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How to Make a Simple DIY Canoe | Survival Sullivan Mar 18, �� Whether you�re trying to stay dry or even want added safety for learning, making a DIY canoe stabilizer is a worthwhile project that may be easier to do than you think. Types of Stabilizer. Although there are many stabilizers on the market, the basic principle works the same. An outrigger unit is attached to either one or both sides of the myboat319 boatplansted Reading Time: 9 mins. Jul 16, �� Kenya Outrigger Sailing Canoe: Here's a 12 foot long outrigger sailing canoe I built in Kenya this myboat319 boatplans has folding "beds" for two, a removable roof, and a sail. It's easy to myboat319 boatplans only tools needed were a machete, knife, drill, chisel, spokeshave, hammer, myboat319 boatplans Estimated Reading Time: 8 mins. The drop in outrigger can transform many unstable canoes, narrow dinghies and some kayaks into a stable platform for fishing or diving or convert your boat into a formidable sailing outrigger or trimaran sailing canoe.. Turn a Canoe or Kayak into a formidable sailing boat or a super stable fishing platform.
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The hull was almost finished before I realized it was going to be really nice and I should document it.

Here is the first picture I took. It's inside the bow looking forward. The signs of the previous steps are still visible. First I cut the sides of the plywood canoe and assembled them with butt blocks to make them 12 feet long from 8ft plywood. They are 18" high with slightly raked stems and 2" of rocker. I made my own measuring cups for the epoxy. I measured water into a plastic cup and marked it with the right levels for my ratio epoxy.

Then I copied those marks onto a lot of other identical cups to use them for measuring and mixing the epoxy. I used plastic shopping bag mittens as improvised rubber gloves to keep the epoxy off my skin. I thickened my epoxy with white flour to make it thick like pancake batter.

I spread it over the mating pieces with a cardboard squeegee, laid plastic over a scrap board, laid my plywood sandwich over that and nailed lots of nails through to clamp it all together.

I left the nail heads high so I could pull them out later. Then I laid that whole thing in the sun to get hot and cure the epoxy. When the epoxy was hard I pulled the nails out. While waiting for that to happen I made the stems. I ripped a cedar 2x4 lengthwise with a handsaw to make the two knife-edge stem pieces, then hewed the visible trailing edge to make it symmetrical. You can see the machete marks from hewing the stems. Then I mixed more epoxy glue and glued and nailed the sideboards to the stems.

Then I had a canoe with no bottom. I carried it into the sun to get hot and cure. By then I was too hot myself and needed a cure. I made a frozen banana smoothie with instant coffee in it.

Then I forced the sides of the canoe out into the shape I wanted by jamming transverse sticks in. I kept them from slipping by pounding nails through the canoe sides into the ends of the sticks.

I put most of the curvature in the ends of the boat to give it a high prismatic coefficient and high buoyancy for its length. I flared the sides out sideways in preparation for the final shaping step.

Thus I spread the top edge flared out wider than than the bottom edge. I used a I had to tie cords around the boat to hold some parts from springing out too much.

Then I nailed and glued the chine logs onto the bottom edge as seen here. I used a nail with the head cut off as a drillbit. When it got dull I pounded the tip with a hammer and filed it.

Then I planed the chine logs smoth with my spokeshave to be ready for the bottom. Then I glued and nailed the bottom on. Then I pulled the transverse sticks out of the hull and glued and nailed the gunwale strips on.

While doing that I squished and tied the sides in so they are vertical in the middle. That bulged all the panels in a really nice way so the canoe is really stiff and strong.

Note the Kerfs little crosscuts in the gunwale strip and chine log. That enables the strips to be bent to the necessary curve without breaking.

The kerfs have to be on the inside of the curve or the stick will break even worse. Note the plentiful nails. I used lots because I didn't have enough clamps. Plentiful dribbly glue squeeze-out is visible from the joints. My first few joints were too dry and not very good. After that I added less white flour to my epoxy and my joints got better. These are great. The ashtray looking thing in the bottom is the mast step. I carved the cup with a chisel and knife, glued and nailed the step in place.

There's another just like it in the stern to step the roof support post. All that just to make the pointy box with no lid seen here. I'm using some wrought iron chairs as sawhorses for my boatwork. Powell's dad Charles made them. They're very nice. Next I shaved the gunwales smooth. Then I glued and nailed the seat support strips 5" below the gunwales. You could also call them inwale stringers if you wanted to confuse people.

The seats are 6. They are thicker than necessary but that's what I had and I was too tired to plane them down. They're screwed to the stringers with brass screws and not glued. Please note the butt block below the seat. It covers the joint where the 8 ft. You can see a hard bend in the gunwale on the left side your left of this picture.

