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Metal Boat Kits | Premium CNC boat kits in Aluminum Alloy and Steel

Note: These are very basic plans consisting of drawings with alujinium and a photo series showing construction steps but no other building manual is included. My brother designed this Aluminium bass boat plans 400 using ideas from the many boats being used.

We have drawn up the steel construction details hull, deck, sterngear and rudder details only for this 32' plahs boat based on a tug design with a fantail aft end and narrow boat lines amidships running into a tug type bow.

She may be fitted out in a Similar to the 55 footer bss, we have details for the construction of a 35' steel motor yacht hull. The plans include the steel work drawings for the hull and engine beads and the computer generated hull panel shapes. She has a beam of 11'6" 3. The Bullfinch is a typical standard steel narrow boat with a cruiser stern for home construction. The drawings and details are for the hull, deck and superstructure steel work.

Engine bed and rudder details are also shown. A study plan showing a We have often been asked for a wood version of a steel narrowboat and lpans it is. Narrowboats were of course made from timber in the first part of the last century boqt then, they used heavy boards of Elm and Oak. This version uses several layers This is a steel multi-chine motor barge for use in the waters of the UK and Europe, crossing the Channel and exploring the rivers and canals of the European mainland.

She has a section of parallel middle-body which means that she can be stretched. These plans are for the steelwork only of a We can also send details for the rudder engine beds etc for the 45' version as guidance for Visit the Wavedancer website Principal dimensions: L. Sloop rigged for easy handling. Draft aluminium bass boat plans 400 8". Plans include 4 sheets and suggested bill of materials. Displacement aluminium bass boat plans 400, Ibs The Ruby 19 is based on our Ruby 22 double chine plywood steam launch.

In the case of the Ruby 19 a client wanted a shorter version of the 22 to be built in steel which meant widening and deepening her to take the steel weight.

Having produced the The hull plana is 3mm over 4x75mm frames Includes lines, arrangements, outboard profile, construction drawings, table of offsets, scantlings.

Hot off the drawing board is this saucy little steel Toggle menu. Login or Sign Up. Shop Shop. Cleats View All. Plsns Paddleboat Hardware Footbraces, Aluminiumm. Paddles, Leashes, Clips. View All. All Sailmaking Supplies Hardware Misc. All Fiberglass, Carbon Fiber. All Fiberglass, Carbon Fiber, Etc. Fasteners Composite Fasteners Aluminium bass boat plans 400 Misc. Potter15 Potter Books Magazines Paul Fisher instruction manuals.

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Shop by Brand RaidBraid. Boat Gear Anchors, Rodes, Aluminkum. Add to Cart. Choose Options. Ruby 19 Plans The Ruby 19 is based on our Ruby 22 double chine plywood steam launch. Compare Selected.

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The Voyageur is ready for you to explore and discover, all while making the bigger boats jealous. Historically setting the standard.

With all the right features, the Classic provides just the experience you want. On top of easy towing and fantastic performance, the foot outfit is equipped with tons of storage and amenities. Perfect for family getaways or going solo, the Classic consistently sets a high bar.

Its streamlined design, top-of-the-class features and effortless maneuverability allow you to do exactly what you think it would: escape. This series' easy-to-tow size lets you get on the water in a hurry without sacrificing the amenities you love. Standard features like extra-large side rod holders, a huge lighted livewell and downright impressive storage space keep this light package in line with the heavy weights.

These Alumacraft All Welds are the perfect all purpose boat and when it comes to a goose hunting boat or a duck hunting boat, the name Waterfowler Series speaks for itself as the ultimate waterfowl boat. Built to last and at the head of the class with an industry leading aluminum boat design. Weighing a mere and pounds, these all purpose utility boats are easy to move and even easier to get launched. From fishing to duck and goose hunting, the Alumacraft V-Series is a must have addition to your lake shore.

Put the competition on watch. With 18' and 20' options, the Bay series gives you enough space to do whatever it is that you do best. Designed to execute in and around intercoastal waters, these boats offer a smooth ride and easy handling. In case that's not enough, a shallow draft gives your experience limitless possibilities. Beyond versatile. The Pro series allows you to go anywhere you want in a fast and proficient ride. Exceptional storage space, rod lockers and one roomy livewell let you haul all you could need and more in an excessively impressive boat.

Suitable for professional and personal needs, the Pro Series effortlessly executes above the rest of its class. Bass beware. This easy-to-navigate midsize machine is ideal for bass fishing adventures. Loaded with tons of space for storage, big bow and stern fishing platforms, a large livewell, and a modified V hull, this boat offers a lot in a decidedly light package.

Suitable for the pros, but built for you, prowl the waters for your next big catch. Designed for your ease of mind. Alumacraft's superlight, easy to haul and comfortable design makes your boating experience completely hassle-free. Ready for anything, the Crappie is perfect for lakes, creeks, rivers or streams.

In a Crappie, simplicity maximizes the experience. Welcome to the outdoors. The CC gives you complete control and tons of space without any hassle. Tough and simple, this center console boat is built to handle any job that comes its way.

