood or provide a place for clamps to grip. If there are to be permanent bulkheads in the hull, the planking can be glued and permanently fastened to them. Protect the surfaces of any permanent bulkheads with polyethylene film, as there is a lot of glue dripping.

Planking can begin at the keel and work toward the sheer or vice versa; or in the middle working toward the keel and the sheer. Any of these methods work, but some may have advantages on specific designs.

If the hull is to be finished naturally, the planking procedure should be chosen for appearance. Natural planking looks best when run parrallel to the sheer. If natural, carefully select planks so that opposite sides match and keep joints tight. When starting at the sheer it is easier to fit the first planks, which is an advantage for first time builders.

The bottom planks become more difficult to fit, as longer and longer tapers are required at the keel. Luckily, with thickened epoxy, exact fits are not absolutely neccessary. If the hull is to be painted this may not matter, however, if the hull is not fiberglassed, the planking pattern will most likely become visible through the paint.

In the case of a strip planked hull, fairing is a process of smoothing out the hull to give it a smoother fair appearance. When the hull is viewed from either end, there should be no visible bumps or depressions. Be careful if using soft woods like cedar. This is why clamping strips are installed on the forms; so that stubborn planks can be pulled into place. Traditionally planked boats cannot be successfully fiberglassed.

The planks will move and something has to give. Strip planking avoids this by using narrow strips with rigid glue bonds. For fiberglassing to be successful, the inside of the hull must be well sealed. Strip Planking. A brief description, not a boatbuilding class Strip planking is a form of carvel planking.

No longer in business To nail or not to nail With epoxy, nails are redundant. Here a cleat has been temporarily attached to the planking to facilitate clamping. Squares of plywood are laid on polyethylene film, nailed through to hold planking to the form.

The planking can be clamped to the form if cleats have been added to the perimeter of the form. Forms All of our strip planked boats use temporary forms without permanent frames. Planking Planking can begin at the keel and work toward the sheer or vice versa; Strip Plank Boat Plans Worksheet or in the middle working toward the keel and the sheer. Fairing In the case of a strip planked hull, Strip Plank Boat Building Plans fairing is a process of smoothing out the hull to give it a smoother fair appearance.

A word about fiberglass Traditionally planked boats cannot be successfully fiberglassed. Comments are closed. Connect with us:. Customer Builds. Copyright Info. Copyright by Glen L Marine Designs. All rights reserved. Mailing Address: East Park Ave.

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