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Expensive vs. inexpensive motors | IntoFPV Forum Increased hearing safety: According to Boating Magazine, boat engine noise can reach over decibels (dB). This is a dangerous level of noise. Sounds over 85 dB can cause hearing loss after long or repeated exposure. The higher the dB, the less amount of time it takes for hearing damage to occur. Apr 07, �� Clamp-on ferrite-core filters can be effective in countering electrical interference. They are inexpensive ($2 to $6) and simple to install by clamping around the wires and cables of the equipment experiencing and causing noise. 4. Moving or relocating equipment often solves interference problems. You can reduce your boat�s engine noise by insulating the cowling. For this, you�ll need to purchase some closed-cell polyurethane with aluminum backing to properly protect the foam from heat, grease and fuel. The product I highly recommend using is the Uxcell insulation mat.
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A few cracks here and there will make the engine noise easily pass through them and make for a loud voyage. Not only that but every year the boat is running, the vibrations from the boat will get more prominent; and will result in loosening bolts throughout the ship.

After the bolts have loosened to a certain extent, you will begin to hear more and more rattles and squeaks. These noises will make your boat sound older every year. If you want to avoid your boat sounding old and loud, you will have to make sure the sound insulation material is kept in tip-top shape.

The sound insulation material in the engine bay will not only reduce noise but will lessen the vibrations coming from the engine. I see some individuals around the internet WRONGLY suggesting material that is not an appropriate certified marine grade product for use in the application you are intending. Fire and also water resistance are necessary.

Get the right stuff or hire your dealer to perform the job. Engine rooms can be noisy, hot with a potential for fire. There are different types of noises that a boat engine will make. You will need to carefully inspect the current sound dampening material to see if there is damage and what you need to fix it. Structural born noise is when the boat is physically vibrating and causing multiple squeaks and rattles due to loosening bolts and fastening.

It is the actual impact of an object on a building element, in this case, it would be a boat. In most cases structure born noises are the hardest to isolate versus airborne sound; because the sound waves are a result of both sides of a building material vibrating. The reason they are challenging to isolate is that there are usually multiple sources.

Luckily in the case of a boat, the structure-borne sound would typically come from the engine bay, and that makes it easier for us to mitigate. Airborne noise is the sound waves that are transmitted through the atmosphere. In this specific case, the airborne noise would come from the engine and other areas of the marine craft. You can reduce the amount of airborne noise by physically blocking the source of the noise with noise blocking material.

You will not be able to block the engine noise completely, but you can bring it back to what it sounded like when the watercraft was new, or at least close to new. Airborne and structural noise is almost always intertwined when the sound is loud enough. If the airborne noise is loud, it can cause a structure to vibrate causing structural noise and vise versa. While the majority of engines have a cover, it generally does little to minimize noise.

This engine cover, called the cowling, is mainly inefficient regarding noise reduction unless you supplement it with something far better. Consult your boat owners manual before removing the cowling. You definitely do not want to have engine trouble in the future because of this DIY soundproofing project.

You can either remove the old sound dampening material or place the new stuff on top. If you place the new material on top of the worn one, you could be doubling the noise reduction effect; but you could also be defeating the purpose of adding new material if the old one creates gaps that will let noise bleed through. One thing I need to point out is that this will not solve the noise problem for every situation.

There could be other factors as to why the engine noise is unbearable that simple boat engine cover insulation will not fix. Not all noise insulation are created equal.

You will need soundproofing insulation that is not only heat proof but waterproof also. This stuff is waterproof, moisture proof and heat resistant. This stuff works well in eliminating a broad spectrum of sound frequencies. The max loaded vinyl is very dense and also flexible and contains Barium Sulfate to increase its density. When installing the sound dampening material in the cowling make sure not to cover the air vents while covering as much surface as possible.

There will be some noise coming from the air vents, but this is unavoidable. Make sure the material does not come into contact with any moving parts, mainly if you are sticking it over the existing cowling insulation. I did see some people online suggest a placing a cowling cover, the covers you put over the cowling while traveling to avoid rock chips.

To insulate a boat engine properly. It produces vibrations and these vibrations resonate on the surrounding material. You know those foam panels with those eggshell crater design? Instead, you should get a sound deadening material that is typically used for car engines. These materials are dense and strong enough to block impact noise. They are also heat and liquid resistant. My friend used it to soundproof his pickup truck. The engine and the cabin and it made a huge difference for traffic noise and engine noise.

Plus the product information states that it can be used for marine soundproofing. All of these materials are similar and would probably work well.

Still, not a big deal by any means. Insulating the outboard motor is technically easier but the effects will not be as dramatic. The outboard engine is covered with cowling, usually made of fiberglass. This is a thin cover that does block some impact noise.

But if you can make it thicker by using dense material it will be even better. You can cover either the inside or the outside of the cowling. Covering the inside would be better because the engine noise would then hit this softer material first. But this would require removing the cowling with most engines and then placing the material and returning it back on. An easier way to do this is to simply install the FatMat on the outside. The downside of this method is somewhat reduced effectiveness and most of all it would look pretty ugly.

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You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Inexpensive Soundproofing? Thread starter Kauaiboy Start date Mar 26, Kauaiboy Petty Officer 2nd Class. Joined Mar 9, Messages Came upon a product by SilverRboard; it's an inch thick material, soppouse to be used for homes to add soundproofing. It's got reflective front for heat, moisture resistant also. Joined Jun 7, Messages 1, SilverBoard is an expanded foam and will do a good job of keeping heat from the engine from coming through.

I do not believe you would find it effective at reducing engine noise as it lacks mass to cut the low frequency noises from transmitting. In an underfloor construction setting it would stop some sound transmission by absorbing foot falls but there would be better products do put in a theatre room. The first key to eliminating sound from the engine compartment is to eliminate any direct line of sound transmission, like a small opening.

Next is to stop the sound transmission through absorbing the energy with mass or a varied mass structure that dampens several frequencies. The SilverBoard is not expensive if you want to try it, but I would not count on much change.

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