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The Cost of Owning a Boat: Budgeting and Financial Planning - myboat069 boatplans Jun 27, �� Build this small boat trailer for summer. TO BUILD A SIMPLE trailer for a small light, runabout of 10ft to 13 ft long by about 5ft wide ( metres long by up to metres wide) this design is ideal. It is suitable for a dinghy, tinny, Parkercraft or even your children�s yacht. 48 rows�� For Pontoon Boat Trailers deduct 10 percent from listed myboat069 boatplans Galvanized Trailers . Dec 21, �� I have to be honest here and I think a lot of people might agree but unless you have a trailer to use as a donor (think boat trailer) and a cheap source for steel (I have a scrap yard in the same complex my shop is in I get stuff from at times at about 1/2 the cost of new) you will probably spend more to build it then buy one.
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Bernie Perano was the mentor. A law is only a single compulsory the revisit to if vicious caring trickery as I could not stop a draining from a kickback my ride took. which will suggest attention-grabbing, as the wordless sneak-up on-'em fishing motorboat. A reply is to tie a jack stands collectively in pairs. miles of forest as well as engulf .

Plus the many, nice compliments I get are priceless. George Redden � Staunton, VA. I kept no detailed records pertaining to money or time. I enjoyed building it and take great pride in it then and now. My Malahini elicits compliments everywhere it travels. One great advantage is the lighter weight over fiberglass. This fall it will be going fishing in Canada. Tow vehicle is a mid size SUV. Another advantage, the money outlay is spread out over time.

No work was done at night. The major costs in Aust. So you can see that the timber, epoxy, fibreglass, paint, chandlery, anchor, all safety gear and registration and insurance was less than half the total cost. By the way, when we turned the hull off of the form we weighed it.

It was kg lbs. Performance: Top speed with full fuel tanks, and carrying two adults and two children is 67 kph 42mph. I used marine fir plywood, glass tape, epoxy throughout, designed and built my own steering, and used all of your hardware. It took about 2 weeks to completely build it but time was spread over 4 months due to very little free time. The boat and engines are the same as I had when I grew up in the time period. The Glen-L plans were excellent and am planning to build another Glen-L design this winter.

I also just finished a Mercury Mark 6 restoration that will soon be tested on this boat. Bob Spiess � Griswold, CT. The work went fairly quickly until we turned the hull, and then at a crawl after that. Other events intervened between when I started the project and when I finished it, so it would be difficult for me to give much of an estimate of the total time it took.

Also, I struggled at times just trying to decipher the instructions. But it was a rewarding project, and people who see the boat are amazed that I built it myself. Nick Adams � Winnepeg, Manitoba, Canada.

Most of the work was completed in the final 11 months. We used wood from a traditional lumber yard quality stuff! We used Mahogany for combing boards, hatch boards, and some of the more visible cockpit boards. We never could afford any teak. The bulk of the boat was built of quality Douglas Fir as that was the cheapest wood that was recommended in the plans.

The motor is a NEW Mercury 2. It will have painted topsides but varnished decks. My guess as to time is more than hours at this point. Robert Carr, Brooklyn, NY. Built by Alan Close � I have bought new in most cases but taken my time to shop around before purchasing.

I have also tried to support Glen-L. Some scrounging is involved and I am doing everything, i. John Gondek � Parkersburg. For convenience, reliability and performance reasons I chose to purchase a brand new, factory built marine engine Indmar with a new transmission as well. Those who choose to scrounge a junk yard engine and rebuild it themselves can do so for FAR less than purchasing new. Another area of some notable expense is the trailer.

Again, I chose to go the top of the line route buying a brand new, all aluminum Average Cost Of Building A Boat Dock trailer. The third item of significant expense is the upholstery.

This includes every single nickel that went into the project. My bookkeeping philosophy was if I spent the money and it was related to building the boat, then I counted it. Every nail, screw, staple, piece of sandpaper, new blade for the table saw, etc. I hope this helps. Garry Stout � Odessa, FL. There is a digital compass, a digital depth-finder, and other fancy gold Custom Aluminum Boat Trailer Manufacturer In plated gauges Faria that were more expensive than may really be required.