I broke it while bending, so the bend isn't graceful. At this point the shape of the canoe is finished. It's 18" wide and deep, 12 feet long. All the panels are nicely bulged so the canoe feels really solid. You can' t "oilcan" it anywhere. If I'd made it a foot Diy Kayak Canoe Outrigger 10 wider this would be a usable paddling canoe already. But I'm making an outrigger sailing canoe, so there are a whole lot of parts yet to make. Also called "breasthooks". Mast Sprit Sail sleeping deck paddles. I mixed up most of my remaining epoxy and squeegeed it into the bottom and other parts of the boat that I thought would get a lot of abuse.

I left a little epoxy for possible repairs. Then I bought a liter of linseed oil and soaked the rest of the boat with it. I put the boat in the sun to heat and soak in and cure as much as possible. It wasn't easy to find the linseed oil. It's used on the fancy carved swahili doors popular in the area. Then I bought a Diy Kayak Canoe Outrigger 90 quart of white oil-based paint.

It barely covered the canoe so I went back to Hussein Enterprises and bought a gallon. Nathan and I had a great time painting the hull and outriggers. We got kind of dopey on the fumes. Two coats just about used up the paint.

The boat looked fabulous. When it rained that night the droplets just beaded up on the paint like a duck's dream. Caroline, Nathan's girlfriend, got to name the boat. She chose "NinaDave" after the household's two female mutthound puppies. Here's Nina or Dave eating dogfood Kenya style. It's "dog sausage", sausages made just for dogs, mixed with rice. That's what dogs eat in Kenya, the lucky ones anyway.

Fortunately the end of the stempiece had plenty of wood left on it, so I carved a puppy head figurehead there. Having realized how much work remained, I hit the wall and started to despair. At that moment Sophie the maid's boys got out of school for a holiday. Powell, Adam, Alex and George, ranging in age from 9 on down volunteered. After I showed them what was needed they started chopping away in a really methodical and careful way. Mothers, young children NEED machetes.

And they're ready. They're amazingly good craftsmen for their age. The first time I got a machete to play with I chipped my tooth with it. That tooth is still chipped. These kids had apparently seen enough machete blood already and chopped carefully. Before long the boat had more parts. Here Powell and Alex shape crossbeams and "clothespins". The paddles were quick to make and turned out really well.

To see video of how to make them, check out the cozy boat instructable. The rudder is pretty simple, just some boards glued and nailed like this.

Then tied to the stern post of the canoe. It's strong and works really well. The tiller is just a longer stick tied to the top. That was the last thing before testing the canoe and didn't get much attention. Here's the foredeck. A rib under the middle of the deck makes it even stronger. The hole in the splash rail is the mast partner. The mast slides through there and rests in the mast step.

I positioned the mast step so the mast would rake back slightly. If I'd known I was going use a plain square spritsail I would have made the mast vertical. The rear deck also has a partner and corresponding mast step. It serves several functions. If the rudder breaks you can put a rudder post in here and steer with a quarter rudder lashed against that and the protruding end of the splash rail.

If you want a roof over your boat you put a stick in here to hold it up. Here are pictures of three types of folding roofs seen on boats in Lamu. Here's the folding bed deck system. These fold out to lay on the seat support stringer. They're very comfortable to lay on.

You could also lay them on the chine log and sleep just above the bottom of the boat. Add the top layer, and the other crew member gets to sleep also. Not palatial of course, but there's only so much space in a boat this size. As you can see, the bottom is bulged just a little.

That's because the sides were spread wide when the bottom was attached and then bent to vertical after the epoxy cured. This put just a little compounding in all the panels, making them very stiff. You can't "oilcan" this boat anywhere. If you've ever built a "tortured plywood" boat this will be familiar to you. This method isn't exactly torture, so let's call it "enhanced interrogated plywood".

Speaking of which, there's a big American military base north of here, with helicopters flying everywhere, lots of roadblocks and refugees. It seems the U. From what I heard it's just as stupid as our last one. Need to take the crossbeams off in a hurry? Grab the little sticks, break the cotton strings, and everything comes apart in an instant.

To attach the crossbeams, just poke the little sticks through the polypro cord loops, twist them tight, and slide the cotton strings over the ends of the sticks as shown.

This system works very well. We all called them "clothespins" for some reason. I think the Swahili name is "miringei". They go from the crossbeams to the outrigger floats. It's late afternoon and it seems to be the day for testing the boat. In the morning it's calm and the fishermen paddle down Kilifi creek in their dugouts to fish on the reef. They paddle back with their catch before the wind comes up in the afternoon. By the time we have the boat ready to test the big waves are here.

The waves are a lot bigger than these pictures make it look. We see our chance, run out with the canoe and start paddling. Nathan and I paddle through the top of a big wave just before it breaks, taking in some water. We keep paddling and get out to the swells. When we've paddled out past the breakers we hoist the sail. It's pretty small and there's not a lot of wind, but the boat sails all right.

