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Planking Clamp Use - Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment - Model Ship World�
Hull planking clamps for model ship PLANKING clamps, pear wood, 10 pcs/box. Brand new. EUR � BUILDING PLANK ON FRAME SHIP MODELS by McCarthy, Ron FREE Shipping. Pre-owned. EUR These all-metal planking clamps hold ship model planks tight against the bulkhead until glue dries. The unique stepped clamp design holds the plank against its full surface so you'll get neater, tighter fitting joints, and the knurled metal finger grip makes turning a lot easier. The micro-size wood screw is cast into the finger grip and will hold in bulkheads as thin as mm. 32mm long x mm dia.� I've built a few plank-on-bulkhead ship models and just gotten by -- until I came across these beauties. Frankly, I don't know how I ever got along without them. The knurled grip on the in the screw make them next to almost impossible to drop; The clamp portion is reversible for places where it's difficult to fit the straight clamp which normally butts against the plank. It is highly recommended to every ship modeler, both professional and those making their first steps in the field of ship model making � all of them will definitely benefit from the content of this nice book, if they follow the instructions provided by the author. Views 0 Comments Read more. A ship modelmaker's manual. There are so many books available the ship model making available today that the readers are offered a great choice. Subject books cover a very wide range of different types of vessels and historical periods.� All required plans, line drawings and data tables have also been included by the author - it means that the publication contains absolutely everything the modeler may need to build a perfect ship model.

I used some years ago, I think I still have a few laying around. At least your photo looks like the same thing. I think I just screwed them into the bulkhead- assuming it is thick enough to take them. The problem I had was that the clamping part was some sort of soft metal that did not stand up very long before they were bent back looking more like the 'plastic clamp' in the left had picture of your post.

Eventually, they broke after being straightened out a few times. I have a set of those as well. They work As mentioned they are soft metal, and the clamp part deforms and breaks easily. I substituted mine with cut off bits of limewood and that seems to work just as well. Also, you may wish to put some heat shrink tubing on the "knurled screw" it will save your fingers! I've used them and find them pretty helpful for planking in screwing them into bulkheads.

They worked nicely on the Pegasus, where the bulkheads were in MDF. Like Andy said though, the cross piece is soft metal which bends, and the screws themselves can bend I ruined a couple that got bent. The biggest annoyance is the knurled screw though - they are really brutal on your fingers if you are trying to screw them into something like MDF. Another great way to ruin them is to over torque the thumb screw. I had a couple of clamps that I over torqued and the screw broke free of the knurled bit.

I had to break the thing to get it to detach. When I ordered them they were backordered. This morning I received an email saying they were back in stock and to click the link to proceed with the order. They went up in price and from judging by the replies here and other things I have read, I won't be going ahead with the order.

I'm glad it ended up being back ordered. I have used the plastic ones but screw shaft tends to come loose in the plastic over time. This can be remedied, in some cases, by applying heat and melting the plastic a little so it grips the shaft more tightly.

Pushpins are great on the first planking of a double planked hull but tend to damage the second planking if you are not careful. I designed some of my own using plastic clothes pegs. I have posted the method of making these previously but here is the link fir anyone who has not seen it and may be interested.

It would be great if I could persuade folk to bend planks by steam or dry heat so that they would be shaped to 'sit' nicely along the hull without need for 'persuasion' by screws, clamps or other devices of torture! Hey Druxey, you don't have to convince me. I completely agree with you. I bought a curling iron from Canadian Tire for that exact purpose. It's better than forcing the wood into position. I learned the hard way. Hi Druxey. I have used heat and steam for over 30 years.

However, there are still times, particularly on buff bows where you need something - planking screws - to hold planks in place until glue dries. I can't speak from experience as I only have a couple of years but on my bounty heat and steam just would not cut it some force was required and soaking would be great if it wasent but it was so I'm not yet convinced.

I used to use planking clamps but stopped using them because I found sooner or later I run out of place to attach the clamps on the fames. Now I soak and bend the wood then hold it in place with pin on pre-drilled hole on the frames. I have two types of pins, one slightly thicker than the other. For the thicker pin, I pre-drill a 0. It held its place wel.

After the glue dried I remove the pins. Before sanding the hull, I coated it with white glue to fill up the holes left. I don't find any problem with this procedure. Personally, I don't use the Micromark screws to force the planks at all. I do a lot of soaking and pinning, and on my last build, spiling, to get the planks in a pre-formed positioned so that they don't have to be forced.

I do think it's important to clamp the planks in position while they are glued to get a tight fit though, and this is where I think the Micromark screws as well as other screws, pins, etc. If clamps must be used the clamp designs shown in the Ed Tosti's Naiad books and build logs are the best I have seen to date.

For actual light holding of prebent strips while glue set - still resort to elastic bands with packing and scrap pieces pinned. You can see some pinned scraps ready in the front. I find the pushpins are a trifle heavy for most places and I always drill a pilot. You can use the pinned scrap on final layer but then the pin goes in just off the strip and I always pack the end of the scrap off the strip with a piece of scrap to make the "nip" level. In the end, whatever works for each person is the best way to go, but based on experience of quite a few builders at MSW, if the planks are tapered and spiled or pre-formed using the method Chuck Passaro has described, there really is no need for any clamps or rubber bands.

Carpenters' glue and finger pressure for about seconds is really all that is needed. Any kind of clamp presents the danger of denting the planks, even if using a piece of scrap between the clamp and the plank.

Just one more opinion based on trial and error over the years. Beg to differ slightly -carpenters glue if you mean PVA needs more than tens of seconds to grab securely but indeed not too long. And i think we agree planks should be preshaped and that any kind of "clamping" to actually form the plank as its fixed is unwise. I have found that properly shaped planks hold fine within 30 seconds most of the time, and always within a minute using the "yellow" version of PVA.

It all comes down to making sure the planks are pre-bent and have no spring in them. Well, we did not get a full meter of snow like Binghamton, NY got in the past day or so, but it will be in the 40's Fahrenheit the next couple nights. Actually, most of my modeling years were in New Jersey and it was the same there, albeit with the furnace going in winter. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild NRG is just right for you. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site www.

Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment. Planking Clamp Use. Reply to this topic Start new topic. Recommended Posts. Worldway Posted January 14, Posted January 14, edited. Does anyone use these? If so, I'm curious if their worth the price. I probably should have asked this question before I purchased two packs.

And I'm wondering if you have to predrill or you can just go ahead and screw into the bulwark. Edited January 14, by Worldway. Link to post Share on other sites. Posted January 14, Can you tell if the metal ones look like they are made of a more sturdy metal? Canute and mtaylor Like Loading Thanasis Posted January 14, Hi Derek. I had also bought one pack of those to find out that they might do what are promising only when the planks are in low thickness and with a gently tension of the screw.

Otherwise, as it happened for me, that small plate tends to distorting, pressing only the closer to screw side of the plank Now, I use those plates in a combination with board pins instead of screws , which because of the wider base, they prevent the plate to be deformed. As about the pre-drilling on the bulkheads, a smaller in diameter than the screw drilling, usually helps. Landlubber Mike Posted January 14, Canute , thibaultron , Seventynet and 1 other Like Loading Landlubber Mike , Canute , mtaylor and 1 other Like Loading Moxis Posted January 14,

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