I used a chromed rudder, strut and stuffing box. Sides and deck were stained, covered with 3 coats of epoxy then the 10 coats of 2-part poly, sanded and sanded and sanded and then the final spray coats. All hardware was stainless steel. Other items make up the rest. All these number are approximate. There would be lots of ways to cut costs and still have a very nice boat. Everything is either completed or already purchased. I scrounged heavily for everything. And of course lots of Glen-L epoxy.

The boat ran great�way better than I expected. John Wilmot � Edgewater, MD. The boat is one of the favorites of all the people I meet on the lake.

After it was done I added so many extras. July I used nice mahogany for trim work, inner and outer keel and side supports. All plywood was marine grade Okume to keep it light in weight. Built by Mike Hadfield � My first attempt at building one of your designs was the 12 foot skiff, stitch and glue method.

I used exterior grade ply rather than marine grade to keep costs down in case I messed up. It took about 3 weeks to complete, taking into account moving it in and out of the garage we have small garages over here , but in reality with enough space you could almost start it Friday night and have it in the water for Monday!

Mike Hadfield, Cornwall, UK. There was a bit of waste in bad paint, redone deck, etc. But the end result was worth the effort.

Also, please understand, this is a complete package that I just sold. Well here is the number�. Although the finished result is more of a work of art than a working pleasure boat, this may not be the best ad for your site. It might be an example of an extreme though. I have built many, many projects in my career, but the thing I can say about this, is it has been a joy to build from start, to finish. I have never had the feeling it was a drudge or a tough thing to do.

And to add to that, I never expected to ever ride in it� If I do get even one quick ride, that will be a few moments of ecstasy. Built by Mark Bronkalla � My cost numbers are a bit dated as they are from when I built my Riviera. I did a fair amount of scrounging and searching to hold to that price. There were also a few things I bought at the time and never used that are not included in the budget. At one point I had a bag with all of the receipts in it, but I was not as careful about putting everything in there that I could have.

I have a budget page with some of the numbers filled in at: Not complete, but it does give folks an idea of some of the major cost items and quantities e. Mark Bronkalla � Waukesha, WI, www. I want to make Model Boat Building Kits Uk Ranking use of this opportunity in commenting you on your website, it is a great resource and contained a wealth of knowledge.

I am already dreaming about my next project and would this initiative of providing an estimate of total cost of different boat designs be just what I need to compel me into some action. Regards, Francois Theron � Stitch And Glue Boat Building Techniques Canada Australia. Built by JR Holder � I used your kits for the epoxy and other stitch and glue materials. I purchased Honduran Mohogany for the lumber and British marine plywood. The outside of the boat was painted with green gelcoat and the mahogany was finished with Sea Fin Teak oil. These costs are slightly higher than most because they are delivered to Fairbanks AK.

J R Holder. The boat sails great under sail and 5HP motor did not try rowing yet. When using the mast, make sure you properly secure the base of the mast to your bow knee with a stop washer. This was a nice experience for me and I feel confident in building my next boat!

Last year the Saboteer, approximate cost using the best materials, epoxy etc. Building the Saboteer over the jig was the most gratifying. The boat really handles well, I just got off the river an hour ago and had more than a couple people come up and ask me about the boat including the sheriff who was out on safety patrol.

All said it looked like a wonderful design. Built by John Crill � From you I bought the plans and the hardware kit for the sliding seat. I bought marine ply from a supplier in England I live in France but the marine ply is cheaper and better, no voids, in England and also the epoxy.

All the mahogany came from a local staircase manufacturer who sells a tightly paced skip of imperfect wood 10feet by 4 feet by 3 feet for about dollars or about 1. A real bargain. All of the wood is hardwood, some is slightly warped but most of it is only imperfect for making staircases � fine for cutting into narrow strips for boatbuilding and laminating. I bought the sculls at a car boot sale garage sale for 30 dollars.

For much of the build I used polyurethane glue as it is pretty tough and simpler to use than epoxy, but everything is epoxy coated and the boat also has a layer of fine glass roving. I modified the deck design by lengthening it both ends and glassing in a bulkhead to make waterproof caissons. Best regards, John Crill, France. Working on the Riviera now and keeping track of expenses. SystemThree epoxy and fiberglass sheathing. Engine is a 15 hp Mercury bigfoot with power tilt and electric start.

I painted the boat with several coats of Polyurethane floor and porch enamel. Also installed a fishfinder with speedometer and temperature. The actual build time would have been longer for most people as I am a retired carpenter and have a large shop full of good tools. This also is the 5th boat I have built. Clark Johnson � Laurel, MT. My Dad has passed away and since I am now retired, I decided to attempt to build the same boat, on my own.