The SC is built to serve and delivers an exceptional experience on the water. No-nonsense value is what you get with the Tiller. This sturdy, all welded build is an outstanding utility boat. Cash in on this streamlined center console. Equipped with all you need to succeed, the CC Tunnel is ready to take on the water with exceptional space, storage and design.

Take command of the water in the SC Tunnel. All welded construction provides added toughness and a smooth ride for just you or the entire crew. Built for work. Ready for play. Exceptionally tough and rugged, these boats can handle any job you throw their way. Don't let their serious build deceive you, though, these rigs are always ready to play.

With options ranging from 15 to 20 feet, Alumacraft All Welds are all purpose tools for anyone. Looking for an ultra tough aluminum jon boat that can handle any job on the water? Maneuverable and easy to transport, the Alumacraft jon boat has it all for both work and play. Alumacraft Boat Search. Trophy Trophy The largest build of our signature Trophy boats provides you with a level of power that goes beyond the competition's capabilities.

Trophy The Trophy delivers an experience you'll notice the moment you step on board. Trophy A professional level performance in a perfect size. Tournament Pro Tournament Pro The Tournament Pro is a professional level 19' vessel designed for serious anglers. Tournament Pro The Tournament Pro is a professional level 18' vessel that offers big performance in a slightly smaller build.

Edge Sport. Edge Sport The Edge Sport provides the ultimate on water experience by flawlessly combining fishing and fun with room enough for the whole family. Edge Sport All the fun in a smaller package, the Edge Sport comfortably fits seven passengers and effortlessly provides a great on water experience. Competitor Shadow Sport. Competitor Shadow Sport Big. Competitor CS. Competitor CS Big.

Competitor Shadow CS. Competitor Shadow CS Big. Competitor Shadow Tiller. Competitor Shadow Tiller Big. Competitor Tiller. Competitor Tiller Big. Competitor Shadow Sport From large lakes to your local favorite fishing spot, the Shadow series is sure to be the talk at the local bait shop. Competitor Shadow Sport A sleek and fearless warrior on the water, the Competitor Shadow models mix confidence and efficiency in the best way.

Converting from steel to aluminum is fairly straight-forward mainly because the members used are much the same in configuration and the methods of design and construction are similar. And while there are standards-making organizations e. Consider plating thickness.

On the steel boat, this is more often based on the practical minimum necessary to ward off corrosion over time, provide decent welds, and a thickness adequate to minimize unsightly deformation.

Thus 10GA. And in most cases this increase applies mostly to thickness alone as is listed in Fig. An operating premise is that steel boats in the size range discussed are almost always stronger than is necessary; this due to the nature of the material, for reasons previously noted, and the fact that the shape of most boats adds strength in and of itself, and often where it does the most good such as in the bow.

So using the example, 10GA. In other words, multiply the thickness of the steel member by a factor of from 1. Tip: Start with 1. The point is, many alternatives can be used to build an aluminum boat with largely the same results in terms of strength, durability, etc. In the above and referring to Fig. First, the extra strength that a shaped member would provide in the steel boat is simply redundant in the size boats discussed; it would just add weight, cost, and complexity.

Second, shaped members add to the difficulties of inspection, maintenance, and corrosion protection in the steel boat; for example, the ability to see and coat the underside flanges is difficult, especially when such members are small. However, in the aluminum boat in Fig. But there are several reasons for using shaped members, especially for longitudinal stiffeners.

First, such members are stronger. Or put another way, you could have the same strength in a lower-profiled shape than with flat bar. And the added strength in the aluminum boat is a plus. Another benefit might be more usable interior volume. They tend not to be so floppy, and bend more uniformly than flat bar.

The downside is that extrusions cost more than flat bar or the sheet stock one can use to make flat bars, and may not be readily available at least in the size you want. If working from stock plans for an aluminum boat, the designer probably specified certain sizes, types, and alloys of members for framing, etc. But deviations may be possible. Most designs have some latitude in alternates that can be substituted.

Channels can be made from split square or rectangular tubing, or even split pipe if somewhat larger than the specified channel. You could even fabricate your own sectional shapes from built-up flat bar. Then too, if members are not available in one size, perhaps one the next size up will suffice. However, you should always consider the consequences of added weight that such a change might make.

Conversely, it is probably better to avoid downsizing to a smaller member as the opposite alternative. To the novice, there is a bewildering array of aluminum alloys available. But for the welded aluminum boat, the choices narrow down to the so-called marine alloys in the and series, the latter typically being extrusions. Yet even within these series there are still many alternatives. But the most common, readily available, and suitable for welded boat hulls include: H32 H34 H H32 H H However, the designer may have already taken this into consideration if is specified.

Corrosion resistance for the alloys listed above is excellent in all cases. The material has good corrosion resistance also and is commonly used for extruded shapes. Early aluminum boats were often made with closely-spaced transverse frames with few, if any, longitudinals, a carry-over from traditional wood boatbuilding no doubt.

