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Simple Planking Clamp from Binder Clips | Ship Modeler

Hollow-hull construction is difficult and therefore avoided by many model ship builders. Real ships are built like that; so are ship models in world-famous museums.

After several years of experimenting, we finally discovered a method in to make good solid hull for small warships and Coast Guards. The proprietary method can be applied to some small hulls of commercial ships and motor boats.

No matter how hard we vuilding, the newfound method couldn't pass our high accuracy standard on larger hulls. The video shows the lengthy process of making the planks starting at Plank-on-frame hulls are much more time-consuming than solid hull carving but why the model ship experts use it?

Because it is a must for the foundation of a genuine model. In this video you can also see the very cool tools. Ancient Vessels. Tall Ships. Pirate Ships. Classic Boats. Classic Yachts. Modern Yachts. Ocean Liners. Model ship building plank clamps 2020 Ships. Civil War. Spanish War. Coast Guards.

Metal Models. Other models. Large Models. Small Models. Unique Gifts. Display cases. Repair Service. Plak Models. Remote Control. View Car t. About Us. Why Us. Contact Us. Work Opportunity. F eedback. To avoid the strenuous process of a plank-on-frame construction, many model ship makers model ship building plank clamps 2020 to carve ship hulls from wood log.

In this video, fast forward to for the section in which the instructor uses visual cues for planing.

A hull's unique curves cannot be accurately duplicated by visual estimates like .

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ComiXology Thousands of Digital Comics. DPReview Digital Photography. East Dane Designer Men's Fashion. Shopbop Designer Fashion Brands. Deals and Shenanigans. Relative to glue I use CA for the quick hold at the plank ends and carpenter's glue for the balance of the process. Don't worry at all about the small holes left by the nails - they will fill in automatically when the hull is sanded and painted or sealed.

Additionally, I use spring paper clips, cloths pins, and small carpenter's clamps that can be bought at Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. I shy away from modelling tools since most of it is Chinese junk and poorly conceived. However, the use of these clamps may be be practical given your circumstances.

I never use pins. I shape each plank with either water and my fingers or, for extreme bends, use steam. I let the plank dry off the model, then glue it on using either white or yellow glue. A few moments' finger pressure is all it takes.

Hummmmmmm - I wonder if I am just using a white glue thats taking just a little too long to grab? Anybody any recomendations that are available in UK - I have always just used evo stik standard wood glue and its been fine for strips. The description says it all. I use Nick's method. The pushpins into the frames with the plastic part holding the wood. PVA glue not the white stuff but the carpenter's works well.

I'm also finding if you apply the glue and wait a few minutes, it tacks up nicely. I probably don't need to pin the wood, but old habits die hard. Thanks again folks i popped across the road to a neigbour who is a "fullsize" wood worker and indeed he is using various Titebonds.

I probably wasnt clear enough on my first question - I have no problems at all with full length strips - elastic bands, wood strips clamped across, short lengths pinned close , lot of pegs, clamps etc etc. Oh and the most importanat for me - a good stem rabbet to hold the ends in place.

But its the ends of the shorter plank pieces which was giving me a bit of grief and it seems as if the glue "time" was the issue. I've found that you can get a very quick initial 'bite' out of regular Titebond wood glue if you use the proper technique. Pre-bending is a very good thing here if needed, very slight bends with thin planks are probably fine without it. The plank will bond like you used CA.

For some very tight bends at the ends and with very short planks I used water and heat. When I did need to do something additional to clamp a plank, I used collar pins, so that the pinning was from above on a larger shoulder, rather than using the edge of the pin, which as you noted can easily leave dents.

Whats the problem with using cyanoacrylic glue in place of wood glue? There are some very nice ones out there and with lots of options thin thick gap closing gel. If you are planning on painting the planking, then CA is certainly an option, but for a natural finish hull, not so much.

The general feeling is that CA doesn't last long. With time it turns brittle and loses adhesion. Wood glue has proven it's value in holding wood to wood much better than CA in the long run. This link? Recommended Posts. Oddball Posted January 19, Posted January 19, Link to post Share on other sites. Backer Posted January 19, Posted January 19, edited.

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