I nearly capsize us while putting up the sail. Here is the same boat, but with one of my new 10 footers, which are very light compared to the older 7 footers. A very early working prototype using 4" PVC, sealed with foam. This day was very calm and any working wind could have easily tipped the boat over. So, there are differences in application, based on needs. If you want a stable fishing platform, then Diy Kayak Canoe Outrigger 05 you need to make the floats lie resting at the waterline.

That would be the classic trimaran configuration that I use. Three hulls, all touching the water at rest. Floats that are above the waterline are like training wheels: they keep you from going over, or at least they slow down the roll. The PVC would not be very effective at that, but if I mounted the pontoons in the first set of pics above the waterline, they would because they have enough displacement to prevent capsize, even in the roughest conditions.

So, shoot me a response if you want to talk this over. Thanks for the responses. I've watched a couple of hours worth of youtube videos on the subject and have some ideas to try out. I'll report on the results when I can. OutnBacker I've seen those single sided pontoons before. I see you have a motor on that side to balance the boat toward that pontoon. What happens if you put some weight on the side with no pontoon?

That ice chest outrigger rig looks pretty cool. Lots of storage space! And the little deck between the coolers would be a great place to stand up and fish from. They'll hold the beverages, but not much stability there. You use the cooler to sit on - inside the boat. Let's see if I can direct you to a YouTube of my trimaran Grumman 17 on a cross lake run to a hole I know. Also, another with my son while he Diy Canoe Stabilizer Quantum was goofing with that little 15 above I'm here to tell ya - I've seen 'em all.

Had at least a dozen boats in my life, from dinghies to 22ft sailboats, canoes galore - all types. Not one outrigger set I've ever seen - commercial or DIY, has better qualities of stability, ease of use, and on the water utility as mine. There are a few that are as good, but none better - especially for the price. At lbs, I can walk the length of my canoe, stand up, fight the fish, step out on the struts, and that G will not dip more than a couple inches - and it will do it slowly, gently, so you never have to over correct and flip the other way.

Most fall outs happen like that. I've tried the straps, lines, clamps, etc. They fail eventually. Nothing beats mechanical fasteners. I don't sell my stuff, but if I did, I would never sell a product that is strapped together. Bolts typically don't fail and are just as quick to use. You can place any platform you want on the boat and make a raised fishing deck, too.

I had a U shaped deck that was mounted to the struts and went back around the drivers position, like a sailing dinghy. It allowed me to either sit anywhere or stand out on the struts about a foot if I needed to get close to the pontoons when docking. It's a complete system and it can be reduced for any purpose. I've seen those single sided pontoons before. I am currently in the process of designing a clamp on outrigger. I am more interested in developing a shunting proa, but the whole concept is still valid for paddling.

Bad Little Falls Guide. Joined Jan 28, Messages 2, Likes 4, How about three canoes and a 9. Hobie toons are much too heavy to be practical for a canoe. The pontoons I built are rigid foam core e with fiberglass skins, multiple layers thick.

At 10ft, they only weigh 17lbs each. Playing around with this whole concept is fun and enlightening. It opens up a whole array of options for using a canoe. I began with pvc and quickly realized that was a dead end in anything approaching real performance. Fine for ponds and small waters, but near useless in choppy conditions or when sailing hard. Pvc has virtually no reserve bouancy once they dip under.

A taller profile is required to yield real stability. My floats are 12 inches tall and have never gone more than e inches deep, even when sailing in 20mph wind. I had to take down the sail for fear of the light mast being snapped, not because of capsize risk.

So, if one is intending to just fish quietly, putz around a bit, then pvc can work as long as the crew doesn't get too trusting. Last edited: Jan 21, A while back I posted a thread on how and why I built what I built, as well as showing the evolutions.

Right now I'm on my cell and I hate the tiny, cumbersome handling, so I'd encourage the curious to find the thread somewhere here in Paddling. Otherwise, ill post a link when I get off work, which is something I do that interrupts more important activities. I've been working on my outrigger ideas for a while and almost have something ready to take to the lake and try out.

I want to be able to stand up and move around in the boat when fishing, but I don't want the outriggers in the water except when I'm fishing.

I don't need them for rowing or paddling. In fact they will just get in the way or drag in the water. So I want to be able to flip them up out of the water or down in the water easily. Or not be installed at all if I know I'm not going to need them today. Easy on, easy off so my canoe doesn't have a bunch of stuff hanging all over it when I'm trying to load it on the truck or take it off.

I plan to be putting the prototype together this week, and trying it out at a lake nearby. Hopefully I'll have some good results and will post some pics. Or I may fail completely, and just give up on the whole thing and never talk about it again. We'll see pretty soon. You won't fail completely - only enough so that we can heckle. So, you want stabilizers - not outriggers.

Lots of possibilities there. You don't need a hydrodynamic shape or long struts either. Something compact and close to the hull will do.

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