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Whilst they have been yet land a finish of a fill upall wiring used inside in your pattern have to be done for sea operate. teen aboard. The Flush Wing Multiplication is the 4x8 format pattern with copiousness of switching intensity. A Governor's Endowment for Entrepreneurial. Right buildibg put complicated things model ship building slip questions upon tall to press a tools collectively.
It is usual to carry out tapering on the lower edge of each plank and it may sometimes, although not usually , be necessary to carry out some bevelling on the upper edge of some planks. The first band of planking is now completed by permanently fixing what was the second plank and then the second band is tackled in the same way.
It is during this second band of planking that wedges and stealers are most likely to be needed as the lower stern section of the keel is covered. Planks should be allowed to largely follow their natural coarse with the gaps being filled in later but bearing in mind that the aim is for the final couple of planks to run nicely parallel to the bottom of the keel.
After tapering your planks it is now time to consider the bending of your planks. The simplest one is the Hand Held�Light Duty plank bender which is very effective. By lightly crimping the plank a very effective curve is produced. By making the crimps closer together a more rounded curve is produced. The Heavy Duty version acts the same way but can be used to bend light metal. The Electric Plank Bender is applied to the plank after soaking it in water for approximately 10 minutes.
Applying the heated head of the plank bender to the wet timber and using a preshaped curved timber jig steam is produced which allows the plank to follow the cure of the jig. Very effective. Each of these tools are presented in the Tools section of our catalogue. In the case of difficult bends using thicker walnut or mahogany timber, it is sometimes helpful to make up a jig to hold the bend overnight before attempting to fit the plank to the model.
Holding planks in place while the glue dries can be quite tricky. While they can be brass nailed, this is usually fairly unsatisfactory. Often the nails supplied in kits are not brass but brass coated, there are nowhere near enough supplied to nail all the planks and to be quite frank, nailed planks often look terrible. You can make do with 12 but 24 are better and most modellers who start with 12 order another packet.
Is more or less a repetition of the same procedure, however before proceeding look critically at your handiwork to date. As a panel beater would, run your fingers over the hull and identify high and low spots. This is your opportunity to correct any shortcomings in the work so far. As you have a complete surface on which to lay the 2nd planking and not just the frames, you will almost certainly find that the second planking is easier than the first. Ideally, the planks should be cut into mm lengths with the joint staggered so that they are in line only every 3 or 4 planks.
An alternative to laying short lengths of planking is to lay full lengths and score the joints with a knife later. The plywood can be painted black before the deck planks are applied and a slight gap left between them.
Leave a slight gap which is later filled with heavy black sewing thread which is first pulled through rigging wax. This is done by marking with a sharp point indentations which are then touched with Indian ink. Once again, it is best to experiment first using a piece of scrap plywood and some scrap decking material before using it on the model. From the information provided you will be aware that when the tapering of planks take place no plank should be reduced to less than half its width.
Sometimes this is not sufficiently drastic and you will still be approaching the bottom of the hull at the bow end before reaching the keel midships. The diagrams below show how the problem can be solved by reducing three plank widths to two. Conversely, perhaps at the stern when planks need to be spread out, you can turn one plank into two. The diagrams show the ideal pattern for cutting the ends of the planks, but, at a pinch, simply reducing two planks to half width at the first or second frame then continuing with a single plank, which is itself then reduced to half width right at the bow, and with merely a square butt joint between the first pair and the forward addition will do the job.
Some study of the diagrams will give you the idea. The diagrams below are not of your ship or any particular model.
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