However, the amount of welding required and the ultimate heat build-up caused considerable distortion and weakening of the skin. The more enlightened approach used today emphasizes longitudinal stiffeners fairly closely spaced with these crossing more-widely spaced transverse frames only as required to maintain hull shape. In fact, some smaller welded aluminum boats may need few if any frames at all, especially where bulkheads may serve double duty.

The preferable approach is for transverse frames not to make contact with the shell Aluminium Bass Boat Plans 80s plating other than perhaps at limited areas along the chine or keel. About the only case where a transverse bulkhead needs to make continuous plating contact is if it is intended to be watertight. Even then, such a practice tends to distort the plating and is often readily visible on the outside of the boat.

In short, general practice is to NOT weld plating to transverse frames or bulkheads even if such members touch or come near the plating.

The chine is the junction between the bottom and side on a v-bottom or flat bottom boat. On high-speed planing boats, this corner should be as crisp are possible, especially in the aft half of the hull. The reason is that water should break free from the hull to reduce frictional drag at speed, and not climb up the topsides.

As shown before, Fig. Otherwise, a backing member is largely optional. If a special extrusion as discussed before is available, these are acceptable.

Side and bottom plating fit into the slots which are then welded continuously. From an appearance standpoint, a continuous inside weld looks best. However, such extrusions are often proprietary items or otherwise prohibitive in cost, and a problem to buy and ship in small quantities. Completing the ends of such extrusions where they join to transom and stem areas is also not always easy for the builder making a single boat.

However, if the protruding flange is too pronounced, there may be a tendency to hang up on rocks in certain boats such as whitewater boats, or snag debris and catch pilings in other types of boats depending on their use. Otherwise, round bar bends around frames easily and gives a well-defined boundary to work to when fitting side and bottom plates. A temporary chine backing member may help in this regard. In this case the bottom is fitted first and cut with care along the chine line a temporary backing member may aid in fitting.

Then topsides are installed, letting the edge overhang the junction a distance as required to form the spray deflector flat. While a good design, this configuration also takes care to assure fair lines. As mentioned, on the modern aluminum hull, most plating is reinforced by longitudinals. While a good set of plans will specify what to use for these members, this does not necessarily rule out another alternative if what is specified is not available.

These are available in many sizes, often in the form of extrusions with radiused edges that facilitate welding, or you can cut your own from plate.

Other stiffeners are often extruded shapes that can get costly and may not be as readily available in the sizes needed. When installing longitudinals, bending can present problems depending on curvature and member type. One approach some builders take to reduce bending effort is to gore members along their flanges as in Fig. This idea is sound, but the execution takes care to assure fair curves. Good practice also calls for radiusing the corners at the gores slightly to minimize hard spots against the plating.

Avoid over-welding, and completely around the ends of each cut. This allows a strong fillet weld on both sides of the junction the inside weld can be intermittent. A simple corner junction here as in Fig. In fact, some builders extend the bottom plating considerably past the transom on faster planing hulls to form integral non-adjustable trim tabs. These can later be bent down slightly if required for best performance and then bracketed to the transom once an optimum position has been found.

Transom thickness technically need be no more than that of the side or bottom plating. Additional thickness may be required � at least in the area of the cut-out � either through the use of doublers or thick inserts. A thicker insert is preferable at a cutout to avoid the need to seal joints between doublers by welding. Where thin plating meets thicker plating, bevel the thicker edge at a slope equal to at least three times the thickness of the thinner plate see Fig.

The insert should have rounded corners rather than being a hard square or rectangular shape. There is an on-going debate as to whether welded aluminum boats should be made as light as possible via light plating and framing but with more of it , or with heavier plating using minimal but also somewhat huskier framing members. A boat built with light plating and framing is lighter in weight for more-economical operation, has a higher speed for a given power, is more-easily trailered, has greater payload, and because it has less material, will cost less.

First, there is a natural tendency among builders in any material to over-build and second-guess the designer, even when a boat uses the heavier plating approach initially. The typical idea is that if so much is good, then a little more must be better.

The result is that such boats weigh more than the designer predicted. You guessed it � NOT the builder. Much depends on the boat and its expected service. For pleasure boats, I tend to favor lighter scantlings, but for more rigorous duty, heavier construction may be justified. However, rather than simply increase plating thickness, you might get similar results by adding a few more internal stiffening members instead. An appealing possibility on metal boats is tanks integral with the hull, which is acceptable for diesel fuel but not gasoline.

Because the hull shell plating provides one or more of the tank sides, and internal tank members can double as hull stiffening members, such tanks can save material and add capacity without taking up more room.

First, tanks might be of such a size or located in such a position that welding tight seams all around the perimeter is difficult if not impractical.

Second, because full welds are required, there is a greater chance of heat buildup and ultimate hull plating distortion. Finally, special consideration must be given at the intersections of tank ends, hull stiffening members, and internal tank baffles when required. Attempting to fit and weld tank ends tightly around stiffeners that pass through the tank is tedious if not impossible.

Instead, hull stiffeners should stop at tank ends, with similar members cut and fitted inside, or with internal baffles installed in line with such stiffeners as substitutes and to maintain continuity.

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