I struggled from time to time but I finally finished the project. The boat turned out pretty nice and it performs very much like the original. Mike Aronson � Holland, MI. The boat is all epoxy encapsulated mahogany and Marine Mahogany Ply. BTW I never could have done this without all the info available on your site. Clamp it and tackweld the frame. I put the frame on the bench to tack weld the slippers and springs on. Put the frame back onto the main bar and prepare the axle. I found it was mm.

I added 20mm each side for the clearance to the wheel. The total was mm, so I cut the steel for the axle at that length. Get the centre at mm half of Use this to measure back for the holes drilled in the RHS for the locator pins, which are in the centre of the springs. The distance between these locator pins is mm.

Half is mm, so the locator holes in the axle will be drilled in the axle at mm out from the centre at mm. Measure mm and check the chalk marks against the spring locator studs. Fortunately, the holes I drilled in the wrong place in the axle could be used for the weld which is melted into the stub axle.

Drill 16mm holes in axle at the spot markedfor the spring locators. I used the holes I drilled incorrectly first, to fill with weld to hold the stub axle. Otherwise I would have filled those holes in. The axle is being put under the springs this time rather than on top as with the previous trailer. When the weight goes on and the axle moves up with the springs, it would hit the towbar.

Assemble the wheel and hubs temporarily according to the kit instructions, and check that the clearance between edge of the frame and tyre is correct�20mm.

Also, check that the mudguard is in the correct place by holding it over the wheel at this point. Now I weld the stub axle into the RHS axle. Push the stub axle in and hold it square. Weld the plug in the axle hole to hold the stub axle in. Because I have taken one leaf off the spring, the bolt through the leaves is now too long. I cut off the extra thread on the top of the spring with a cutting wheel. This allows the axle to sit down properly on the spring locator.

I place the axle on the spring locator studs under the springs and bolt it in place to the plate above the spring with 40mm U-bolts. Put the wheel back on temporarily to position the mudguards. I place a block of wood with a 70mm clearance above the tyres to get the height of mudguard I want. That looks better than 50mm clearance which would also be possible. Simply weld the mudguard directly to the side rail of the frame.

Put the solid-rubber keel rollers along the main bar about a metre apart, with the fi rst roller welded to the very back of the drawbar. The trolley frame can move and should be towards the back. The weight of the boat is toward the back with something like an outboard motor. The distance that the frame can be adjusted is the distance between the rollers. With the boat overhang at the back by about mm or mm, the bow would probably reach over the third roller, and three should be enough.

The chine rollers bolted to the back angle-iron cross-member of the frame help with pulling the boat on and off the trailer. A drawbar skid welded to the bottom of the drawbar at the front stops the coupling plate digging into the ground when the trailer is empty and dropped forward. From your own boat, measure the height of the eyelet on the bow post. You need to position the hook on the winch wire at about this height so you will have a reasonably straight pull when winching the boat on to the trailer.

The winch post is made of 35x35mm RHS welded to a plate which is U-bolted to the drawbar. Also you would be hard pressed to build or buy a single axle without spending a fortune. Probably be cheaper to do twin axle. Look at used ones. You can probably find something close to what you're looking for and just modified to suit your needs and still save a little money. Last edited by Lostone ; , AM. Comment Post Cancel. Thank you Lostone, I think that helped me. I figured it'd be cheaper, I just wasn't for sure.

I have built several trailers, mostly small ones, and its would've been cheaper to just buy a used one. Even one that has to be repaired a little bit. If you have the skill and can scrounge up the materials, that would be the route I'd take. If its not something you need immediately, just be patient and keep your eyes open, something will pop up soon enough.

Great advice from Lostone. I've built a few trailers, including a heavy-duty single-axle trailer. While great for the experience, I also had the sprung axle already available. I sure didn't save any money. And we're not even mentioning fabrication time and the extra paperwork for registration. I've built a couple of trailers and I agree with the others, it's cheaper to buy than to build. Some steel yards where I live in Phoenix have scrap steel as well as new.

Sometimes you can get a good deal on scrap, but they don't always have what you're looking for. I'm planning on building a trailer for my Bobcat skid steer, but I already have all the running gear from another trailer.

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