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How to Make Boats from Foam Board | Flite Test Aug 26, �� Building a paddleboard is simple in theory, but can be complicated in practice. These are the general steps, but plan to do some research on the .
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The glasser is the technician, the dude with the job you don't want. You can shape at leisure, but once you pour hardener into your resin the clock is ticking.

You want to work quickly but not frantically. Good luck! Before mixing my first pour of epoxy resin and hardener in a ratio , I watched a lot of instructional YouTube, so much so that I was undeniably procrastinating.

In the end, your first glass job is a baptism by liquid fire. I survived. My SUP survived. But it was a close thing, at times a bit harrowing. The weight thickness of the fiberglass and the number of layers to be applied are known in the trade as the glass schedule.

My schedule called for one layer of 6-ounce fiberglass for the bottom and two layers of 6-ounce on the deck, where you need the most protection. This requires darting to accommodate the curves. You laminate the bottom of the board first, and if you're smart you'll masking--tape the entire deck to protect it from splashes. To laminate the deck, you cut one layer of fiberglass to fit the easy cut and then a second layer that goes on top of the first and overlaps by 3 inches as with the bottom layer.

Gently smooth them out by hand, from the center to the tail, and from the center to the nose, until there are no wrinkles. Then pour and spread epoxy over the two deck layers. Having done the bottom the day before, I was already more competent with the little plastic spreader tool. I spread the epoxy with long strokes, listening for a zinging sound that means the glass is fully saturated.

Pull and bring the excess to the rails, and wrap the fiberglass underneath, catching drips in your mixing bucket, repouring excess epoxy where needed. At lamination's end, to my relief, I found I was somehow well within the parameters of the acceptable. The good news is, if all goes mostly well, there's nothing you can't fix. Lumps can be sanded. Thin spots retouched with a small batch of resin.

Ding repair, as I said. After the resin and fiberglass layers have dried completely, in 24 to 48 hours, both the bottom and the deck receive another epoxy layer, called the hot coat. This is also another opportunity to give the board a smooth, glossy finish. Finally, I installed the finishing touches: a leash cup to hold the leash, the fin box, and the fin on the bottom.

I glued a deck pad to the deck over where I'd be standing. My end result see page was surprisingly successful, admirably light, and nimble in the water. The SUP passed its flat-water test with flying colors, floating a pound test pilot. The surf test awaits. But hurricane season is here, and when the next named storm rumbles up the Atlantic Coast, that SUP will ride the swells.

I'm stoked. Building a paddleboard is simple in theory, but can be complicated in practice. These are the general steps, but plan to do some research on the shape you like and the tools you want to use before you get started. Trace half of a borrowed SUP or printed template onto roofing felt. You'll flip the felt when you transfer the shape onto the foam.

After drawing the shape on the foam, use a inch pull saw to cut around the outline. You may need to cut in from the sides to free up the saw. It should look like a curved spear point, with no rough edges.

Cut out three pieces of fiberglass cloth�two for the top and one for the bottom. You may have to fold it at the corners to keep everything smooth. Lay the fiberglass on the board, mix the epoxy, and pour the epoxy over the fiberglass. Some of our reasons might seem pretty obvious to you but we take it as a reminder of how easy it is to make something on your own instead of paying money for it.

We will divide it into stages for your own ease. Firstly, you have to make a template for your paddleboard. You can check various surfboard plans on the internet if you need help with the sizing, but in general, paddleboards are slightly wider than surfs being around inches.

Both are equally as long, so length can be taken from traditional surfs and it is around ft. At the tip, your paddleboard should be rounded and not pointy. If you have a friend with a board you can use it as a template � simply trace one of its sides onto your paper and then flip it over so that the shape comes out symmetrical.

Glue several sheets of your chosen material foam together. You can put wooden dowels in the midsection for added stability and strength. To spread the glue evenly, a great tool you can use is a plastic trowel. Use the weights to keep everything together until it dries out completely.

Use the previously made template to cut out the shape into the foam layers you glued together. As the title of this stage suggests, you need to cut away the excess foam. You can use any type of sharp tool. Firstly, do the rough cutting then start cutting near your template lines but this time with a smaller, more fine cutting tool.

Important: make an upward curve on your board in order for it to be enough buoyant when afloat. It is a tough material but if you opt for it you will need to finish it off with a layer of polyurethane in order to protect it from the water.

That might complicate your project a bit. On the other hand, fiberglass allows you to do various paint jobs on your board. Finishing off the board with fiberglass involves covering the paddleboard with a fiberglass cloth and then coating it using epoxy resin. The resin sets extremely fast so you will need to be quick.

If you want to add color, order a color pigment of your choice when getting your resin.

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